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Everything posted by Sanael

  1. Glad he arrived safe and sound, and very glad you like him...I suddenly have stage fright, since this is the first mini of mine that will be on display beyond my own home or the Reaper boards! Also, thanks for taking pics, since I forgot that step on this end. :)
  2. If you're looking for something that will work for a d20 or d&d-style game, check out WotC's DragonLance Campaign Setting for 3d Ed. Nearly the only worthwhile thing in that book is the rules for dragonback combat. Includes collision rules, turning at high speeds, switching between flight scale (long distances) and fight scale (typical 1"=5' grid), and so forth. Pretty good system, generally speaking. If you're talking about tabletop wargames (Warlord, WH40K, etc), then I'm afraid I'm of little help to you.
  3. Well, my only suggestion, and one that I've used on several orc and half-orc minis, is a bit greenish. But bear with me a moment. I use a variety of Khaki tones, ranging from very grey khaki (in RMS paints, we're looking at Terran Khaki) to a yellow khaki (such as Desert Khaki). The end result has a bit of a greenish tint to it, but if you mix a few things with it or basecoat differently, you can play up they greyishness. Really, I've always liked the greenish khaki tones (note, this is more like a tannish olive, not a primary green) because they strike me as more natural for a humanoid than either a bright green or a true grey. And if we're looking at halforcs, with a "half grey" look, then it makes even more sense; human skin tones range from dark brown through pinkish and into yellow. If you combine grey with yellow, you'll often get something fairly greenish. Again, not a Kelly green, but more like a beigey olive or a khaki. Without taking any genetics into account and just combining colors, if you start with a grey-skinned orc and a yellow-skinned human, khaki makes sense; so would just a straight brown. Orc and pink human, maybe you'll end up with something closer to lavender in color. With a darker human skin tone, you may get anything from a burgundy all the way through purple and into black. Just my tuppence.
  4. Wow...that's quite an all-star lineup, there. I'll...uh...look forward to that one...eventually. But thanks for answering my question!
  5. On a whim, I went looking for Sophie on the Figure Finder, and discovered that the Reapercon Sophies are not part of the searchable index. Since "historical inclusion" of truly OOP minis is not only possible, but has actually been put into practice, why can't we see the Reapercon minis? Not that it's overly pressing, since I'm under no illusion that "historical inclusion" makes a mini any less OOP, but now my curiosity is up.
  6. VV- nice, this guy! Dig the blues, and I'm definitely a fan of the skintones. Keep it coming! My favorite so far? The rear view of that shirtsleeve! Nice texture on that. I find it funny that you're saying "time to pick up the brush again" after only a week, since I'm coming off a three month hiatus! Whee!
  7. We have a couple of water things... For single minis that will see tabletop use (think 1" bases), I use a couple of bottles labeled "water effects," one from Vallejo and one from Woodland Scenics. The Vallejo comes in a tub and the WS in a squeeze bottle...this is a lot like white glue in appearance, but dries clear and is much more moldable. I've used both for a variety of things from wave points to clouds, and the main reason I pick one up over the other is how much space I have to work with; the squeeze bottle gets into tighter spots more easily than spreading with a popscicle stick. I do find that the Vallejo is easier to sculpt into points, and I thinnk it shrinks less as it dries. Both layer transparently, so you can put down a layer, let it dry, and put down another layer for increased depth. There won't be a visible seam between layers, unless you paint the first layer before putting down the next. That can actually create some interesting effects, if you want to give the impression that there's more than just water (streaks of yellow or green floating downstream in a sewer, for example). For figs with larger, scenic bases, I use the above goo, as well as Vallejo's "Still Water." The still water is a thin polyeurethane, which will self-level and dries clear. It's great for large, deep puddles, but it isn't sculptable. It also has a tendency to shrink over time, so if you are filling a hole with it, expect the still water to peel away from the sides within a year or so. I avoid this effect by going over the top of the (completely dried) still water with sculptable water effects, making sure to put a bead around the borders of the still water. The other difficult thing with the still water is that it runs everywhere. If you have a pool enclosed by your base, this is no big deal--just fill the hole. But if you want your body of water to "run off" the edge of the base, you'll need some kind of dam around your edge. For smaller scenic bases, I'll just build up a few beads of Water Effects to create a wall before pouring the Still Water. For larger bases, or plinth-based minis, you can use tape and plasticard as though you were pouring clear resin (and the resin might be a faster way to go for water that's more than 1/4" or so in depth). Hope this helps a bit. Oh, yeah...there's another thing from woodland scenics that looks like little plastic beads, which you melt and pour. They're fine for BIG (think terrain boards) projects, but unweildy for smaller stuff, and they burn easily, which gives you sickly yellow water (great for sluggish sewage! Bad for babbling brooks). I'd steer clear of it.
  8. I say huzzah for converting the wee folk! There aren't enough halfling or gnome minis out there to get one "just right" without a little greenstuff! This guy looks great; I didn't even realize you'd added the hat until I read the post. I'll agree with Mad Jack, there, about the xbow strap, but I'm just glad you went to the trouble to make one (a number of conversions I've seen in Pittsburgh have magical floating equipment hovering on their backs). And, I've also seen plenty of rifle straps built with wider sections to help distribute the weight. I'm also a fan of seeing the bag and mace on the ground, as though he just set them down to look at the view and point out the pass through the mountains ahead, his navigational expertise actually concealing a desire to just set down some equipment and rest for a moment.
  9. Ron, I have to know where some of these places are...I don't live in Houston anymore, but I do visit my parents every so often, and the only gaming store I know about is the GW in the Willowbrook area (and the comic store in the Willowbrook mall, if you count it...it's F and L, but not so much G). My parents are in Cypress, so NW Houston. I do usually hit up the Westheimer area when I'm down, so anything in that vicinity would be easy enough to get to. My flgs experience outside Houston has generally been pretty good. My college town has a nice little comic book store that also caters to gamers, and can order things if you ask. It's not really specifically for gamers, but the guys there are quite friendly and eager to please. There's another sometimes-defunct game shop there that is exclusively for gamers; lots of dice, lots of minis, but they are often bankrupt and not open, and they smell funny there. And they're a bit clannish; I think the store got started just because someone wanted a place to game outside the dorms. Nacogdoches, TX, has (or had, last time I was there) a nice little shop called "ARKHAM comics & games" (right next door to "the ASYLUM arcade," so you can see how the signs read next to each other, ha ha), which was nice enough. I don't know if they had events or whatnot, but it seemed a bit cramped to set up anything big, and I don't recall any minis to speak of. Here in Pittsburgh, we have the great and wonderful Phantom of the Attic, Games Division. Comics Division is about a block away, if you need it. PotA has a HUGE selection of minis, mostly GW followed closely by Reaper, then Privateer Press, Flames of War, and a hodgepodge of Mag Ego, Animae, HeroFigs, Rakham, and so forth. They also do board games, etc. Their customer service is fantastic (ask, and they'll have it for you next week), and they have some kind of event ALL THE STINKIN' TIME. Magic, general GW madness, Painting nights, and so forth. They have two terrain tables downstairs that are frequently in use, three or four more BIG tables upstairs, plus two more rooms for general gaming randomness. Lots of fun to be had there. I'm just sad because the reaper minis are only there for painters and PC figs; they don't do a lot of business in the Reaper games. The other LGS here is interesting...we call it "the gaming store that time forgot," as it's very similar in appearance to the Wand Shop in the first Harry Potter movie. Cramped, dusty, and mildewed, with a creepy guy watching over everything, sometimes saying, "yes...that's the one for you...the game picks the player, you know." Well, OK, he doesn't actually say that, at least I've never heard him say it, but it wouldn't surprise me. The most current minis he carries are the old WotC Chainmail figures, and he has quite a few old Ral Parthas...we picked up some old Dragonlance minis there the first time we hunted through it all. The guys at this store are nice, but they aren't real interested in hosting events or that sort of thing; most of their business is online, and most of their product is board games. Neat place, if a little odd. Since he doesn't restock the minis ever, the guy in charge usually sells them cheap, too (I think we paid $4 for a Ral Partha Fizban and a Tanis that could probably have sold for $20 or so apiece on eBay and probably cost $3 apiece new).
  10. I'm glad to see a few non-bag posts here...I started off with a Crown Royal bag (I worked in a bar, and actually had two CR bags for each faction of DDM ((one for minis and one for the cards)), including the different neutrals, for a while after that game came out), but one fateful day my local comic shop owner asked me if I wanted to buy his stock of dice, since in three years I was the only one who'd ever purchased any. I gave him $10 and took home about eight times that worth of dice. So now I have a tacklebox full of dice. Singles all get tossed into compartments based on size, and sets (I have a different set for each PC I play) fit into the bottom of the box. This has been fantastic for bringing in new gamers, as I'm able to give them their own sets of mismatched dice (which is often helpful: "roll 1d8. The green speckledy one.") until they buy their own sets.
  11. I like it when big lots of random minis are discovered on eBay...twenty-three miniatures, some still in blister...we already have two of those three, and one of 19 others...but that one, right there, that one we don't have yet! Twenty or thirty bucks ain't bad for one new mini, right?
  12. Tara and Anwyn...there's one more, I'm pretty sure, that has the same legs and rear. Klocke has reused that behind several times. Not that I mind, since it's one of my favorite behinds he's ever sculpted, but there it is. So long as there's something unique about the mini, I don't mind the resculpt/recycle habit.
  13. Travel has always been part of life...since I was three, not a single year has gone by without at least one--and usually two or three, with a record of six-- round-trip plane ticket (and its concurrent use) coming my way. When my parents and I lived in Italy, we drove all over Europe; one trip took us from Naples to the toe of the boot, back up the Eastern leg, along the coast and eventually through Greece, ending in Istanbul. We drove a lot...we lived in Tampa for a while and made regular trips to Orlando; that 2.5 hours was a short trip. We made the drive from FL to Houston when we moved, too. Once I had my car...a friend of mine and I drove from Oklahoma City to Wichita, KS one day for no reason at all. We stopped in the Circuit City there, bought nothing, and drove back. It was a good time, but otherwise kinda strange. I went to college in MO; the 2.5 hours (or 45 minutes late at night) between Cape Girardeau and St. Louis was actually a commute for me for a while. I'd drive up there for an eight-hour shift, then drive back down every Saturday. I also routinely drove from Cape Girardeau back home to Houston...always straight through, no stops (although I had some friends at school in Nacogdoches, so I'd sometimes cut the trip short there). Three years ago, I drove from Houston to Las Vegas, with overnights in El Paso and Flagstaff, then after a few weeks in Vegas, drove down to LA, up to Napa, then back to Houston with overnights in LA, Phoenix, and El Paso. That was a fun drive; Nissiana was in on the LV-LA-Napa leg of that. Then I moved from Houston to Pittsburgh. That drive went something like Houston-Nacogdoches-Hot Springs (stayed there for three days visiting family)-Cape Girardeau (for a week, gaming with college buddies)-Pittsburgh. Cape to Pgh was a loong haul, especially those boring parts between Illinois and West Virginia. That trip was especially fun, since my hood was bouncing off a crumpled front end on the way to Hot Springs, and my dad's old mechanic fixed the problem by looping a chain around a pole, hooking both ends to the front end, and backing the car up. Popped everything back into shape, sure, but I thought my car was gonna fall apart the whole way to Pgh. The Cape Girardeau-to-Nacogdoches trip almost always involved gaming on either end. For a while, we did a half-hour drive to a gamiing group every week, but that kinda died off. I frequently drove from Houston to Austin, San Antonio, and Oklahoma City when I lived in TX...had I known about Reaper at the time, I would have driven to the Asylum pretty frequently, I bet.
  14. Jon looks pretty good, there! That's certainly a better job than I could do, sculpting a face. And I think you've pretty well nailed the Black Watch clothes. Ghost is definitely a bit small, but I can forgive that, since that mini has the appropriate "grr" factor. I likes!
  15. I actually own a loupe with 8x magnification. It's wonderful for looking at the tops of heads, the bottoms of feet, and the tips of swords. Problem is, entire minis don't usually fit inside the collar of the loupe to get into the range of proper focus. And even if they do, I can't get a paintbrush in there. Most loupes I've seen, even the ones that don't have a collar, are designed with a very close focal point--the object viewed needs to be within an inch or so of the lens if you want crisp, undistorted focus--so there's not much room for your face, the lens, the mini, and a brush. Plus, if you're using a less expensive model, one of your hands is taken up holding the silly thing. I do use mine for looking at detail on an unpainted mini, if I just can't see something well enough to figure out what it is otherwise. Usually, though, the optivisor works pretty well. Plus, we recently got a magnifier-light at Sharper Image that has 5x mag, and LED lights if you need them. It's small, has a broad focal point, and stands on its own. Pretty spiffy. I think Nissiana spent $30-40 on it.
  16. Sanael

    Dozen Townfolk

    These are really beautiful pieces...I think my favorite is actually the fellow with the odd little slouchy cap (second from left). I love his expression and the orange on him. I'm also enjoying making up the story to go with the picture. Fun to be had, there. "The townspeople, distracted by the exotic beauty and her companion's illusions, were oblivious to the three men emptying the town's coffers right behind their backs. The clergy, despite their best attempts to exorcise the deviltry from town square, were powerless to help." There's a plot hook and a half. All kinds of fun things going on here.
  17. Sanael


    Hey, I wouldn't call it a nitpick...nitpicks are annoying, and usually inconsequential. This was neither.
  18. Sanael


    yeah, if this had been a PC mini, or a definite display-piece, I would have put some layered skin tones into the ears, hands, and tail, but as it is I just needed him done. You're right, though, about the thin wash of the fleshtone...it would have done great work towards lightening those areas, and wouldn't have taken but a moment. I may actually go back and do that, since I still haven't dullcoted him. Thanks for the suggestion!
  19. Sanael

    Phase Spider

    yes! pattern spider! You're absolutely right! Thank you.
  20. A few updates, at long last...tell me what you think. Comments, critiques, etc. all welcome, as usual. Garrick is starting to see the finish line...worked on his robes a bit, and I'm happy with where they're going. Still need some smoothing on some of those layers, and now his skin is just awful (somewhere I "leveled up" on layering, and I painted the skin before that happened. Go figure). But once that's done, he's finished. And basing. Thalassa is getting there, as well. I really like what her thigh (upper leg, her left) is doing, so now I need to add that lighting into the rest of her flesh. The photo really helped me see it; one reason I like the WIP, here. Korras now has hair, and some shaded metallics on his spearhead. And here's the garden path I'm working on for the guildhall. Mostly just grass, dirt, and unpainted stonework right now. Pay no attention to the apparent cesspool...eventually, it will be a carp pond.
  21. Sanael


    I call this a quickpaint because I don't really feel like it's a "speed" job. But all told, it took less than 2 hours from bare primer to ready-for-dullcote. I don't normally paint GW, but I got this guy and his pack of rats on sale, and I needed a rat-man for our Ptolus game. So I took him to my FLGS paint-night and got 'er done. Pretty happy with the blending, given the time it took to paint. I think I'm getting this whole "painting minis" thing.
  22. Sanael

    Phase Spider

    I actually painted this guy a long time ago, about three or four months when I finished him. Originally, it was some kind of space spider or some such, I keep thinking the blister called it a "black spiral spider," but that's a Werewolf thing and I don't think anyone made minis for it (especially not in the 80's). And of course I don't have the card any more. Anywho, my favorite verminish critter from the MM1 is the Phase Spider, so here it is.
  23. Overall, this is looking really nice. I think that NMM is spot-on, and the haft of the scythe is looking really nice in the lighting effect. Now, I haven't done any serious OSL myself, but I've been looking at a lot of examples, trying to wrap my brain around it first...Overall, I think your OSL looks good, but I'll agree with the "gooey" look on his robe. The stuff nearer the lantern is going to be brighter....if the lantern is giving off green light, a bright bright green or a yellowy green, or if the lantern is giving off white light through green glass, bring it up to a yellow or even white at the closest points. Like I said, take that with a grain or two, but it's what I'm seeing. Like I said, it's some nice paint you've put on this one; the lantern itself looks fantastic! The mottled lightsource effect looks great. I'd love to see the back of this guy, too.
  24. These are great! I love the first one; the knight looks like there was some definite planning involved about color choices and locations...a nice "I've been wading through blood and mud all day" kind of look. I likes. Poor Tsuko...he just had a fight with a prismatic ooze! He won, but none of the other monks will take him seriously anymore. Thanks for sharing!
  25. some very cool stuff, there. Congrats! And I may have to place another order with CW...I got several of their first batch of minis, but most of the stuff they've put out I haven't been as interested in painting. This dwarf, though, is darn spiffy! And I want the coatl, too.
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