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Kannan Fodder

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Everything posted by Kannan Fodder

  1. I'm guessing miniatures or whatever else you may need that fits the space. My brush soap would fit in one of those slots. I'm also wondering if these cases will be available for purchase without the paints. Would be handy to for transporting RMS paints too. ~M
  2. Back when Warlord figures were first sold (before the rules and data cards), many of them came with these cool metal bases. I don't see them anymore. Any chance they could be released as an additional scenic base pack? I'm talking about the ones that had stones, moss, and such. One even had a snake: http://www.reapermini.com/ShowcaseGallery/Warlord/latest/14047 http://www.reapermini.com/ShowcaseGallery/Warlord/latest/14016 ~M
  3. I took the highlights up a couple more levels, adding a drop of Ghost White each time, so it's pretty subtle. Actually, it's barely noticeable. Photo taken outside this time, but it's overcast today, so the light is still bright. Background is just the concrete driveway. I'm going to continue adding highlights by adding a drop of Ghost White to each level, but have been debating on using a very thin wash/glaze of Blue Liner for the deepest shadows. ~M
  4. I know that our water tends to be alkaline, and one of the municipal water sources here in San Diego has recently started adding fluoride to the tap water. I've been using a Brita system for years, but I've also seen distilled water recommended over regular tap water. I was just wondering what others had to say on this subject. Personally I haven't had any serious problems with tap water, but I usually don't add water directly to my paints. I mix everything on the spot for immediate use. I was wondering about how this may or may not affect a "gunk" mixture. Regarding bottled water - yeah, I've found that a bit humorous myself. 90% of the bottled water I've seen has been "filtered tap water with minerals added for taste." My mom only drinks bottled water, which was on the recommendation of her oncologist, so we buy water for her while the rest of us use the Brita. ~M
  5. I'm having a devil of a time trying to highlight up black myself, so have resorted to using actual photo references of rock stars on stage. Some wear cloth, some wear leather, some wear vinyl, but it helps to actually see how the material behaves under harsh stage lighting. Not sure if that will help anyone, but thought it was worth tossing out. I love that face! The expression alone would have sold me on the figure! Looking very good tho. ~M
  6. Yup, the $39.99 is for a set of nine, three of each. Originally this set was to augment a Warlord Elven army with grunt troops. If you do order the whole set, it may come in a nifty plastic box like the rest of the boxed sets. "May" - I'm not sure. Someone will probably chime in with an answer soon, tho. The price next to the boneyard piece is for a single of that piece. Most average size Reaper figs retail for about $5.99 right now, some slightly more depending on complexity, number of pieces, and weight. So the $6.32 you see will be for one figure. I looked over the Figure Finder (http://www.reapermini.com/FigureFinder) to see if it's sold alone, but no go. LOTS of male elves with swords tho. ~M
  7. I keep forgetting the purpose of the grocery store run - distilled water. I see it recommended by just about everyone for paint mixing recipes. However, in all the years I've been painting, I've never used it. I usually dilute my paint at the time I'm using it, so often just mix in tap water. I clean up my tile after painting, so usually only mix what I'm going to immediately use. As of yet, I've had very little trouble. I have a Brita pitcher for drinking water, and in theory, it filters out all the bad stuff that's added to tap water. What I'm wondering is: Is filtered tap water good enough to use, or is distilled water better? Thanks all! ~M
  8. Are you looking for the male elf with the sword raised above his head? (He's the only one not pictured out of the set.) If it's just the female, check this one: http://www.reapermini.com/FigureFinder#detail/14323 Just to let you know, the set you found actually includes nine figures, but you can order singles from the boneyard. ~M
  9. I wouldn't worry too much about it, as you were both working from the same reference art. ~M
  10. Cool! I make a lot of my own jewelry too. I found that my scrap copper wire makes excellent pins for pinning miniatures, and also comes in handy for conversion work. Broken crystals also make nice gems, and I've also given some to an artist friend who does a lot of fantasy painting. ~M
  11. All is still quiet on the eastern front. (That's where the cemetery is.) ~M
  12. Drat! Had I noticed Bryan's post sooner, I'd have included those on my order Thursday! Those are what I usually use. Well, forgot to order a couple minis too, so those go on the wish list.... ;) ~M
  13. I live next to a cemetery.... Could be rather interesting if there is any basis in all the hype. ~M
  14. Alas, I gotta wait until next year - which gives me time to improve my painting skills. Just ordered my Sophies, so will have something to show off in a month or so. ~M
  15. Do you also make your own jewelry? That can be VERY time consuming..... ~M
  16. Sweet! I'm the only one of my gaming group who's on the forums, so sent my DM the info. He's big into Deadlands and is really looking forward to the new stuff. This will really make his day knowing there's MORE goodness on the way. Thanks Bryan! Thanks Reaper!!! ~M
  17. Taklon (specifically Golden Taklon) is synthetic. Not sure about red sable. I generally buy Kolinsky sable brushes, as they are natural hair bristles. I've had rotten luck with synthetics, and the inevitable tip curl drives me nuts. I purchased a bunch of RMS brushes back when Reaper started making their own Kolinsky sable brushes for the Master Series line, and I've been extremely happy with them. In fact, I'm still using the ones I bought when they were first released. I've seen it recommended to look for watercolor brushes when selecting brushes for miniatures painting. There are all kinds of technical terms involved, but what it boils down to is that they have the flexibility to lay down nice smooth coats as well as better holding a fine point for detail work. As to primer - that's a matter of taste depending on what your preferences are. I too prefer white because I like brighter colors, and it's harder to get those vivid tones over black. I usually use spray-on white, but you have to be careful and not spray it too thick, or it will obliterate detail. Also, it can bubble and run when sprayed too thick. I've used paint-on primer, but the downside is that it takes longer to prime and dry, but you can prime at any time of day or night. And the RMS primer is pretty good stuff. I have a friend who prefers grey primer because he prefers the more neutral/muted colors. I have used black primer, but that's usually for things I plan on heavily drybrushing like animal fur, armor, skeletons, or things that are going to be dark or mostly black. Usually I prime white and then basecoat in black. ~M
  18. If that's how you sulk.... Pattern is nice, consistent, even into the folds of the cloth. Great job. Personally, I think you're doing a great job. I have some of those cork plant cushions for bases myself, planned on using them for dragons and larger creatures because you can easily carve the cork. I like your weeping willow. Keep going, this is getting rather fascinating. ~M
  19. Congratulations!!! Thanks so much for some good news! It really made my day. ~M
  20. Catalogs are great for references - especially the older ones that have some of the discontinued lines. I have Casketworks dating back to the first release, and I really love all the extra fun stuff included. However, I usually check the website for new stuff rather than rely on catalogs. My "spiffy" computer has spoiled me with the "instant gratification" thing, and Reaper is excellent about previewing new stuff via the Greens section. Thus I already have my "Wish List" ready when the figures are cast and released. Still, I like having my copy of Casketworks too. So much fun stuff in there. ~M
  21. Are you talking about the mold lines being very obviously offset? If so, that happens from time to time, and is more obvious on older molds. I have one special figure that is as much as a full millimeter offset. (I have two copies of this figure, and it's the same on both of them.) I usually use Green Stuff to fix damaged areas, or to smooth out mold lines I cannot easily clean up without damaging a figure. ~M
  22. Thanks guys. TS, I really like your take. I've been struggling with a few other figures, and your advice is going to help me a lot. MG, I used the link you posted (in another thread) for painting gemstones as inspiration for the eyes. More highlights to follow. Have company visiting, and a full weekend, so will probably sit down and do some painting when things settle down tonight. Thanks again! ~M
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