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sam500

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Everything posted by sam500

  1. Here is a picture showing the mini directly after the basecoat -> whitewash -> fading And here I've painted the base coat starting to show through And here I've added heavy weathering and chipping at these same locations And then maybe I went a little overboard with the rust
  2. Thanks for your suggestions guys. This was a test piece to try out some techniques before starting with the rest of the army. I figured it would be easy to practise on the largest of the minis as at 15mm things can get really small, really fast. I kind of figured there was too much rust after I put it on from a historical perspective, but I was trying to balance chromatic depth and history. When it was only whitewashed it looked rather bland. I'll try changing things up with the next tank and make it more mud caked instead of rusted (maybe dried and wet mud this time). Cheers! Sam
  3. This tank is supposed to be part of a Bastogne company. Fighting through the winter until eventually running out of gas, this battered tank started out with dark yellow dunkelgelb, was white-washed, and has now started to rust through the end of winter. Anyway, this is my first Flames of War figure painted so far. I'm going to try and finish a Konigstiger company from the "River of Heroes" book. This also represents my first use of enamel paints, oil paints, and powdered pigments. I haven't added any decals yet as I haven't figured out where to get the proper numerals and division symbols. Nod pointed me in the right direction to what symbols would be necessary for a Konigstiger Bastogne unit: "I've got the 506 and SS 501 around Bastogne..... the 506 first tiger II's delivered had large olive green patches on dark yellow base. balkenkreuze in centre of turret side. Later tigers had dark green and earth brown spots. it had a three digit marking system, but still numbering the tanks in the companies from 1 to 14. The company digit was placed on the RH side of the balkenkreuze. the 2./ had red numbers with a white outline. the 3./ had black numbers with a yellow outline. it div symbol was the W with yellow tiger. the 501 the Tiger II's were void of zimmeritt and painted in ambush scheme. 1./ black numerals with white outline, on middle of turret side. No balkenkreuze 2./ red with white outlines 2./ blue outlined with yellow. battalion had large red numerals with white outline. SS 501 had the crossed keys on the shield"
  4. I'm having trouble finding the specific post. Is it in the painting section of the forum or is it the FAQ? Thanks, Sam ps: I've been reading around a bit. I'm going to buy a 10 color palette of Michael Harding oils and give it a try this weekend. Cheers! edit: Sorry... found it now. Geeze I'm dumb.
  5. I mean the oil paints that come in tubes like the artist's paints. Cheers! Sam
  6. Hey guys, I've got a couple of questions for you. 1. Where is there a good primer for painting miniatures with oil paints? I'm just starting. 2. What are the better oil paint brands for miniatures (I'm thinking fine pigments that dilute well)? 3. If you've got any other suggestions for someone starting to try oils please shoot them at me. I'm a fairly salty dog when it comes to acrylics, so I'm not newbie. I'm just new to oils. Cheers guys! Yours, Sam
  7. Maybe for airbrushing? It's going for 2 for a $1 at Michael's.
  8. I'm so sorry for your loss Meg. I don't know what I'd do if I lost one of my brothers, it makes me sad even to imagine it. I will take your advice on appreciating them more to heart. I wish for you the best. Yours, Sam
  9. I use a Rainin LTS Pipette to grab 50 microliters at a time. Here's an example of a Gilson: http://cgi.ebay.com/Gilson-Pipetman-P100-V...1QQcmdZViewItem
  10. We need photos. How much does a box set like this cost? I miss the days of metal minis being Ubiquitous.
  11. This is the best 1st mini I have EVER seen. Wow.
  12. Vallejo makes a metallic medium with some use to add to any color. I haven't really used it much as I prefer to above method.
  13. I love demi-metalics. And they can be really simple. Basically I pick my shade,base, highlight as if the mini wasn't going to be metallic. Then I mix with those colors the silver triad (shade with shade, base with base, highlight with highlight). Basically I treat the really light silver as my white so I highlight op to that. Occasionally I'll brighten the light silver with a dash of white as well. I love the way it works. Also, if you want more of a NMM feel you can give the bugger a matte coat and it looks like you're a NMM master. I've found demi -metalics work best with really bright vibrant colors where you can see the sparkle.... but that's just me. :)
  14. The organization comes from loaning out paints to mates. I also host paint parties for my gaming group on weekends sometimes so I needed a way of helping people figure out what colour goes well with what.... it also helped with the putting away I spent many a night putting stuff back in it's proper place before the numbering system.
  15. One thing you might consider instead of NMM is vallejo metallic medium. Instead of shading from black to white, you could transition from dull black to "metallic" black as a highlight. Or Dull Black to "metallic" blue black, brown black, grey.
  16. Hey Guys, I've altered my longriders slightly so that they are carrying a wider assortment of weapons. Most of the weapons are from very old GW bits or the Reven weapon pack from reaper. Also, I've altered the pose of a couple of the bison so that they are rearing up on their hind legs. Finally, I've added banners. A tutorial of these banners can be found at www.imperialforge.net The bases are not done, but you can already see the different themes for each rider. There will be a rider from the icy tundra, the forests, the moutains, the riverlands, and the desert. They all come together in times of stress to fight for their people, but indeed they are LONGriders. smile.gif This will make it easy for me to match them to damage as well. Comments and suggestions are appreciated. The next phase of the banners is to be painted and then decalled with some homemade decals that I'll print out on decal paper. Also, I've found that apoxy sculpt rocks the hizouse when it comes to gap filling minis with putty. It stays softer for a lot longer than any other putty I've tried (green stuff, brown stuff, A+B putty, milliput, procreate) and it dries really really hard. Hard enough to sand (like brown stuff). Although I don't think it's a great putty for creating larger objects than gap filling.
  17. I'm working on these bases for some trollblood cavalry units and they've got loads of different coloured stones. I'm kind of happy with the way they look, but at the some time..... they're not painted. Do you guys paint all your stones and bits always? (excluding grass of course). Cheers, Sam
  18. I want to paint some thick chunks of ice (made from stone) on a base. Do you guys just use light blue and white? What's your secret? Cheers! Yours, Sam
  19. I ended up making the banners out of plastic board following the tutorial on www.imperialforge.net I'll post pics once they're done. I really like how they're turning out so far. I'm going to print out some of my own decals to put on the banner as standards. This is my first time making my own banner and using decals. Cheers, Sam
  20. She's very pretty. I like the skin color. Where did you get the basing material. The feathery green things. I'm working on a bunch of differently themed bases and would love to get some for my forest base. Cheers Sam
  21. I like the work done on Dracula's vest. Although I'd highlight his skin to white.
  22. I want to make a a bunch of pennants (feudal japan style) for some mounted cavalry minis of mine, but am not sure what material to use. I've read somewhere about people using foil form wine bottles...??? Does anyone know how to do this, has done it, or know a good tutorial to go to? Cheers, Sam
  23. Ok, I've put some more work into the stones on the back. I think I've finally got them how I like them. Here are two pics displaying my "highlighting in reverse" method in action. The first pic shows the stones outlined on the extreme highlights. The second pic shows these highlights blended down to darker shades. On the far arms you can still see some of the drybrushed stones done with the same colors. I think this shading method allows for a lot more depth than the drybrushed stones. Anyway, more to follow.
  24. So I put some work in the stones on the top of his back to try and figure out what I'm going to do. Here's a pic of a few of them that are complete. Do you guys think there's enough contrast there or should I bring the highlights up a notch or two?
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