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Crusoe the Painter

Bones Supporter
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About Crusoe the Painter

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    http://www.3d-miniatures.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Everett, WA
  • Interests
    Miniature painting, terrain making, wargaming.

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  1. Probably casting temp issue. Happens sometimes.
  2. Given the 3D model image of Lysette shown in the announcement, either the master is 3D printed, and a semilflexible mold is used, or the mold is CNC milled and PVC or other flexible plastic is injection molded. Both options support undercuts, but the second would last much longer. Ejecting the plastic while still hot would lead to the deformation seen and the fact hot water won't reset it, as it was still very warm when ejected. You'd need to get closer to the glass transition temp. Are there any signs of sprue or runner lines? Ahh, something like this I think: https://www.youtube.com/
  3. Duplicolor / Krylon sandable has been my primer for years. I'll let you know how it goes. I find UNLESS I clean the bones figs in super hot and soapy water, or with windex/simple green, paints almost always tend to bead up. Mold release can migrate out of the plastics over time and onto the surface.
  4. Looks like they are SKS plastics, and polypropylene. Usually it only breaks down if exposed to sunlight. These are some old paints, so may have been a part of the bad cap bath.
  5. I havent had much time to paint until recently. Had kids, etc. Anyways, bought a vortex mixer, and have managed to rescue most of my paints. The reaper ones are proving especially easy because they already came with paint shakers inside, no need to add ball bearings! Just one problem, while the Vallejo paints are just as old, their caps are not cracking at all. Meanwhile, I'm having a lot of the Master Series paints suffering from cracking caps, some crumbling like dirt when I twist them off. This to me suggests they are made from polypropylene, a plastic that can degr
  6. So hey, I've known you guys for years. Kinda dropped off when we had kids, but I think everyone here is pretty level headed and only a handful know me IRL. This is rambling, and long. The whole mess is this. I am obsessed with Japan. Literally obsessed. I had a wonderful two week trip with my wife there. Before that I spent a few months learning Japanese so that reading the signs, knowing kinda the gist of what people were saying, etc, was somewhat possible. My interest actually started around back when I was teen, around bonsai and arts and craft, and the influence Japanese
  7. Personally if I am making a wash, I use Future/Pledge floor gloss, 1 part to 4-8 parts water to dilute paint. Always works great. If you use it straight it behaves like contrast paints.
  8. I've experimented lately with pure future/Pledge floor shine with acrylic paint, and in this manner, they look to behave exactly the same as the above photos. The only difference perhaps is glossiness.
  9. Simple green is more than just citrate. The Ethoxylates the active ingredient. Its the same reason that brake fluid also works (non-silicone brake fluid is ethoxylate based). I've found simple green to be the safest long term soaking stripper. It will remove enamel paint, loosen super glue and epoxy, and strip acrylics. Safe for metal, plastic, and resin. Purple power is acidic and will pit metal figures. Pinesol works okay, but will eventually dissolve plastics and soften resins. It will also pit and darken metals. W&N brush cleaner is super fast against acrylic
  10. Resins cure by free radical polymerization. Assuming perhaps its left over part of the resin that has come to the surface you can try washing with 70% rubbing alcohol then soap and water. Another option is maybe try to drive the reaction to completion? This is a suggestion from a chemistry perspective, I have not tried it, ymmv. You could try dipping the pieces in hot water, with the hope the heat helps finish the cure. You could try a soak in hydrogen peroxide or even warm water + oxyclean. This might help tighten up the polymerization of the re
  11. Exactly what future does for you. You can also add a single drop of soap or Jet Dry which will break the surface tension. Ah I need to speedpaint some figs using it...
  12. I see these contrast paints and all I can think of is how much it looks like what you get with Future ( now Pledge ) Floor Finish (Its Acrylic) mixed with regular paint. Future keeps the pigment from separating, and works great with craft paints. 1 part future to 1-8 parts water, then use this to thin your paints. I'll have to dig out some figs. Been using this since I started painting back in 99 or so.
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