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Crusoe the Painter

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Everything posted by Crusoe the Painter

  1. For lighting I use 3 cheap gooseneck halogen lamps, you can buy them at target... Flashes are 'clean' light though, so I am trying out my diffuser hood for my flash now. Given that the diffuser area is bigger than the mini, I should'n have any problem with shadows... -Daniel
  2. ReaperIvy: Professional digital photorigs are about $5000 a piece. At say 5-7 megapixel, you can do great looking 8x10 prints... <:) I don't have 5k to blow. The entry level DX100 by Nikon can take Nikkor lenses ( a big PLUS ), is multi megapixel ( 4 m I think ). It's also ONLY $1000... ;) Digital wise, the problem is that unless you pay big bucks, they can't take lenses or use flashes that would make them useful in more areas. Camera that can take scads of Nikkor lenses, and other goodies, $299 for body... Digital camera that is okay if you shoot in only well lit rooms, with decent zoom/etc that can't take filters, or anything else. $400. Mind you, the coolshot is nice... http://daniel.a.joyce.home.att.net/images/FirstPlace.jpg This photo was shot on Fuji 800 speed film with a Nikkor macro lens on a N65 body... -Daniel That said, I just got a BEEG christmas check, and that DX100 is looking nice now..... >.<
  3. Craft stores have this stuff called "Fun Foam" which comes in sheets, and has a matte finish. I lay it on the table, and then use something to prop the sheet up and behind the miniature. I find Teal and Blue work well, it doesn't mess up the automatic photoprocessors, and I like the results. http://daniel.a.joyce.home.att.net/images/FirstPlace.jpg This image was shot on such a background. Being matte, it doesn't reflect light, nor cause glare. I've found that white washes things out, and black will cause shadows to be too dark when the film is developed. The photoprocessors try to compensate for image brightness automatically, and this causes problems. teal or blue both look nice, and I've never had a problem with the image being blue tinted. If anything, it's been yellow from the halogen lights (which is why I got a lens filter). That image is a lil blue tinted from the lens filter. The lamps I was using were incandescent, and the halogen blue filter is a lil too blue for it. I should have color corrected it better. I just got a diffuser hood for my flash, and I took some picks using bounce lighting, etc. I'll let ya know how it comes out. -Daniel
  4. Yes! There is! www.mmga.org, next meeting starts at 10am at the Coon Rapids VFW, Jan 18th. There is a painting contest, and demo too! Lots of games there too! Hotts is another popular wargaming system for armies. So stop by, try some systems, and make friends! I'll be selling some of my older painted figs, and I'll be helping with the judging in the painting contest. -Daniel
  5. As long as their displacer beast for chainmail is not the split-down-the middle kind that was the normal AD&D figs. NB, a lot of the Chainmail figs are seeing release as D&D figs now... Also, Reaper has a displacer beast coming out, saw it in the latest game catalog... They call it a "Phase Cat" though... :D -Daniel
  6. They're a retailer for decorations from China. They produce stuff for all the year's holidays. I have a set of glowing skulls from Halloween, need to finish up the evil temple/cairn... :) They don't have a web address, and my search for their real address hasn't worked to well either. Another company in texas makes a set of flocked foam 'rocks' (to look like moss covered rocks I guess ), that make great hills. -Daniel
  7. Well, usually I just paint the shades and the stark hilights on the cloak, then go from there. Take your hilight color, and shade color, and blend together. Using water/future floor wax thin it down a bit. Then apply this intermediate shade to the area between the hilight and the shade. Add shade or hilight color as needed and keep doing this till it's blended away... -Daniel
  8. I've used the metal primers in a pinch. They smell exactly the same as GW smelly primer, and Ral Partha paint on primer... :) That said, they dry with a glossy sheen which I don't like... -Daniel
  9. Nikon N65, I use Aperature Priority mode. I set the aperature ( f stop ) and the camera sets the exposure time accordingly. At f 27 or so, the exposure times indoors can be several seconds. Using this, I've taken very nice flash pictures of minis at cons. I usually use a setup of 3 lamps to blend out shadows, and don't use the flash when taking mini pics at home. -Daniel
  10. Quick Note... The wood elves are being redone currently too, and the new army book is not out yet. If you are goin to play them in WHFB, wait till the new stuff is out. -Daniel
  11. It's hard to describe. It's cool.... It's not really metallic, or pearlescent. Nevermind mixing interference colors with flourescent paints for really bizzare colors... >.< That said, the Vallejo Game Color metallics are VERY nice. -Daniel
  12. I've used Vallejo almost exclusively. The only thing is their main line requires a bit of thinning, as the acrylic is thicker than ideal for mini painting. The pigment loads more than make up for it though... That said, they've released a line of paints dedicated to miniature painting, called "GAME COLORS". These paints are very thin, yet still have their high pigment loads. They're designed to adhere well to plastics and metal. The colors are bright, and intended for SF/Fantasy figs. They also mirror the colors found in the GW paint line. Great line of paints. -Daniel
  13. Well, with vallejo, I've never had a problem painting light colors over black... Thing is, if you miss a spot, it shows up with white primer. But it's not noticeable with black primer. For speed painting, black is best, and it's quite easy to use bright colors, if you build up your shades first... -Daniel
  14. For cool effects, buy some of the two-tone interference colors that Liquitex sells, and the plain dry interference pigments that Jaquard sells. Interference green + green paint, and Interference blue + black paint are wicked. -Daniel
  15. Monique is great. And so is Judas, from the warlord line. A very Vampire Hunter D, Dietrich looking vampire. -Daniel
  16. The lumpier stuff is good for modeling clumps of moss, lichen, or dirt stuck to things... <:) -Daniel
  17. Just got my Holiday Sophies in! They're GREAT figs! Great detail, expressive hands, very nice face ( I think Werner is rubbing on Sandy a lil ). I got 4 of the chimney Sophie figs. Everything looks great, the face, the hands, everything. Great figs, good job reaper peeps! ( I don't think any OTHER miniature company has a die-hard group of fans like Reaper does. I've been to gencon twice, and I've yet to see the crowds that reaper has around their booth. This is among TRUE miniature companies, WK doesn't count... ;) Ron, and the guys/gals are a super bunch of folks, and have put up with yammering at Gencon several times. Ask them nice, and they might tell ya where they go to hang out for a beer after the floor closes at night... -Daniel
  18. My biggest beef with Mize is that all his women have the same #### faces. They're all clones! Next to that are the over long monkey-length arms on some of his figures. Look at the babarian dude and chick... -Daniel
  19. I've seen photos of the first 2 greens. Dennis does good detail work, and these are chock full of it. But the woman has the typical Dennis Mize woman look with the weird cheeks and chin... >.< That said, Tom Meier is coming back into the miniatures fold, and will be making some figs too! If any of you have seen his RP stuff, he is good. There will be other sculptors, and other artists profiled in the line too. Plus, a line of monsters. -Daniel
  20. The guy who is making them is local to here. I've talked to him. Sadly, Denise Mize is doing most of the pieces. All the faces of his women look the same. So the female pieces based off of Elmore's work will all look like clones... ;) -Daniel
  21. Actually, there is a british maker of red metallic paint, they produced the old GW paint line, but I can't remember their name right now... >.< They also have metallic greens, etc... -Daniel
  22. Vallejo makes a dark maroon that is perfect for shading red, or as dried blood. -Daniel
  23. The lizard men are from the Malapongo jungle on Adon. Excuse my spelling, but that's approximate.... IIRC, the background was in a old edition of Casket Works. -Daniel
  24. Well, a Quanaray x2 lens doubler will do the job somewhat... It's cheap, around $75, and you can get some decent pics with that and a standard lens. That said, My Nikkor Macro was about $400... ( the N65 I use is only $360... >.< ) My flash has 2 flash models on it, a small direct flash, and one I can angle and turn. So when shooting figs in booths and gencon, the small flash provided direct light, and I bounced main flash off my hand. Worked pretty well. -Daniel
  25. Cheap sewing needles make great stand poles. Stiff, hard, and will not bend, you need a good pair of pliers to cut them down though. Make each rod a lil different in height to give them some variation... -Daniel
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