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Crusoe the Painter

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About Crusoe the Painter

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  • Location
    Everett, WA
  • Interests
    Miniature painting, terrain making, wargaming.

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  1. Personally if I am making a wash, I use Future/Pledge floor gloss, 1 part to 4-8 parts water to dilute paint. Always works great. If you use it straight it behaves like contrast paints.
  2. I've experimented lately with pure future/Pledge floor shine with acrylic paint, and in this manner, they look to behave exactly the same as the above photos. The only difference perhaps is glossiness.
  3. Simple green is more than just citrate. The Ethoxylates the active ingredient. Its the same reason that brake fluid also works (non-silicone brake fluid is ethoxylate based). I've found simple green to be the safest long term soaking stripper. It will remove enamel paint, loosen super glue and epoxy, and strip acrylics. Safe for metal, plastic, and resin. Purple power is acidic and will pit metal figures. Pinesol works okay, but will eventually dissolve plastics and soften resins. It will also pit and darken metals. W&N brush cleaner is super fast against acrylic but will eventually dissolve plastics. For scrubbing I like using old electric toothbrushes. Sonicare works great and they now have cheaper battery powered models.
  4. Resins cure by free radical polymerization. Assuming perhaps its left over part of the resin that has come to the surface you can try washing with 70% rubbing alcohol then soap and water. Another option is maybe try to drive the reaction to completion? This is a suggestion from a chemistry perspective, I have not tried it, ymmv. You could try dipping the pieces in hot water, with the hope the heat helps finish the cure. You could try a soak in hydrogen peroxide or even warm water + oxyclean. This might help tighten up the polymerization of the resin. Another option would be hot-warm water with baking soda in it. The idea here is either to cleave off the partially reacted resin molecules, or force the reaction to completion via peroxide radicals.
  5. Exactly what future does for you. You can also add a single drop of soap or Jet Dry which will break the surface tension. Ah I need to speedpaint some figs using it...
  6. I see these contrast paints and all I can think of is how much it looks like what you get with Future ( now Pledge ) Floor Finish (Its Acrylic) mixed with regular paint. Future keeps the pigment from separating, and works great with craft paints. 1 part future to 1-8 parts water, then use this to thin your paints. I'll have to dig out some figs. Been using this since I started painting back in 99 or so.
  7. Really, "UCORS" can be brought back pretty trivially, for a given faction just use only CAVs from a given UCOR of said faction and thus of course faction rules apply. So you can still play a UCOR force, but its mostly a fluff thing with no rules impact.
  8. Mmmm, more ZBrushy goodness. Now when are we finally gonna get some cyber-genetic horrors, the Psyros?
  9. Mmmm, more ZBrush work. The latest tooling makes things like panel lines a lot easier..
  10. Ahh, good to see Zbrush being used for hard edge modeling.
  11. Sounds about right for CoolMiniOrNot. Their parent online shop (New Wave Games, now closed) would lose orders all the time.
  12. At this point... I WILL BELIEVE IT WHEN I SEE IT
  13. In the Seattle area, when I moved there in 2004, nearly all game stores I found near me had died, all the ones listed as Reaper distribs, were dead. Its started swinging back the other way again. There are finally some good stores in Seattle and other areas. Card Kingdom opened a game store in Ballard, its pretty awesome. Ray Gun Games on Cap Hill is pretty neat, but tiny, and mostly board games. Mugu Games in everett started in a tiny little shop, and now has moved to a large space next to the Everett Harbor Freight. Decent rpg seletion, and a good selection of Warmachine and Warhammer with a little reaper thrown in. Lots of terrain and tables. Not just a MtG store. Some of the old game shops in 2004 that survived from the last downturn are dire though. Musty games, few figures, etc. There is (was?) one in Green Lake that was terrible.
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