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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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  1. Calligraphy inks aren't designed to be water-safe, which makes it easier to clean your nibs and brushes and things after a calligraphy session. I've generally found acrylic inks to be safe from reactivation. Maybe try adding a few drops of a liquid acrylic medium to your inks before applying them? Golden do some decent liquid mediums. Gel mediums will also work of course, but they will tend to thicken the ink (which can be a good thing in certain circumstances).
  2. You should be able to get a good quality scraper like that wooden-handled one from a printmakers' supplies vendor. Dick Blick carries a lot of that sort of stock. Search for engraving or mezzotint tools. Note that although it will probably come reasonably sharp, you'll probably want to hone it some more. The little Eze-Lap diamond paddles will do the job well, and they're pretty cheap.
  3. These are bits from a very old 1/24 scale SPAD XIII that I started detailing, and never got around to finishing. The plywood shelf below the cockpit coaming is the focus here: it's just a flat piece of plastic card with wood grain painted on. I base coated it in a sandy tan to begin with, and then laid on some oil paint, thinned with linseed oil. I think, from memory, it was burnt umber, or maybe VanDyck brown. When I had a reasonably complete, but thin, layer of oil paint, I created the grain by dragging across it with an old ragged stiff brush. You want to do this in one pass if you can; if you go back over an area that has already been done, it will probably just mess it up and you'll have to start again. You can achieve a similar effect with acrylics, mixed with enough medium to make it translucent, but I found that it tends to dry too fast. It might be more successful if used with a retarder, but I haven't tried.
  4. Depending on how pernickety you want to be, a properly sized flat-ended piece of wire (like a paper clip) will be better for your nozzles than a pointed one (like a pin) as it pushes the obstruction back out of the shaft, while a point can pass through the obstruction and push it outwards, expanding the plastic of the nozzle. An obstruction that is pierced, but not displaced, by a pin can also just close up again as the deformed plastic regains its shape.
  5. Selleys put out a 2-stage glue called "All Plastics" which includes a kind of felt pen to prepare the surfaces, and the glue itself to stick them together. I've even used it to glue together that horrible soft polyethylene stuff they make Airfix figures out of, notoriously immune to gluing, and the bond is immovable. It does have a limited shelf-life though.
  6. I just bought some cheap high-strength reading glasses from China (+5 and +6 diopter). I think, from memory, they cost me about five or six bucks each, and I find them more comfortable to wear for long periods than my optivisor. The only down-side to them is that they have no directional lights mounted on them. I guess I could jury-rig something, but I haven't found the need yet.
  7. The helmets, belts and pouches were pipeclayed, which when new is very white, like plaster of paris. It's maybe fractionally warmer than a modern titanium white. The red dye used for the broadcloth coats was of much better quality and stability than that used in the Napoleonic or even Crimean era, and when it faded it tended to go to a russet tone rather than the pink or purple the older uniforms did. However, British troops in the Zulu wars didn't stay out in the field long enough for their uniforms to fade enormously, even in the African sun, and dust, dirt and sweat would have been the main moderators of colour. The blue trousers faded through grey-blue tones; again dust and dirt would have been a bigger issue. Troops out in the field started dying their helmets with strong tea to reduce their visibility; these would then have gone a soft pale brown instead of the bright white desired on parade.
  8. Not Flames, no, because I hate FoW, but for WWII wargaming. I use Battlegroup and Chain of Command. Though they were quite simplified, the Zvezda models were pretty good for the price at one time, but they've gone up a bit lately and for things you'd want multiples of, the PSC 5-model box sets are probably better value for money now.
  9. Mine came with a medium needle (I'd ordered a fine, but that particular vendor had multiple issues) and I found that I could achieve pretty fine results with that. I've since ordered and installed a fine needle and head, and there's definitely a difference, but it's not huge. This was the first thing I painted with the medium needle when the Sotar first arrived; it's a Zvezda 1:100 scale Jagdtiger. The camo is all freehanded with the airbrush, including the spotting.
  10. I had a bit of a hiccup with my computer recently, and since I had to get it fixed anyway, I thought I'd take the opportunity to upgrade its seven or eight year old graphics card. This thing is the result of the first bout of testing of the new card, which has certainly made a huge difference in sculpting performance in Blender — it started out as a cube subdivided and MultiResolutioned to about 6.5 million faces, and the card handled an object of that complexity without blinking. I had no plan or purpose for this when I started modeling it, and that does show a bit. However, it's now a Thing, and I've 3d printed one and painted it. The spearman is an old Essex figure; his spear is marked in 5mm increments.
  11. Yes, the washes all (or many of them, at least) come in matte and gloss versions, and there's not a significant difference in the packaging so it's easy to get caught with the wrong one. Tamiya sell a Matting Agent that can be added to gloss paints to dull them down, but whether it will work with Citadel washes or not I don't know.
  12. You could try some self-levelling sandable automotive primer. Just decant a bit from the spray can into a plastic cup or something, and flood it into the area that needs smoothing. You'll have to leave it to cure for at least 24 hours, I'd think, and depending on how bad the pitting is you might need a couple of applications, but with care and 2400 grit wet-&-dry paper it can give you a perfectly smooth surface. Then, to get it mirror-smooth, flood-fill with a self-levelling acrylic like Future (or whatever it's calling itself these days).
  13. It's a pity, but all I see of the images are blurry placeholders. Thanks, Photobucket.
  14. In my experience, those pens don't last long when used on acrylic paint. I don't know why it is, but there's clearly something about the surface that they hate. You could try soaking the nib for a short while in the appropriate thinner for the type of ink you're using — isopropyl would probably be a good starting point. That will probably leach any ink from the fibres of the nib, so you'll have to work it back out afterwards by scribbling on a piece of paper until the ink starts flowing again.
  15. This is a model by Schlossbauer on Thingiverse, printed by me on my Ender 3. It's the first fantasy figure I've painted in quite a while; I've been distracted by 15mm WWII stuff. It's a Hezrou, which used to be called a Type II Demon back in the ancient AD&D days. It stands about 45mm tall. I ended up having to slice its base off and print it lying at 45° on its back; I've been having issues with the nozzle knocking into tree supports recently, which is a bit of a pain. It's now based on a 33mm fender washer, which I prefer in any case, as it adds a bit of weight to the plastic model and lowers its centre of gravity.
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