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buglips*the*goblin

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Everything posted by buglips*the*goblin

  1. A little bit of paint touch-up, some decals, and a quick paint of the crew and the Ho-Ro is done for now. This took a touch longer than expected, but it is the fiddliest of the lot. The other 4 should go faster, and I think I can get away with doing them in pairs. Will have to try, anyway, these were a side project while I was waiting on my British reinforcements and they showed up yesterday.
  2. As far as I can recall, this is the first time a Bones kickstarter has had a "soft close" after the initial PM close date. So in that sense, there isn't really much to gripe about since it all should have been finalized by the original date. However, I figure the takeaway from this is that if this is the way the PM closes out in the future (very likely) then we'll just have to make sure the information is up top, clear, and broadcast everywhere. That's likely to annoy some people, but probably better to annoy a few with too much repetitive info than make somebody salty because they couldn't find where it was said.
  3. Some things could be done better, just to make sure of things. This also includes some of us minions going over to check and make sure everyone's up to speed, which I didn't do. Sometimes it can be hard to know where an information gap might be if you have the info and think everyone has been given it. It never even occured to me to go check in over there to be sure everyone was fully aware.
  4. So after the wash dried, I gave it a lightish drybrush of the base Desert Yellow. This isn't really weathering so much as it is to help blend the camo together. It looks a touch overdone in the pictures, I presume because the tonk is right under the desk lamp, but it doesn't look like that in reality. That out of the way, I could paint the road wheel rubber with some trusty old Reaper Brown Liner, which meant I could finally attach the tracks, and now this beastie is ready for some serious clanking!
  5. I wouldn't recommend Tamiya thinner, mostly because the acrylic base is different so I don't know what that would do. I seem to remember some comments a while back that Tamiya thinner made MSP turn gummy. That was some years back, so my memory might be a touch off there, but given that such a result is exactly what you don't want going on in your airbrush then I can only recommend known, safe thinners. If you wish to try your Tamiya thinner, understand that you do so at your own risk. That said, there are three safe alternatives I know of and have personally used. You can thin it with just water. This will work fine, it's maybe just a touch suboptimal, but it will work and spray and do what you need it to. I used this to do my 1/350 scale Academy Bismarck with Reaper MSP. You can also use Reaper Wash Medium, but that's maybe a little pricey per drop. The best thinner overall, for price, ease of use, and reliability is Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. If you can do that one, it's the strongest recommendation.
  6. Reaper master series has flow improver already added in, so this usually means it will require less thinning than other paints. I would recommend starting at around 15-20 psi and a ratio of 1:1, see how that behaves. That should give you a baseline for correction to a bit thinner, or a PSI adjustment, as necessary. But it shouldn't take much to narrow in on the sweet spot, and when you find it that will pretty much be the sweet spot for the whole range barring a few odd specialty colours like liners and clears.
  7. I tidied up all the camo: And then gave it a bit of Secret Weapon Sewer Water wash. This is a reasonable analog for the old Flames of War "Rommel Shade" which was the only useful paint from that whole line. It tinted yellow very well, and Sewer Water works pretty much the same way. Since none of this tank has been coated in any kind of gloss, in order to get washes to behave a bit more and sink into crevices I like to add a few drops of vallejo airbrush thinner to them. Works a treat!
  8. Probably near on 100 infantry and some field guns, too. I've got US Army and 1944 Heer done already. Presently working on 1944 British and now I guess also my Japanese army. That'll mean US Marines to follow, then my 1944 Nromandy 101st paratroopers, then my 1939-1940 Heer, my 1940 French, then my Operation Bagration Soviets - and that's assuming I don't buy anything new during all of that.
  9. I was able to find enough references to cobble together some sort of camouflage scheme. This will probably be much easier when I do the Chi-Has, since there were so many more of them (only 10 Ho-Ro were ever produced). I thinned out some vallejo camo olive and outlined the green splotches, starting with the right side shown in the painting guide and then whatever remaining sides I had references for, and then matching them up between those two spots. I don't really think anyone will ever notice or care, or even think any of these references are necessarily accurate, it just makes me feel better to do it this way. Once the outlines were done, I quickly roughed in the patches. This lets met check that the overall pattern is working and make any last minute changes. This looks pretty good. The colours seem a touch overly vibrant and contrasting, but I know the wash and other work is going to tone them down a lot in next steps.
  10. I'll be giving them a wash and minor weathering for now. I've just had to build so much of the BA stuff in such a short time*, plus rebuilding the terrain, that I figured I could put off the extra work for now and revisit it later. Would probably be worth my time to get some additional kit for the process, too. *These Japanese tanks are part of my fourth army and tanks # 33-37 for the past year. I've been a touch busy, lol.
  11. Some hours of airsbrushing later, and everything has a nice even basecoat of Vallejo Desert Yellow. I'll be painting the camouflage by hand from this point, mostly because I don't really know how the pattern is going to go. I have to piece it together from fragmentary sources. It should still look good, since the overall directive for the camoufalge appears to have been "eh, just do what you want". I'll also be doing these one at a time now, so it seemed logical to start with the Ho-Ro since there's only one of them.
  12. Construction is complete. Because of the way most of the Warlord stuff is designed, I can do the tracks/wheels separately from everything else. Makes it pretty handy for airbrushing. So here's the pair of basic model Chi-Has: The two later-model Shinhoto versions: The Ho-Ro: And the Ho-Ro with crew temporarily attached (pretty crowded in there): Overall, pretty quick work to build 5 tanks.
  13. As I begin construction on the second of the pair of early model Type 97s, I wanted to share this clever little bit of design Warlord has done. As mentioned above, the two types of Chi-Ha and the Ho-Ro all share a common hull. This is not unusual for WW2 vehicles, there are many examples of this - especially with the Germans who added all sorts of modified kit to their Panzer Is, IIs, and 38ts. But what Warlord has done here is something I haven't quite seen before. So this is the basic hullform common to all these variants, and you can see two holes in the top of it: And there's an upper hull with two pegs in it for the short-barrelled chi-ha that fits into it like so: And there's a different upper hull on the sprue with two pegs that fits in like so for the Shinhoto version: And then the Ho-Ro kit has a resin piece, again with two pegs, that fits like so: And I thought that was a pretty clever way to re-use the bulk of the parts while accomodating the version changes to the upper hull superstructure.
  14. The conversation is edging towards spicy, don't let passions run away. To be specific, we don't want to see a pro/anti vaxx debate in here and criticism of government policies can easily slip into the political realm.
  15. So I have acquired a number of WW2 Japanese tanks for Bolt Action for no particular reason (i.e. because they were there and I could), and since it's been a good while since I posted any WIPs I figured I would do one for these. This represents a lot more tanks than you would find in a normal game of Bolt Action, so it's more of the Tank War variant. But that doesn't really matter to me because I play in my house instead of the LGS as a rule so I use the Bolt Action rules as a base starting point and then just do what I want. It's also probably more tanks than one might generally see used in real action, since they tended to be parceled out in dribs and drabs rather than used en masse. But anyway, all tanks good tanks and best tanks MORE TANKS. Since I have so many (the Ho-Ro, it should be noted, is actually also mostly a Chi-Ha with some modifications to make it an assault gun) then I will do 2 of them as the earlier version with the 57mm short HE gun, 2 as the 1942+ Type 97 Shinhoto ("new turret") Chi-Ha with the 47mm anti-tank gun. This will make an interesting mixed platoon if I ever decide to use all five at once, or will give me some selection options if I want to play with smaller points. Or at the LGS nearby, which I might try out. All my Bolt Action stuff is built in such a way that I can use it for my big modified games here, or convert to standard point lists for store play. All that said, here is the first of the pair of 57mm low-velocity early Chi-Ha tanks under construction: It's not quite as fiddly as expected, I really thought that spindly-looking rail as going to be trouble.
  16. The big things are nice cap pieces for the kickstarter, but will generally move pretty slowly at retail because of their high price tag. Combined, of course, with the fact that many interested parties would likely have nabbed one during the kickstarter itself. The combination of high retail price and lower base demand does logically make waiting on retail somewhat risky. Therefore my recommendation would be to get it now if you think you might want it. Disclaimer: I am not privy to any more information than anyone else is, but I would expect that at least some small quantity of the ship will eventually make a retail appearance. However, these would essentially be "beyond fulfillment extras" and once gone, it's anybody's guess when (or if) a restock would be ordered. Either way, the safest bet is to get one now.
  17. Pucker up, Sir Forscale, it's smoochin' time. Rools iz rools! Great work, Rhonda!
  18. Very nice! I'm subscribed to your youtube channel, actually. Good stuff there!
  19. I agree with this. In addition, if you take the whole body of 'correct colours' from sources over the years you'll find a lot of disagreement, and in some cases colours long accepted as fact that later turned out to be incorrect anyway. An example of this is that early german panzers were long thought to be dark grey overall, but were actually largely dark grey and chocolate brown - only in black and white photos this is difficult to detect. While dark grey and brown is probably more correct, dark grey overall is an aesthetic I like better and one that suits the more common expectation, so that is the one I pick. Probably an even more extreme of this is British North Africa "caunter" paint schemes. Inaccurate caunter: More accurate caunter: That's a very significant difference. The inaccurate caunter decorated the Matilda at Bovington Tank Museum, and everyone presumed that the Tank Museum ought to know, so it entered into the record as correct. Now we know it isn't. However, like the early german armour dark grey without the chocolate, my preference is definitely for the much jauntier blue, grey, and yellow-tan scheme so that is the one I will probably pick. In any case, when it comes to game pieces there's a fair bit of room to play with anyway - if for no other reason than it is usually impractical to expect somebody to purchase the same forces multiple times rather than re-use an existing force for different scenarios where the unit composition is suitable. Thus we have some camouflage patterns common for late war germans in the East that vary markedly from those in Normandy, and then come the fall and into the Ardennes we start to see the dotted ambush scheme. After this we see the "paint shortage" scheme with 'close enough' colours slapped on over bare oxide primer. If somebody chose to paint their Tiger IIs and other vehicles in dotted ambush, but then also chose to use them in the Late-August 1944 Cobra-Falaise action I think anyone who would nitpick it is probably just being overly pedantic. I did my Germans in Normandy style camouflage, and would happily use them in any engagement the equipment was suitable for. That force for Bolt Action cost me a fair penny, and I'd much rather have a different army altogether than buy 2 or 3 extra german forces just to paint differently. Anyway, those are some sexy tonks you've got there so it was fun to read through the thread!
  20. I bought another box of these for no particular reason, so I think I might build a second platoon for no particular reason. Your Landser are looking good!
  21. Reminder that tonight's Reaper Live is show #100 with 100 giveaways on Twitch! 6 Central Time.
  22. You have no idea how peculiar a coincidence it is, because how I came about to needing those bits was a twisty weird path. The British were the first army I started to build for Bolt Action, even before I had the rules. They were part of the random grab of things I got a Reapercon 2018, and at that time consisted of one infantry box and a bagged Cromwell. That being not much to work with, after I got the rules and compared them to all the Germans and US infantry I'd bought at the same time, I then decided to see what I had with those and what I could add to them to make two equal forces with some neat stuff. Whatever else I needed I'd source at RCon 2019. I did precisely that, and wound up with two 2200 point forces. Since they were now full, I abandoned the British to work on them. At some point I was buying something off Amazon and needed another item to hit the free shipping, so I added a Sherman Firefly VC because I knew eventually I'd need it. Eventually. Having worked out my US and German forces, it seemed that the thing to do would be to organize and build the British closely along the same lines of organization so that we could swap US for Brits for some variety. So I knew I needed more infantry and Cromwells. Well, a couple of months back I discovered an LGS had opened up pretty much next door and their store pics showed some Bolt Action stuff. I figured if they didn't have what I needed, they might at least be able to order the rest. Turned out he wasn't bringing in any more Bolt Action, but whatever he had he had on sale. So I got me a couple of universal carriers and some more Cromwells. The US Rangers were made with a 57mm AT gun, so in order to match I'd also need a 57mm (6-pound) for the British. I had an 8th army one I'd picked up randomly at RCon, so I figured worst case I might make do with that - only they're North Africa campaign and I don't have any of the paint I need for North Africa yet. So all this left me with a very peculiar set of leftover bits I needed, compiled together from random events over several years, and supporting an atypical force build. So when I got the Black Friday newsletter I decided to go and poke around to see if there was anything interesting, figuring at best I might find a British pack with a 25-pound gun or maybe a Vickers or even a mortar team. Probably with a Churchill or Sherman V thrown in. Maybe a Firefly. But definitely, certainly, absolutely not a package with everything I would want, because what I want is a weird and stupid pack of odd leftovers. Until I hit page 8, and there it was. I figure it was meant to be.
  23. Me three weeks ago: Now that I've finished my Bolt Action Germans and US Rangers, it'd be nice to finish off my British force. I need another box of British Infantry to fill out the platoon, a 57mm gun, one more Cromwell, a support group, and a sniper team would be nice. But it'll be a bit of a pain in the butt to do separately and probably I'll do it sometime after Christmas. Warlord Games Black Friday bundles: That's very nice. Also a touch creepy, but very nice. It's not often you find a package deal that is precisely, perfectly, exactly what you need without anything missing or anything extra.
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