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Crusoe the Painter

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Everything posted by Crusoe the Painter

  1. I should really break out the models I made and create some molds for these...
  2. A dental plaster base the same thickness as a plastic base is nigh-unbreakable, and its weight will make your figs more stable.
  3. Acrylics take time to fully cure. They continue to harden with age. Also, all plastics have mold-release agents or plasticizers added. Try soaking bones in dilute simple green or hot soapy water for a few minutes before painting to remove surface film.
  4. I can't find the post, but I know some folks were looking for stuff like this to make water effects, or helmets, or other things http://www.mygoohu.com/ Two part, comes in a variety of colors. Molding jellies/slimes has never been easier! ;)
  5. The brittle lead-bismuth alloy Rackham used in their figs.
  6. Kinda boring selection, only suitable for fighting the first battle on Macross Island. Only two destroids ( Missing Phalanx, Spartan and Monster ) No Missle battepods No scout battlepods No zentraedi fighters No sig-int valkyries
  7. We love in one of the most peaceful times of all of history. WW2 only killed 3% of the population of the countries involved. In the ancient middle east, anthropologists estimate that 30% of all deaths was caused by nearly constant warfare. Thats not to say that WW2 wasn't horrible, but relative to the population of the countries involved, the death rate was lower.
  8. Should call it "The Monarch" or "The Viceroy" ;)
  9. Bit of thread necromancy, but even green pods can be used if you dry them in the oven. They need to be full size, but you can pick them green and dry in the oven.
  10. Water based wood stains work well too, as does acrylic washes cut with a 1 part Future to 6-8 parts water.
  11. Use water with a small amount of future acrylic floor finish, about 1 part future to 6-8 parts water. This will dilute the paint, but prevent the dreaded rings when it dries. DO NOT ADD DIRECTLY TO BOTTLE. Future works fine as a wash medium for all acrylic paints I've ever used it with.
  12. I have a Bridge of Sorrows I've been saving for some day when I feel my painting is good enough to do it justice.
  13. Also, what is this? http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/CAV:%20Strike%20Operations/latest/24501 http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/CAV:%20Strike%20Operations/latest/24517 http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/CAV:%20Strike%20Operations/latest/24504 When did CAV become BattleTech? Leave the ugly Crusher Joe / Macross ripoffs and other ugly mechs with with FASA. From the "Bolted together randome euclidean solids" schools of mech design
  14. I agree, the Emperor was one of the best sculpts ever in CAV. We should call the new Emperor the "False Emperor" ;)
  15. What part of "You should consider all money given a donation, and projects may succeed or fail" do people fail to understand? This is venture capital.
  16. I've made small molds via this method, using a jewelers mold frame and vulcanizable mold rubber used for jewelery molds. Works great. Unless your figures have unusually deep cavities, this should work fine. And you can't cast too big of a figure in a 9" mold anyways. A 9" mold should be fine for 28mm figures, and multipart medium sized monsters.
  17. Yes, you need a vulcanizer mold (mentioned above), but you can compress the mold using C-Clamps, and cook them in your oven. Its what Zombiesmith does. The 9" mold frame is the 'can't get it off the shelf' bit.
  18. Been pricing out the custom parts, and I think with the custom hardware needed including a 9" mold frame for vulcanization, building the spincaster will come in at $1500 or so.
  19. PP does their resin in the states, their plastic figures are done in China.
  20. What seattle needs is a gaming store / coffee shop combo. I think it'd work great. Gamers love caffeine. Coffee is relatively 'cheap', so even poor gamers can afford drip black.
  21. So I am thinking benchtop size, 9" mold support, Interior baffles for keeping metal out of the mechanics, a 'lid' and safety interlock for the top.
  22. So would there be any interest in this? I've been wanting my own Spincaster for a while. But the cheapest professional ones are $2500+ (for a small jewelry one), and I've seen the kind of figs that Zombiesmith is capable of producing on their admittedly bare bones homebrew spincaster. So looking on the net, I think it should be pretty easy to build a solid, affordable hobbyist spincaster for <$1500. And then I realized other people may be interested too. So would anyone here be interested? The end result of the kickstarter would be a set of plans/instructions for building your own spincaster, suitable drawings for custom parts, including eMachinshop files ready to go, and extensive build documents, photos, and a howto guide. I'm thinking $2000 basic funding level for the caster supporting 9" molds, with 'stretch' goals including such items as support for 12" molds, Variable Frequency Drive ( Variable spin speed support ), vulcanizing frame plans, even some video tutorials on casting and using it. I think the base 'buy-in' would be $20 for a DVD of the plans/documents. $5+ would get you mentioned as a contributor in the docs. Other higher pledge amounts might include things as a set of the parts you can't buy off the shelf ready to go ( mostly the spindle and mold holder ), or comissioning and casting of a custom figure of your own design.
  23. AFK Tavern in Everett, WA. Nice idea, but service borders on terrible. And Cafe Mox which is next to Card Kingdom in Ballard, WA
  24. The RMS paints are intended for blending / shading, they are not known for uber-covering power. http://www.reapermini.com/Paints/hd RMS HD are intended for quick base coat use.
  25. Scraping for large mold lines, sanding for smaller ones and cleaning up nooks and crannies.
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