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Crusoe the Painter

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Everything posted by Crusoe the Painter

  1. Why care? Just dullcote the fig, and apply gloss sealer where needed. You guys make it seem so hard... ;) -Daniel
  2. Black is fine, if you have paint with loads of pigment. I black primer a lot, and Vallejo game colors work fine over it. -Daniel
  3. 1) Go to michaels or craft store get a empty squeeze bottle with a applicator tip. 2) Slice off enough of the tip to give a good sized hole, about 2x the diam of a pencil lead. 3) Fill with static grass. 4) Dab superglue on model base where you want static grass to stick. 5) Shake the static grass squeeze bottle so it develops charge, and will fuzz up nicely when glued on. 6) Hold your squeeze bottle full of static grass at a steep angle so grass falls into the tip, and puff it out into the glue using firm squeezes. Do this outside, as static grass can irritate the eyes. The puffing will cause it to stand up in nice lil clumps. Keep doing this till the grass is in a nice shape, and no glue is seeping through. 7) Once the glue is cured ( you can safely use accelerator ), use a soft brush to remove any loose static grass from the model/base. 8) Drybrush the grash in different colors for extra fun. Green, light green, and a dirty yellow work well for living and dead clumps of grass. I use this method on all my minis, works great! -Daniel :D
  4. A Straight light color over a straight dark color can look grainy, and not smooth. SO I blend, when it's obvious that thin layers are not enough. -Daniel
  5. Or buy a pigma 005 black pen... <:) I use it for dotting eyes, and blacklining armor seams, etc... -Daniel
  6. Harry Potter in the first movie has minis, though it is hard to get a good look. Rumors are that Reaper minis do appear in one film, and perhaps these are it... Check the scene when Harry goes to bed in his room under the stairs... -Daniel
  7. Well, the face does look a bit rough, but I have 'cleanup' pics coming. The last thing I do is look at the fig, find the bits that are off, and fix them. All colors are vallejo colors. All washes made using a 50/50 mix of water/future. The hair was painted with Filthy Brown, then washed with a mix of Gory Red and Dark Fleshtone to give him a auburn head of hair to contrast the green armor. The eyebrows were then drawn in using the same color. The hair was washed yet again with a thin wash of Dark Fleshtone to bring out the individual strands of hair. The face was basecoated Elf Flesh, washed with a 50/50 mix of Elf Flesh / Dark Fleshtone, and finally the hilights were done with Maiden Flesh. The teeth were picked out in white too. The eyes were painted white, and then dotted in with a 005 black Micron Pigma pen. Whenever you are going to use a pigma pen to draw something on a fig, always seal it first! This provides a surface that it makes it very easy to draw on. Unsealed acrylic is too rubbery to draw on easily. Finally cleanup pics forthcoming... -Daniel
  8. All colors are vallejo game colors. The armor was painted bright Mithril Silver and then washed with several coats of a 50/50 mix of Dark Green / Chaos Black that was thinned with 50/50 water/future. The raised armor areas, and helmet plumes were painted a base color of Glorious Gold. The gold was then given a wash of Chaos Black made with a 50/50 mix of water/future. I tend to paint all base colors first, then add details to each other. So, I'm jumping ahead to explain the rest of the armor here. Nevermind I got more pics to develop showing blacklining and armor, they'll be added to this post.
  9. The model was examined, and any sprues for venting, etc were clipped off. Areas of flash, or mold misalignment were filled down with my diamond coated needle files, and battery powered cordless dremel with diamond bits. The biggest 'problem' areas were around the axe, and the inside of the cloak had a small moldline. Once cleaned, the figs was washed in warm soapy water and dried. It was glued to a medium Warmachine/Dark-Age base prior to priming. The miniature was then primed with Krylon Ultra Flat black spray paint. The can was shook for 3 minutes instead of 2, as this seems to give better pigment coverage. 2 good coats were applied. The miniature was then damp brushed with a medium grey ( it looks white in the photo, but's a medium grey ) -Daniel
  10. Artist chalks work well too. Grind some up into powder on a rough piece of paper or even sandpaper. One can then dip a brush into it and feather/dab it on. This is great for dirt, dust, etc, on vehicles. Dampen the brush slightly, and you can apply it like makeup. Sealer will keep it from rubbing off. Artist chalks come in a wide variety of colors perfect for weathering figures. -Daniel
  11. You need a scanner that has a good depth of field. I know most Epsons do very well. Other than that, it depends on the manufacturer. -Daniel
  12. First roll of film done, expect updates this weekend. I chose a typical elvish scheme of gold and green. The armor was painted silver, then given several light washes of a black-green. Looks very cool. He's all done except for the basework. -Daniel
  13. Cleaned, primed, mounted, and ready to paint. Taking pictures too... -Daniel
  14. I use 800 speed fujifilm. When I used tungsten lights and a blue filter, exposure times were on the order of several seconds... Then, I got a flash, and a diffuser hood that goes over it, and a cable so I can detach the flash, and hold it where I need it. Works great, since flashes put out color corrected light! That, and the Thru-The-Lens light meter on my Nikon, and I've never really had to bracket my exposures... -Daniel
  15. I just glue him to the base, and then use a couple of layes of sand and superglue to build up the base, so he looks like he's standing on a small hillock/rise... <:) Much much faster, and still looks good. -Daniel
  16. The rackham dwarves boxed set comes with a dwarven fire-priest and his little steam powered familiar... -Daniel
  17. I apply a dot of superglue, and smear it around the base with a wire loop. Then I add flock. The superglue dries fast, and allows me to rapidly detail a base. Superglue - smear - add gravel - dot of superglue - add statid grass. Wonderful little grass clumps on a base. -Daniel
  18. There is a rhino, croc, and a balinese/ganesh looking elephant warrior. All three are very intresting minis, the big issue is how well they would sell. At least, that's what I heard from ReaperRon at GenCon 2002. -Daniel
  19. Chunky spray can be caused by high humidty, or high heat ( drying out the primer before it even hits the fig, resulting in lumps ) -Daniel
  20. "Lorem Ipsum Sum" And "Klaatu barada nikto" Are always options... :D +5 Brownie points to anyone who knows the origins of the above phrases. -Daniel
  21. Bones out in the sun turn white. Look at bones from a desert sometime. New bones, or bones buried in the earth with have a slight orange tinge, or be a lil brownish. Real fresh bones will be pinkish from clinging tissue and blood supply. -Daniel
  22. Castrol Super Clean will strip the paint off Mage Knight figs, and is plastic safe too. I find they each have their uses. For heavy coats of gloss sealer, and enamels, nothing beats Natural Turpenoid. -Daniel
  23. Well, I have to say my flash with the diffuser hood is a smashing success. -Daniel
  24. Synthetics will always curl. Kolinsky red sable brushes are nice, but expensive, at least when bought from Windsor and Newton (Series 7). Now, there is someone who makes a VERY NICE Kolinsky brush for 1/3-1/4 the cost.... Kalish Finest Brushes Very nice HANDMADE brushes containing kolinsky sable. I own a W&N series 7 000 and a Kalish Series 7 000. They look exactly the same. The W&N cost me $16, the Kalish cost me $4. Wonderful brushes! Reaper needs to sell these in their store! -Daniel
  25. I don't know about inks being higher pigmented than paints. Most inks these days are just really runny acrylic paints ( Acrylic inks DO exist ). Heck, it's the Scabby Red, or Gorey Red Vallejo game color that has the same COLOR as the GW red ink ( and their red ink is not entirely water insoluble when dry ). Nevermind that I have to DILUTE the pigment in the Vallejo game color to get to that GW ink color. The big kicker is that most inks are transparent, but this largely a function of the pigment. There are many acrylic colors that are transparent too when diluted. I don't buy the "More concentrated pigment" argument anymore. ( Same goes for the liquitex colors ). If you are looking for transparent washes, then just test which paints are transparents, and use these for your 'inks'. I still reccomend Future floorwax though... <:) -Daniel
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