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Sanael

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Everything posted by Sanael

  1. Sanael

    Fire, anyone?

    So, here's another one that's been half-finished forever...I originally posted him in a now-defunct WIP thread almost exactly one year ago. The character is Fortinbras Fellfire, a Firebrand of Sirrion (Dragonlance). Lots of fun with the metallics and the reds in this one; the red-gold armor and the red cloth both have at least nine different paint colors in at least 12 layers each. Having said that, I could probably still have stood to take the highlights up another notch or two! But here he is, and a pop-out so you can see his shield a bit better. C&C always good.
  2. Jen, what are those little boat-things? I've never seen those. <><><><><> As for me... Let's see...I have at least a dozen minis primed that I didn't even own before, several dozen primed that have been primed for a year or more, and near a hundred in blisters on the wall, many of which were not there last january. I think the fact that those blisters are on the wall is an accomplishment for '08, since I mounted the pegboard. I started painting (not just primed, but actual pretty colors) something like two dozen. I actually finished at least five and no more than ten, if my mental timeline is running right. And then there's the dragon, which is something like Talespinner's saga with Cinder, except it's Verocithrax, and I haven't been nearly as awesome about making a WIP, and my paintjob likely won't look nearly as spectacular as his. But that started in '08. And I helped build a few pieces of HirstArts terrain. Not my best year, but I've already finished 3 minis this year, so things are looking better!
  3. thanks for the replies, folks! Jabber, I've actually been pleased with how the "flow" has come back now that I've painted a few up...but the first couple definitely had their frustrations! Thanks for the kind words, Darzoni. I was really happy with Elori's eyes, too. Inarah, I'll see if I can put up a back view and maybe a brighter front view of Elori for you. It's hard to tell in the above pic, but her cloak is actually green!
  4. So I needed Finari for a game we were playing some time ago...she was to represent my PC, a fiery cleric by the name of Joanna "Hospice" Malthien. I started the mini, then became imbroiled in rehearsals, then holiday retail, and haven't actually played that game since basecoating the mini. BUT, I did post some questions about color choices and the like in the Painting Tips forum, and Anne and Derek were kind enough to give me some fantastic pointers, so it seems a shame to have just left her sitting on the shelf. So, with my six-or-so-month hiatus from painting over with and two quick minis under my belt, I decided to dust her off and finish her out. All in all, I'm pretty happy with her. Not my usual quality, I think, but not bad after not picking up a brush for a while. And, of course, since I haven't painted in a loong time, I wanted to do some freehand, so I'm glad the fireball came out pretty OK (and the one on her shoulder looks pretty close to the one on the shield, so that's good, too!). C&C always welcome. Joanna's a cleric in a Ptolus game, so the fireball emblem is what I imagine the symbol of Inurath to be...her domains are Fire and War. In the photos, it's hard to tell, but I tried to make it look like she's standing over the fresh grave of a fallen comrade, marked only with his sword and shield.
  5. Well, it's been at least six months, I think, since I painted anything seriously...so here are the results of a sudden flurry of brushstrokes. Neither piece is my best work, but given that each of them represent apx. 4-hr paintjobs, which is pretty fast for me at any time, I'm pleased. Now, why is Elori's skin so acne-ridden in that close-up? I did dust the mini before painting her, so it probably just means I've forgotten how to thin properly. Yay for relearning an atrophied skill! As always, C&C are completely welcome!
  6. This is pretty awesome, both idea and execution! The scenery on the base is incredible. Now I'm tempted to get this mini and recreate "Le Poisson" from Disney's Little Mermaid. I'd just need to find a decent crab mini...
  7. Where in Pittsburgh are you? If you're able to get into Oakland easily, I highly recommend Phantom of the Attic, Games Division (there's a comics division a block away) on Craig Street. Jeff is the Man in Charge, although Len, Danny, Anne, or any of the other folk there can help too. You'll want to talk to whoever is in the minis room, to the right of the front door. PotA doesn't stock Reaper paints, but they will order them for you, without shipping and so forth. They also host paint nights from time to time, so it's a good idea to get on their email list. Pittsburgh does have a small gaming community, but PotA is a very good place to look for people. Oh, and all my experience with the Hobbytown (I assume the one out in Robinson?) has been pretty shabby. Meantime, what do you play? I'm always on the lookout for new D&Ders.
  8. These two have been sitting on my shelf for a looooong time, primed and basecoated. I'm pleased with the conversions on them--you can see the original sculpts on the PP website. It's fairly obvious that I used Neroli's shield on the one fellow, along with a weapons pack sword; the other one has GS'd shoulder and spine spikes. As for the paint, I took about 5 hours to go from thin, splotchy basecoats to what you see here. Not too shabby, though I can already see things I'm tempted to go patch up (the silver mis-stroke on the top edge of the shield, for one ). C&C always welcome.
  9. Wow, thank you so much, both Derek and Anne! This is really so helpful (and makes me all the more sad I can't go to Reapercon and take color theory classes)! OK, so I think I'm going to go with something like this: Copper shoulder panels, with Bright green escutcheons. Her shield will have a bright green center. I'll put dark panels on the corset; here's the question now...I'm not sure about the silver idea, since the only silver on the mini will be the sword blade at this point. Will silver piping look odd, since all the other metal she's wearing is copper? Or will it tie the swordblade into the rest of the mini? My other option will probably just be the copper. Joshuaslater: glad you like the color-page. Looking at the mini, now that I've put down some basecoating, the metallic shield surface will distract, so I will go with woodgrain. Yay for unexpected freehand-ish stuff! Thanks again to everyone; this helps lots.
  10. First off, I'll say these are some fine looking bases. Really nice work with the cork. And ditto on Jester's base--wow! And now, my tuppence on the pumice paste...I use Vallejo's White Pumice, which came from the Warstore, here on the amazing interwebz. It's awesome stuff; I use it for most of my bases, and it's actually surprisingly moldable. It adheres well to cork and anything else with a bit of tooth right out of the jar, so it's easy to lay down, and it shapes in a lot of different ways, too. I've made little beaches with sand ridges with it, and built up some pretty thick dirt piles too. Speaking of little beaches, I can also recommend Golden Gel Mediums' molding paste for base work. It sculpts nicely into waves if you're going to paint opaque water. It's great for a lot of things, though; I used to build cobblestone streets out of GS, but the molding paste works just as well, is easier (to me) to work with, and isn't as likely to waste so much of itself (I always mix way too much GS). I recently put some straps on a shield with the stuff, and they turned out nicely, so even those roots on Nienna (which look fantastic, BTW) would have been easy to make with the paste.
  11. Toad- glad you like the skin. I'm a big fan of taking the term "greenskin" and trying to figure out what that means in the natural color spectrum ("black" skin is actually varying degrees of dark brown, as is "red" skin, and so forth), and so my goblins and orcs tend to have a lot of grey or khaki skintones. Thanks for the good words. Chungek- All my paints (or near enough to all) all Reaper Master Series. Garrick, here, has a bunch of different greys on his skin. Basecoat in RMS 9172 Stormcover Grey. Blocked in major highlights with 9173 Coldstone Grey, then started adding 9174 Icy Grey to the Coldstone to pull the highlights up. This will look very cold; I then glazed all the skin with 9085 Shadowed stone, which has a lot more greeniness to it. I then highlighted with a very thin mix of 9086 Stone Grey and 9087 Weathered Stone, adding more Weathered Stone until I could use pure Weathered Stone by itself for the highest points. You can see, I drank the Kool-Aid on the RMS triad concept. If you don't have RMS, I know there is an equivalency chart for other brands' paints somewhere in the Painting Tips forum.
  12. Yeah, I thought the same thing about him...definitely a rogue, but more a future/cyberpunk biker kind of rogue than a medieval-fantasy type. Definitely a fun sculpt, though. And Sascha is brilliant. BRILLIANT!
  13. Is this "enter as many times as you like, in any or all cats," or simply "enter as many cats as you like?" As an example: I have two Warlord minis nearly finished. May I enter both, as separate entries, in the WL category? This will be fun, since I've suddenly rediscovered the paint table!
  14. That is totally snazz-tacular! I might try to file down the top edge of the lightsabers, they look a bit jagged. But that's a perfect mini for this conversion, and those bolter-bits work like a charm! I'm gonna have to start doing that for some D&D elemental swords...could be a good time.
  15. Thank you, Anne! That actually really helps a lot. After consulting with some people in the non-web world, that shield interior was the biggest sticking point. Thanks again!
  16. OK...so I have a new PC I'm painting up a Finari for, and I'm a little unsure where to go from here. I'll start this by saying thanks to Reaper for posting the artwork for this mini as a wallpaper, since I was able to use that as a coloring page. Here's what I have so far: As you can see, Joanna's a redhead, so I'm going for a bunch of greens (and I've wanted to do a green and black combo for a while now). The escutcheons on her shield and shoulders are going to be her deity's symbol; I've already removed the Crusaders' crosses (as well as the one on the back of her hand; that will remain smooth.). I'm looking at green fabrics, so-dark-it's-black green for the leathers, and copper for the metal armor bits. For those unfamiliar with the mini, the back is primarily fabric and hair. So here are my questions, related to the reference points I've labelled on the page. Q1: Paulders/eppaulets; Obviously, the center is a black escutcheon. Should the surrounding material be the leather or the copper? I'm likely to use the fabric green for the cord across her collarbones. Q2: Shield interior; steel to match the sword-blade or copper to match the armor? I'm feeling that copper would be a bit much, but I'm not sure how well the steel actually would tie in? I figure the buckles on the straps will be copper, but that may also look odd if the shield interior is steel. Q3: corset piping; I'm really not sure at all what to do here. I suppose the easiest thing would be to make the piping greenish-black. As an alternative, I could make the whole corset leather, with the piping copper, but I really want more green in there. Shield face: option "A" gives us copper surrounded by a rim of steel..."B" would be the same green as the fabric with a rim of copper. Seems the shield face should also match the shoulder pieces? Holy symbol: Joanna worships a god of war; domains are war and fire. So I'm looking at a black field with either a simple flame (1) or a flaming sword (2) in the center. I'm open to variations on this theme, too, but I'm hoping to keep this freehanding simple.
  17. Neroli is one of my favorite Reaper sculpts...when the shield isn't present. I love the sculpt of the shield, but it gave me fits trying to figure out how it fit on her arm. It ended up in my bits box and now has a home on a skelly's arm. But here's my best guess: The square patch on the inside of the shield is the right height, on either axis, to fit inside the trim of the bracer on her wrist. That's how the Reaper photo is attached, near as I can tell. The shield in the photo is odd to me, in that it's strapped to her arm so the long axis of the shield is parallel to her forearm, which would give her less protective coverage once she bent her arm to hold the thing in front of her. It would, however, make it easier for her to punch someone with the pointy end of the shield. What makes a bit more sense to me (and fits the straps sculpted on the inside of the shield in my collection) is to attach that raised square into her bracer so the SHORT axis of the shield is parallel to her forearm, with the point of the shield pointing behind her. the straps on the inside of the shield then look like they attach just below her elbow, and the shield would cover most of her body when held in front. Either way, I'd suggest painting her arm and the inside of the shield, then dullcoting both, BEFORE trying to assemble.
  18. OK, OK, OK! I get it...I'll do a wash on the chickens! There is a bit more color on them than the pics show; I wanted the pale, clammy look of raw, defeathered poultry, but it really just looks like a thin fleshtone wash...I haven't put the final dullcote down, yet, so I can fiddle a bit. Thanks for the comments!
  19. Thanks for the kind words, folks. Sparrow's Tail, the character he represents is a druid, so I really wanted to connect him to the earth...I'm glad you seem to think I succeeded! Thanks. This is a really great sculpt; I'm a fan of Rackham's goblins, no question.
  20. Second in the pair of minis I wanted to get finished after my hiatus. I like the skin's color, although the highlights don't show as well in the photo as in the hand... I may have to redo those at a later date. I'm very happy with the gemstone, since it's the first one of those I've done. We'll see if I'm able to paint more often in the near future. Here's hopin'!
  21. So, it's been entirely too long since I've painted anything to speak of. Garrick, here, has been in the stage of "almost done" for several months, so I decided to finish him. There's a lot I like about him, not least of which the fact that his eyes have colored irises...and I painted those after a three-month hiatus. Hopefully, I'll post a few more things in the not-terribly distant future, depending on how eaten-alive I am when my next production goes into rehearsal...tomorrow.
  22. Reaper's Stormwing (might be the Sandra sculpt you referred to, though I wouldn't call it new) actually works well as a huge...if you compare the size of Stormwing's head to that of the DDM Huge Red Dragon from Giants of Legend, they're about the same...Stormwing just looks larger because he's rearing up on his hind legs. I have Stormwing on a huge base, and he looks right at home with the other DDM huges with which he sometimes shares the table. The size of the dragon's head, btw, is what I usually use to determine size category, since different poses can be misleading. This generally (not hard and fast) places Reaper's dragons as follows: blisterpacks=large (amber dragon, shadow dragon), small boxes=huge (Stormwing, Deathsleet), large boxes=gargantuan (Verocithrax, Gauth). There aren't too many minis out there that I've seen that work well for Colossal, based on the size of the DDM Colossal Red, but some of the larger gargantuans will work when you need them to. I also enjoy using the McFarlane Dragons figures as gargantuan or larger minis; they're quite impressive. As an aside, since I had trouble finding an appropriately sized base at the time I did up Stormwing, I just set a DDM huge on a sheet of plastic, built up clay around it, removed the mini, and used the resulting clay ring as a plaster mold for Stormwing's base. Worked nicely.
  23. Glad he arrived safe and sound, and very glad you like him...I suddenly have stage fright, since this is the first mini of mine that will be on display beyond my own home or the Reaper boards! Also, thanks for taking pics, since I forgot that step on this end. :)
  24. If you're looking for something that will work for a d20 or d&d-style game, check out WotC's DragonLance Campaign Setting for 3d Ed. Nearly the only worthwhile thing in that book is the rules for dragonback combat. Includes collision rules, turning at high speeds, switching between flight scale (long distances) and fight scale (typical 1"=5' grid), and so forth. Pretty good system, generally speaking. If you're talking about tabletop wargames (Warlord, WH40K, etc), then I'm afraid I'm of little help to you.
  25. Well, my only suggestion, and one that I've used on several orc and half-orc minis, is a bit greenish. But bear with me a moment. I use a variety of Khaki tones, ranging from very grey khaki (in RMS paints, we're looking at Terran Khaki) to a yellow khaki (such as Desert Khaki). The end result has a bit of a greenish tint to it, but if you mix a few things with it or basecoat differently, you can play up they greyishness. Really, I've always liked the greenish khaki tones (note, this is more like a tannish olive, not a primary green) because they strike me as more natural for a humanoid than either a bright green or a true grey. And if we're looking at halforcs, with a "half grey" look, then it makes even more sense; human skin tones range from dark brown through pinkish and into yellow. If you combine grey with yellow, you'll often get something fairly greenish. Again, not a Kelly green, but more like a beigey olive or a khaki. Without taking any genetics into account and just combining colors, if you start with a grey-skinned orc and a yellow-skinned human, khaki makes sense; so would just a straight brown. Orc and pink human, maybe you'll end up with something closer to lavender in color. With a darker human skin tone, you may get anything from a burgundy all the way through purple and into black. Just my tuppence.
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