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Everything posted by jdripley

  1. Why not a Christmas themed scenario? Fluff: Santa Claus was riding to and fro across the skies of Adon distributing gifts to all of the good little children when the magic powering his sleigh gave out! The poor saint plummeted to the earth. A timely Teleportation spell saved him, but his sleigh could not be saved. It crashed to the earth in a loud crunch, scattering the remaining gifts over the landscape. Nearby fighting companies could not resist the temptation - very few members of fighting companies are "good little boys and girls" and this may be their only shot at a gift "from Santa!" Objective: Score more points than your opponent within 5 rounds Players: 2 Scoring: Points killed = points earned. Gifts claimed = 15 points. Gifts held at the end of the game = 30 points. Setup: Arrange terrain to suit both players. Scatter 10 tokens (use pipe cleaners looped into the size of dimes) across the map so that both players have fair access to equal amounts. Special Rules: The 10 tokens represent Santa's gifts. A model that is in b2b with a token may perform a Free Action to pick it up (claim it). Roll on the table below to determine what the gift is. The gift may be taken by any member of the same troop as a free action (this does not count as claiming it) or transfered to any allied unit as a free action (likewise - this is not claiming it). A model with a gift that dies drops the gift. It may be claimed by any model. Posessing a gift at the end of the fifth round counts as "holding a gift at the end of the game." Faction specific equipment claimed as a gift may be used by members of any faction. Any model may use a gift, even if it normally cannot use equipment of that kind. GIFT TABLE 1 - Luckstone (recharges when claimed if used previously 2 - Magical Weapon 3 - Magical Ranged Weapon 4 - Fire Keg (reven) 5 - Wand of Bolt (CP6) 6 - Fairy Musician (stacks with purchased musician equipment) 7 - Armor of Courage 8 - Holy Weapon 9 - Mithril Weapon (kragmarr) 10 - Sword of Venom ------------------- Not sure why Santa has (had?) such a deadly payload, but toy trucks aren't worth fighting over on the tabletop!!
  2. Here are some of the Dwarves of Aizen Krahl. I've selected some leaders and elites. The Warlords The Captains The Elites The Rogues
  3. Good call on the wash. I gave her skin a wash during the painting process but it came out horribly so I painted over it all. Guess I was a little gun-shy after that. Here are new pictures. No new paint but I have a different background. Maybe it's just me but it seems to show the colors a little better. What do you think? Too dark? I'm still fiddling with camera settings and lightbox issues. Not that my painting is amazing and the camera setup is ruining it - but hey, someday I'd like to think that I'll be at the level that the camera setup is going to matter, and I may as well fiddle with that now, right? I'll give her skin a wash and will post a new picture.
  4. Picked this mini up a while back based on pure coolness factor. I was attracted to the 54mm version, but realistically speaking I know I cannot do a mini of that caliber any justice whatsoever. So I stuck to the 28mm version! She languished on the back corner of my desk for many months wearing nothing but primer and plain maroon armor, but recently I've put more work into her. Here she is:
  5. You could package it with a limited edition mini or something?
  6. I have lurked this forum for quite a while, mostly trying to keep my jaw attached at the amazing work you all do. I paint mostly for the tabletop, here and there trying to do a better job than "basecoat, wash, detail, done." I was inspired to put together a cheapo lightbox the other day and start posting my paint jobs because I think the pressure to have my work be looked at and criticized is what I need to step it up to the next level. So here I go with Sokar's Avatar. One of my favorite models. Probably not my best paint job, but it's one I like at any rate! I've go several shots of him here. Hope you enjoy! The colors are slightly yellowed - I've got a fluorescent bulb in there. I'll be upgrading to one of those daylight bulbs shortly. C&C welcomed of course.
  7. I see that your photo-foo is greater than mine! I think my camera can adjust most of those things, so I'll look into that. I have redesigned the cylinder so that the whole lamp fits within the circumference, but I also have loads of cardboard and easy access to the materials to do it right, so I should probably just go ahead and scrap my lame design and do it right if I'm going to bother doing it at all. Thank you all for the advice! I hope to have something worthy of a miniature soon. EDIT:: Messed with the aperture setting and applied your statement about light "falling off" - I made sure the lamp was very close to the mini. The following three pictures are using the same energy saver bulb, and all I did was adjust the aperture and make the light closer - everything else is the same as the last photos I posted. So now a SUPER thanks for all of the advice! Nearly there and I only made 2 fixes!
  8. The lamp itself is capable of holding 60 watt bulbs. The bulb in there is one of those energy saver ones, it's 11 watt. Not sure how many lumens... but here's the text written on the side: 11W 120V 60Hz 180mA 3000K CFL11EL/MINITWIST Either way I plan on upgrading the bulb - is a 60 watt bulb bright enough? For starters I will make the cylinder larger in diameter and see how that goes, thanks for the tip!
  9. "... so that is like a ranged attack." Hahaha!! Made my day
  10. Thread-nomancy go! I just scratch built a first attempt at a lightbox. Results were unimpressive. I used white cardstock (flat sheet for a bottom, cylinder for the vertical aspect, with a 2x2 inch opening at the bottom for the camera, open on top for a desk lamp to shine into the cylinder). I have a flourescent bulb in there which I understand is not right, but my problem wasn't one of color balance (well yes, it was.. but I have a bigger problem), it was that the photo was extremely dark. Here are several pictures of a mini I was shooting to try it out and of the setup. I've got flourescent lights throughout the house, so with the intense light in the lightbox it appears I'm shooting in a dark room, but it's the middle of the day here. What am I doing wrong?? Obviously the size is different than the tutorial... somehow I doubt that's the problem. That leaves the lightbulb and the materials. If it's the lightbulb that's easy enough to fix, but do I need to scrap the whole design and go get the cloth and all of that?
  11. Ok, here are some pictures! Overall, I'm very pleased with how this all went. I eyeballed alot of things, and maybe next time I will be more precise in my initial measuring. Lately all I've been doing are hill and more organic sorts of things, which have a much gentler fudge factor than any sort of construction does. This makes me itch to get some games in! Here are a few general pictures: And here's the band, back together after many years: Hurk the half orc, team rogue; Kensington Overdeeps, team wizard; Arlington Crowe, team fighter; and Maximus Mortius, team generalist. Here's Kensington Overdeeps getting ready to rain the pain on the opposition: Hope you enjoyed this process as much as I did! If I make another arena I'll be sure to post up a WIP for it.
  12. It's definitely a sweet looking army. Loads of theme and loads of visual appeal. Numerically, 22 models is right there at the sweet spot. My only criticism for this army is that it's a one trick pony. It will certainly give many players fits, BUT a well-prepared opponent who has plenty of options built into his army will likely have some counters. Swift Attack and Flier ensures that they'll need to put on a good game though, so as far as one trick ponies go, it is a heck of a trick! I think that a player with a mage with an AOE attack, at least a handful of archers, and a solid core of high DV models would give this list a run for its money. Also, watch out for the super solos - they can still rip apart your swift attackers. They have high enough DV that your first strikes are not guaranteed to put a big dent in them, and if you attack with multiple Gaan Hor, they'll split their defensive strikes up amongst all of them and make you pay for the strafing run.
  13. How about this list? Necropolis - 500 points Troop 1 Railor of the Unbodied Sir Dauron, Death Knight Skeletal Warrior x 8 Skeletal Archer Troop 2 Sir Athak, Crimson Knight Skeletal Archer x 2 Zombie x 4 Troop 3 Kaena, Banshee Aa swarm of undead is the archtype for an undead army. Why not scratch the itch? This list has 19 models! That's just disgusting! Dauron is your champion, he can mow down whatever he fights. Skeletons are just fun to chop apart no matter who you are. And Zombies are truck loads of fun. Lots of models to paint, though, don't know if that's a problem given your deadline and all of that. But skeletons are easy... White or tan basecoat, metallic on the gear, hit the lot of it with a brown wash, and call it a day.
  14. Pretty sweet! I like it a lot. Eredain is a great caster to learn on. Ice Tome and the Merc Open spells are super solid, and he's a mid-power hybrid caster so a new player doesn't need to get overwhelmed with three tomes, 15 spell points, and the need to get 100 points worth of mage out of the guy. Earth Tome is a bit trickier and situational than Ice Tome, so there's some room for a more advanced player to work some angles. I really find this style of demo army appealing. Previously I've demoed with 200 or 300 point armies, but this has confirmed in my mind that I like 500 points. Makes me wonder what mission Sigurd and Haranobu are on, and how they procured the services of two warrior Minotaurs! Are they collecting a debt from some wealthy Merchant in Port Gangrel? Sigurd and his warriors knock on the man's front door, with the crossbowmen and Eredain forming a semi circle behind them. Citizens on the street catch on to the situation and begin scattering as discreetly as possible, throwing cautious looks over their shoulders. Haranobu leads his Ronin around the back, giving stern hand signals to the Minotaurs who can barely withhold their lust for battle. Shad, the real brains behind the operation, is already slipping through the second story windows to secure the collateral, no matter what goes down on the streets below...
  15. Well... Now I'm done, but the camera is not at home, so... Pictures shortly! The only disappointing thing about how it came out, for me, is this: when I initially applied glue to the floor of the arena I missed some spots - so the first application of sand, of course, had some empty regions. I went back and placed glue in those voids and re-sanded, but for whatever reason those areas now appear a little too dark in relation to the rest of the floor. I'm considering applying a brown wash to the entire floor in an attempt to conceal that problem..
  16. Think of it this way: the text of the rule says that spells "cast" from the restore tome are reduced in price accordint to yatta yatta etc etc.. In order to cast it, you must be capable of it. So 3/x casters are only capable of casting spells costing 3 or less. At the time that the spell is actually cast, you get the discount. As opposed to just reducing all 3+ SP spells in the tome by 1, which would cause confusion.
  17. Looks like a solid list to me. I like that you've got a variety of really nasty models - the Dragon Turtle, Uru & gang, and Khong To are all models that will give your opponent fits, and an opponent probably will not have enough high quality soldiers to directly take on all of those at once, so chances are good that you'll be able to play wrecking ball with their army. I also like the layered threats you have, what with the Skullbreakers having Rush Attack and the Gaan Hors having Swift Attack and Flier. My one critique is that you don't have any ranged attackers. Ranged attacks aren't necessary, strictly speaking, and I have certainly fielded my share of armies that have no ranged threat at all, but I can tell you that it can be limiting. When all you have are melee fighters, that means that every attack you make draws a defensive strike. Ranged attacks against models without ranged attacks of their own are "free" in that you don't get attacked back, and that an be huge. Consider finding space for Ssudai or Pakpao (mages) or even Klahan (archer). Or even just a single Nagendra Venomspitter - after all those models have an AOE attack and come with Poison as well, so you get plenty of bang for your buck there. That gives you the option of finishing off an enemy model at range instead of having to send in somebody to fight it out in melee. Often times a very powerful enemy model can wreck two or three of your own models, even on its last damage track - but an archer can seal the deal from safety. Just a thought to consider. The tough part about fitting just a little range into an army like this is that it looks so tight and you'd have to pull something important in order to fit in the range.
  18. They look pretty solid to me. High DV, high MAV.. It's interesting to compare them to Bull Orc Fighters because they have the same cost. Bull Orcs have an extra damage track, so they can absorb more damage. Bugbears are just a smidgen better at everything, but have only two tracks. As a Dwarf player Bugbears appeal to me. I like solid stats, and Bugbears have the goods!
  19. I agree that some soldiers with a little more moxie would help the list. If you're still looking for cheap, low powered soldiers, take a look at the Zombies (regular type, not burrowing). 12 points, pretty tame statistics, but.. what is that? Tough/3?? Yikes! For 12 points you get a model that will be hit most of the time but that will not die 40% of the time! Now that's pretty snazzy! Great way to tie up enemy soldiers while your Bone Horror acts as a wrecking ball, and while your Crimson Knight and Death Knight do their thing. One other note, and this is general really - not tied specifically to this Necro list. Kengar I've noticed that you have not been including Warlords in your lists. In Warlord 2nd Edition Warlords are seriously awesome. Their Warlord Abilities can be a real boon to your army. It's not like you MUST take one to field a good army, but it's worth considering. Maybe you have and you just have other focuses for the armies you have posted - and that's totally fine - but I just wanted to make sure to point out that you really do get plenty of bang for your buck when you field a Warlord. It'd be a shame to carry over the feeling from 1st edition that Warlords are just expensive captains when that is no longer the case.
  20. This project languishes in a state of near-completion. It's mostly touch-ups at this point. Maybe by midweek next week I'll have it wrapped up. Looking pretty good so far I think!
  21. Nothing wrong with avoiding a model for fluff reasons. One of the great things about this game is that you aren't hamstringing your army by avoiding something for fluff reasons. Try doing that with Warmachine!
  22. You'll have to put the Ogre Warrior into Varaug's troop (leaders may no longer take soldiers who cost more than they do), but otherwise it looks great! Props for using a Familiar, so few of us do. That's good stuff. Maybe move Kharg's Armor of Courage up to Varaug as well? That's just personal taste, but the +1 MAT will help Varaug to cleave more frequently, and a Mighty model that cleaves is just disgusting amounts of damage, so you want that to happen. Also Kharg will be fighting alone much of the time, and it's more likely that Varaug can share his Inspire bonus with others than it is for Kharg to share.
  23. Sounds like a great plan to me :D My regular D&D group typically defaults to euro games, which is fine, but nothing like a good old Warlord brawl in my book. You'll find 2nd edition to be just as lean and mean as first edition. Stuff goes down fast and hard in a flurry of combat. Only the rules are shinier! And archers aren't broken OR nerfed! And none of those pesky Adept shenanigans. OH and spellcasters are the hottness now.
  24. Speaking of sweet mech videos, I assume you've all seen this one? Mum's the word on development progress but the buzz is for late 2011 or 2012 release.. maybe.
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