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Everything posted by Paintdawg

  1. Your Green Lantern inspired me to try my own hand at Pez dispenser repainting (also because I'm interested in painting busts but don't want to spend a lot of money on them yet). I used the BvS-affiliated Batfleck dispenser. Thank you again for the idea!
  2. Thanks for the responses. The base is simply a rock I found hiking. I have a box full of rocks destined to be miniature bases. I always liked this one because of the natural "step" it included, which worked in this case to give the bad guy a slight height advantage, increasing his threat. I glued the rock to a regular round base to give it a littler more stability.
  3. Suitable for the side of a van somewhere ... Kjell Bloodbear and Rhasia, Zombie Master take on the older version of Dragoth the Defiler. I swapped out Dragoth's original sword, which I thought was a little puny, with one from an OOP Reaper undead warrior. I also painted him a little like Arthas because I need to mix my genres further.
  4. This is an older figure I did when I was figuring out NMM (as seen on the blade). For some reason, my camera has forgotten how to take miniature pictures so I've been using Hellakin here to relearn the various controls. It's still not 100 percent, but passable. Meanwhile, I also more recently tried my hand at using a limited palette on this Pandora from Wyrd. It's inspired somewhat by the style of Spanish artist Nekro:
  5. This figure sat in the figure box and then the shelf of shame for a long time as I tried to come up with an original paint scheme. After a while I gave up and, armed with Wayne Reynolds' book, painted her "canon." As always, comments welcome.
  6. Thanks for the comments! My go-to colors for aged white are Reaper's khaki triad (09321-09323) with Linen White as a top highlight and brown lined mixed in as a bottom shadow, if necessary. You can control how "old" the color looks by how much of the darker end of the triad is visible.
  7. I was drawn to this figure by how it creeped me out. Something about the finger in front of his lips, so he's not threatening like a movie monster but thinking or warning. Anywho, all comments welcome.
  8. Any comments welcome. This one, I tried a little more storytelling, if only for a sense of place.
  9. Thanks for the compliments! As for the white, I generally base with Reaper's Cloudy Grey and then cover this with Misty Grey, leaving the Cloudy Grey visible only in the creases. I then add increasing amounts of white to Misty Grey until it's almost white. I apply white VERY sparingly on the very tops of creases. You have to be careful with white because if you aren't careful, too much can make the figure look either too flat or unnaturally bright. Think of it like this: when you look at something white, like a coffee cup or a shirt, you're generally looking at a very pale version of whatever the underlying color is, be it grey or beige or whatever. The glints of light on the white coffee cup are the only true white on there. Other than that, my advice is the same as everyone's: thin paint and always move your brush from dark to light. For those who wanted to see the angel's back:
  10. Continuing to work on my camera skills, here's some figures completed in the past year. The first two are Reapers: 03267 The Gladiator 50033 "Action" Jackson 50061 Professor Froschmeister (an experiment with OSL) This one is High Saint Elienai from Anima Tactics. And this final one was from the late 1980s Ral Partha. I think she was Queen of Evil or something. Of course, that meant drow. Thanks for the opportunity.
  11. These two sat on the painting table for a loooong time while I did commissions. The ettin's color scheme was inspired by the many Warmachine trollbloods I painted for others. I had no interest in getting those figures for myself but liked the color combination. The efreeti was based on Derek Schubert's Eccardian Drovenge but went sideways somewhere. Also, if anyone has any tips on photography feel free to share.
  12. A weapon swap and an arm bend later and Britta War Maiden becomes a certain Amazon. She had sat in my bits box for some time because I didn't really want to paint a generic spearwoman. But her headpiece reminded me of WW's tiara and she was off an running. The funny thing is I'm far more of a Marvel guy so now I have to correct the balance in my figure cabinet.
  13. This is a zombie from a Grenadier D&D monster set of the early 1980s. It displays the paint strategy I used for 10 years: base color, black wash, done. I will cop to the fact my mom painted the eyes because she had a much steadier hand.
  14. Great skin. What's the shading color? And what's the recipe on his hair? I find highlighting red tends to go pink so I't interesting you kept the depth.
  15. Howdy. I'm in need of some advice. I typically paint in desaturated, realistic colors. But a commission client has asked me to paint a number of figures using bright orange robes. I mean like sports team orange, Auburn Tigers orange. My natural inclination would be to shade it with brown or even blue (the complimentary color on the wheel) but that's grey. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Dave
  16. For my Halloween contest entry I combined 14182 Night Spectre with one of the kids from the Townsfolk group. I added the candy pumpkin, crown and scepter. Enjoy.
  17. I figured I'd enter at the last minute.
  18. Comments welcome. I have no idea who made the orc, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't Reaper.
  19. Ok. I've decided to switch entirely to brush on primers because I've had it with the texture/humidity issues I get with sprays. But the two bottles of white Reaper brush on primer I have (purchased 6 months apart) come out the consistency of water (and this is after rupturing a tendon from shaking the things so hard). Do I simply need to shake them more? Or is this a common problem with Reaper's brush on primers?
  20. I had this exact same thing happen to me using a can of Armory matte sealer. The weather was perfect, humidity-wise, so I have to believe it was an old can. Anywho, this is what solved it: get a can of Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss. I got one at WalMart for less than $3. Spray a heavy coat of that on the figure and then hold it under a bright lamp. We're not trying to bake the figure, just remove some of the excess moisture from the gloss coast. The idea is the gloss coat will dissolve the finish coat underneath it, including the fuzziness. Once it is try, you can try again with Testors Dullcoat or whatever else you want to use. Because of my bad luck with sprays, I have switched to brush-on primers and sealers from here on out.
  21. Beautiful figure! What are the skin tones painted with?
  22. Thanks for the comments! Ok, let's see if I remember this correctly: First, mix up some RMS Grass Green and Ultramarine Blue (about 1/1, I'd say). This will be called Icy Green. Base is 1/1 mix of GW Liche Purple and Icy Green Icy Green alone is then plainted on the big "muscles" and panels of the skirt, leaving the purple in the recesses. In applying the highlights, it helps to think of each muscle or panel as a jewel, since ice refracts light in a similar way. So the muscle or panel will remain dark towards the top and get progressively lighter towards the bottom. Don't highlight the upper edge until you reach the last couple of highlights. Highlight 1 is 1/1 mix of Icy Green and GW Hawk Turquoise. Highlight 2 is Hawk Turquoise alone. Now mix up 1/1 of RMS Sky Blue and White. This will be called Icy Blue (I realize there may be RMS colors that match these mixes, but I'm on a budget). Highlight 3 is 1/1 mix of Hawk Turquoise and Icy Blue Highlight 4 is Icy Blue alone. Highlight 5 is 1/1 mix of Icy Blue and GW Space Wolves Grey. This will be used very sparingly and should be used to define the edges. You can also put in some fine lines on larger flat panels to give the illusion of light going through the crystals. Final highlight is white used on the extreme edges and corners. Mix green and blue ink, thin out to a glaze and use a couple of layers to unify the highlights. You can also add a little purple ink to the mix if you don't think the shadows are deep enough. Finally, go back and hit the high spots with pure white again.
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