Jump to content


Forum Mascot
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Days Won


Everything posted by buglips*the*goblin

  1. Ok, so I have a few more Q's. Will there still be a kit 1 (even if not called kit 1)? Or will Armor and Fur get separated (I noticed a long time back that Kit 5, Armor, was mentioned but has yet to appear)? Will these kits use the same minis as existing kits, or new ones? What happened to kit 3? It's not available anymore. Has it already been re-done and is just waiting release? Finally, is there any kind of loose estimate of when these will be available? I've been trying to get some friends to try the kits so they can paint their own and leave me alone. Lol. I like to test things out before I recommend them, though. I'm looking forward to trying the new kits now that my aversion to the pots has faded. I got a lot of use, fun, and instruction out of the 4 kits already. You did a wonderful job explaining and illustrating, IMO.
  2. Some skulls would be nice. There's bases of all skulls, a set of humanoid skulls, but no set of generic human skulls. It's almost cheaper for me to buy skeletons and saw off their heads than buy packs and packs of humanoid skulls for the one or two usable ones. I just sacrificed a levy of old RP skeletons to the #11 guillotine. Skulls are very useful additions to dress up demon bases, dragon bases, heck I'd even stick 'em on mushroom men. Carnivorous mushroom men. Of course if there's already a Reaper pack of skulls I just haven't found, or if somebody knows where I can otherwise get some, I'd appreciate it.
  3. Who wrote Kit 1? Or was that after Kit #2? I'm so confused. So... Are you going with the pots instead of bottles still? I'm guessing yes if it's two more colors. I'm interested in checking out the new LTP kits, and I can probably overlook the pots. They're not so bad once I got used to them. I guess one plus to the pots is that quality control and consistency will be easier. I had one bottle replaced by a totally different color (rose instead of brown), and then much later I also figured out that my "walnut brown" was actually black with the wrong label! (I thought it was awfully dark). The kits were still awesome though, errors and all. Updated LTP kits will give me another crack at the techniques.
  4. I have a fluorescent desk lamp on the left, and an incandescent desklamp on the right. I find some colors/shading easier to see under one vs. the other and a little lean left or right gives me the light I need. I also find that having the incandescent helps reduce eye fatigue or headaches from the fluorescent.
  5. I've had several orders through RAFM, and no problems. It's a good way for me to get bits of both lines in one order. However, the RAFM selection of Reaper products is slender. They do not, for example, sell master series triads. Nor brushes. Nor putty. Nor do they offer all of the Dark Heaven line. It's those facts that keep me from ordering more from them, and I wind up coming here to fill out my needs. I have no FLGS to support because they dumped Reaper in favour of GW. I haven't been there since.
  6. I must be the only soul who loves the taklons. I actually enjoy the hook. It might be because I got used to having to employ the brush with one. I find it's still a point, it's just at an angle. So instead of, say, dotting an eye straight in I tilt the mini and get a nice steady rest hold. I'm evil to brushes, so it's better for me to have an army of cheap ones. Some of my taklons lasted months with minimal care, some died gloriously and quickly on the field of paint (like the 20/0 I accidentally jabbed into the table). I think my 5/0 lasted the longest, and for a while I even used it to basecoat. The only complaint I DO have about taklons is that some of the last brushes I bought didn't have the plastic protector tube. They came "pre-ruined". I like to ruin them myself, TYVM. It wasn't a big deal, though, since I'll just send them off for "small drybrush" duty or other hard labour.
  7. Isn't RP still around as Iron Wind Metals? They're still putting out minis under the RP name, and battletech stuff too. I don't like plastic. Heck, I don't even like using plastic bases (though they are an unfortuante necessity sometimes). But that's me, and I won't buy 'em. I'm happy to keep buying metal minis. So long as I have metal minis, I'm happy. If metal minis dry up and Reaper goes all plastic, THEN I shall vent and rage about the destruction of the hobby. I'll add it to my 3rd-edition D&D rants (fell abomination!) and go out on street corners with a placard.
  8. Jiminy jillikers! The paint stains on the bench make it look like an abbatoir! The carnage, the carnage! Having fought her way through hordes of the unpainted (like the undead, but more difficult to turn), Sophie stands supreme victor and poses for the camera. Seriously, though, that Sophie-on-a-box looks way cool.
  9. I remember working at a comic shop when the first DHL's started coming out. I was a die-hard Ral Partha man. RP or bust! The DHL looked ok, I thought, but they were no Ral Partha! Now it's more like: Ral who? What DHL grew into from those early days is something truly spectacular (truth be known the early stuff is very cool too and I'm pleased it's available on special order now). Of course at the time I didn't realize RP and Reaper shared sculptors. *cough* These days I've softened a bit, but now there's so many fine minis from different sources I'd have a job just getting ONE companies stuff. So I restrict myself mainly to the three R's... Reaper, Ral Partha, and RAFM. Every now and then, though, I'm compelled to add some Dark Sword stuff. I am never gonna finish painting all these. I'm gonna wind up like the crazy cat lady, only with a house full of minis. Minis everywhere. Enough lead, pewter, and white metal to make certain Superman never learns about my supervillainous escapades on the side. Mwahahahahaha. Hey, where do you think the money for minis (and Igor's upkeep) comes from? Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go place an ad in the paper for a new henchwench.
  10. When you buy the kits, check kit #3 to see if it has the appropriate "Blackened Brown" 9137 or the error "Antique Rose" 9139. Unless you want to mix a substitute you'll need Blackened Brown to do the NMM correctly. If you have the error bottle, contact Reaper for a replacement bottle. I'm still hoping Reaper won't go with pots for the re-dos, but I suspect they probably will. Paint Kit #4 is a standalone, it's just skintones and lining and how to use the skin triads effectively. You don't need the earlier kits to do it. Paint kit #4 ONLY teaches skintones and lining, though, so the rest of the mini is up to you. Given this, I'd say get the first three and then #4 (so you can learn the other essentials).
  11. That sword is SWEET! *making note to steal that technique* I love Jalinrix. I need to finish mine. But first I need to finish the goblin on my bench. He is, after all, a brother goblin.
  12. I should add to this discussion now that I've had a chance to play with kit #4. I understand now why the pots went into kit #4. They're not kidding when they say "skintones" because that's it (well, and lining). The kit instructs how to use the tan skin triad and liner paints. Since there is no instruction on how to finish the minis, the strip of assorted colors goes in so the user can do what they wish. I actually found some use for the pot paints after discovering that paint kit #3 had been packaged with an inappropriate color (I got Antique Rose instead of Blackened Brown). Anne nicely offered to send a replacement, but I was able to use the pots to mix up my own and put this into an empty MSP bottle. Of course this usefulness was more of the fortunate coincidence kind than anything else. Since then I've been on the fence about the pots. They are MSP paints and good quality, and there's even a couple of colors I don't have. But I have to be honest that even in this circumstance I'm tempted to just toss 'em. For paint kit 4 I can see why the pots went in. All the instruction uses the bottles, and the pot string is just enough colors to finish the minis however the user sees fit. That makes sense. I would still like to see bottles instead, but at least it works to logic. But re-doing the first three kits this way will not, in my opinion, be even nearly as successful because the instruction is less suited (lots of mixing, etc.). Now, granted, these paint kits used to be old pro paint bottles so you had to mix from essentially large pots anyway... but if you're going to re-do the fundamental basics then why retrograde? Take advantage of the opportunity to use the better qualities of MSP's and sell the kits as an introduction to MSP's. For example, if the pots are just as good as the dropper bottles then why did MSP's ever get dropper bottles in the first place? The answer, of course, is because dropper bottles are WAY better for mixing, paint use, preserving paint, etc. So why strip away (pun intended) an introduced improvement? How does this help sell the line if you take out one of its better features? It's not just selling the initial kit which is important, but also using this to encourage further future sales of other MSP's to the buyer. Yes, saving money is nice and keeping prices down is also nice. But from what I'm seeing on this thread I'm not alone in my opinion of these changes. If this is representative of a larger opinion, then it could be a problem. It might be that the opinions expressed here are in the minority... but the way I see it what's good for Reaper is good for me. It means you'll keep making stuff I like to buy. So if some potential customers are being turned off by this change and not buying in, even if it's not a huge number of them, is this change actually better for the bottom line than a price raise with better quality? Moreover, will this effect be exacerbated if the change goes through on ALL the paint kits? If a potential long term customer sees this and says to themselves it looks like garbage, how much money has Reaper truly lost? If a new person uses the pots and gets frustrated (they're small, easily tipped, and mine were a bear to open without splattering everywhere), how much money in future sales is lost because they give up? All for the cost of dropper bottles. It'd be nice if we could get some stats for a clearer picture. Maybe a vote by consumers as to what they want to see, or a request for feedback on the subject. Toss that into an issue of Casketworks and see what results. At least then whatever decision is reached Reaper can be sure it's definitely giving most people what they really want. I'll also add this two cents: if the reason for going cheap on the paint kits really is a "nickels and dimes add up issue"... then why are people getting gratis strips of pots with orders and how much is that eating out of the bottom line? Free stuff is ok, but I'd rather get quality for money I spend than free crap I didn't ask for.
  13. *thud* You know, I have a complaint to make about Reaper. Yeah, youse guys. You make too much cool stuff. Here I am, working my guts out trying to catch up and you keep adding MORE! More that I'm sure I'll never get around to painting. Sophies, Moniques, and enough sexy demon ladies to keep the Prince of Darkness busy (and tired) for the next millennium. Now, thanks to you and your thoroughly inconsiderate constant production of awesome things I am compelled to live off cheap ramen (yeah, not even the GOOD kind!) and someday you will be responsible for my family/descendents having to pay the expense of having me buried with a thousand thousand blisters of unpainted cool minis I never got to. I hope you're all proud of yourselves!
  14. I do it simpler, and find it gives me the results I want. I simply basecoat with the midtone, do an all over wash with the shadow (which tends to darken everything), then I highlight with the base color and work my way up, and then at the end I'll blend it all in with a thin glaze of the base color to smooth things out. I have a real nice Marilith that shows this, but I'm having camera issues so it might be a while before I have a pic to show what I mean. Generally I'm of the school of thought that simpler is better so I try to find methods that produce good results without an overwhelming expenditure of time and effort. You can also modify this to base with shadow, highlight up, and then glaze with a midtone to blend things together. Diff'rent strokes, lemme hear ya sing it!
  15. Jalinrix is, IMHO, the coolest mini *ever* made. I've got mine almost finished too.
  16. Thanks, but that's not necessary. I souped up a substitute (out of the pots I said I wouldn't use, no less - ahhh, irony) so I'm good. Just wanted to let you know about the error for any more that might be getting packed and shipped. It's not really worth the trouble and cost to mail a replacement. I appreciate the offer, though.
  17. I've gotta get me one of those. Or five. She lookin' sweeeet!
  18. Dragon Snack makes a good point, so that's an option to keep in mind. The skintones in paint kits 2 and 3 are based on mixes and layering, and kit 3 is non-metallic metals. So if you don't already know layering the choice is how much you want to learn and how fast. Kit one will give you some good basics, kits 2 and 3 have fine instruction for more advanced techniques and are tons of fun. But the triad is easy to learn as well on its own, so you can get away without doing the skintone and cloth kit. (though I'd still personally recommend it). I'm on the non metallic metals now. Challenging. Looks ok, but I think I need more practice.
  19. The point was that if this guy is just getting started, and starting fresh, and on a budget, then he needs advice for quality and value. The priority expense should be good paint, because without this you got nothin'. Hence my recommendation for the three learn to paint kits. A great way to get a head start on MSP's. Sure, Kolinskys and W&N are way better than the pro brushes. But pro brushes are good quality for the price, and he's going to get a set of six in the kits. $5 more gets a 20/0, and the guy is off to a rocking start for under $100. If this guy had money to burn then yeah, get all the high end gear right away. I just don't see the sense in telling a guy who's stated he's on a tight start-up budget to toss six gratis brushes and fork out bigger money to replace 'em right away. A few months down the road, sure. But for a non-budget crushing start the pro brushes/kits are likely his best option, at least for the interim of just getting started.
  20. I just got around to paint kit 3 with the new MSP's, and there's an error in the paints included. The equivalency chart showing the MSP substitutions for the pro paints shows "9139, Blackened Brown". The kit actually does include 9139, but 9139 is Antique Rose not Blackened Brown (which is 9137). Given that this color is for the "dark leathers" segment of the kit I imagine Blackened Brown is supposed to be the correct one, as Antique Rose is rather paler and too pinkish to do the job.
  21. This is true, but it's not like the pro brushes are garbage or something. They are pretty good brushes. Given that it's what comes in the kits anyways and being on a budget... does it make more sense to spend $5 for an additional detail brush, or $60 to get a whole new set of Kolinskys right away? Obviously the kolinskys are the superior product, but why not use the pro brushes on hand first and then start replacing Kolinskys in?
  22. I'll add this in a second reply since it's on a slightly different part of the topic. You may also want to think about what you'll use as a thinner/flow improver and a palette. For the raw basics, you can get a bottle of Future floor wax that'll last you nearly an eternity. Pre-mix this with water in a smaller container and use it as your default thinner. If you go to the main reaper page and look up the craft articles there's one that offers more info on this, as well as basic ratios. To make things easier, I dumped out one of my spare MSP pure blacks and washed out the container (I stored the black in an old pro paint empty), and I use this for my thinner mix so I can keep my drop formulas nice and consistent. I personally use a much higher ratio of future to water, at 50/50. I think the average is only 10% future. I do this because I like every wash and coat to have that extra layer of protection from the future. I've found no residue build-up or negative side-effects, and by the time I'm done priming, painting, and sealing a mini they can endure all kinds of abuse on the table and still hold their paint. If your minis aren't seeing a lot of action this amount of future to water isn't necessary. Heck, it might not even be necessary in my case... but with clumsy players you can never be too careful when risking a hard-earned paint job! For a palette, I took the white caps from soda bottles, popped out the cap liner, and rinsed them out. I have an old testors brush handy, and I'll add my paint drops, the thinner drops, and then stir it up with the testors brush. I find this lets my mix stick around a bit and not separate or dry up as easily. For some techniques where you're trying to gauge transparency before application, you may want to use an empty clear blister instead (as describe in the craft article referred to above). It's up to you and your personal preference. A note on custom mixes: a notepad is handy, very handy. When I need a custom color I'll exploit the dropper bottles and mix drop by drop, writing down how many drops of each color go in. This is especially good for mixing custom hair or skin tones. Keeping this handy will save grief down the road if you ever want to replicate the "formula" again.
  23. I've only used the pro brushes so far, but they're pretty nice. For $5 a pop (bear in mind you'll get a selection of six in different sizes if you get the first 3 ltp kits - the small drybrush, 2 #0's, a #000, a 3/0, and a 5/0) they're of quite good quality for most work. I added a super fine 20/0 to make eyes and details easier (the smallest in the kits is a 5/0... not bad, but the 20/0 definitely saves hassle). At twice the price, the Kolinskys are a step up from this. (plus they have an even smaller 30/0 mmm... tiny) The difference, I believe, is in the quality of hair on the brushes. The way I see it, if you're just starting out you can get a lot of fine use out of the pro brushes. Once your skills have progressed to the point where you're looking for more, then check out the Kolinskys. You could certainly start out with the kolinskys right away, but I don't think you'd get as much out of them in the early stages as you would later when your skills compliment their finer quality. You'd just wind up paying double for pretty much the same early result. With proper cleaning after use and care, the pro brushes will serve you admirably for months of use. By that time, having gotten used to them and the properties of the paint in general as well as the techniques, you would be ready to bust out some Kolinskys and really put them to work!
  24. I've been eyeing those Kolinskys. I think I might add a few to my next order and give 'em a try.
  25. Hey, you're absolutely right. I even have a half bottle of mustard left in the fridge. Why, I could live like a king for weeks off blisters and mustard! *eyeing Marthrangul* Sure, I can find room for him.
  • Create New...