Jump to content

Wraithshadow

Members
  • Posts

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Wraithshadow's Achievements

Rabble Rouser

Rabble Rouser (3/8)

0

Reputation

  1. My old painting area. My new painting area.
  2. Something else you might want to do, for quick reference and organization: get a piece of plasticard and prime it, then mark it off into squares, maybe 1" on a side. You might need several pieces, but it works regardless. Next paint each square a color, with one square per bottle. When they're dry, you could add a marker to the corner, such as the number on the bottle (not sure if Reaper uses a number system- I know others do). Hang these up on the wall behind your desk, directly over the shelves. You can arrange the paints to match the grid, and you'll have an easy reference for exactly what each one looks like when dry.
  3. The only question becomes, "Do I want these sitting horizontal all the time?" I keep it simple- I have a box. I think it was originally intended for sewing bits, something like that. In any case, it's got little dividers in it that I can insert and remove (for instance, if you wanted to divide up triads) and I just mark the tops of the bottles. When I need it, I set it on a chair next to mine, and pop it open. When I don't need it, it fits in a drawer.
  4. Being me, I'd say leave the ceiling as is, add a few hinges to either side of the broken drywall, then get a doormat you could attach some foam rubber spikes to. Put the doormat under the hole and add a sign to the wall. "Beware Falling Adventurers." The sheer amount of gamer geek points you'd get for that...
  5. Saint of Sinners and Eddie Izzard, separated at birth?
  6. Damn. When this thing's done, it's going to be a local legend.
  7. My understanding of Simple Green is that it works best within a certain window- let it sit too long and it starts to lose its effectiveness, and the paint 'regrips' to a certain degree. As for Castrol SuperClean, I've used that myself for years. But there was an issue- I kept getting slimy hands. Didn't know what it was. Then someone explained that CSC has this fun tendency to turn the fat in your skin to soap. To say nothing of other hazards from it. I've given up on the purple stuff now.
  8. Presently, I know nothing about Reaper paints- the only paint I had by Reaper was I think the non-Master series, where I got a little cylinder of olive paint that was as thick as... well, I remember dipping my brush in it and the paint formed a little wave, complete with curl, where the brush came out of the pot. That was a bit disturbing. However, I'm familiar with Vallejo Game Color, and some Model Colors, as well as other stuff. VGC is, to the best of my knowledge, the Games Workshop line. There's been some rumors I've heard that the VGC set was originally going to replace the Citadel line, but that got canceled. So Vallejo relabeled it and sold it themselves. I've used VGC for a while, and it took me a good bit to get used to it after being used to GW paints. The colors are nice, it's fluid, and, I've had few issues using them. There's a fairly constant level of quality across the line, with similar opacity and thickness from one paint to another. However, and this is a big however, they're fragile. I've never had so many paints chip and peel as VGC. There's been times when I've been painting a figure only to find bits of paint had been rubbed off by my holding the miniature in my hand- not squeezing it, just holding it up while I painted. This has annoyed me. Plus, there's some issues with the dropper bottles- but that's not going to change going from one company's droppers to another company's droppers. They're still droppers. VMC is, as folks have said, much more given to separation. Serious separation. I've found myself routinely mixing in extra medium (generally glaze medium) to try and retard separation on the palette. I would never add a drop of VMC color to a palette without shaking quite vigorously. I fully expect to see it turn to chalky, gritty stuff when it dries. I initally intended to purchase the full (and oh boy is it full) VMC line. But after some tests, I gave up on it. Now I use the few colors I have now and then, but I don't intend to expand. The only other thing that I have to say is, well, that a picture's worth a thousand words. There's been some talk about prices- so I figure it's only fair to show a picture I snapped while reviewing... well... P3 paints. I don't really want to discuss P3 paints here- call me sentimental, but I feel squeamish bringing up another company's products, let alone giving my two cents. In any case, here's the relative sizes of the bottles. The order from left to right is Reaper, VGC, P3, VMC, and GW. I'd include others, but this is all the stuff I own. Well, other than the Oro Liquido stuff- but that's not a full line, so there's no point in comparing them.
  9. My understanding is that there's two ways to go when attempting to tone down a red- first, you go with color theory and darken it, second, you mute it by bringing in the greys. The real issue with reds is that if you try adding, say, black, you get a muddy red. It looks dirty, rather than darker. Thus, you have to go with trying to exploit the color wheel. What's opposite red? Green. Add green to red, you get a darker red. This can take you down to black if you let it. If you want a cooler red, you could use blues or purples, although that's more tint than dark. You could end up with wine instead of fire. The second option is to bring in greys. Greys tend to mute the color rather than darken it- they flatten out, get softer, more pastel. Depending on just how much you toss in. It's great for ghostly effects, and in small amounts you could 'neutralize' a bright color without doing too much damage.
  10. I remember a DM who had realistic (read: standard dimension) doors in his dungeon. We opened a door and found a 10x10 room, with several more doors off of it. So we stepped in. No idea how the cube was supposed to have gotten in there, or how the whole party walked into it without being instantly paralyzed or noticing everyone else dying. But that was a short night.
  11. That would be Necrotite Green highlighted up to Menoth White Highlight. Basically Necrotite Green everywhere the light falls, then working the highlights in the actual eyes, nose, and mouth. I think Necrotite Green's a fairly midline green, while the Menoth White Highlight would be a linen sort of slightly greenish-white.
  12. The interior of the skull is supposed to be the source- it's based off of a Jennifer Haley winning piece. Scrolling to the very bottom is the easiest way to find it.
  13. I'll grab a couple more- although I don't really want to show off the back of the head, just because it's covered by a very poorly done freehand, courtesy of a bent brushtip. The model's from Privateer Press's Warmachine game. You should be able to find it anywhere that sells WM, just look under the Mercenaries section.
  14. This miniature was primarily intended to test out some new paint I got in the mail today. I wasn't really planning anything with it, other than just having fun. And then about halfway through it I figured, hey- what the heck? Why not try that new thing everyone's doing...whatsit... OSL, yeah. Let's try that. So here's the results of my halfhearted, no-planning, spur of the moment try at OSL. And new paints. I think it turned out pretty well. I skipped a few little details, but I can go back and hit those. This was just for fun, after all.
×
×
  • Create New...