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Bruunwald

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Posts posted by Bruunwald

  1. 27 minutes ago, Pegazus said:

    I don’t know why it came to mind, and I don’t know the game’s scale, but I wondered if some green powder would be a good sub for the grass. The other thought was some very fine foam, grass colored of course. 

     

    This goes to Corsair's recommendation (above). Woodland Scenics has a line of flock that is basically not much more than green powder, that can be used to simulate moss at 28mm size, or general grass cover at smaller scales.

    • Thanks 1
  2. 1. Interesting. If I recall, liner is akin to ink, which I typically do not thin in the airbrush as it is quite thin already. But when I do thin it, I don't use water, I use Vallejo's Airbrush thinner. Same kind I use when I thin paints that are not specifically formulated for airbrush. It's made to thin so the paint can pass through, but does not produce a beading effect like water sometimes can. On that note, I prime Bones with primer. That's one of the conveniences of having an airbrush - no more worry about melting plastics with rattlecans and no more laboring to prime same by hand (or with weird materials).

     

    2. When I paint a bunch at a time, I just double up packing tape on cardboard and press the minis down firmly. Your airbrush should not be so powerful that it is blowing them off of the taped surface. If it is, two things may be at play: you might need to turn your psi down on your compressor; or maybe you are holding the airbrush too close to the model.

     

    When I do individuals, I blue tack them to these very handy heavy rubber sink stoppers. You should be able to find them at hardware stores, like ACE. I reserve those for more detailed models needing more attention, though.

     

    3. I don't have experience with Stylenz. I assume they are acrylic? Beading could be caused by a few things. I know you are experienced and know how to clean your models, so I would say maybe latent moisture in the airbush? That would go away after a minute or two, though... I tend to spray a very thin coat of primer first, then build up with a second, possibly third coat. I would say maybe try to "dust" the mini on the first pass? Hold the brush eight or so inches away and release the paint slowly to get a quick dusting first.

    • Like 1
  3. I'm going to necro this thread because it's a fine idea. In fact, I found it while searching for this very suggestion/function.

     

    Being how easy it is for a popular Bones model to sell out (probably to the very same people who already have multiple copies of it from their Kickstarter pledges), and how long it takes to get same back in stock, some kind of alert feature would be very, very welcome.

     

    I drive myself nuts checking on a thing over and over.

     

    Specifically, in this case, this thing, which would have been a great success at an upcoming convention.

     

    • Like 1
  4. 5 minutes ago, Inarah said:

    Looks like a good start. You have total coverage on the figure, not missing any spots. 

     

    Be aware that frontal nudity, even on tiny fantasy figures, is not allowed on the Reaper forum, you may want to photograph from the back side. 

    Does this figure count as nude? I've seen it on here before, painted up in flames and I don't think it caused any trouble. It's an elemental. It has no naughty bits.

    • Like 1
  5. 11 minutes ago, alchemist said:

    Hasslefree sells some nice sprues of bald heads that might suit your conversion needs.

    Hasslefree are an altogether different scale (including the heads) and would not look right if you are converting a Reaper scale mini.

     

    Try Statuesque Miniatures. They have a whole line of attractive female heads in heroic scale with many different hair styles to choose from.

  6. 1 hour ago, alchemist said:

    5e is less hung up on base sizes than some of the earlier editions. From the DMG:

     

    "Less hung up" is subjective. Some of us enjoy designing monsters/encounters from an increased tactical perspective. And that is also good, if that is the sort of game one is playing.

     

    Note my careful language. This is how Edition Wars (TM) start.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  7. 16 minutes ago, Nunae said:

    Yep, giants are all supposed to be huge this edition, so 3 inch base.

    Did you buy a current blind box or something from an older edition? I'm not sure when, but apparently, giants didn't always all go onto a 3 inch base.

     

    I don't play 5th, and I largely ignored 4th, but I did buy some blind WoTC boxes during 4th, and there were still giants rated as Large. This whole all-giants-are-huge thing flew right under my radar. Weird. Seems kind of limiting. But to answer your question of when giants did not all always go on a 3 inch base, that would be the vast majority of the game's history.

    • Like 2
  8. Warlord Miniatures had Savage Core, which was a line with their own "Simians," along with Neanderthals, Amazons, and some tribal men, and European-style explorers. They have since sold the line to somebody else, and I recently saw an ad or Kickstarter for that other company, but I can't find the name.

     

    Some of the Simians are still up on Amazon.

     

    EDIT: Lucid Eye Miniatures has them now.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  9. 12 minutes ago, Guindyloo said:

     

     

    I didn't mean to be fussing or make y'all feel like you needed to defend yourselves. But when you're recommending a medical tool that is specifically made to cut flesh, I think the disclaimers should follow pretty close behind. We want to have educated sacrifices to the hobby gods. ::P:

    I don't consider a project to be legit until I have bled on it. My proudest accomplishments all have my blood under the paint, somewhere.

    • Like 6
    • Haha 3
  10. Like some others here, I don't "practice" as much as I just "experiment." I tend to analyze a mini to determine what techniques it will require, long before I get it home. If I see something that looks like it might require different techniques from what I am used to, or have tried before, I typically still already have figured out what I am going to do with it before I start.

     

    Once committed, I tend to just make adjustments to technique for anything going "wrong." If I really don't like it, I will stop at some point and maybe re-paint at a later time, maybe right away, depending on need.

     

    But I never intentionally sit down to practice a technique on a throwaway mini, so to speak. I tend to just do it. (No meme intended.)

    • Like 7
  11. I hadn't seen this thread before, but let me tell you all that reading through it has been an enjoyable way to spend my lunch.

     

    Not that I enjoy seeing anybody inconvenienced at all.

     

    But it has been quite a page-turner.

    • Like 4
  12. There was a request in the head swap thread to see how I had painted up some Starship Generators that were seen there with a slight modification.

     

    Rather than hijack that thread, I'll just drop these here.

     

    These were painted up rather quickly, as are many things when working up to a convention on short notice. But I did take the time to transfer some numbers on these, just to add a little bit extra. The "mod", as it were, is in the form of the bases I added, with some nuts and bolts (made from styrene rod and hex rod) thrown on there, just to give the impression these were bolted to a starship deck, or similar.

     

     

    Gennies.JPG

    Turned Around.JPG

    • Like 16
  13. On 3/7/2018 at 2:14 PM, Jordan Peacock said:

     

    Now I want to try making a bolt head / nut head like that, and glue it to a flat piece of card, and use some Japanese plastic clay (AKA "Instant Mold -- but cheaper!") to make a press-mold.  I can see value in churning out a bunch of little green-stuff rivets/bolts for future steampunkery and "industrial" pieces.  I approve of the "value-add" to the generators!  I'd really like to see how you painted them up.  Tech-wise, they seem to fit a very nice middle-space between "clunky tech" and "high tech."  That is, there's enough mechanical-looking bits to it that I could justify painting it up rusty and dinged-up for a Fallout-type or Warhammer-40K-ish retro-futuristic industrial scene ... or I could see painting it for what passes for more glossy and futuristic these days by mostly painting it in sleek white and black, with some "glowy neon" accents (such as the recessed "corner" segments on the large round segment on one side of the generator that MIGHT be a huge wire coil, OR it could be some sort of fancy-schmancy micro-particle-accelerator).

     

    Adding a few bolts/nuts like that helps to nail down going in more of the "retro-futuristic" direction, which seems friendlier to any plans to add grunge and dings and rust effects and so forth.  :)

     

    D'oh! MFG of said hex is Plastruct. Don't know why I typed "Plasticraft."

     

    I mainly work in silicone and resin for duplicating stuff, so if I were to mold those, I would probably mold the whole base (and I have given it some thought, and might eventually get to it, but at the time I made those I was on a deadline).

     

    One of the benefits for me of doing it this way, is that I can opt to cast the whole base, or alternately just drop a tiny bit of resin into each nut section to cast just those.

     

    EDIT: Pics of the painted gennies here.

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