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MojoBob

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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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  1. It means not having any internal faces (i.e. faces inside the geometry) or holes in the mesh, or duplicate geometry lying on top of each other, among other things.
  2. Yes, fairly easy. Blender's Booleans have improved enormously over the last couple of years. You do need to make sure that your base model is properly manifold though, or else all sorts of problems arise.
  3. That's a tricky question. I find it pretty easy to use now, but I'm very used to it, and I'm still finding things that can trip me up. I keep a notebook beside me in which I note down how to do things, so I don't have to keep it all in my leaky brains. The way I learned to use Blender was by building something I wanted to make, and spending a lot of time on Youtube and Blender forums and what-not to find out how to do the things I needed to do to make that thing. That was 2016, and I recorded my progress on my blog. If I re-did that model now, I'd do it much more quickly, efficiently, and generally better, but I plugged away at it and it taught me a great deal. Blender has improved its usability a great deal since then, too.
  4. Carl Gustav anti-tank teams, with integral printed bases. The figures were designed in Blender. A while ago, before PSC had got around to releasing its 10mm NORTHAG stuff, and because metal 10mm infantry was surprisingly expensive, I thought I'd design and 3d print some for myself. At that time I only had my Ender 3 printer, and though the resulting prints were okay for game pieces, they weren't fantastic. Now that I have my Mars Pro resin printer, I thought I'd print some more to see how they'd look. I'm pretty happy with they way they turned out, in the end. Riflemen in red, fresh off the printer. Carl Gustav teams primed and washed. I doubt that I'll proceed with this project though. Now that infantry are readily available from PSC and elsewhere, and the amount of infantry I'm liable to need for a game means that the cost isn't too exorbitant, there doesn't seem to be all that much point in DIY stuff. I'm pleased to know I could do it though, if I felt the urge. For comparison, here's a 4-man fire team that I printed on my Ender 3.
  5. The Bebilith is a gigantic spider-demon-thing that first appeared, I think, in AD&D2e Planescape. The Pathfinder SRD definition of the creature can be found at https://www.d20pfsrd.com/bestiary/monster-listings/outsiders/bebilith/ Schlossbauer, on Thingiverse, has his own version of a Bebilith, which I have downloaded and have attempted a couple of times to print, both in resin and in PLA, with very limited success with the limbs of the thing. It's not a model that is well adapted to FDM printing. However, now that I'm beginning to get to grips with resin printing, I've given it another go, more successfully this time. Schlossbauer's model, base removed, in 3d Builder Resin in red (no scythe-claws yet) and a PLA+ body in black. The model is too large for the build volume of my Mars Pro, and rather than scale it down, I decided to cut it up in Blender. I printed it in three batches: the body, the six legs, and the two scythe-claws. This had the advantage of making supporting the elements quite a bit easier. However, assembly was made slightly — though only slightly — tricky because I had to match the right leg to the right socket. Fortunately I'd had the foresight to make each plug and socket a slightly different shape, so it was only a question of matching the shapes. Just one leg left to place, and then the scythe-claws One interesting thing about resin printing is that it turns out to be a bit less dimensionally precise than the prints I get from my Ender 3. I had to file the plugs a bit to get them to seat properly in their sockets; fortunately the resin is very soft, so it was easy enough to do. I glued it together with ordinary superglue. The softness of the resin will make basing this model a necessity. The attachment points of the legs and claws will inevitably break if given even slightly rough handling. And here, a couple of hours later (after going out for some more superglue) it is. I've sprayed it with a coat of Vallejo IDF Grey surface primer so that I can see what's going on — the translucent resin is very tricky to the eye. The seams where the limbs have been joined are very apparent; they'll need to be filled.
  6. This is a miniature I've printed and painted before, Duncan Louca's Fleshwalker. Last time, I printed it at 50% of its designed size; this time I've done it full-size — it's very big — and I've gone for a blueish colour scheme rather than the browns I used last time. I've mounted it on three big 50mm steel washers, not because it needed to be based for stability, but rather to give it a bit of weight and to shift its centre of gravity right down. The blue skin is only modestly successful, and all the boils and sores have ended up looking more like internal molten magma or something rather than pus-filled lesions. Never mind. As always, Sergeant Measureby is present for scale, with his Spear of 5mm Increments.
  7. Here's an all-round view. I also printed out a bunch of 24mm versions (not including the bases) to use with my old 15mm FASA Traveller minis — an example of which is the chubby cop in the centre, on his radio. They're painted all rainbow colours simply to make them easily distinguishable on the tabletop.
  8. This is a Wayfarer Tactics mech (18mm scale, apparently) that I printed yesterday, painted up, and it's shown alongside a Reaper 32mm sci-fi mini for scale. I'm intending it as a powered suit of high-G/hostile-environment/battle-armour for use with 28-32mm figures. I've based it on a 32mm steel fender washer, to give it a bit of weight and shift its centre of gravity down. I've also printed out half a dozen or so at about 20-25mm tall, to go with my old RAFM 15mm Traveller figures; I might get around to painting them too, one of these days.
  9. My plan is to use it on a little first-aid post vignette base, with its nose parked inside a little shed or up against dense shrubbery or something with some stretcher cases lined up alongside. When that will happen, anyone can say, but it's a plan.
  10. Yet another print failure. Or at least, a partial failure, followed by a success. The skate of first print of this model (the painted one, on the left) came partially away from the build plate, and as a result the nose of the half-track printed quite distorted. The wheels looked like little rugby balls (and also they fell off when I took the supports off). It may have been the fault of the resin: I was using the very last dregs from a bottle, and it may not have been well mixed. More likely though, the build plate may have been pushed very slightly out of level. I re-levelled it and tried again with some fresh resin, and it (the base-coated one on the right) printed perfectly.
  11. I did my first FEP change today, and only screwed it up one and a half times. The first disaster was when the head of my 2mm hex-key broke off inside one of the FEP frame screw heads when I tightened it up — I wasn't even applying all that much torque, so it must have been an even crappier hex key than I'd thought. I couldn't get the bit out of the hex socket (though in trying I did manage to punch a hole right through the FEP, so scratch that piece) but fortunately I did manage to get the whole screw out by rotating the upper frame half, pulling up against the screw head to apply tension and rotation. Also, even more fortunately, Elegoo wisely provided a few spare screws, because otherwise I would have been, well, screwed. My second almost-disaster was when I was tightening the last couple of screws, and the hex-key slipped out of my klutzy fingers and dented the FEP down at one end. I'm almost sure that it didn't actually puncture it though.... fingers crossed. I'd better test that before I put any resin in the reservoir. Oof.
  12. The Whirlwind suffered multiple failures: both of the engine nacelles came away from their supports at the nose and pancaked, and the lowest point — the port wing tip — also pancaked out a bit, which surprised me a bit as I thought that if anything I had over-supported it at that point. So, that's five hours of printing wasted.
  13. This toothy grabby wormy thing is something I doodled up in Blender and printed on my Elegoo Mars Pro, one of the roughly 50% of prints that actually succeed. The human figure is a plastic Caesarian Roman Centurion; I forget from which manufacturer.
  14. I've been doodling again in Blender's sculpting mode, making this toothy grabby burrowing worm thing. I was originally going to also sculpt a scenic terrain base, showing it bursting up out of the earth, but then I realised that it would be a lot quicker and easier just to model one by traditional means. As usual, Sergeant Measureby is present to provide a sense of scale. His spear is marked in 5mm graduations. I'm slowly (so slowly) learning how best to orientate objects for efficient supporting. This guy is pretty obvious: all of his arms and fangs project more or less forward, so I just had to flip him up so that they were all pointing more or less straight up. It does mean that the main weight-bearing supports connect right in the middle of his smooth, pulpy back, but most of them were easily trimmed away with clippers before curing, and the ones that did break away left just a few easily fillable pinhole pock-marks. Pock-marks that, in light of the disgusting nature of this creature, might actually add to its repulsiveness, so I might just leave them be. I've also just learned the trick about tilting non-organic flat-plane objects in two axes instead of just one, so I'll be interested to see how that works out. I'm wondering, in the case of this Westland Whirlwind model (and similar models), if it might not be useful to print it completely vertically, perhaps cut into two pieces fore and aft. It would need a lot of supports along the bottom edges of the planes, but most of them could be very light, with just a few weight-bearing supports. Sme experimentation is clearly called for.
  15. I've been messing about in Blender, making a bunch of variants of 15mm (1:100 scale) WWII German Opel Maultier half-tracks. The two on the right are ambulances, one closed up and the other with the back doors open and the steps down. Third from the right is an office/radio body. The others are fairly self-explanatory I think. They're based on Bergman's Maultier model. I've just refined it a bit and added some stuff that I already had lying around in my design folders. And here's another one, reusing some seated German infantry I originally put together as passengers for a SdKfz 7. I had to put them through 3d Builder's Simplify operation to get the STL down to a reasonable size, but it imposed no real visible penalty, while dropping the file size from 95MB to about 11. I did a test print of the ambulance variant with the open back doors and steps down. Taking into account my inexperience with resin printing in general, it printed okay, so I don't foresee any issues with any of the others either.
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