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Everything posted by mikem91

  1. TBF, it's also the first KS they've fulfilled in the new building. Lessons learned from previous KS fulfillments may not apply at the new building.
  2. At times I still think about a bucket of brown liner. Realistically 4-8oz bottles. But I also understand that it's creating basically a new product line, with new packaging, probably requiring new machines..... generally something entirely not-cheap(tm) to do. I suspect it's not economically prudent.
  3. I hate to dim that smile even a little, but be aware that the prices will not be at the kickstarter level; they'll be higher than kickstarter, yet lower than retail from what we've been told. KS5.5 is going to be a last chance for the people who didn't put anything into their pledge manager to do so. If they still haven't after 90 days or so, their pledge will be considered a donation. New backers and old backers are welcome to place orders (i'm not sure that's the right word) as well at the KS5.5 prices. Reaper will take all those minis requested and then place an order in with the factory. There are limits to minimum order sizes, so Reaper is only selecting items they think will exceed the minimum orders. There are also several caveats. It's supposed to open July 5, so watch for the announcement from Reaper. They'll do a better job laying out the framework than I can manage.
  4. I'll dogpile on Ginfritters. I've used them personally and they're quite good.
  5. hooray! according the the twitch q&a, i'm likely going to be delayed 🙂 i wonder if we could make a forum badge for that? TBH, i'm not concerned about the potential (likely) delay. a couple of weeks won't do anything except delay the dopamine hit of unpacking, sorting, and taking inventory of the box.
  6. For miniature games, I'm usually bringing enough for the table. And maybe the next table over. I've lots of minis and lots of terrain. For RPGs, I tend to be a guest player. I'll have minis for my character, including companions and mounts. I may have maps or terrain if the characters controls significant recurring vehicles. If I'm asked to bring something terrain wise, I'd be happy to do so. As it was noted above, even the request gives out information that the gm may not want to share.
  7. TBF, I wasn't speaking for anyone else or saying their anxious feelings were irrational or offering comfort. I was explaining my basis for why I'm not overly concerned about the delivery of Reaper's KS. Just speaking about me. Not about anyone else. Let's keep the straw golem off the table. A couple of months late on KS delivery is pretty common with KS. I've had some KS turn out to be frauds, some only partially deliver. Reaper's communications has been awesome on all their kickstarters. They may be late, but I know where they are.
  8. I'm ok with hubs shipping as they are ready. I'm not in a race. I'm Wave 3. I was in early and should have made Wave 1, but KS was having credit card processing issues and delayed me. A petty part of me is angry about missing Wave 1. The minis will arrive when they arrive. I'll follow their tracking anxiously, but I'm not concerned about other backers getting their stuff first. It's not like I don't have a table full of minis being painted and a considerable backlog of stuff. The thing I'm looking for most is 9328 black indigo.
  9. Vallejo texture paste is really cool - better than the citadel technical paints in many ways. The Vallejo is basically paint and texture together and is like a thin peanut butter. Huge Miniatures makes a product similar to the vallejo texture paste, but in smaller jars. I've not tried that yet, but it looks pretty similar. If you're really on a budget (have lots of minis....), wood filler isn't a bad route either. Doctor Faust did a video on that and a couple of other techniques. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijED-Sh0ThQ Actual sand can be used, but the scale doesn't look quite right to me. I'll keep the baking soda/CA technique in mind. I've not tried that yet.
  10. For the bubbles by the nozzle, check your gaskets there. By cranking down on the fittings with pliers, you may have crushed the gaskets. Since you can sent water through the brush without problems all day long, I don't think it's a pressure loss. You might have paint getting somewhere it's not supposed to be, the paint may be too thick. You could try some needle juice on the needle, but a newish airbrush shouldn't need that unless you took sandpaper to it.
  11. I think this might run afoul of posting commercial links. The forum thread about the kickstarter should be ok and should give you what you need. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/90717-secret-weapon-miniatures-pre-painted-bases-kickstarter-relaunch/&tab=comments#comment-1927012
  12. Secret Weapon had/has a kickstarter for textured bases that were/are quite nice. Their molds just got delivered a couple of weeks back. Their pledgemanager is still open for the next short period of time.
  13. With that info, it definitely sounds like paint issues. Tip drying is fairly common - I think it's been mentioned earlier in the thread. If when you're clogged, you have goop on your needle tip, try adding some flow improver to the mix (sparingly - 1 drop per cup full). My advise at this point would be to shake the crap out of your stynylrez, then (using a mixing cup), cut it 50-50 with water to start with. Try sending that through the brush. It's likely to come out watery. Then, adjust for thicker paint in small steps until you get something that goes through your brush easily yet provides good coverage.
  14. Yeah, that's a lot of bubbles. It looks like you're losing pressure on the quick release. That's not a huge surprise. If you remove the quick release, you'll get rid of that pressure loss. You do have pressure loss around the nozzle. Assuming the needle is in and engaged, that does seem to be a lot of pressure loss there. Though, with the trigger in that position, you shouldn't have any air going into the airbrush. Did you run air through the brush before taking the photo? Pliers though is probably overkill. Usually you should be able to just finger tighten things and then the gaskets take care of the rest. Overtightening can actually be detrimental. Will the brush eventually fail even after spraying just water? If that's the case, it's definitely pressure loss. If it's just paint/primer causing the fail, you have a needle drying issue. I suspect it's a little of both.
  15. 40psi and a large needle could just about move peanut butter through an airbrush (hyperbole). something is up either with the brush or the paint/primer. the soapy water for leaks is a good place to start. take the brush apart next time it's clogged. where is it getting clogged? my guess would be you're getting drying around the head cap and the nozzle. try some flow improver. you need very little (like 1 drop per cup full of paint). it's like jet dry in your dishwasher -- it makes the paint less likely to stick to the airbrush.
  16. I try to thin things down at least a little bit for an airbrush. Especially vallejo. I even thin stynylrez about 4:1 water and a drop of flow improver. This page: https://myairbrushcompressors.com/10-airbrush-problems-and-solutions/ has a really good "why is my airbrush sucking" cards. https://www.myairbrushcompressors.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Airbrush-spray-pattern.jpg if you look at what's coming out of the airbrush and moderate accordingly to the suggestions on the card.
  17. Clear 25mm / 40mm / 55mm rounds. either flat or beveled. The Line of Fire bases that corvus belli is making with line of fire marks molded into the base are cool too, but i suspect they might have IP protection. Regardless, they're REALLY specialized bases and aside from CB games may not have much appeal.
  18. Sort of on a whim and sort of trying to support a business who I like, I ordered a vex airbrush compressor. I already had a small cup vex. Putting the two together would be a good test. I've previously been using my Paasche D3000R (another good compressor). The packaging was good and the compressor arrived aok. There's some cardboard to remove from inside the shield and some Styrofoam spacer protecting the top. Included in the box was two hoses one long (~10'), one short (~5'). I wasn't expecting the 5' one and might have been a packing error since it's not listed as being included. The shield around the compressor is sturdy with a pre installed Reaper logo sticker. The shield has plenty of room for other stickers -- this is a treat since I don't usually put stickers on things. The shield sort of demands it. There are two airbrush holders on the top as well as a carrying handle. My small cup vex fit without an issue. Any similarly laid airbrushes should as well. Siphon feeds or side feeds probably will not fit well in the holders. The switch isn't where I expected it to be - it's over on the right hand side of the compressor motor. The compressor turns on and off as needed when on. The fittings and the hose and the vex fit together without need for any adapters. It's not surprising they'd be able to make it so, but it's a nice bit anyways. The compressor is pretty strong, quickly gets up to 58psi or so (by default). There's a regulator to dial that down to more normal (i hope) pressures. There's also a water trap and a drain on the tank as well to round things out. I'm pleased with the compressor and recommend it.
  19. I did some research as I was curious, and gifted the one I'd painted. The data card for the guardian beast lists it's base size as giant. Giant translates into a 50mm (2") base. 2" is what I'd remembered it being, but 50mm is close to 40mm; that's what trigger my curiosity. One thing to notice is the guardian beast is based diagonally. It's sprue is longer than 50mm. Again, I don't have one handy, but the sprue is probably around 60mm or so. It won't fit on a 2" round and would need a 70-80mm round base.
  20. i've been able to get ok results from their monsters. but characters? yikes. i look at them and just get sad. it's like they dip them in primer - and i've not had success stripping the primer and starting over. it seems the solvents i've tried will also eat the adhesive and separate the parts. i don't know. i think you've inspired me to take a crack at the characters again to see if i can get something i'd be happy with.
  21. I'll second the kudos on the weathering. Excellent!
  22. The final result looks much better than I imagined it could. Nicely done. TBH though, I'd still be irked at the texture even though it's much smoother than it started.
  23. I had bought a steel mini from heroforge. I couldn't make it look appealing because of the texture. Even gap filling primer was unable to get me even a remotely smooth surface. I wish you luck and hope you find something that works you can share.
  24. DW terrain is pretty, but rather difficult in execution. Transport, setup, and takedown are all less than trivial tasks. Creating a couple of encounter areas takes a surprising number of pieces. I've a number of the older (pre-kickstarter) sets. They are awesome. Though I've used them maybe twice. I do like the look of them, and wouldn't turn down a chance to play on one, but I don't have a place I can pre-setup dwarven forge and leave it for undetermined amounts of time. Now, if I had one of those tables with the sunken area that you could cover, I think I'd get more miles out of it.
  25. I've watched videos of this done, but haven't done this myself. https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/how-to-color-clear-epoxy-resin/ There are specific additives for epoxies that are best, but acrylic paints are pretty well reviewed as well. The above link I hope is a good resource to start with.
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