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Everything posted by Przemas

  1. painting skin is for me the most challenging but also the most enjoyable part of the miniature hobby. As for placing highlights - if I`m unsure how to place them I use one of the 2 tips: 1. prime zenithally (first prime black, then spray white from above) - white paint settles on all the areas that should be made lighter 2. prime white then under a strong light I make a reference photo so I can check how the shadows and highlights lie Generally when it comes to face cheekbones, nose, chin, eyebrow should be made lighter. It`s much motre difficult to tell something more about other parts of the body as it all depends how they`re positioned. I have a way of creating skin tone that you might find tricky. I usually mix the dominant colours I use for the model to create a skin tone that will match the rest of the paintjob. For example if most of the clothing is made using purples and yellows I`ll mix those colours with white and use such mix as a base skin colour. I`d add purple for shadows and white with a drop of yellow for highlights. Sometimes I add other colours if I`d like to get soem special effect or create soem kind of mood. Check this article, as it explains those things quite nicely: http://www.chestofcolors.com/cofc-postnuke...d=28&page=1
  2. it depends how would you like to build the harmony on the model. generally there are 2 most common approaches - harmony by oposition, or harmony by analogy. first uses colours from the other side of the color wheel. so with purple you`d use yellow as well. the problem with this approach is that it`s relatively easy to get too cartoonish overall look (total trash). to get round this problem many painters use less saturated colours or one of the colors is dominant and the second one is used only on couple, well chosen details. for example - you can paint a models clothing with purple tones, while yellow wold be used on jewelery, buckles and so on. harmony by analogy uses colors that are really close on the colour wheel. so for purple that would be blue and red-purple (magenta). judging by your post it looks like you want to get more contrast, so using some yellow might be good idea. BTW - hope i haven`t messed my explanation a bit as I`m not so keen about those "artistic" terms in english.
  3. personally i use gunze white primer or model master.
  4. can`t recall which paints i`ve used for nmms from the Reaper range (and I think Anne has already covered this topic) but when it comes to GW I tend to use snakebite leather+black, snakebite leather, snakebite leather + white for golds and chaos black highlighted to space wolves grey for steel/silver.
  5. wonder if there`s some similar stuff availible in Europe
  6. observe how these objects reflect light in reality. it`s basically the key to making cool glass, gems and so on. colour is not that important in this case - you could get convincing effect with almost any.
  7. what paints do you use? guess you`ve tried watering them down on the palette? addding soem glaze medium into the mix often helps. if you use paints with eydropper bottles remove the dropper end, clean it, pluck it into the bottle again and shake the bottle for a minute. often a tad dried paint builds up in a dropper. each time you squeeze the bottle you don`t get fresh paint but the dried up one. if that`s the case cleaning should help.
  8. personally i`d put decals on gloss. also i`d use decal solutions like micro sol - they really make the difference.
  9. beautifully done! love the autumn colour scheme
  10. the gw`s varnish is a tricky one - when applied correctly gives nice results. other times it can ruin your model. moreover i found that it sometimes is different from can to can (even though I shake the can quite much) - not always that matte. personally if you can`t get testors I`d go for Krylon matte with UV filter. Good an reliable stuff.
  11. most people find miniature series easier to handle. I`d go for the 2 and 1 sized ones. smaller brushes I use rarely - the tip of the Series 7 brushes is so fine you could paint even extremely small details with rather large brush. I`d also buy cheap (no Series 7) flat brush (size 4) for covering larger, flat areas.
  12. for shallow water I`d go for watter effects such as Vallejo still water. they`re not well suited for a deep water as they shrink horribly though. for such piece I`d go for 2 part clear resin.
  13. that`s a damn lovely piece :) ! would love to see article about how you approach painting skin (covering not just the colour, but general philosophy, and the way how you think about highlights etc).
  14. personally i use browns (no news here ;) , mostly chestnut) and purples.
  15. if you wish to mute, desaturate color add a tiny drop of color laying dircetly on the other side of the color wheel (can`t recall how such colours are called in english). so for example - to desaturate red add a tiny blob of green. it`s also good way to deepen the shades.
  16. we haven`t gone offtopics too mcuh, have we ? but on the other hand i`m used to loosely moderated polish forums (am i not Tomash ?). definitely your line is great. telling the truth we use reaper metallics in the studio almost exclusively. to be honest we propably would use more of your paints if you had polish distrubutor so we could get invoice when we buy them and if we had at least half as good discount as we have on other lines (sadly when you`re running company you have to watch the economical matters ).
  17. hello there :) ! being author of this article i have to say you have a wonderful paint line. to explain why p3 scored higher first i should tell you what i had in mind when i was testing all those paints. i had to create a list of things that are important for average/beginning painter and compare it with the things that proffesionals would appreciate. coverage turned out to be the most important and that`s the main field on which p3 beat the rms. also economically p3 turned out a tad better - you get twice as much paint for just a tad higher price (at least in poland). otherwise both lines scored high in all the other categories. as for the paint pots - i don`t care as long as it keeps the paint wet (drying is a common issue with citadels). i was huge fan of eyedroppers but clogging changed this attitude a bit. now i consider those flip-tops better - but note that only for "home painting". in the studio, where there`s always lots of people (and lots of possibilities to knock the pot ;) ) eydropper are better solution. i haven`t found p3 shiny - they`re not as matte as citadels but at the same time not as shiny as some of vgc. i was a bit afraid about p3 transparency - high coverage often means no or low transparency (that`s the typical problem with vgc). to my surprise, and relief, that was not the case - they have quite nice transparency so fe glazing with them is easy. as for pigment separation - i haven`t encountered this problem with any of the p3 i have. but you`re the 2nd person that informs me about this issue. i`ve read on one of the polish forums about identical case (after adding white something blue separated). i have a colour a guy that reported this problem used and checked it - with my paint all was ok. maybe you both have a bad batch? mailing pp customer service or mike mcvey directly in such situation would be a good idea. i believe they provide as excellent service as you and will replace bad pots. could you tell me (pm) with which colour you had those problems? i`d like to check it and report it if it turns out to be common issue.
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