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celestialkin

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Everything posted by celestialkin

  1. Hi. Can you guys please tell me if you know of any guides or tutorials for making molds of miniatures? I am currently close to finishing three models (two from total scratch), and I really do not feel like (or have the time) to try (I barely did well on these) to make them again, especially since I need quite a bit of all of them. I am a visual learner, so having pictures would be great to learn this difficult process. Also, can you please tell me where I can get the necessary materials for all this? Preferably the best priced places? Thanks in advance for any help!
  2. If you look a few threads down you will see that I have just had a bad experience trying to "protect" some models I coverted and tried to paint. Now I am halfway done with a model of one of my current characters (a Rosswell-like alien in a BESM adventure), and I am wondering if it's worth risking ruining it. I plan on using it a lot, so odds are the paintjob will be ruined, but couldn't I just slap a bit of grey paint to batch up the holes later on before I put it in my display case (I keep and protect all my old characters)? It is not like my painting skills are good at all. What about you guys? What do you do? How do you prefer?
  3. They are called triads. Ok the famous answer around here applies: depends. I use it darkest to lightest building my highlights as I go along. I have also applied the mid tone first and then used the dark tone as a wash and then reapplied the midtone as highlight and then topped it off with the lightest color. Really it depends on what you like and what you are trying to achieve. Forgive my newbness, but after about 3-4 years of trying to learn to paint miniatures, I still do not have a clue how to do highlights. I get the principle (at least I think that I do) that washes are supposed to be like water which gets into the cracks of miniatures to darken them, but I have no clue how to use them, even less how to make them. Also, I believe the sales guy said something about dry brushing (I have some experience with this technique, since it is simple). Is this true? And thanks for correcting me about the triads.
  4. Hi, A few months back I got a set of Reaper paints. I believe they are called trilogy set. It is the one for bone. How do I apply this?
  5. Dammit. I freaking ruined them. I tested it on the one which I felt I painted the worse (though I feel none really were painted well at all), and I tried to do everything mentioned in this thread, the humidity here was even at 55%! I waited an hour to let it dry and see how it turned out. I thought it was OK, so I did the batch, but now after about 9 hours they feel gritty like sandpaper, and in the light (even in dim light) they look like they are covered in tiny craters or bumps. So much time and effort thrown down the toilet. Hence why I did not want to risk painting them to begin with. Oh well, thank you all for trying to help me. Much appreciated! I'll see if I can find some Zelda merchandise on ebay which have small pots.
  6. I am kinda stuck with some planning for my campaign at the moment. I just got two of the following miniatures in the mail for test runs for some demon poultry I made up. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=140151442192 Concept image I drew: The problem is, I have no idea how to make/convert these little pitchforks, or how to attach them to these tiny metal miniatures. Are there any modelers here who might have some ideas?
  7. I see. Thanks for the detailed information. But how many coats of each do I use? Also, since they are meant to be ceramic pots, wouldn't a shiny coat be a good thing? Oh, and I finished painting them on Wednesday. Would that be enough time? And around what humidity would it be OK to spray these two products? I would prefer some actual numbers, if they are out there. edit: Oh, and how do I know the difference between what is considered a thick layer, and what makes a thin layer? I am completely new to this, so sorry.
  8. Hi, It's been a while since I posted here, but I gave in recently and decide to paint some minis which I had been converting (I had given up after not being able to get anywhere with primers or paints). I have a can of Krylon Clear Glaze, and a can of Krylon Matte Finish. I am not sure how to use them. I am not even sure what order to use them in, or if it even matters. Here are the pots I finished a few days ago, but have not been able to use since I am not sure how to protect them (I plan to use them very often in my game's dungeons and taverns). Can those experienced with these products, or any Matte/Glaze products please help me? I was suggested to buy these on this forum, but no one really explained how or why to use them. I am not even sure what the difference is between the two, or if there even is one. I REALLY do not want to damage these things. they cost me some cash, and a lot of time converting them, and even more time painting them. Thank you in advance for any help!
  9. Oh! I guess that I really underestimated the importance of washing the miniatures. I'll go to Walmart in the morning and get a cheap brush. Thank you for correcting me.
  10. Jeez. I just tried to touch the mini up, but now it seems like there are even more bare spots all over the miniature. It seems like I actually made it worse. I even glued the mini to a large milk gallon cap before I started all of this to make sure I never touch the mini with my hands.
  11. Thank you for the advice guys (and gals). I was surprised to get help from the woman who made this very paint. I have tried to follow your advice, and so far I have done two coats with a five-hour wait between them. I tried to keep them thin and I thinned them with a 4:1 ratio. I did not have an old toothbrush, so I could not wash it. I am currently having two problems, though. a) It is difficult to get all the recess. After spending quite a bit of time on this figure I believed that I primed it all, but checking it over I obviously didn't. b) I can't seem to properly primer it. There are little spots all over the miniature that show the metal underneath. In reality a and b are no big issues, since obviously the only solution is to just paint it again. What I am worried about is obscuring the details by adding even more layers/paint. The spots are so scattered and small that I will be going over many parts of the figure a forth time. If I need to do it again it will be a fourth time. I don't think the recess will cause a problem, though. This takes a while to do, though. I am glad I do not need to do a whole army like this. If it is this hard to thin simple primer I don't know what I am going to do now that I need to learn to paint thinned paint. Should I use the same 4:1 ratio for reaper master paints? Oh, and I meant a layer which was too thick in my last post. Sorry for the confusion.
  12. Thank you all for the help. I was about to let this go, but a few days ago I was at a gaming store so I just grabbed a bottle of Reaper brush on primer (black) out of impulse, since I really needed/wanted a figure done for a campaign which was about to start. So, can you guys please explain to me how to properly use this type of primer? I tried thinning it, but I failed miserably and ended up just slapping a very think layer on to get the job done. Thanks in advance!
  13. After over three months of tinkering with this off and on, and spending at least $50+ on it so far (I have made many mistakes. ) I decided to post this here to see if it is turning out the way I intended. I still need to slap another layer of plaster on it before sanding it again, though. Then comes the dreaded painting... All opinions, thoughts, ideas, suggestion, etc either good or bad are welcome guys. Thanks in advance for your replies!
  14. Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it. I tried to do what Doug Sundseth suggested, but I am still not getting it. If I ever get some primer I will try it again on something else I guess. Thankfully these pipes are only a buck each.
  15. Thank you for the advice! I really appreciate it. I will stop at my local Michaels tomorrow and ask for those items. I'll make sure to take a printout, since nobody at a Michaels knowns a thing about what they sell. >_> I just have a few questions about what you suggested. a) By "clear" do you mean the soap stays pink/unchanged after swirling/mixing the brush in it in your palm? b) Do I need to clean my hands and pour a new/different drop of soap for each time I swirl the brush in it? c) The link you provided for me (Thanks for taking the time for that) says "After cleaning brushes in solvent, work a little Pink Soap into the bristles". What is this solvent I need to use? I know those questions might seem simple or obvious, but again I know very little about this so I just want to make sure. Thanks again.
  16. Hi again, I am sorry for making so many threads at the same time, but I have quite a few questions and no where else to turn. This will be my last one for a while. You see I just ordered two new reaper brand brushes, since I needed some detail brushes, and because I was tired of looking around and asking people which to buy. I figured if I am going to use Repear brand paint their own brand brushes should hopefully work with them. However, these brushes were pretty expensive, and they are pretty small and thin (a detail brush and fine-detail brush), so I do not want them turning rock hard and discolored with old hardened paint like all my previous brushes have. Can you please explain to me how I should go about properly using, cleaning, washing, preserving, etc, etc, etc these pretty little things? I know it is a lot to ask, but going into as much detail as you can would really help me. I know next-to-nothing about these items, these paints, or this hobby yet, so please talk to me as the newbie I am. Thank you all in advance for your help!
  17. I just received some Lasting Flow from MiniatureGiant.com (because I was not able to find any Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder or Winsor & Newton Acrylic Flow Improver anywhere). <a href="http://www.miniature-giant.com/lasting-flo...-1-pr-4471.html" target="_blank">http://www.miniature-giant.com/lasting-flo...-1-pr-4471.html</a> I am trying to follow the instruction on: <a href="http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/15" target="_blank">http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/15</a> But sadly I do not understand a lot of it, and this is what has happened: This was my first attempt with one of my two pipes. This is basically the color/paint I wanted it to look like, with maybe a bit of highlighting of lighter colors (If I can manage to learn how to do highlighting), and maybe a bit of a wash for shading (got some advice from a guy at Reaper's number). I used the 1:1 ratio presented above, but I have no idea what went wrong or why. I am just confused. I never had such a problem before I believe. Believe it was just too dark of a color on white primer I decided to do my other pipe with my lightest GW green paint, then paint over it with the same paint as above. Again I used the 1:1 ratio and this is how it turned out: Again I have no idea what happened, or what I am doing wrong. The parts that look sort of smooth and even I got by wiping it with a sheet of tissue paper right after applying the paint. I can not even strip these to redo them, since I no longer have any primer (these were actually primed about three months ago). Can the pros on here please help me? Do you know what I am doing wrong, and maybe how I can fix it? Thanks in advance for your help!
  18. Hello, For the last two months I have been looking everywhere in my city and even neighboring cities for some black primer and white primer. I have checked everywhere from my local Michaels, to hobby shops, to car part stores (as suggested from both IRL people and a thread suggested here), to Walmart, to Home Depot, to Lowers, etc. I am about ready to throw away the paints and miniatures I recently bought because I just can't use the damn things. I have read some threads on here about which is best, and I have even called Reaper twice for help and advice. From what I understood I have been looking everywhere for either Krylon Ultra Flet (the employee at Walmart insisted and convinced me that there was no such thing, and sold me the normal plain Primer, now my minis look like they freaking glow. I was told "Ultra Flat" was a must by the woman at Reapers which mixes your paints), Testors Flat primer (I found two stores which sell Testors, but neither had any that said primer), or two other brands of primer which I can not recall their names anymore (I believe one started with a V). I considered just using Reaper's brush on paint, which I figured would also be convenient due to the humidity here in Florida, but the guy I talked to at Repears told me himself that it would be too fragile for playing use, that is unless I sealed it with some Krylon product, but I am not going through this headache twice to look for this stuff. The only thing I have found near me is some Games Workshop primer sold at a gaming store near me, but I flat out refuse to buy any more GW products, since I bought about $100 worth of paints from them in the course of two years and almost all of it is already unusable (I thought that was the norm until I visited your forum. Thanks for that guys!). Also, the stuff is super expensive in comparison, and I have to agree with some of the comments I have heard/read about its quality. Plus I dislike the store it is sold at immensely. I frequent both MiniatureGiant.com and MiniatureMarket.com, but sadly neither sells primer. I really have no idea what to do anymore. I just came across this set at Paizo.com (during the course of making this post): http://paizo.com/store/gameAids/paintingSu...paint/theArmory However I do not know a thing about this brand, and I recognize those characters as being from a D&D parody something, so I am not even sure if this is a joke product. Plus Paizo's shipping is extremely expensive, and I have had bad experiences with their lack of padding/protection on their shipments. Any help at all would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
  19. Hey guys, My title pretty much says it all. Sadly I do not have any local groups or clubs who paint minis anywhere near me, and I am the only person I know who enjoys making his own models for role-playing. Everyone else in all my local stores only buy the premade D&D minis, so I am a bit of an oddity. The owner of the biggest gaming store chain here is even having a hard time "getting rid" of his Reaper minis at his main store, since "nobody wants them". The only painters near here are strictly GW 40K players, and I have some bad history with said group. Basically, whenever I pull out one of my converted and self-painted minis/characters it always gets some attention, even though my painting skills are VERY basic (the only technique I really know is how to drybrush, and even then I don't know how to correctly do it). Anyways, I have just spent most of the day and all of tonight (it's 2:11am) trying to learn how to do the very common painting techniques in your Painting Glossary, but I've gotten nowhere. Even surfing through old threads on here, searching the net, and constantly trying to reference back to your stickies I just don't understand anything. At most I think I am begging to understand how to make a wash, but I have no idea how to use one. I just spent over an hour trying to discover the difference between a wash and an ink (no luck yet >_>). I am also a very big visual learner, and bit of a kinesthetic learner (learning by having something to do physically), so I am confident this is one of my current problems. For example in college I learn very little, if anything, from my textbooks, so I have pretty much stopped reading them. I really enjoy converting all kinds of figures, but converted figures look even worse than normal figures without paint. tl;dr: I have no one to learn from anywhere near me, so I was wondering if it is possible to learn this hobby completely by yourself. I figured the pros here would be the best people to answer this question. Thanks in advance for any advice and opinions!
  20. Hi. I am not sure if this is the right place or thread to ask this, but can anyone define/explain how to "thin" a paint, or wash, or whatever? Thanks in advance!
  21. Hello everyone, I enjoy working with reaper's beautiful figures, but right now I have a few incomplete projects and no white or black paint and no inks or washes. I would buy some Reaper paint, but there is only one store anywhere near my area who carries it, That store is doing a lot of illegal things, and because of this they really don't have to be nice or welcoming to their costumers, since they will still make a profit. Basically, it's a very uncomfortable and unwelcoming place and I hate setting foot in there. I just got off the phone with Reaper, and it turns out their minimum shipping cost is $8.00. Considering my order would only be about $9 it's not a very good deal for me. So, do any of you know of a good line of paints that works well on Reaper's minis? I know nothing about paints or brushes, so I am completely lost. I also need some good brushes. So far I have stopped by my two local Michaels about a dozen times asking for brushes that work well with "water based acrylic paint" (I had to call up Reaper for that knowledge), but like Walmart the people who work there don't know jack [email protected]#$ about anything they sell. I have used citadel paints in the past, but I am confident they use their bottle design on purpose to make sure your paints dry up before you can use it all. I have rarely used more than 1/3 (if I am lucky) of a paint bottle before it turns into a gooey rock. That is one of the main reasons I enjoy Reaper paints so much. This is why I am here begging for any help you guys could give me. The only art supply chain near me is Michaels, so if any of you know off a paint line and/or a matching brush set please let me know. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. After a few moths of this I just want to dump all my minis in a cardboard box and put it on my sidewalk, and it doesn't help that I have no painting skills. Thanks in advance for any help!
  22. If it primes up fine, and can be painted over fine... Why not just do That? Why ask for them to create a seperate/duplicate line of the prepainted in an unpainted form when you can just paint over it? I Loath painting, but i'll repaint parts of a miniature to get variety and differnces into a group of otherwise identical models. And it is far easier to paint over a section of a prepaint that has been customized than paint a whole mini. I was actually asking to see some of their unpainted metal lines done in plastic. Plus unpainted ones would still be cheaper than the painted ones, due to them not needing painting and people to paint them.
  23. I completely agree with most of what you've said. I quit GW stuff about a year ago for some of those reasons, and a few others. This was one of the reasons I was so thrilled to play around with my plastic Minotaur. I pulled out all my old 40K/Fantasy bits and tools, and went all out on this thing. As for why converters never paint their minis, I believe it's because most people are either good at the painting side of the hobby, or are good at the conversion side of the hobby. In my case I was starting to get pretty good at converting and I really enjoyed, but I hated ruining a model I spent days or weeks on with a terrible paint job, so I usually left them unpainted after they were done. I met a few other gamers like this. I also met quite a few gamers who could paint breathtaking miniatures, yet they barely did anything with their models besides slapping them together. I don't see this happening unless there is a HUGE demand for it, and so far there isn't. Sorry. I can only hope that demand happens.
  24. Hello, I am new to these forums, but I have been a fan of reaper miniatures for a while now. I have not done as much with them as I would have liked, which is why I am starting this thread. You see I recently bought one of your new Minotaur prepainted plastic figures at my local gaming store, but at the time I purchased it I did not know it was made out of plastic. When I got the blister home and opened it I was thrilled to see it was plastic, since this opened a whole new world of possibilities. I used to build a lot of Game Workshop miniatures, and like most players I did a lot of conversions on my models. Besides GW miniatures I have always made things like scenery, vehicles, buildings, and characters for my D&D games. However, as much as I love your beautiful (and I do mean beautiful) models, I have not used them very often. This was mostly due to how hard it is to work with and convert metal models, and how much more expensive metal models usually are. Same goes with other metal models (ex. metal GW models are worth about twice as much as their plastics). Plus needing to use a jeweler's saw for converting is a bit of a pain. I have occasionally used your metal models for characters, usually when I was not able to convert what I wanted from extra 40K/Fantasy parts, but not very often. This is why I was so happy when I realized you had made a 100% plastic model. I have spent the whole day today toying with this model, and customizing it to my personal tastes. I was able to easily remove it's weapons without the need for a saw (My xacto knife cut it like butter), and replace them with leftover Warhammer Fantasy weapons. I was also able to quickly remove it's base (again without a saw, and without mutilating it's feet) to replace it with a more appropriate D&D scaled base. I then crafted it a whole knew tail, and inserted an earth magnet in it's head so I can place a cowboy hat on it (when I find one). And even though this model was prepainted it still primered just fine. Anyways, the point of this rant is I did all of this in a fraction of the time it would have taken me to do it with a metal figure, and the results will probably be better with much less work. I am hoping you will make more of these prepaited figures, but I want to let you guys know that I would love to see some unpainted bare models made out of plastic. I know you guys have been making exclusively metal models for a very long time now, and before D&D Minis came out you guys were the best/only resource for gaming figs, but due to the difficulty of working with your figures and their very high prices they are now usually a very poor and unpopular choice, except for the most hardcore of hobbyists. For example I recently had a conversation with the owner of my city's biggest chain of comic/gaming stores and one of his employees about this, and after I mentioned I was worried about seeing Reaper Miniatures disappear due to D&D Minis they started laughing and joking about how I should not worry because "Those will be here forever", and they were probably right. The same employee (my DM) just told me today that his first task at that store was to organize and sort the Reaper figures, and that at least 95% of those models are still there. He then went on to tell me semijokingly "If you want them buy them, please. Buy them all...". Yet I see the store's D&D Minis chase being emptied and restocked weekly, and all the gamers at the store always use them in their games. It has reached the point where everyone at a game will be surprised when I pull out one of my painted Reaper characters for the first time, and they often spend a few minutes talking about it. Some younger players have even said things like "Cool. You made this yourself? I didn't know you could do that.". Because of all this I believe that making more plastic models and less metal ones might be a good idea, and if you were to make an unpainted plastic collection of figures it would be even better due to the lower price (no need to pay for paint and/or painters, and plastic is cheaper than metal), plus it would appeal to modelers like myself who would enjoying converting them. One of the things which got me thinking about this was I wanted to make an Avariel model to represent my recent D&D character, since Wizards has not yet made an Avariel D&D figure. I was thinking of buying an Elf Reaper figure and one of your Wings Accessory Set, but I gave up on that idea because I would have to pin voice the wings, it would have been difficult to remove the figure from it's base to later mount it on a transparent flying base, and altering the wings would have been too much work. Then I decided to buy the Minotaur instead, and now I keep on thinking about how it would be if the wings set and the elf figures were all in plastic. Since my regular gaming store received your new prepainted plastic figures I had noticed that they have been selling pretty well ( I did not know they were plastic, though.). The store even has these Reaper Minis at the front of the store on display. Two of my friends have even bought a model or two, and earlier today when I took a break and went over there to buy the other Minotaur figure they had it was already gone. This made me glad, since it shows your company might still be here for a while. Hope business stays good for you guys.
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