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Everything posted by Sanael

  1. There's a bronze chimera in an archaeological museum in Florence that looks a lot like this fella. Any relation? I know this is a fairly common "look" for the chimera in ancient artwork. It's a nice piece, and your sculpt is very good. I have to admit, I'd prefer to see the goat a bit farther forward, more out of the shoulders (the body has more strength to carry the weight of that neck), although I do like the "ancient" along-the-spine configuration, rather than the more D&Desque side-by-side configuration of heads. Again, the body seems more likely to be able to support weight that way. Beautiful musculature. Although I think the lion's jaw is open a bit wide for a normal lion, if you're going for a belch of flame, I think it looks great...a creature like that would want to unhinge its jaw for the purpose. And I do love me some real-world anatomy on fantastical critters. Overall, a very nice sculpt.
  2. That is truly gorgeous. Those leaves are stunning.
  3. Hey, no probalo! I'll be interested to see how the lionfish conversion comes out; good luck!
  4. It's surprisingly resilient. It's what I use for a LOT of my pinning, now (though for pinning I use something thicker than what we're talking about here). Actually, depending on the length you need, you may find you have trouble getting it to bend the way you want it to. Really short pieces will tend to be straight, and stay straight.
  5. My PM also sent. Also, a question: some of us have fairly obvious aliases, and some of us are pretty easy to figure out by checking around the Reaper site or personal websites, but would it be possible (and amenable to all involved) to ensure we get both the RL name and address, AND the screenname of our recipients? That hasn't always happened in the past, and that kind of info makes it easier to take a look at who we're painting for if we don't already know them. Just curious what others think. And, CBP, thanks for doing this yet again! These are great fun!
  6. I would highly recommend guitar strings for your spines...that will let you get very thin, which will let your GS buildup bring you into scale with Pearl's existing fin structure. I'd get a tiny pin vise bit, one that's 1/4-1/2 the width of Pearl's finbones, then go to a guitar shop and ask for string to match. They'll have calipers to measure accurately. Getting this thin, it won't be an issue, but you want single wire strings, not the coiled/twisted kind. You'll likely spend more on the bit than on the string. As for GS or brown, I don't know. I've never worked with the brown, and I haven't had to do much thin work with the GS. Oh, a word re: guitar strings: hold loose ends away from yourself as you cut them, and better still, hold them steady with pliers...otherwise you'll discover why explosives wrapped in fine-guage wire make such nasty grenades. The string will jump when it clips, and you don't want to end up with it in your fingertip or eye.
  7. That's hilarious. Jester should make that last pic his avatar.
  8. Sanael

    Pirates 3

    just returned from seeing this one...I still can't stand Knightley, and I wish Bloom would start showing some decent acting chops (unlike Knightley, I think he's capable of it), but overall this installment is not as good as the first, but hand and fist better than the second. Some really fun twists and turns here, excellent special effects, Jack the Monkey is awesome as always (as are Pintel and Ragetti, not to mention their Royal Navy counterparts), and Geoffrey Rush is one of the most amazing actors out there. I thought the pacing was perfect except for one moment that lasted about five seconds too long (b/t Will and Liz, you'll know the one)...and be sure to stick through the credits. Jack's back! Yay!
  9. when I was very young, we actually had a TV with push-button channel switching...you pushed in channel one, and it stayed in until you pushed another channel...the buttons were made of bakelite. It wasn't very good for modern TV watching, since the reception was poor at best, it was B&W, and it only had 10 channel buttons. It was pretty spiffy, though, since the whole thing was in one of those big TV cases made of wood. I don't recall if it had the various knobs for H-hold and V-hold, etc. I bet those bakelite buttons would do some damage on Antiques Roadshow. But they're long gone, now.
  10. Man, that's some nice green on that tiny thing! Nice detail on the quiver, too. Funny, but I was taking scale from the paint drops on the worksurface before I saw the pic of the base! Little guy, isn't it?
  11. I know the boneyard is behind in updates, but is it possible to get a part number to order the wings for the pegasus? I assume it would be 3096A, B, C, or D... And, of course, if that number isn't recognized by the shopping cart, how do I make it part of a larger order in the asylum?
  12. awesome! Although I'm quite happy with the current setup for my craft-room, I envy you the ability to build your own, as part of the actual structure of the room. Keep us posted; this should be fun to see!
  13. Well, since Nissiana is at work, I'll pick up the ball here and show pics of our plaster workstation. To be fair, she does most of the casting and building, but I know enough of what goes on here to give the tour. The casting station is built on a small folding table from BB&B. On top of the table is a vibrating platform, made large enough for six or so molds by sticking a computer tower side panel on top. The vibrating platform is great for knocking air bubbles out of the plaster after it's been poured. To the left of the table are the various mixing cups and so forth...although you do have to be fairly precise with Merlin's Magic, Nissiana has put together a set of cups for measuring...there's one cup with markings (fill plaster to the first line, then water to the second), but the markings are accurate only when you put a second cup inside the first...that way, the marked cup never gets plastery and gross, never needs replacing, and so forth. Above the table is a shelf with baskets of molds, then some drawer units from Home Despot full of cast bricks. Out of frame is the food dehydrator we use to accelerate the drying process. On the other side of the room is the building/painting station for plaster (yes, that means there's another paint station for pewter! You can see it in the workstation pictures thread). This is an old IKEA drafting table, dropped to a flat surface (a table with a rake is great for technical drawing, but not so good for building castles), with a variety of fairly self-explanatory objects strewn about...the piece in the middle is a companion for the entryway, a garden courtyard that I'm landscaping right now. The shelving unit to the left is the in-process shelf of shame...there are many, many more bits of pewter with primer or less in drawers elsewhere, but what's here are actual "current" projects, most of which have at least a dab of paint on them.
  14. "With Permission," she calls it...harrumph. Actually, I primed her after she was swiped from my shelf. Since I'm such a nice guy. I'm pleased to report that, in the intervening months, Nissiana has since learned how to prime her own minis! What you guys can't see in these photos is how much Pearl really pops on the shelf, here. In the hand, this mini is absolutely spectacular...the blue veining truly looks irridescent.
  15. Hallo and welcome! As for your pics...I'll agree with the need to get rid of the flash, as it has washed out a great deal...but, the overall quality of the picture is much better than the original post. As for your minis...what I will say is that the inside surface of the shield looks really superb! The fade and grain on that wood planking is really nicely done, and the metallics on the shield are looking nice. I like what you've done with the ogre's face, what with the jewelry and the bits of scars and scrapes...now I think would be a good time to work more with some thinner paints and some layering here and there to bring up the highlights and shadows on his musculature. You're looking at about the same asthetic I had when I started painting, but once you make that breakthrough from simple drybrushing into a more layered approach to shadows, things really open up. Looks good, so keep 'em coming!
  16. Tachyons! The deadliest deadlies in the multiverse! You've hit the nail on the head, SOldcorn...the trekkies take the universe. Done and done.
  17. Someone mentioned batting phasers with a lightsaber...I don't think a jedi could stand against an away team armed with phasers, as phasers can produce a steady burn...the first phaser beam comes in, the jedi blocks and has to hold that block as long as the phaser burns...yes, the jedi can likely sense if the redshirt firing that phaser is going to move, and hold the lightsaber accordingly, but as soon as a second phaser fires, that jedi is toast...a straight line of limited length cannot be positioned to block every possible point at which two different beams might hit that jedi. Yeah, the jedi can jump around, but even then he tires eventually. Against five or six federation soldiers armed with phasers, it's a losing proposition. Especially since phaser fire doesn't do much to tire the one firing it. Throw in force push abilities and so forth, and I think a jedi might survive the first few encounters, but the feddies will learn pretty quickly to spread out a bit more. If we stop talking federation, and start going with a more aggressive race like the Klingons or Romulans, then I think the jedi order is in serious trouble...especially since nobody in the SW universe seems to be much of a tactician until you break out GA Thrawn. What I'm not sure of is whether a Klingon batleth could block a lightsaber. If it can, a melee Klingon/Jedi combat would be up in the air for me...really awesome fight, ultimately coming down to martial skill (Klingons are stubborn and strong enough that I think force push would be a negligible advantage to a jedi); if the lightsaber cuts a batleth, then the Klingon would die with "dishonorable" on his lips. I got nuthin' to say on the matter of ship-to-ship battles. Aside from that a combined fleet of B-wings and TIE interceptors would eat anything-ANYTHING-for breakfast.
  18. This is one of the things I love about children.
  19. yeah, those horns and hooves look pretty spiffy! How does that greeny ooze on the base work?
  20. I was watching these the other day! this stuff is great! Some of these youtube people are just crazy.
  21. Funny, I was just talking about this last night. GW has a very interesting set of priorities, from what I can see. First off, their primary target is tabletop wargamers who end up painting hundreds of figures, at least...so, although I have seen many very nicely painted armies out there, no single figure in the army is painted to an exacting degree of detail, so if a buckle is only half-sculpted or there's a bit of a break under an arm, it's not likely to be noticed. Obviously, I'm talking about armies-for-use, not armies-for-paint-competition. But, what many of us Reaperfans would see as unforgivable (bad molding, lazy sculpting) will still sell for GW. GW is also all about gettin' em young...new, young hobbyists don't need or expect perfect and beautiful sculpts, so long as it looks pretty cool, because they've never seen what else is out there. Now, GW does have some stuff I really like for some purposes. I'll never like their humans-their proportioning style doesn't work for me--but their monster-types often aren't bad...but, I would rather go with a company that will give me consistently high-quality SCULPTS and, just as important, MOLDS. Reaper's greens look awesome. This translates to awesome minis, because they aren't lazy about moldmaking, dividing minis, and so forth. GW doesn't seem to pay much attention to cracks in the mold line. Which actually also makes sense because they're all about the converting...if you're adding 28 severed orc heads to that ogre's belt, the 1/8" gap between thigh and hip won't show up so badly! Or, from a more pessimistic capitalist point of view...GW makes greenstuff. GW makes molds requiring greenstuff. It's all part of the same machine. I dunno. I'm rambling.
  22. No kidding! Continuity with the stories of past decades aside, Straczynski's Spider-Man is one of the most incredible things ever. He's talented and somewhat brilliant, and although some of the things he did when he started really shook things up (the totemic stuff, with Ezekiel and Morlun), they really added to Peter's character. I pretty much hate the whole "Civil War" concept of Spidey unmasked, but Straczynski handled it beautifully and made it seem less like a Marvel plot for revenue. The movies have been fun (haven't seen 3 yet), but they've been written with an eye toward "butts in seats" rather than a true love of the characters, it seems to me. Their saving grace (thus far) is that Raimi and most of his cast have been taking the concept seriously. As for writers, I wish Staczynski, Whedon, Lee and a select few others could get together and save Marvel from itself. That would be nice.
  23. that freehand is really incredible! The waves are truly stunning, if you ask me...really well-done. The no-dachi bearer's armor is very well done, too. I think the only things I have to critique here are really the sculpts on the courtier (that unibrow is disturbing!) and dragon (why the axe-tail?)...the painting is pretty!
  24. I actually do two things with metallics, depending on what kind of object I'm painting. For swords and weapons, I tend to use metallics as though they were normal paints. This makes for a fairly fast, simple paint-up that gets the point across (ha, I kill me) fairly well. The one trick is to come back to it after everything has dried and look at it in different angles to the light, so you can actually see how smooth your layering was (metallic paints will play tricks on you!). For armors, and for more "uber" weapons (if I were painting Cloud's Buster Sword, for example), I've started using a not-much-slower-but-ultimately-cooler method of wet-blending and damp-not-wet brushing. I start with a triad of metallics, one of my favorites with the MSP is Adamantine Black/Scorched Metal/Old Bronze (a really spiffy dark brown metal...like tarnished brass). Put a puddly band of the darkest on the surface, then a puddly band of the mid, then the light, all in a row. Use a wet brush to drag each row into the next, swishing it around until you have a smooth gradation from dark to light. Once you have this, you can go back through and touch up highlights and such, maybe throwing a little darker spot here or a brighter spot there. Take a look at my Feb. 11 post here. The bell, as well as the scytheblade on that same mini, were done up in this wettish fashion. It gives a pretty smooth transition from shade to shade, rather than the comparatively stark system of highlights and shadows on, say, a cloak. Hope that helped more than it confused!
  25. I love those colors, and you've got some great camo patterns there. I'll echo the dark wash, and then you'll be set!
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