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Everything posted by Splat

  1. So here is a question for you Reaper Paint Production folks. Are there any plans to perhaps create a Flat (i.e. Anti-Shine, Gloss and/or Satin figure coatings to go with the sealer that is out there. Don't get me wrong, the Army Painter Anti-Shine is great and Vallejo makes some handy ones too. But. I'd like to have all these things from my favorite paint manufacturer as opposed to having to dip into other folks lines. Thanks.
  2. Thanks for that idea. I was using the Slate (which I've been told Military Blue is quite close to ) as a component for lacquered armor on some Confrontation figs. On stonework having a mismatch of shades doesn't bother me so much. Natural wear and weathering varies, so no problem. On a unit's armor, that's a different story. I just like consistency on my units. All the same it's the Stone Grey (which might come close to Soiled Grey) that I grieve for as well. For light colored rock it (ummmm) rocks. Thanks for the hint about the Slate color though. It is appreciated !
  3. Being one of the folks who loved Slate I'm bummed about it's disappearance, along with Stone Grey (a great stonework base color) , Griffin Hide and Buckskin (Lions of Alahan armor colors), Hawkwood (great barbarian flesh), Slime and Emerald Green Ink (Slime washed with EG Ink and drybrushed back on makes for a nice easy orc skin ala GW), and a few others, like Bloodstone. But at least the line is still around. I'll just have to adjust, sell off the armies that I painted with the old colors and do new ones so the colors all match across the board.
  4. A lot of wargamers paint in this method, and if you have a chance to look at something like an old White Dwarf or a rulebook from the late 80s and early 90s that had color pictures in it - you will see this style of painting. The biggest benefit is that with the one coat coverage, you can work a lot faster. RMS and Vallejo paints are a bit on the thin side - and many of them do not provide one coat coverage unthinned. The added time spent waiting for paint to dry and applying a second coat doesn't sit well with the concept. For example 3 weeks ago I painted up 217 members of the 7th Cavalry using these methods in a single weekend (Custer's Last Stand). Although I modify things a good bit...the principles remain the same. As a way to paint up units for wargames, or even paint for games where you just want to cruise through the figures and put nicely painted miniatures on the board - old school is the only school. The other way to look at the style is realize it is optimized for the 'two foot' rule. Since you will tend to see the miniatures on the table at an average of two feet, the 'artistic' method of blending and shading is bypassed and simple contrast shading and washing is used. The end effect is very similar when viewed at normal wargaming distances - and the effort is much reduced. For making display pieces there is nothing that beats the subtle shading and effects you can get with the mixing/blending/etc. of the current mode of painting. For decent looking miniatures in a lot less time - old school paint/glaze/wash/highlight works out quite nicely. IMHO at least.
  5. I can tell you that for a fact we have an equal split of Reaper paint users between MSP and RPPs. Personally I like the RPPs. Not only because dropper bottles have conspired to hate me, but because my style of painting makes use of the qualities of the RPPs more useful to me than the MSPs. I'm not a 'one color, wash and drybrush' painter by any stretch of the imagination, but my work is respectable. It's just not award winning professional artist quality on the average. I can say this for a fact - If I'm looking to paint a single highly detailed, display sort of miniature - the MSPs are nice. Being able to more easily duplicate mixed shades, the thinner formula to layer and what not makes them shine. But if I'm painting up a unit for a wargame the RPPs are much better. The better coverage and predictable wash and drybrush characteristics make them far better suited to that sort of application. If you want to pain the unit with any sort of speed at least. Not to mention I find it easier to teach someone to paint when they can simply dip into the jar and paint as opposed to dollop a drop out of a bottle, burp it, clean the tip before moving on. I'm not saying that droppers or high quality paint are bad - but there most certainly is a market for the RPPs... at least at my shop. RPPs have about 2/3's the sales rate of the MSPs - but they are still a consistent seller. I am glad to see the line will remain. I can't wait to see what the new paints look/act like so we can get restocked with colors that will (hopefully) remain around forever and my customers won't be in limbo about this any longer...
  6. I've experienced the 'moldy' or 'rotten' RPPs and even Ral Partha paints. It tended to happen with the greys and whites and smelled... well moldy and rotten . They stunk in an earthy way. In fact I just ditched a Dragon White, Stone Grey and Truesilver just a few days ago. If I find some more - I'll let you know, and if you want it for testing... it's all yours I like the RPPs better than the MSPs. Personally I have issues with dropper bottles. We hates them (he says in his best Gollum voice). Regardless of the number of taps, bumps, dabs, etc. I can never get them not to 'burp' and leave a gob of paint at the top, or worse, have the gob of paint solidify and clog the darn thing. And I grew up with the thicker paints (started with PlooyS Floquil and then Ral Partha) - and they suit my style and the way I learned, as a humble hobby painter, to crank out figures. I do like the triads idea and some of the MSPs, but overall I am glad beyond words that the RPP won't go away.
  7. What I did for my Crimson Skies planes , which works fairly well, is to get a lighter shade of the color and highlight so the edges are a shade lighter and it transitions to the color a little way in. Then if you want to add little artifacts you can do the same with colors half a shade lighter or darker in random areas. For me it gave a lot of the flat panels a look that one sees on aircraft , the edges looked to have depth abd a little random wear on the panels themselves. For a large flat area... it might be tougher.
  8. What kind of wash have you used ? If your using black ink it might be an issue. Take some 'magic wash' (10 parts H2O and 1 part future floor wax) and add enough black paint to get a nice wash. Put that on and see what it does. I'm guessing your wash isn't thin enough and doesn't have any surface tension remover - so it's just muddying up everything. My 2 cents. Hopefully it'll help. I would have said it had to do with your primer, but if you've sealed the primer before washing it... the only other thought would be to let the whole thing dry 24 hours after priming and again after sealing.
  9. You should be fine doing that... i.e. adding sand into it (or even gravel) to get a rougher texture. Back before everyone was finding all the spiffy art store mixes (way back in the late 80's & 90's) we used to just toss sand and/or gravel into paint and go from there. Worked fine, held fine, and if you were really, really worried you could always add a bit of white glue to give it more body. Of course the glue might be more important nowadays since paint it going closer and closer to having no body as opposed to the thick stuff we used to have. The stuff you pick up at Home Depot (or other home improvement stores) to toss on to wet paint to make the area non-skid is great. Barring that borrowing a cup of sand out of the beach or from a construction site works well too... you may want to clean it first though.
  10. I thought Elven Green was close to Forest Green - Shamrock (RP) and Emerald are pretty close. I think a little Linen White got it right on... Wasn't Tan one of the Horizon colors line RP did ? I don't recall exactly what I did there - but I know that Hill Giant Brown was a replacement for some of my lighter brown/tans - sometimes with some while, sometimes with Dove Gray added to get them the right shades. Sorry, it's been a while since I needed to be matching those colors against each other. I kinda 'transitioned' the colors across units I was doing and then subsequently sold the figures as the game systems I was playing went under and there were folks willing to pay crazy amounts of cash for the minis... Then I moved on to other games and just used the newer paint line to paint... I wish you luck finding the matches... although IWM does still sell Shamrock - you just need to get it online from them.
  11. Most of them. There are a number of them that don't exist in the master line (Hawkwood, Stone Grey, most of the greens I like among others) that I used in the past and not having them would really, really bum me out... as well as a lot of my customers. We tend to sell an equal number of RPP and RMP right now and it would be a minor tragedy to have them go. If I was forced to pick exact colors I'd have to rattle out a list of about 30 colors I use (and we restock) all the time. I've painted for around 25 years and my style is not that of the current batch award winning painters. The MSP line is nice, but not my cup o' tea, ignoring the technical issues which seems to have plagued it. I love the Pros since they come closest to the old Ral Partha paint line (and subsequently the old Polly S line) from when I started. There you have it - a baised opinion from me.
  12. Sorry to contradict - but I think it depends on the particular store. I say this only because wandering through the Hobby Lobby out by us in search for columns and snow covered trees for scenery I came across some Leow/Cornell synthetics which were in good shape and very inexpensive. Not the best in the world, but nice for one who likes the stiffer sort of brush. Don't be afraid to poke around on your own until you find something that looks good. Just realize that oft times you get what you pay for... so that sale brush may be on clearance for a reason... Grab brushes your comfortable with and have fun !
  13. Drat, darn and Drat. I just went to get more as of last week so I'm betting I'm going to get oldies too. ... now to make lame apologies to my customers for 23 more days until I can order the new ones. Thanks for the update though !
  14. I was doing the drop or two, but a full drop into the small amount of wash I had didn't seem to frost it... it seemed tro just lighten the color - but neither here nor there. Now I know why. About how many drops to a bottle ? Does it vary according to the color ? So far I've got about 36 drops in my Blackened Brown - it hasn't seemed to effect it at all - neither frosting, chalky nor any of the shiney going away at all.
  15. @ Eastman - Thanks. I tried to do a search on antishine additive and the number of results that came up was large enough to preclude skimming.... Chalky is one thing. Last I knew chalky was a _texture_. Changing the _color_ of the paint is what concerned me. Hence my question for everyone - if I got a bottle that had a odd mixture or if I had messed up using it. @Beowulf - I am not worried about the final result being glossy, but if the paint I'm using it shiney/glossy it makes it harder to use layers of washes - as they won't 'stick' very well to the glossy surface. Testors Dullcote usually kills any gloss left on a figure when I'm done without any issues.
  16. So, I bought the anti-shine additive hoping to make some of my shiney paints a little less so. I was trying to figure out why my highlights were _way_ to light. So, on a lark a put a drop on my palette, spread it out and let it dry. It's white. Very flat white. But not clear at all. In fact it's almost darn opaque. Anyone else try it yet ? Anyone have an idea how to use it without messing up the paints color ? Am I using it wrong - I figured adding a drop to the color on the palette was the way to go - but now I'm not sure... Anyone ?
  17. Thanks ! With the amount of threads being so large - and a search for paint sample / paint chip returning 12 _pages_ of results each having multiple pages to it... it will help a lot having the description updated. Thanks. (or at least that's my excuse for missing it) Regardless - Happy New Year Everyone ! PS - any news on the expected 'soon' for the new Casketworks ?
  18. I missed entirely the fact it was pinned there. Of course it might have had something to do with the fact it says it only goes to 9126 - but has been updated from there. Darn it, I guess those little thread description things _lied_ to me ! (hrmph) Thanks for the tip though !
  19. Hey guys! With the new RMS paints out (hurrah) I was hoping you might be able to point me at a paint chip file for the new colors so I can print them, snip them out and put them on our rack so folks can tell where the colors are... We _were_ all up to date - but not any more. I know I saw a big olde .jpg somewhere that had them all to that point, but I don't remember where I need to look. Thanks in advance.
  20. I was hoping that mine didn't come out as a 'grump' but a simple question ... It's just kinda funny to refer customers to the Casketworks to find the figure they want (as opposed to the wall that is 6 feet high and 20+ feet long full of the Reaper figures) and have them point out that is says 'Spring 2006'. Not too helpful as a reference source - and puts us in the situation of defending Reaper since they 'must be out of business since they haven't made a new catalog since the beginiing of the year'. (sigh) Thanks for the fast response. ... now if we can olny get the RMS paints to not be randomly glossy, randomly goopy and randomly not have caps secured this could all work out !
  21. They might have trouble mixing with other companies paints - for that reason I only use a single companies paint and then only a single 'line' when I paint. makes sure it all works together. They mixed very well with themselves. No issues there. We used to stock the cartoon colors at our store. They cover very well because they are way over pigmented... something about needing to be opaque on a transparent medium (animation cells). Washes and glazes worked OK. Their strength was in the fact you could get 3 things from them you can't get from any other hobby paint company I know of : 1) actual color chips. They have a few folks who litteraly take paint and dab it on to cell stock so you can see _exactly_ the color of the paint. No bad guesses based on printed 'color chips'. 2) consistant color. A new batch _never_ varied one bit from previous batches. Ever. 3) custom colors. Along with the chips I mentioned in 1 above - they allowed you to order the specific color you wanted - so you have the choice of 32 grays, 32 reds, 32 orange reds, 32 yellows, etc. Some colors only had 15 or so variants, like greyed yellow if memory served, but if you wanted to put together your own triads, quartets or whatever you just got things like the brown 20, brown 15, brown 10, brown 5 and brown 1 and you simply layered from there. 4) (I'm adding it becuase I can) a 3oz bottle. Buy it once and either split it with a friend or two or simply have a stock forever. They provided very vivid color - but they dried pretty darn fast. However 10 or 12 drops of Folkart extender in the bottle cured that. Would thhey be your cup of tea ? Good question. They are suitable for some styles of painting, but certainly not for others. You
  22. So I was noticing the latest batch of Casketworks I got in at my shop still said 'Spring 2006'. Given it's wandering into 2007... is there a new one due out any time soon ? Thanks
  23. I was betting costs were the reasoning - and I can understand & respect that. But... Noone really looks at the costs involved (as a customer) when you have the little pot-strip sitting in there. That is viewed as a negative becuase they aren't considered 'paint'. I understand your thoughts but either they need to all be the pot-strips or they all need to be MSP/Propaints - IMHO. Display space is _not_ what you mean when you talk about putting three of them to a peg... storage space is what is there. If I put kit 1, 2 and 3 on a peg (in that order) it looks only like three sets of number 3. If you could get the new carded sets dimensions down in size it would be handy, handy, handy. That is why the oversized cards for the minis is annoying to the few stores (like us) who carry _all_ the miniatures and put them one to a peg face out so customers can see them and choose from them. Going from the old cards to the current cards ate up an extra 10 running feet 6 foot high. The 'old' boxed kits had a footprint that was bearable to put them face out on the wall... now the new one is bigger - again. At this point we almost have to start choosing what lines we may drop in order to fit in the paint kits. ...and never mind that the currrennt rack system for the MSP is horribly space inefficent as well. I hope to carry all the Reaper products but it looks like the space hungry packaging of all the different items in the line (except for brushes and extra bottles) is going to have us make choices. Hard choices. Don't get me wrong - we love the figs, we love the paint, it's just the packaging that's making it hard. Please - keep up the good work, just try to find packaging and display systems that use _less_ space to show everything - not more space. Thanks for listening !
  24. I've been a long time lurker but never posted, having decided to leave it to the folks who everyone knows as respects. But having read this topic I felt a need to reply. As a store owner (Games Plus in Mt. Prospect) I have to say that the LTPK #4 has been poorly received, at best. Even though it is hanging on our 'new items' endcap since it came out we have yet to sell one of them. This is a sad thing given that all the prior sets have sold - and continue to sell - fairly well. I have heard a number of comments about the fact that the mini-pots have turned people away from the kit. Even having the older Pro Paints in the kit as opposed to the mini-pots would make folks happy. I think far to many people connect the 'strip of paints' to the old paint by number kits, little crafty things and non-adventuring gaming things as opposed to 'beginner' paints. On a aside - bring back the boxes _PLEASE_. They look more professional, they have a smaller footprint and they are easier to display. The current blister packaging is huge, it's unatractive in it's bright red card and it does nonthing to flatter the contents on the kit. The professional picture of the contents on the boxes of the older kits made them far more appealing. ... but that's only my thoughts.
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