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Crusoe the Painter

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Everything posted by Crusoe the Painter

  1. A decent HW store will sell the rechargable 2 speed cordless dremel for around $30. -Daniel
  2. Learn to use a Jewlers saw. Also they make saw blades that fit in exacto knife holders. www.micromark.com carries the xacto saws. Barring that, Dremel sells a small cordless power tool that is perfect for grinding minis. Buy the diamond coated mini bits from micromark, and voila, grind away. -Daniel
  3. They do, eventually, just that a green may be completed MONTHS before it's release. -Daniel
  4. Future Acrylic Floorwax is your friend. With it, you can make all sorts of "wash" and "ink" effects. I use it with thd browns to make flesh washes, etc. -Daniel
  5. Undoubtably like CAV, which had stats already laid on 'cards' in the back of the rulebook ( photocopy, cut n paste to index cards ). And undoubtably like cav, each supplement will add rules and goodies for everyone ( As JOR1, and soon JOR2 will do ). -Daniel
  6. http://www.dagoom.com/usersmanual.htm Okay, this is too cool. Too cool. I mean, you can snap your figs onto and off of bases, you can snap the bases together, and you add extra stat trackers to keep track of other goodies, such as unit morale. He's working on flight stands, and 'command' bases too. I mean, the clicky bases for MK are a good idea. It's much easier than pushing dice around. But the figs suck, and they aren't reusable.... These look sweet! -Daniel
  7. In Cav, all mecha have a stat card with several columns. Each column, the first column is "100% healthy", the last column is "Nearly Dead". As you take damage, you move from one column to the next. So if you've taken 1 pt of damage, you move to column 1, which shows what your 'stats' are now. When you run out of columns, you're dead... :) Cav, Dmg Pts are usually tracked with dice following the miniature. But DaGoom has a stat tracker coming out that you glue the fig on to. It has 3 9 step indicators on it, so technically could handle figs with up to 999 hit points... Hey, maybe Reaper should talk to him! The bases can apparently also snap together to form 'packed' formations w/o the need for trays, or to make longer/wider bases.. www.dagoom.com Holy cow, those are SWEET!!! Hey, these are nifty. Maybe reaper can resell them... If only they made hexes for Cav.... O.o -Daniel
  8. Again folks, remember the scale height does not include the base thickness. So it seems Reaper is 28mm, measured from foot to eyes. But as I have said, it varies from company as to whether it's foot to eye, or foot to top of head. To eye height is favored by most manufacturers, as it negates the problem of measuring a figure's height to head when he's wearing a hat! :) -Daniel
  9. I tend to block in middle tones on the figure first. Just to see if the color scheme will work. Then I block in shadows and hilights. Then I use mixes of my midtones with hilights and shadow to blend the edges of the shadows and hilights. This is good for grunts. I can stop at the blocked in stage, or smooth stuff out. Every time I do it, I get better at it. Anne is right, paint consistency is important. I also find that it's easier to blend a darker color over a lighter one. Block in more light color than needed for hilights, then blend using hilight+midtone. If you try the reverse, it can look chalky. -Daniel
  10. Well, over the years, even "25mm" has varied. It depends if you measure from the top of the head to the feet, or from the eyes to the feet. Given WK's work is 32 mm, makes me suspect he uses the 'eye' method. And as ReaperIvy has stated, the Reaper line is NOT made up of "everyone is 6" tall clones". You'll have tall women, and short clerics... ;) -Daniel
  11. I've got a falcon and 2 spiders, boy those spiders will be SWEET! Fast, count rough terrain as open, come with a IF pack with a AOE of 4"... :D Plus they're short and can get cover just about anywhere. -Danie
  12. No, I was the one who suggested that if the rhino-gator-elephant man greens were to be sold, 100kingdoms would be the most likely buyer, as they have a background that can accept all sorts of weird armies... -Daniel
  13. "C++ is like trying to make an octupus out of a dog by nailing on extra legs." -unknown
  14. If you want to marinate chicken, or use it as a base for your own bar-b-que sauce, or just play with it and see what else it's good for.... Basically, take tarragon flavored white wine vinegar, and sweeten to taste with real Maple Syrup. Tarragon and Maple rock together, it's like a European Sweet and Sour. Marinate your chicken in it, and then when cooking the chicken, and some of the set aside marinade to the plan to make a tarragon-maple glaze.... :9 Throw some fresh tarragon in for taste. Also, if you want fried chicken without the fat, it seems the 2 best spices are tyme, and Parprika. A lil pepper and red chili is good too. I swear, your chicken breast will taste like fried chicken. -Daniel
  15. Uhm, acrylic paint and most primers won't adhere to wax, which cande magic is. Most craft stores sell decorative sand and gravel for use in flower arrangement vases. That stuff works very nicely. -Daniel
  16. Geezus.... www.kalishbrushes.com Same quality as W&N, but 1/4 the price. I own a W&N, and several Kalish, and the Kalish Kolinsky Sable brushes are just as good as the W&N. Try them! You'll LOVE them. -Daniel
  17. 1) Whatever they are using seems to be grainy. It's not dark-green from being pressed in a mold, it appears to be grainy and olive grey. I have no clue what they are using to sculpt the masters. 2) The detail is soft, simplistic, and mushy. The Reaper owl-bear has much more detail in the feathers. The WOTC one looks more like scales. The black guard guy, the armor lines and edges are soft, the pose stiff, and the head/skull looks like a blob. Not the best sculpting work. -Daniel
  18. Given their look, the croc, rhino and elephant warrior would probably be going to Hundred Kingdoms. They'd fit in with some faction or the other. -Daniel
  19. Concrete and Chalk filled bombs are used in training. Smacking 2,000 lbs of concrete into a tank from 20,000 feet will still destroy it, just without the blast wave and crater. If you need to take out 1 weapon, and not the surrounding block, this works great! Again, UK and US ingenuity at work... ;) -Daniel
  20. 1) Pin the wing 2) Use a xacto knife, or file, and roughen up both surfaces that will be glued. Give them a good scraping. Superglue reaches it's maximum strength when applied to 2 clean rough surfaces. -Daniel
  21. There are different kinds of Microns.... 1) Make sure it says "Pigma Micron" on the pen. These use permanent waterproof inks. 2) Make sure the ink is dry before sealing. 3) Testors Dullcote works great, use several light coats to seal a fig. -Daniel
  22. www.kalishfinestbrushes.com Windsor and Newton quality ( or even better! ) at 1/3 to 1/4 the cost! ( A lil more expensive than a good synthetic ). I've owned mine for 4 months now, and no hooks! They're 100% Kolinsky sable! Order from them! -Daniel
  23. 1) Seal your model with Testor Dullcote flat 2) Let it dry COMPLETELY 3) With steady hand, dot in eye using 005 size pigma micron pen. Works everytime! Shading the socket, eyelids, etc, takes a very steady hand with a paintbrush.... -Daniel
  24. Mummy king tomb... Saw this at GenCon 2002, I think it has the following... Sarchophagus, 2 columns, 2 jackal statues, kanopic jars, and uhm, dun know what else. -Daniel
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