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About slop_artist

  • Birthday 04/07/1908

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  1. Ha-Ha!! It is "I" - Double Entendre Man! *flourishes cape* Er... well... uh... What in the ... ?! Er... I think I'll just move along quietly... I have nothing to add. I'm clearly out of my league here.
  2. I am shocked! I cannot believe you all would have the audacity - to beat me to the jokes! Shame on you PurityThruFire! Shame on you Beowulfthehunter! To answer Lord Wehrmacht: "Roofies."
  3. I'm looking forward to seeing your work PTF. No pressure though. Nope, none at all. No pressure what-so-ever! None. Nada.
  4. I personally like "Flat" ferrules for dry-brushing. The ones I use most often are flat size #0, size #2, and size #4. The material (sable, hog hair, synthetic) varies on the texture I'm targeting. I usually use sable for the softest/smoothest response. (but they get beat-up pretty fast! )
  5. Since there's more than one way to do things, another solution would be to use a technical pen or a ultra fine point marker. On the tattoos: 3rd to the last step, more than likely drawn on with an ultra fine tip marker. The 2nd step would be a final wash of skintone to "age" the tattoo. The last step would probably have been the hair. With the hair: It looks to me that this was done with something similar to a Koh-I-Noor size #2x0 (.30 mm). Rather than ink, the medium would have been something similar to Golden Airbrush Color's Transparent Raw Umber Hue. The right profile's right arm, near the elbow, has either the hair "applied too thick", or shows slight signs of "troughing" where too much pressure could have been applied. If it were me, I would have applied it "last step" as the previous highlighting and shadows would provide continuity to the transparent "hair". Plus, if it went all wrong, at last step a quick touch of alcohol would remove the offense. This isn't to refute other's opinions, nor is it in fact "proof" of how it was done. This does however provide an alternative. The only way to know for sure, would be to ask the one who did it. Just my 2 cents worth.
  6. Are you wondering about the tattoos, the reddened area, the hair, or the conversion?
  7. Ah... Chaotic evil is never having to say you're sorry! That changs everything... I would go with the opposite side of the triad for the Historic Blues and use the 9701: Blood Triad. Although the 9745: Bloodthirsty Reds triad would work there too. This is all assuming MSP paints. Other brands will make a difference. Oh wait! My bad! I was thinking something else on the Dark Elf Skin. The Khaki browns are more of a yellow brown... combined with the armor selection it might just be a little "sick", which might work. I think the target would be yellow orange or maybe even the yellow greens of the first recommendation would work.
  8. Good Lord... er... Lord. I love the mini itself since I like the subtle fleur-de-lis on the handle, but you did a very splendid job and gave it depth. The colors and balance flow nicely. The blues are well done, and the browns are top knotch. The contrasting armor was a stretch, but you pulled it off and made it work! That alone was worth the price of admission. The hair is great, and although I think the face of the sculpt suffers from a "Resusci Annie" quality, you did a good job with it!
  9. Although dark elf skin as armor makes me curious, I personally would go for complimentary colors. 9712: Olive Greens Triad might be too "meh" 9762: Reptilian Greens Triad -or- 9704: Warm Green Triads might work for split-ish-complimentaries. My personal taste would probably use 9751: Historic Blues Triad since they are awesome.
  10. I believe it's banded mail. Here is a link to a Flash Eating Toad of Madagascar - that is very creepy. (Not for the faint of heart) - Located at Syracuse University, a picture of a 5 foot / 160 pound Man Eating Chicken can be found here
  11. Then too, it seems apparent that most MSP colors are premixed, and balanced by hue with individual tints and shades. To focus that intently on color specifics would naturally come with a price of sacrificing some flexibility toward mixing, as the premixing may dilute the purity of the of the saturation when mixed further. Or am I wrong?
  12. In a real world example, try using photoshop (from an earlier post I assume you're proficient). Make a 20% opacity fill in yellow. On top of it, make a 20% opacity fill in blue. This will achieve around a 40% opaque green. That is the "concept" of what the wash can achieve. It is a method of subtleties, and overdoing the style will leave the work garish. The only part left is knowing how far to thin, or not thin, your paints. I'm not sure if this will help you, but I've seen many fight with this. This is a more "base" explanation without too much technical "who-ha". For those that might not know, drybrushing does not mean "dry brushing", but its more of a "partial coverage" brushing, but it is limited to the ability of the paint dispersement from a semi-wet brush. This is probably why they call it "drybrushing" rather than "partial coverage paint dispersement from a semi-wet brush. " Too much of incorrect drybrushing, using a mostly dry brush, applied to dried paint, creates a "sponge" effect. This effect will sap even more juice from the new paint being applied. It will be chalky since (for all practical purposes) dry paint is being applied. It becomes a vicious cycle of adding paint, that becomes chaulky, to add paint, that becomes chalky, and so on. What might help would be to use a brush with around half of the load intact (dip it in paint, wipe it lightly once). Lightly go over the area to be drybrushed once. Just once, then put down the brush and walk away. Return in a few seconds and look at the effect. If the effect is unnoticeable, use a tad more paint. If the paint is too much on the miniature, use less paint. Recognize what drybrushing is intended to achieve, and target that effect. Most problems with drybrushing are from the concept of drybrushing. Having a half dry brush, with the paint drying on the brush, wiping dried or drying paint over the same area, is not the intention of "drybrushing". Hope this helps someone, as I've seen the question raised before.
  13. Hi Sam, Side stepping the obvious "schemes don't translate" or "same but different" arguments, I think that a color schemer "idea" might be fun. On the upside, I think it would definitely help some mix and match. I think it would be relatively simple to construct and maintain since there are finite colors in any line. On the downside, I think there are a plethora of color wheels already on the web, and it might be redundant. I think also that anyone would use it would all have miniatures that looked identical. Expanding on that idea, in my opinion what would really be effective would be to incorporate a color schemer with a little common sense and allow people to: 1. Pick the colors. 2. Pick the miniature. 3. Print out a "paint by numbers" outline, that also lists what paints would be needed. This would take the guessing out of the mechanics, and it would remove the intimidation or questions for the beginners. ------ Idea © 2007 slop_artist
  14. What is it for? Modern Military Tank Track? Fantasy Undead Weapon? A Very Shiny Pickle? The green can be green, yellow-green, or even blue green, depending on the subject.
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