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buglips*the*goblin

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Everything posted by buglips*the*goblin

  1. This is the classic 72mm Sophie. I'm not using the liners here, just thinned Pro Paint Dragon Black. One drop of water per one drop of paint. As you can see, I'm very sloppy about priming and lining. Sometimes I'm neater, but by the time I'm through all the stages it won't matter. The important thing for me is to have the paint lines in the crevices very dark. I may go over this Sophie a second time to schieve this. She won't be nearly as sloppy looking at the end (we hope), but at this stage I'm not too picky. Oh yeah, and I used a 20/0 Kolinsky for this exercise in wobbly lining. *cough* No, seriously. On a 72mm Sophie no less. Like I said, sloppy.
  2. Love them boots! For eyes, there was an article on here... in The Craft, I think... called Bette Davis Eyes or something like that. It suggested doing the eyes first. I tried it out and found it a lot easier that way. Especially since it eliminates the trepidation of possibly ruining nice facework.
  3. I found your process interesting. She started off pretty loose and watery-looking, but you really tightened it up for the finish and the detail work is good. I especially like the hair. My picture-taking sucks, too. That's why it's been a long, long time since I've posted a pic. I might want to do that soon, though.
  4. Renowyth, in a roundabout way old Citadel paint kits brought me into the hobby too. I think it was 1992, and a friend had bought some. I'd never even heard about this hobby, despite playing D&D for a few years. Nobody I knew used miniatures with their game, and the game/comic stores were tucked away in a little alley downtown that I'd never visited. I sure visited after I found out about minis, though. Practically lived there. I used to paint my plastic British army toy soldiers when I was about 8 years old... so I clearly had the bug just not the right subject. My friend who introduced me to it gave up painting minis for a while after that, but he's getting some Reaper paint kits from me soon enough to complete the circle and hopefully encourage him back into it.
  5. I pruned my shelf of shame from 400 to 200, and then yesterday I bought another $110 of old Ral Partha to start the cycle again. It's something like having eyes bigger than your stomach. But it's hard to resist, with literally thousands of seriously cool miniatures out there begging to be bought. I think I'm going to start leaving them in their blisters and dumping them in a box. Then I can have a box of shame, kick it under the table, and not have to look at it and feel guilty. Maybe take it out once a year to ogle my precioussess and then put it away again.
  6. I also agree on the learn to paint kits. They were a big help for me starting out, and Anne's instruction in them is top notch. I'm going to buy some to give out as Christmas gifts this year. And yes, yes, yes, YES! to buying a good Reaper Master kolinsky brush. I stuck with the cheap ones for a long time before finally upgrading to a good one and it is a huge difference. As Anne said, the cheap ones are still good for grunt work (especially drybrushing, since that's the kiss of death for brushes). It cost me $80 worth of cheap brushes to get half the result I got from one good Master brush. One other item of use if you can find them at a reasonable price is a set of small files. A mix of round and flat ones is good. You'll need these and an X-acto knife (#11 blade will do) in order to prep the minis and remove seams and such. It's pretty easy work with the right tools, and it will substantially improve the finished appearance. Most Reaper minis I've gotten are extremely high quality castings with a minimum of seamlines and flash so you may be able to get away without filing for a little bit, but at some point these will become essential tools.
  7. If you're building a set of colours, the easiest way is to pick a miniature and buy colours for it. Then repeat for the next one, etc. I did this when I was building plastic model kits, and you can accumulate a nice palette that way without either having heavy upfront costs or being short paints for the project at hand. If you've got a bit of money and would prefer a larger set, but without spending too much, check out miniature-giant.com. They still have a fair amount of blister packed older Reaper Pro paints for pretty cheap. I just bought a full set and some Reaper Master Brushes from them. The Pro Paints, even ones that have been discontinued for 2 years, were still in perfect shape.
  8. And the 3 golden rules of painting: 1. Have fun! 2. Experiment! 3. Don't be afraid to screw up! Personally, I like to put most of my effort into that last one.
  9. I use black for lining, and I use it anyplace different materials meet, or where there's an overlap. So I'd line between a belt and the cloth around it, but also where the belt might overlap itself. It is a more unrealistic look, but when I experimented with it I grew to love it. I prime in white, then blackline so the mini looks like an inked drawing. Very stark. Then I block in my darkest shade as the base, leaving some blackline visible and highlight out. It's not the most popular style, but I absolutely love the effect however fake it appears. Realism isn't my goal. I figure since I'm the one who has to live with 'em, whats pleasing to my eyes trumps all. :-p edit: I'm actually thinking of completely crossing over to the dark side and painting minis with harsher shading to mimic a cel animation look. I might be crazy, but I don't see many minis done like that and it might be a unique fun thing to try. Might turn out horrible, too, but I think it'd be an interesting experiment.
  10. Everybody's got a favourite! I love all the Reaper sculpts, but my favorite sculptors will always be Sandra Garrity and Dennis Mize. Their Ral Partha sculpts are what got me smitten with the hobby in the early 90's. Wish I could find out who was sculpting for RAFM, though. With the exception of a large-scale punk/amazon credited to Werner Klocke I don't think I've ever seen the name of a sculptor on their stuff.
  11. Or at least the name/# of the figure? I've been dyin' to know!
  12. I just realized that all this time I've been thinking about the wrong module. I've been thinking about The Temple of Elemental Evil. That one and Dragon Mountain were our most sanguinary forays.
  13. There's an eBay guy I use to get HTF zvesda kits only available in the Russian area. tamag147 is their name. They're in Ukraine. They ship fast n' cheap (about 2 weeks mailing time, prices about what it costs to ship US-Canada) and pretty much specialize in zvesda. If you're on eBay, ask them about it.
  14. Chuck Norris wouldn't need paint. He'd just do everything in Blood Red. Or Fist, if Fist qualifies as a colour. 'Course if Chuck Norris says it's a colour, who'd argue?
  15. Awesome! They're on my hit list, either next or after a set of Coat d'Arms. I did not enjoy my time with MSP's and actually it was the announcement of the new Pros that got me excited about painting again. They sound like they're right up my alley.
  16. I've got a Christmas Sophie on the table since 2006. THAT is slow!
  17. Hey, it turns out I had warm walnut all along and didn't know it. I got it as a sample on one of my past orders. I didn't know what it was because it had a "sample" sticker on it. It's still in good shape, so that rather conveniently solves the matter. Just goes to show that Reaper is so good, they can even predict future needs before you have 'em! Lol, I just can't believe it worked out like this. Bizarre. Very cool, but bizarre.
  18. I got Antique Rose in the kit instead of Blackened Brown. There was a numbering issue on the equivalency sheet. It says 9139 Blackened Brown, but 9139 is Antique Rose. 9137 was Blackened Brown. I had hoped to retry the kit with the original pro paints listed on the sheet, but then I discovered that Warm Walnut wasn't a separately purchaseable paint. Thanks for getting back to me, I completely understand that you can't give me the formula.
  19. I don't know if it's intentional or not, but the V on his shield really looks like the old spraypainted logo of the NBC miniseries about space lizards who liked to eat people. Which is a plus in my books, I'm just wondering if you did it on purpose.
  20. No problem. If you look at the pic on her order page the whip is separated. If you're planning to cut it away so it's like that, do it now. It's gonna need some filing work afterwards. Your sculpt looks nicely unwarped so you might be able to get away with leaving it as it is. Also, be very careful of her dagger blade. It's easy to snap off and a real pain to re-attach.
  21. She's my most favourite mini of all. I need to get another one... The only suggestion I have is to maybe give her some dark (maybe even black) boots. She looks dead sexy in black thigh-highs.
  22. You get a sheen even with Testor's dullcote? That's weird. It knocks the shine off everything I've got. I discovered its powers working with hi-gloss decal and setting solutions for models. I don't know if that might be a feature of what you're using for underlayer or anything, though. I really haven't experimented with extenders, flow improvers, sealers, additives, misc. Paint, future, dullcote works for me. Sorry I couldn't be more help with what's causing your grief.
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