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Crusoe the Painter

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Everything posted by Crusoe the Painter

  1. 4-10 feet is the minimum distance you can shoot and have it remain in focus. WAAY too long for macrophotography ( IE, photographing small things close up ). There should be some numbers proceded by a "f" for f-stop. At close ranges, you need a HIGH f stop to get the necessary depth of field. But at high f-stops, you need a flash, or long (several second ) exposure times. Is it a film camera? I have a nikon N65 with a Nikkor macro, I can put it within 6 inches or so of a mini and have the mini fill the entire frame. At these settings, I use 2-3 small desktop halogen lamps to provide enough light. I could use my flash, but that gives really stark shadows behind the fig. The lamps help blend them out. ( with my lense doubler and the macro, I can make the mini's HEAD fill most of the frame... ) Basically, the fig is about 6 inches from the lense, I use a minimum f-Stop of 22, and the exposure times are about 1-2 seconds at the longest. I also use a blue filter to color adjust the halogen lamp. The above photo setup was used to take the following picture of GenCon painting winner Jen Haley's entry... http://daniel.a.joyce.home.att.net/images/FirstPlace.jpg NB, I have a CD of all the painting contest winners available... I can use the flash, and I use it at GenCon to take pics of the display booth items. Buuut, everything behind the mini comes out black. I'll need to get a small slave flash to do backfill lighting... -Daniel
  2. My online gallery is at http://daniel.a.joyce.home.att.net IE is broke, so it may render a lil funny, but should still work. That said, all the figs there are painted in the manner I've described, using feathering, etc. What determines how well the look is the amount of care I put into the feathering/blending. Pale/grey/blue/etc flesh. I like the vallejo pastels and their greyish colors for this. Ubdercoat with the color of your choice, then hilight with pale flesh. For a nice undead/drow/etc look. -Daniel
  3. I don't know if the Skoli were powerful magic users. Just that final battle at the Skoli capital used massive amounts of magic (probably both sides goin full tilt ), and that caused the blasted besiac wastes. -Daniel
  4. I've yet to find a masking fluid that works with painted acrylic on metal. It always seems to peel the paint up when removed... Anyone know of a good one? -Daniel
  5. 1) use a retarder, you can then feather and blend the edges together without using so many thin coats. 2) Try laying down a 'bead' of paint, IE, thicker in the middle than at the edges. With retarder in it, and thinned with water. When dry, this forms an instant shading, since the pigment is more concentrated in the center... <:) 3) Blending works best using dark over lighter colors. I paint the shadows, then the stark hilights, then use a mix of the shadow-hilight paint to feather out the edges. With retarder, the paint dries to a gel before drying hard, and you can push it around and feather it. I don't use 10 coats, I use maybe 3-4 transitional shades at the most. Basically, don't fret about the hilights and the shadows, fret about where the two appear next to each other. That is what needs to be blended. -Daniel
  6. This whole thing with the 'broccoli' bases is the reason I chided Reaper Ron about the bases at GenCon 2001. Obviously the move towards slotta-bases in the Warlord was inspired by my rant. :laugh: Yes, you have me to thank for this! :D I am of course being silly. I don't know if it's true or not, but me and several painters at Gencon did complain how hard it was to remove the old style bases... Ron's response was that he uses a wheel grinder to grind them off... "Yes Ron, that's nice, but I live in an apartment." I don't know how much our collective rants had in making Reaper decide to use slots for the Warlord line, but a hearty THANK YOU is duly sent! -Daniel
  7. The big bottles are $9, but there are sets of three 1.5 oz bottles. usually 2 metallics + a patina/shading solution. The shading solutions are worthless, but the patina solution actually chemically causes the metals to patina/rust. The sets are $7. They're thick, maybe a hair thicker than vallejo, but they thin with water. They are acrylic based. I'll whip up a skele, and show you guys how it looks. I'll see if I can get my webcam to take a good pic... -Daniel
  8. Several mini addicts talked to Reaper about this at Gencon, and Ron said it was a good idea, for such things as swapping items on wizards, dungeon loot, etc.... Such things like wands, staves, flaming swords, etc... So don't be suprised if it gets done sometime... <:) -Daniel
  9. They're called "Sophisticated finishes" and contain real ground up metal in them . You can get 1 ounce sizes, they have incredible covering power, and get this, you can age and patina them! There is a Bronze and Brass set, which comes with a patina solution ( real patina ), and a iron set that comes with a solution to make it rust. So I paint up the plate on a Uruk-Hai, undercoated with bronze, drybrushed silve, then shaded with a light coat of iron. Then I applied the patina material, and man, it looks like worn, gritty, beatten up metal! -Daniel
  10. Okay, re-reading the book again... Finally reading it again, found it last night. Well, It seems they only overtook Hakir/Jalahandra/the Adon desert at most. The sack of Besiac, the Skoli capital turned the desert into an even more blighted area. Nothing lives or survives in the surrounding areas. Big magical showdown and battle. The info is scattered throughout the book, on the map page, and the pages for Hakir and Jalahandra. The fall of Besiac marks the transition from the Old Age to the New Age, OA year 0 is the fall of Besiac. -Daniel
  11. OMG! </aol> Well, seems Reaper knew what we wanted before we wanted it. Yessir, Sophie coming down the chimney to deliver presents to all the naughty boys and girls... Well, she IS a succubus! Anyways, the greens rock, some killer figs guys! -Daniel
  12. Well, from the old DHA game, there is some Skoli background. Basically, they formed a massive empire over most of the continent. Their magic was powerful, and often vile. They enslaved all the other races. One day, a rebellion took place, and in the midst of this, a great cataclysm occured. Most of the skoli were wiped out ( actually, according to game, for all purposes, they're extinct ). Their magic is apparently the root ancestor of most necromantic magic in DH.
  13. Well, the absolute minimum colors are.... White, Black, Red, Yellow, Blue, and Silver and Gold metallics. From these you can mix just about anything else. <:) Since browns are used a lot though, and mixing a good flesh tone can be tricky, plus it's nice to have the secondary colors, the best 'all around' set is... White, Black, Red, Yellow, Blue, Orange, Purple, Green, Silver, Gold a Orangey-brown ( burnt sienna ), perfect for mixing with fleshtones to shade them, and for leather, can be made darker by adding black a midtone fleshtone, which you can lighten and darken for skin. This will do nearly anything you'll need, with some mixing.
  14. This is the second post I've seen asking about mouldy paint/inks. The other one was on the Theminiaturespage.com forums. Mold, like bacteria, can eat nearly anything for food. It's why hairsprays, shampoos and cosmetics all have anti-spoilage stuff in them ( isochlorothiazolinone is one commonly seen on shampoo bottles ). Acrylic paints and inks are a suspension of organic material in water. As such, they could potentially 'spoil'. Undoubtably most paints thus would have preservatives in them. Maybe reaper had a bad batch? I doubt you can rescue the paint. The fuzz on the surface is only part of the problem. Undoubtly, the fungus has sent mycorhizzae down into the paint to feed. It's probably a bit gloppy/stringy now. Throw it out, and contact reaper for a replacement. They probably need to adjust the amount of preservatives in the paint. -Daniel
  15. Chaz Elliot, a miniature sculpting god uses nose oil. ( i met him at Gencon, watched him sculpt, it was a total guru experience, other sculptors say the same about him ) Take your tool as you sculpt, and wipe it on your nose. It picks up a thin layer of the body's natural oil. And noses being oily, are a continous source of this. Jewelers use nose oil to lubricate parts when assembling the mechanics in old watches. It REALLY works. It's not too much, or too little. -Daniel
  16. I'm the guy who made that post #38... <:) I've tried all sorts of primer. I've used Krylon Ultra Flat Black, Sandable white primer, and gloss sealer as priming agents... Yes, the smooth surface gives great shiney metals, and it does even out the rough spots making blending easier ( Note that gloss primer is acrylic, so acrylic paint bonds to it very well when dry ). I use black for speed painting. I may try black+ a light coat of gloss for future painting tries... -Daniel
  17. Kam... How does it change? Huh? If I say 2 Shots per every turn, and the turn scale is 4 seconds, or 4 minutes, or 4 hours, how does it change in terms of the game you are playing? If I say you can move 4 inches a turn, again, how does it change anything. So just come up with your own scale that produces 'reasonable' numbers... <:) If 4 seconds yields 2000 mph, than 80 seconds/turn yields a more reasonable 50mph... ;) -Daniel
  18. I think both Balabek and the highlander dude are supposed to be BIG BEEFY guys. Kinda like Goliath. But the problem is, all of Dennis Mize's other figures are too tall too. The norsewoman warrior, and the elf city guard are almost a head taller too. -Daniel
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