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Posts posted by tbrehaut

  1. Thanks for all the kind words! Once I get my new house set up I hope to get back into a painting groove again.


    The reds looks pretty good, did you shade with green there? Maybe they need a bit more brightness, but then again for a shabby druid they're good. And I really love the chicken on the belt, bravo!


    I painted this over a fairly long span of time so I can't remember if I shaded with green or not. It's possible. I do know that I used the GW washes frequently -- that's one of the ways I tried to tie all the colours together with that dirty colour. I really tried to avoid any bright colours on this piece -- but I found it pretty hard to get enough contrast without getting too bright.


    Believe it or not, the chicken was actually petty easy -- white primer with a couple of washes and it kind of came together all on its own.


    I love seeing how others paint up this li'l guy. He's awesome..and so full of details.


    The number of details is ridiculous -- I kept thinking I was almost done and then there's another piece that needs to be done! In addition to the chicken, I was pretty pleased with the dead-face hand bag, and the free hand on the potion bottle (my first attempt I think). And then there were a few parts where I had no idea what I was even painting. ;)

  2. In June my wife decided that we need to move, so all that painting time I was looking forward to this summer has been taken up with buying, selling, and packing for my new house. I've contacted my recipient and let him know that I am still working on it, and will get it out but it's just going to be a little late.

  3. After having looked at just about every picture of geishas on CMON and a bunch of other sites, I sculpted the kimonos onto the witch elves in about 3 sittings. Not so much to let the greenstuff dry as that's the amount of time I had. Unfortunately, as I was sculpting in different places, I had to pack the minis up before the GS was completely dry and so there's a few extra wrinkles, divots, etc. in much of the material.


    As this is my first major sculpting effort (gap-filling doesn't really count) I was reasonably pleased with how they turned out and hope that I can hide most of the inconsistencies with a decent paint job...


    The first picture shows the bare metal Witch Elf figures with their weapons clipped and much of the armour filed down. The second picture shows them post sculpt (or in their house coats as my wife commented). I didn't give them full length kimono/dresses because I incorporated the tunic/cloths they already had.



  4. A quick fix to change the hue (if it's too orange/brown) would be to wash over most of it with Clear Red (RMS; or Vallejo's Transparent Red). It should preserve much of your highlighting while bringing your colours closer to a true red. For bright reds, I usually work with the Blood Reds triad (Bloodstain, Clotted, Carnage) and then highlight up to orange. Shading with a violet or bluish tone will also help with shadow definition without becoming too brown.


    Example below:


  5. A simple place to start before you try a full figure is to modify pre-existing figures. You should be using putty already to fill in gaps in larger figures -- some experience here will help you gain familiarity with how the putty works.


    Your first "sculpting" steps should probably be conversions. Sculpt a new hand for when you've removed a weapon. Add different types of shoulder pads to a figure. Change the clothes a figure is wearing. Resculpt an arm or a head when you aren't happy with the one the figure came with. Some more experience here increases confidence when trying to create an entire figure from scratch.

  6. Not sure about the trees, rocks, etc., but I used the water effects for my latest display base. I picked the Scene-a-rama stuff instead of woodland scenics simply because of cost. Not only was it cheaper, but the scene-a-rama kit had more materials and, most importantly, instructions! Having never used any water effects before, I couldn't tell you how it compares to the regular woodland scenics or other products, but I got it to work just fine for my needs. (I used it for a small stream running by a unit of elven wardancers.)

  7. If the paint's too thick or grainy, you'll have to strip them and start over. I've never stripped prepaints, but I imagine Simple Green would strip them without harming the plastic, since it's normally safe on styrene, etc.

    While Simple Green won't hurt the plastic, it also won't touch a lot of the commercial paints. I'm not confident about the Clix or Rackham miniatures, but I know that the ones from Wizards of the Coast (Dreamblade, D&D, Star Wars) are virtually unstrippable. Anything strong enough to take off the paint destroys the plastic first! On the bright side, I've had lots of success painting right onto a clean mini -- primed if I'm doing a complete repaint, unprimed if it's only minor modifications. I haven't had any problems with paint coming off.

  8. Some very nice painting! Your blends came out really nice. To maybe help with your finishing question -- use a coat or two of GW's varnish, a coat of Dullcote, and then finally get some brush on varnish to bring out the metal again. GW sells both its 'Ard Coat and Purity Seal in brushable form (although I think they give them different names) as does Vallejo and Reaper. Given that Blacksilk's armour isn't too shiny (showing some wear), the effect should work out pretty good. I did something similar with a bunch of ogres I painted last year. Good luck with it!

  9. I also really like the cloak. One thing I noticed with the green shirt is that your highlights are even all around the arm. They should be concentrated on the top of the arm, where light is most likely to hit it, and there should be very few on the bottom of the arm or deep inside the cloak. I'd probalby also add a tiny bit of the cloak blue to the top and edge of the hood to help focus the eye on the head (which is the natural focus).

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