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Crusoe the Painter

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Everything posted by Crusoe the Painter

  1. I actually go through the dictionary, and look up the root words to modern words. I once played a Elven Operator in RIFTS ( I was young and foolish! ). Operators are jacks of all trades when it comes to electronics and tech. So, It went like this... He has a Technical Mind... Hm, Mind -> Brain... Look up brain... from OE Braegen. Twist Technical to Lakin Ket ( Teknikal backwards ) So, he became Braegen Lakin-Ket -Daniel
  2. Fantization.com has a article on painting their "Fantization the Wizard" figure by Jennifer Haley. Very nice NMM techniques shown. -Daniel
  3. Hey Nym! So that was you! Erf! I wasn't certain, so I didn't introduce myself. I was the guy who ran the painting contest, and was offering to paint a fig for Kai. -Daniel
  4. Ooo! Sounds great, I love the artwork for the powered armor! Psyros in AICOM, please! ;) -Daniel
  5. Even without the "vector movement" system, and using the "cinematic movement" system, I love how full thrust forces you to think ahead, estimate your enemy's next move, and decide on how best to commit your forces. Man, I love the FSU ships, scads of fighters, and swarms of torps! Nothing like torching a enemy battleship on the first turn with a well planned torp barrage! That said, I wish the minis were easier to come by. It's action packed, and yet has that necessary uncertainty of controlling huge lumbering ships... <:) -Daniel
  6. Superglue removers usually turn the superglue into sticky goo. The advantage of Simple Green or Brake Fluid is that it merely attacks the join between the glue and the metal. After a few days, you can snap the joints loose, and pop the superglue off like a little piece of plastic. No goo! Same is true of Epoxy. -Daniel
  7. First off, Jpeg is fine if used for web files, and some things are observed. 75% quality level works just fine for JPGS. I store all my images at that resolution, and I rarely see any graininess, or anything. 75% quality shrinks a 1-2 megabyte ( a photo scanned at 100-120 dpi, ending at about 600x600) file to 60k or so. Be sure you use Jpeg to save your file, and that it's set to 75% quality setting. Another note, the quickest way to color correct a scan or image is to use the "levels" control. This is available in Photoshop and Gimp. Use the "auto" feature to quickly clean up color in an image, then adjust further. I've never had problems with saving Jpegs causing the colors of the file to shift. I'd suspect a bug in the software in that case. -Daniel
  8. Simple green is about $7 for a large bottle. Available in the cleaning or automative sections of Walmart and Target... -Daniel
  9. Brake Fluid and Simple Green have the same active ingredients. Polyethoxyethylene. Natural Turpenoid is great too, even strips enamels! -Daniel
  10. Simple green and Brake fluid will barely darken minis, and they work better than Pine Sol. Trust me, I've tried them all... <:) Natural Turpenoid will darken them somewhat... -Daniel
  11. The silks and satins are just pearlescents. -Daniel
  12. Brake fluid and Simple green will soften epoxy after a few days to a week of soaking. They also won't harm plastics. The new ultimate paint stripper ( and awesome brush cleaner ) I've found is "Natural Turpenoid". It's amber colored and can be found in the art brush/paint area of michaels. It will even strip ENAMEL off figs. It's also the best brush cleaner and conditioner I've used, even on acrylics. -Daniel
  13. I'm not a big fan of Reaper Paints, but ONE THING I'd buy is a thinner formulation of the Liquitex interference colors. These are colors that show TWO different shades depending on the light angle. Orange-blue Red-Green, etc... I don't know how easy it is to find the pigment, but these colors give WICKED effects when added to inks and other paints. Jacard makes a line of dry interference powder pigments, and I have added these to paint. They come in more colors than Liquitex offers. -Daniel GIVE US INTERFERENCE COLORS! <:)
  14. Lady Tam: Well, uhm, think leather straps, chains ( bondage gear ), anything to keep a person from easily moving their arms and legs about. Useful in tying up pesky spellcasters, and, uh, adding spice to the bedroom! :D -Daniel
  15. I once found a link for wall hanging plexiglass cabinets, some hyooge, and originally intended for model cars. They're reasonably priced too. Buuut, I never really liked how they looked. I'm starting work on a personal project for a "Fantasy Shelving System". -Daniel
  16. NB, the hardest colors to see at night are reds ( from brick to pastel red ). Rumor is US special forces have a red camo for night ops... :D -Daniel
  17. Do not use Ceramcoat Color Float, it takes forever to dry out. I use Future Acrylic FLoor wax for making washes ( 1 part future, 2-3 parts water ) and the folkart extender when I need to do blending... -Daniel
  18. Yes, because Future Acrylic floor wax/finish is a gloss acrylic medium. And it destroys surface tension too. I'd rather add it than soap to acrylics for washing... That said, a lot of art inks are just real thin acrylic paints these days. Thus they are water-safe, and will not bleed. But since they are thinned acrylic, why not just thin your paints from the start? <:) The same can not be said of GW inks, the red ink bleeds like mad. If yer gonna use inks, then be sure that... 1) They are waterproof and ideally acrylic based, check the jar. 2) Buy them at the art store, usually found in the calligraphy dept. The GW inks are far from spectacular, and the calligraphic inks have lots of intresting options. -Daniel
  19. The Bob Smith Industries CA glues are very nice, Maxi Cure lists about a dozen-plus surfaces it can stick to. And stick it does. I bought a epoxy once that said it stuck to Pewter, and it does, but I need to break out the tube from somewhere. I hate trying to hold stuff as the epox cures. Another VERY cool epoxy I found was a CA based epoxy, methylmethacrylate. Very hard bonding, very fast curing, basically it's a CA gel with a gel accelerator. Epoxy is only about 50% as strong as CA on the same surfaces. It's just that Epoxy usually can bond more things together. That said, go to your local hobby store, and look up the BSI line of products. -Daniel
  20. Drybrushing has it's uses for hair, and other rough surfaces... The Future acrylic floorwax doesn't break surface tension, so much as add acrylic emulsion back in to the paint. When you dilute paint, you dilute the binder. Future is acrylic binder, add that to paint, and no more bad washes... :) -Daniel
  21. Paint your basecoat ( itermediate color between your final shade and hilight color ). Then, block in your base coat, and your hilights, Don't worry about blending, just rough them in. Do any cleanup that's needed. Then, thin your basecoat color (skim milk ), and mix with some of your hilight or shade, And use this to blend the transitions on the hilights/shades as appropiate. Use thin paint, and just keep doing this step. -Daniel
  22. Krylon white sandable spray primer is Da Bomb. They also make a black version, and several other colors, but they are IMPOSSIBLE to find. For black primer, I use Krylon ultra-flat spray paint. Works like a charm. -Daniel
  23. The BEST glue I've used is "Bob Smith Industries" Maxi-Cure. They sell to hobby shops as a OEM. ( the hobby can send BSI a label to put over the bottle ). It comes in a translucent squeezable bottle, with a metallic raspberry red label. It's gap filling, has a good setting time ( not too fast or slow ) and bonds hard. One thing, super glues bond best on freshly roughened surfaces. So use a knife point, emery paper, or a file to roughen surfaces before gluing. After I found this out, I rarely have glue bonds break anymore.... <:) BSI also makes an accelerator called "insta-set" which has 2 good things going for it... 1) it smells like bad strawberry room freshener ( which is better than the dead fish smell of most accelerators ) 2) it's safe on paint/sealer. So you can paint pieces seperately, then glue them together w/o worrying about the accelerator ruining the paint. -Daniel
  24. Paladin A paladin is a holy warrior, favored by his patron god with certain gifts and abilities that are usually associated with that god. A god of Law may grant his followers special powers against evil creatures, such as attacks that cause more damage against them, or the ability to turn undead. A paladin of a healing god may have the ability to heal others, etc.... One can be an evil-paladin too, by following an evil god. Most paladins also have to follow certain edicts, established by their religion/god, such as "No alcohol" or "use only blunt weapons". If they break this edict ( also known as a Gaeas ) then they may lose their special powers, and often have to go on a pilgrimage and seek redemption in the eyes of their patron diety. One doesn't have to break a Gaeas to lose favor either. Just acting outside the religious or social dictates of the religion long enough may see a paladin stripped of his powers. Most RPG players rarely play a paladin right... <:) Because of the requirements of having to follow religious edicts, and laws, Paladins are most often of Lawful alignment ( lawful good/evil ). A ranger is a survivalist. Usually, a expert tracker, quickfooted, experienced with surviving in a given type of terrain. They may have extensive knowledge of the local fauna, and their behaviours. Rangers are often skilled at fighting, and using the bow or other hunting weapons. Seeing as plate armor may hinder their dexterity, and isn't good for moving quietly through the land, rangers usually are lightly armored. In D&D, rangers often pick one animal/monster/creature that they are specialists at tracking and hunting. -Daniel
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