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MojoBob

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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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  1. Quite some time ago, I designed a 1:100 scale model of the Soviet T27 tankette (based on the Carden-Loyd Mk.VI) and uploaded it to Shapeways. Unfortunately, Shapeways 3d printing is still pretty expensive, so though I did get a sample printed, I never went ahead with the numbers that would be required for these little cockroaches. Of course, now that I have a resin printer of my own, all that has changed. I've printed 21 of them so far, which is enough for between four and seven platoons, depending on how much I want to pay for them in Battlegroup: Barbarossa (it's 25 points for a
  2. I think it would depend on the resin. The eSun water-washable resin I've been using is much less volatile than the spirit-based stuff, and is unlikely to degrade the adhesive on a good quality clear tape, in the short term at least. Before I got any spare FEP I relied on a packing-tape patch for several weeks; when I swapped out the FEP at the end of that time the patch was as firmly in place as ever. I wouldn't want to rely on it except as an emergency measure, but for this resin at least it seems to work okay. Addendum: I should note that I only had a pin-prick hole t
  3. Compare with this one, in exactly the same resin, that I blow-dried with my airbrush before curing. You could use canned compressed air I guess, if you don't have access to an airbrush; I have no idea what those cost as I've never used it for anything.
  4. 1:100 (15mm) WWII Soviet BT-7 fast tank. This is printed in a Frankenstein mixture of resins: the very last drops of transparent red left in the vat, the last dregs of some opaque tan resin, and some transparent green to take the vat level up to a safe depth. They're all the same type of water-washable resin though, and all from eSun, so they're perfectly intermixable. The only issue is that the inert fillers in the opaque resin mean that you have to be very diligent about washing the print, and it's a good idea to blow off any water with compressed air before curing —
  5. Well, now I know what happens when resin in the vat gets too low. It could have been a lot worse; this time I just lost a bit of the front-right trackguard. I guess there was still enough of a puddle elsewhere on the FEP to complete the other side. The model is still usable as a wargaming piece. I'll just call it battle damage. :)
  6. I've finished painting the BT-42 in its 1943 three-colour scheme.
  7. If you want very clear, transparent results, then acrylic inks are good, and you need very little ink to tint quite a lot of epoxy. I've used both spirit-based inks and regular acrylic inks, and both seem to work equally well. If you want a murkier result, then the opaque earth pigments will do the trick; again, you need surprisingly little paint to colour a mass of epoxy. If you want very murky, then mixing a small amount of talc into the coloured epoxy does the job, but be warned that the tipping point between translucent-but-murky and a-solid-block-of-coloured-epoxy
  8. The good thing about 8k rez is that it would allow a much larger build area at the same rez as now. I'm really pretty happy with my humble Mars Pro 2k rez, but having four times the build area at that resolution would be pretty nice. Usalottaresin though. One good thing about being somewhat skint is that by the time I can afford to upgrade to new tech, the new tech will be much, much cheaper :)
  9. I've started getting some splitting and warping of parts post-curing. The last one was a turret-stub that partially separated; this time it split along the base of the gun mantlet and the gun and mantlet warped vertically, pulling it away from the body of the turret. On both pieces, I pulled the errant parts right off and glued them back in place. My working hypothesis at the moment is that it's due to imperfectly cured resin still inside the hollow component, which is now sealed because I glued a magnet over its drain hole. I thought I'd cured its innards with my littl
  10. I got the OT-130 painted. I was originally planning to do it in winter white, but apparently the Soviets didn't bother with camouflage when they steamrollered into Finland in 1939.
  11. 1) Some way of buying individual models that doesn't involve me signing up to a subscription service. I don't have the resources to be paying ten bucks a month to ten designers on the off-chance that I might want something they've sculpted in the last month. 2) the ability to actually see what you're offering without signing up to Patreon.
  12. On the suggestion of Richard Humble, over at the Facebook 3d Printing For Historical Wargames page, I modified my T-26 model to make this flamethrower variant, the OT-130 (or XT-130, or KhT-130, depending on who you read). It's a very straightforward conversion. There are a bunch of little details to be modified, but the only major structural change was moving the turret over from the port to the starboard side of the hull.
  13. An SSD isn't ideal for storing files that will be accessed only periodically, they're better for working drives, such as the system drive. Magnetic platters are still better for mass storage.
  14. And now those turrets are printed as well. The 15mm Soviet infantry is also 3d printed. Now I'm ready to print as many as I need for the illegal and bullying invasion of Finland. I'm sure there will be no problems at all driving them all the way across those completely flat, open frozen lakes with gloomy bunker-concealing forests on all sides.
  15. I've added a couple of versions of the later (much more common) drop-forged turret. In truth, this type of turret would be much more appropriate for my Winter War force. From memory, I think only about one in ten tanks carried a radio, and troop control was carried out via signal flags. That ratio improved markedly later in WWII, but to begin with the Soviets lagged far behind pretty much every other belligerent nation in that respect. As of writing, I haven't yet printed these turrets. I suspect that aerial will require quite a delicate touch with the suppo
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