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jdripley

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Everything posted by jdripley

  1. I think it's fine. There are enough Fearless models out there that having Fearless models auto pass Dis checks would have been a huge bummer for the models that really rely on models failing DIS to survive. Nauseate models, etc.. Often those are rough and tumble types offensively, but may not have the goods defensively. It does create an awkward rules-to-brain situation, but once you get your head around it it's simple enough. Also, immunity to Shaken is about as solid as it comes!
  2. re: Deathsleet's Warlord Ability: I think it can be good, but you have to play patiently. It allows three actions, so models with Warcaster/Warshooter and/or ranged attacks are best. The idea is that right off you're using a Move action to advance to within ranged attack distance, using your ranged attack or spellcasting, then using a Run action as your third to move back out of the way. You use your remaining troops to get in the way as best as they can. Next turn you repeat this on the flanks. If the enemy is breaking and you feel safe committing Deathsleet's troop, then you use this action sequence: 1) Charge into b2b with a single model 2) Melee attack on that model, hopefully killing it outright 3) ranged/magic action via Warshooter or Warcaster And that gets you double bang for your buck on that turn. You've got to have a solid list otherwise, it's not like you can use this trick by itself to carry the game, but it keeps your models safe early on and gives them the ability to put out loads of damage later in the game. May even have the added bonus of teasing an imprudent charge out of some cavalry models, too! Nothing like snacking on cavalry that gets advanced too far.
  3. OT: did you know that Claremont wrote sequels to the movie? I read the 1st sequel and it was pretty good. I've been looking for the 2nd in HB for a while now... Damon. I didn't know that! I'll have to give a look at that, thanks for the heads up
  4. Oh, right! I'm not knocking it really, just noting the quality. I think the story is far more important than the visuals. Visuals are nice, but story is supreme. I watched Avatar once and thought it was cool, but that's it. I keep coming back to Willow. Even though Willow is extremely dated with its effects, I think the story and characters are great, so it is worth watching.
  5. It's gotta be Durgam Deepmug for me. Before I played Warlord I used to play the clicky games.. mageknight and all of that. I was young, cut me some slack! Anyways, I picked up a 3-pack of Piercers and Durgam Deepmug just to paint, because I thought they looked really awesome. At that point I had no intention of playing the game, I just wanted to try out painting. But before long I had picked up the Dwarf army box, giving me 8 warriors, Margara + familiar, and Thorgram, and I had a blast painting them all up too! There were quick start rules in that box - just the super basic "this is how you roll to attack, your MOV is how far you can move, now go have fun!" And the rest is history really! Got a few friends into the game, and things took off from there. I picked up a Nefsokar army as well, and the primary motivation at that point was to have something a little trickier. Dwarves at that point were very straight forward. My first Nefsokar model, and one that I still think looks really awesome, was Neb'nesew Ne'pet, Royal Lord of the Sky, Bringer of Life and Death in the Sands, The Storm Lord. It was only this past summer that I picked up Khufu (mostly because the Divine Tome rocks my socks off), so whenever I played Nefsokar I always had Neb leading the fighting company. Man I love that guy, he's got so many tricks up his sleeves! We always used to insist that you use his full name and title whenever you referenced him. So when I activated him and declared/performed his actions, or when an opponent targeted him. "...next I'll cast a spell with Neb'nesew Ne'pet, Royal Lord of the Sky, Bringer of Life and Death in the Sands, The Storm Lord." Never got old
  6. I agree about the visuals. Better graphics in the cut scenes from Dawn of War. But heck, I'd watch a 1990's style animation if the story was good enough, know what I mean? I'll check out the review, thanks for the heads up on that!
  7. http://ultramarinesthemovie.com/shop $40 US to purchase the DVD. Seems steep to me, but hey. Maybe it's on ebay or something. But.. has anybody seen this, and is it even worth a search on ebay?
  8. 1. Correct, Fearless would negate the Shaken model state, but would not allow a model failing a discipline roll to break b2b to actually break b2b. 2. Correct also. Fearless actually does nothing against the Nauseating SA, as that SA doesn't give the Shaken effect, which is what Fearless prevents. Fearless and Discipline Checks is always a bit of a mind bend. I think it's a symptom suffered by the typical wargamer who plays 2 or 3 different wargames. We tend to think of Fearless as "passes all discipline checks" when in reality that's just not the case. I know I've made that assumption on more than one occasion.
  9. I've been trying some new things with my Dwarves. Hardly new as far as the game is concerned, but new for me. I tend to favor blocks of warriors/halberdiers, shieldmaidens, and tough leaders and elites. My armies tend to lack ranged attackers and are often outnumbered. Not that that is a bad thing, but I'm branching out from that lately. I started this army by saying to myself "I want a full quarter of the points to be Piercers." I filled it in from there. Dwarves - 999 points Troop 1 Freya Fangbreaker Durgam Deepmug --Mithril Armor Piercer x 3 Shieldmaiden x 2 Halberdier x 3 Troop 2 Logrim Battlefury Piercer x 3 Warrior x 2 Halberdier x 2 Troop 3 Gargram Heavyhand Piercer x 2 Forgemaiden x 3 Halberdier x 3 Troop 4 Griffon 28 models, 4 troops, and 1 spy. I've got loads of models - I often land at or very near 20 models in my 1,000 point armies, so 28 to me is a huge number. I've got a big nasty model (Griffon) to give them fits. Troop 1 is fairly elite, the sort of troop I'm used to. Durgam and Freya make a pretty good tag team, and tossing in Halberdiers only sweetens the deal! Troop 2 is a weaker version of troop 1 and will serve to compliment troop 1. Logrim is my boy, never disappointed with him. Troop 3 is a very odd thing for me. Piercers are a given in this list, but I've never used Forgemaidens before. Martyr just doesn't jive with me. But I'm giving it a shot. I figure that Troop 3 will be my reserve troop, the one I will throw in when the enemy brings out some heavy hitter. Martyr is good for trashing models that are going to kill your guys on defensive strikes anyways. What do you think? Any obvious weaknesses?
  10. Lawgiver, thanks for the push away from the post/pillar idea. You're right, that would have looked pretty bad. In the end I decided upon plank flooring. I needed to run to the store for more gray primer so I picked up some thin balsa wood while I was there. Used an exacto to carve a plank pattern into each. I then printed out some numbers, 1-6, and glued them to each spawn marker. I also did quite a bit of painting tonight. I still have a few touchups, mostly to cover goofs, but the painting is essentially done for now. The spawn markers got washed brown, the walls got sprayed gray and washed black, and the floor got a slathering of sand color. It's starting to come together. Here are some pictures: in order, the walls, the whole thing, and a detail of a spawn marker.
  11. I have taken a little time off from this project, but this afternoon finished putting the joint compound on the walls. After a brief sanding once it's try (tomorrow) I will prime it all and give the walls a nice wash. I'll post photos after that step. I have been thinking plenty on the respawn areas. My initial thought was to have some form of a disc or square that the models must have their bases on/touching. but perhaps it would be easier to have some sort of a post? That way I don't have the opportunity to flub up freehand or something crazy like that. I'm thinking basically a toothpick in the center of the spawn area, and modifying the rule to "models must spawn within 1" of the spawn post." I'll paint each post a different color, buy a blank D6 and color one of the colors on each side and call it a day. Probably use a toothpick for the post if I go that route.
  12. This. Warlord's magic system really isn't all that complicated. On top of that, you have a wide range of casters to choose from. You don't need to start with the Witch Queen, you can have some simple caster with only one or two tomes tops. I think that magic is a big option bucket in this game. A caster can help an army handle a wide variety of opponents, and that's part of the fun of the game! A good number of wargame players play more than one wargame, and the big question is "why should I pick up this new one?" And if all you demo is 200 or 300 points of basic warriors led by the lowest point sergeant, well... The game is pretty simple and those players are turned away. My thinking has been changing on this topic for a little while now, but currently I am an advocate for higher point games - but with lower model counts. Don't use the most basic soldier you can, pick something awesome! Crimson Knights, Bear Riders, stuff like that. So maybe you land around 400-500 points, you've got an awesome "showcase" leader and one or two kick butt soldiers, a low-powered caster, and a cheap solo (I'm not opposed to using a separate quality soldier as a solo in these cases, as it doesn't really break the game but helps you show off the initiative system better without jacking up the cost - some factions just do not have cheap solos. Here's a sample list: Dwarves - 400 points Troop 1 Freya Fangbreaker Ivar Silverfist Warrior x 3 Halberdier x 2 Piercer Berserker Troop 2 Bear Rider Obviously the bear rider is not a solo (used to be!!), but it's an awesome and large model that can be an eyecatcher, and it's strong enough to function as a solo. If a player really bites of course you explain to him that you used the bear as a solo for demo purposes, etc... I like the above list because it's fairly small - 10 models really isn't too big - and it really shows off all that the game and all that the Dwarves have to offer. Tough melee monster types, magic, ranged, high DV vs high MAV approaches, it's all there. As for the specific faction, you can highlight that the Dwarves are not prolific in their magic, and Ivar is the poster boy for "I basically do one thing well." You show off the shieldmaiden/warrior front line backed with Halberdiers which is a Dwarven defensive staple, and you've also got the shock troopers with the Bear and Berserker, and you're showing off the Piercer, one of the stronger Dwarven models. I don't really know how somebody could NOT fall in love with the Dwarves after playing this list in a demo, but hey... that might just be me right?
  13. More progress today, but nothing picture worthy. I have finished texturing the inner walls and have began to texture the outer walls. It looks essentially the same as the last picture, except the texture you see on the far wall is everywhere. The big thought item I have left is what to do for the spawn points. I have this idea in my mind of making up these fancy glowing magic runes that are 2" diameter circles. Another idea is to make trap doors using popsicle sticks - nonfunctional trap doors of course. Or maybe a stone floor pattern would fit the bill? I can't decide! Fortunately I have time, I will be texturing the exterior walls bit by bit over the next few days, I'll be spray primering the walls and painting them, and only then will I need to decide on what to do for the spawn points. The floor of the arena will be sandy. I've got some sand colored paint that I'll basecoat the entire floor with, then I'll brush PVA glue onto the surface and dump sand on it - pretty basic texturing there. And when that's done the project will be finished! Woo!
  14. Here's a picture in-process of texturing the walls. I don't recall the website where I found this technique, but it's a pretty good technique - very forgiving. Carving foam into a final shape always gives me fits, and while I think that a well-cut foam surface produces the best looking results, I do not think these results are too far below foam, and if you're not a master cutter, these results will be BETTER than foam surfaces. The basic idea is this: Grab a small bucket of joint compound (mine is 1 gallon), a regular knife from your silverware drawer, and a toothpick. If you want even rows of stones, you need to make a tool to give yourself accurate spacings (see below, the thing that looks like a telephone pole - it's just a popsicle stick with toothpicks glued on every 1/2 inch). Slop joint compound onto your walls. You're going for no more than 1/8" thickness. Wait a few minutes for the compound to get a little stiff, then run your tool along to make your rows, then use your toothpick to carve joints between specific stones in each row. As you work you'll get JC built up on your toothpick tip, make sure to wipe that off from time to time as it makes your lines lose definition. Let it all dry overnight (if you've globbed it on too thick, best to wait 2 nights). You then take a medium/fine grit sandpaper and knock off the high edges - as you score it with the toothpick little pieces will "point" up, and you want to knock those down. You CAN get fancy and go back with an exacto and clean out all of the little cracks and crevices and make it look all super... on a smaller project where the fine details are very important I'll do this, but on a big project I don't bother. Give it a good dusting to remove the particles, and you're ready for paint! All in all, it's a fairly easy and economical way to create a "castle wall" look. Here you can see my tool (popsicle stick w/toothpicks), knife, JC, toothpick, and a portion of the wall as it dries. On a project this size, scoring the lines between stones gets rather tedious. My best advice is to do a WIP article on a forum so that you have a very reasonable excuse to stop, take a picture, transfer the file online, write out a few paragraphs, etc. Currently I have all of the interior walls complete and the two "teeth" complete (since the last picture I removed the middle tooth for aesthetic an pathing reasons - used the remaining "tooth" to break up the space between spawns 1 and 2, which I also moved closer to each other). I still need to texture both eyes and the nose. I will be texturing the outer surface as well, but I do not think that I will carve rocks into them. I may just put a thin layer of JC on the outside, and I may tape it so that it looks even and neat and so that it loses the cardboard look. Leaning towards the thin layer of JC.
  15. Good eye, painters tape it is. I'll be texturing all of the 3d portions with joint compound which will further solidify the structures - so no, nothing stronger than painters tape. I actually use painters tape alot in my terrain making and have never had a problem with it. School's done for the day so I'm going to get more done on this. Last night after posting and Starcraft (woo hoo Wildbill and that last game with the ling victory!) I made a tool to help with the texturing and tried it out on a few surfaces. Working great so far. I'll probably take one process picture and post with pictures again when all of the walls are textured. Later on this afternoon I think.
  16. Ok, here's some pictures. Here's the sketch, base board, and some tools: And here it is cut out and drawn in: Next I taped the walls onto the sides. The base plate is 3/4" foamcore/foamboard, and I decided on 2" high walls, so I first cut out strips of cardboard 2.75" high, then I began taping it from the bottom to form the wall. Prior to taping it I bent the cardboard in the directions it needed to curve to lower the chance of getting some crazy hard angle someplace I didn't want it. Picture: And here it is, all put together and mostly ready for texture: Still need to make some fine tuning adjustments to the exact locations of all of the bits in the middle so that they're more or less even. The next step is going to be texturing the walls which I will do by smearing joint compound onto the walls and middle surfaces and then carving stone shapes into the joint compound as it dries. There's loads of room for slop in that stage so I'm not too concerned with getting all of the pieces exactly true.
  17. For going on 5 years now I've had a home-brewed Arena rule set for Warlord that I have played with friends. It's a quick battle where everybody has 4 models, when they die they come back the next round, and you just try to rack up kills faster than your opponents. When we first came up with it we'd make arenas out of whatever terrain bits we had lying around. Very hodge-podge. Recently the arena game has come back to mind, but this time I want to step up the scenery. No more "counts as" terrain for my arena battles. No sir! I plan on making some custom-built arenas to brawl in. First up: The Iron Skull! This arena is designed after the look of a human skull, with pillars and obstacles in the pattern of the eyes/nose/teeth. The overall dimensions are 24" x 18" and the highest features will be 2-4" high (haven't decided yet.. 2" is easier to play around, but would 4" look better?) Pictures to follow in following posts! (space reserved to post links to the other arenas I have sketches for: The Blood Pit Die-Angle The Castle
  18. That would indeed stink huge to lose your only model. In the end I think it's kindof a novelty to "be able to start with only one model on the table" and do a huge summoning chain. A far safer approach would be to have, say, half of your summoners on the table for deployment, and when you see the makeup and deployment of your opponents army you can use the first turn to summon in the rest of your forces in an optimal way. There's just too many possibilities for getting a model way downfield to do some damage for it to be safe to deploy only one model. If there are any casters, any cavalry, any Ranger, and any ranged models it's best not to leave yourself open to shenanigans.
  19. I managed to get 4 skeletons completed - two sword & board, a pike & shield, and an archer. Nothing fancy, just bone colored, washed, with gear painted appropriately. I need to start up a new D&D character so I have an excuse to paint up a good character mini. Lately the special characters have been intriguing me way more than the rank and file. Not that that's really new, or unique even, but I've just not had the inclination to paint up soldiers at ALL.
  20. Sounds like a sweet battle! I'm always too afraid to do anything with my Dwarves beyond make a square, insult the enemy Warlord, and slog it out in melee, so very few of my games are so decisive. But I like what you did with the Coatls and with your casters. Pretty devastating, and even if he did use Luck Tokens to shrug off much of the poison, those are Luck Tokens that are not being used to kill your guys, so it's not a total loss. When I was learning the game my buddy played Reptus, so I have a healthy respect for the power of that faction. I agree that it's good to hear a battle report of them kicking butt and taking names!
  21. I use some stones I found out in the back yard. Hot glued them together into a vaguely humanoid shape. Only have to re-glue it every several battles, too!
  22. I once had a missing miniature turn up in a sock drawer. true story.
  23. Don't let old WildBill get you down on Snorri. He's a fantastic model. You just need to play very conservatively with him. Get greedy for a kill with Snorri and it's all over. He's just too good of a target for an enemy army - especially if you tack on a big ticket weapon like the Hammer. What's that put him at, around 150 points? Be content to attack targets of opportunity for the first turn or two. Unless he's in a dangerous position and you need to get him out of dodge, activate him late in the turn to give your more opportunities to put your own models in between him and the enemy (yes this limits his potential shots. Yes this limits the enemy's possible routes to take Snorri out). I can pretty well guarantee you that if a game goes to 4 or 5 turns, and you've still got Snorri at full health and out of melee combat, you've probably got the game in the bag. At that point neither player will have enough cohesion in their army left to put together a serious attack, and Snorri can just shoot that big old crossbow and backpedal until the deed is done.
  24. Sounds awesome! I agree with joshuaslater, upload some pictures!! I think a league format has plenty of merit. Campaigns scare me, to be honest.. They're just super hard to create in an interesting and dynamic way, and they're even harder to implement. Most often the winners of the initial battles go on to win the whole thing, and the entire campaign is a slow death for the initial loser. It's a symptom of the fact that a central element to campaign play is that your victories should reward you in a meaningful way. So I favor league play. If you want to introduce some campaign elements I'd suggest a sort of "escalation league" where you start off with small skirmishing bands and move on to larger and larger battles.
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