Jump to content


Madog Barfog

Members
  • Content Count

    881
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

152

About Madog Barfog

  • Rank
    Master

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Painting again after a 6 year break.

Recent Profile Visitors

762 profile views
  1. Madog Barfog

    03135 B'thuhl, Bathalain Pirate

    I love bathalains, and think this one would go well in a SpellJammer-ish campaign.
  2. Madog Barfog

    Ral Partha Seated Holy Man, by Dennis Mize

    I've tried using a needle too, but it just doesn't work. Ive never tried a sharpened toothpick; I'll have to keep that in mind!
  3. Madog Barfog

    Ral Partha Seated Holy Man, by Dennis Mize

    Older Partha sculpts had awesome anatomy, frankly more accurate than today's Reaper figures. The downside is that makes the eyes TINY, especially on 28mm figures, and difficult to paint. I'm a hand drummer, although I don't hold my drum this way, as my style is Middle Eastern instead of the more popular African (or bongos). Maybe I should get this guy just because of his drum?
  4. Madog Barfog

    Ral Partha Witch Casting Spell by Dennis Mize

    Very nice, as always. I also love the Dark Elf Skin triad, although I believe it's been discontinued. I used some when I was painting a pirate as a Negro, and while I unfortunately forget the formula, I was super happy with how his skin tone looked.
  5. Madog Barfog

    Badger Minitaire Paint

    Yellows and reds, in general, can have difficulty covering. I find it best to undercoat with another color first, such as white or cream, then paint over that.
  6. Since vhaidra mentioned using 1000 grit sandpaper for prep in another thread, I thought I'd throw out one of my tips. After I'm done removing flash from my mini I go over it with a nylon brush in a rotary tool. This gives me an extra smooth finish, and smooth painting is something we all pursue. Then I wash and prime as usual. Q: But doesn't that remove detail? A: Not that I can tell. Q: On metal minis only, or also resin/plastic/Bonesium? A: I've only used it on metal minis, since my experience with other materials is extremely limited. I would definitely test it on a non-metal scrap piece first, as metal is much harder than other materials.
  7. Madog Barfog

    Maledrakh's 77416 Formorian Giant

    IIRC, Fomorians weren't symmetrical, although you probably know better than I do. Maybe he's a fan of Mystery Men? Nice job!
  8. Madog Barfog

    Ral Partha Julie Guthrie Archer

    Mmm, Night Ranger. I remember that band, and the way they sprung up from the lavender at the beginning of their concerts... Well, it was the 80s, my memory may be affected. Great job as always on this blast from the past! You know I have a fondness for these old sculpts, since Reaper didn't even exist when I started collecting and painting back in the 80s.
  9. Madog Barfog

    Let's make ... noch ein Bier - Unknown Company Bloodweiser Girl

    "Blonde" is actually a range of color. I'm thinking of Paul Stamets from Discovery, who has very light hair and almost white eyebrows on the light end, and Dany Targeryan from GoT on the other end, with her much darker eyebrows (although Emilia Clarke is actually brunette so probably has something to do with it). For figure painting, I'd go with darker eyebrows, since you need to accent shades and highlights, especially on tiny details such as these. I wish I could recommend a color, but I can't, other than a light brown.
  10. Madog Barfog

    Need newb advice

    I wouldn't use my finest brushes for priming or sealing, if for no other reason than they are too small for covering an entire figure. Plus, while they seem to last forever, there is no reason to add additional wear to them. I use hobby store superglue for about everything. The stuff I buy comes in 3 different thicknesses and used to be called Zap-a-gap (not sure if that brand is still available). While it's possible to sculpt a new claw from green stuff, I think it would be easier to find a mini with a hand you like, cut it off, and graft it on your rakshasa. I'd definitely use a pin, but it doesn't need to be very long at all.
  11. Madog Barfog

    Basing question - materials to use

    Brilliant! I was an electronics hobbyist and this never occurred to me.
  12. Madog Barfog

    Necromantic logging machinery

    Fantastic! I love Legos, and the fact that this is actually a functional model with whirling blades is just awesome!
  13. Madog Barfog

    Ral Partha's Ghost Dragon

    I'll just say that I painted one of these years ago. It's a cool figure, but not the easiest to work with IMO. I like what you've done.
  14. Madog Barfog

    Basing question - materials to use

    Lots of good advice here, and I'll chime in as I've been told I do good bases. Model train stores have a ton of great basing material. I recommend more than one shade of static grass and 2-3 sizes of gravel mixed on a base to look more natural. Be sure to paint the gravel with more highlight/shade than natural or the scale will look wrong. I've also picked gravel out of the gutter on my street, and moss/lichen/fungi from my yard. While there may be a bit of change between what it looks like growing on a log in the shade vs. covered in polyurethane and dull coat, in general I've had pretty good luck. This technique is especially good for creating alien/underdark flora. Micheals sells some interesting moss/lichen packs that are also ideal for this. Water effects are also available, both in a 2 part epoxy or resin mix for smooth water, or a paste (Woodland Scenics Water Effects) for choppy stuff. Be sure to mix the 2 part stuff correctly so it doesn't end up gooey. Small gauge stranded wire can be stripped and individual strands used as an armature for green stuff flames. Remember painting fire is backwards - white/light yellow for the bottom/inside, oranges/reds for the top/outside. Tiny seashells are available at some hobby/art stores, good for seaside bases. Tiny cat tails can be made from floral wire and green stuff, and you can paint some paper green, cut it into thin strips, and make some good swampy-looking growth. Reaper and others sell skulls and bones that are great for graveyard/dead type scenes. I love the look of previous victims. Pinning isn't hard. Remember that you only need to drill into anything a short distance, maybe 2-3 mm. Good luck!
  15. Thanks for the replies. Simply because I like to overengineer, I always give 1 day each between final paint, first gloss seal, second gloss seal, and matte finish (at least 3 days total from last paint to final sealant). I like the lower cost of Bones minis, and maybe the new material will help. Until then, I suppose I can only blaze on and hope I don't have issues.
×