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MojoBob

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by MojoBob

  1. This is the back half. It's a bit less architecturally interesting than the front, but it has its moments. And here they are, both together.
  2. That's certainly where I stole it from.
  3. This is the front half of a two-part ruin from Printable Scenery, printed on my Ender 3. It's scaled for use with 28mm figures. I had originally intended it as a vehicle for using my new static grass applicator, but that turned out to be such a useless piece of junk that I reverted to my old favourite, foam flock. There is a bit of static grass on there, but it was applied via the old sprinkle-and-blow method, rather than via this new-fangled static electrickery.
  4. I've made a beginning on applying some vegetation to the ruin. At the moment, the glue is still quite wet, and I'll let it dry out completely before I go any further as the colours will change a bit, and I want to be able to see just what is going on. I'll probably have to knock back some of the more lurid colours by spraying a filter over them, but we shall see. Most of the ground cover is foam flock. The mossy patches are static grass, and the bushes are lichen of some sort.
  5. From time to time I have an urge to photograph my models on a more naturalistic background than a plain white, grey or black background. So I threw this little photo stage together. It's on a 180mm circle of heavy card that I had lying around that I had cut for some other, now long forgotten, project. I painted it with blotchy mud-brown acrylics, and then went to town with various grades and colours of foam flock, and a few tufts and patches of static grass. There's some actual dead leaves on there too, fairly thoroughly pulverized in a small blender I keep in my workshop for that sort of t
  6. Well, my static applicator arrived today, and it is a piece of garbage. It barely works at all, and when I first unpacked it, it didn't work at all — the wire wasn't attached to the mesh. I might rip it apart and see if I can turn it into something useful, but right now it's just a waste of money. So anyway, I guess that means I'll be falling back on that old standby, foam flock.
  7. Printed on an old 1st gen. Ender 3 using Tom Tullis' (Fat Dragon Games) printer profiles, in eSun PLA+ (black).
  8. I've applied some limited colour to the ruins with various washes and glazes, and until the vegetation goes on, that's about all the colour there will be. As well as some grasses and bushes around the base, I want to add some mosses and things growing on the stones of the ruins themselves. I find this tends to seat the structure within the scene, rather than making it look like it's just been plonked down on to a scenic base.
  9. This ruin, another piece from Printable Scenery, was printed in two parts, and took about three days of printing all up. You can see a big gap between the front and back sections; I haven't yet decided whether or not I'll fill it or leave the model in two pieces. There are quite a few stringing boogers remaining, and normally I'd scrape them all off, but in this case I intend to use them as the basis for some creeping ivy on the walls and pillars. Unlike the mausoleum I completed recently, this model is going to have a whole heapin' helpin' of grass and moss added after the pa
  10. Now it's time for some vegetation to bring the scene to life. The grass is a mixture of several shades of sawdust and foam flock over brushed-on PVA, and the bushes are just bits of clump foam soaked in diluted PVA. You can add more interest to grass flocking by sprinkling darker tones where it should be shadowed, at the base of rocks for example, and lighter tones where it would be highlighted. I'd recommend looking at some photographs of the sort of terrain you're trying to replicate, to see where and how it grows, rather than just charging in and sprinkling it everywhere willy-n
  11. This is a small terrain project I completed quite a while ago, that I thought I'd show here through its construction process. Unfortunately I didn't start taking photos until after the basic groundwork was done, but I'll try to explain how I got to that point. The tile is sized to fit with some other river pieces I've made previously, but I'd like it to be an attractive little standalone model in its own right. We shall see. The bridge is one that I 3d-printed from a model I found on Thingiverse; I thought it was bigger when I started printing it, but it will do OK a
  12. Here's a terrain piece from Printable Scenery, this time a ruinous mausoleum. It's one of a pack of three (one of which is in two parts). I have not yet decided whether to leave the mound bare and stoney, or to put some grass flock on it. I'm leaning towards leaving it though; I think it adds to the Gothic atmosphere of the thing. I printed it on my Ender 3; it took about 28 hours I think. As usual, Sergeant Measureby is there with his Spear of 5mm Increments, for scale.
  13. I've been tinkering away at designing a 1:100 scale digital model of Britain's standard heavy gun of WWII, the 7.2" howitzer. It was derived from the WWI vintage 8" howitzer, with a new barrel to cater to heavier charges and new, better ammunition. It used huge chocks in an attempt to keep the gun roughly in place after firing; even so, it was not unknown for the most powerful charges to send the gun right up and over its chocks, presumably to the loud swearing (and peril) of the crew. This model shows it on its original carriage. It was later put on the four-wheel spli
  14. Quite some time ago, I designed a 1:100 scale model of the Soviet T27 tankette (based on the Carden-Loyd Mk.VI) and uploaded it to Shapeways. Unfortunately, Shapeways 3d printing is still pretty expensive, so though I did get a sample printed, I never went ahead with the numbers that would be required for these little cockroaches. Of course, now that I have a resin printer of my own, all that has changed. I've printed 21 of them so far, which is enough for between four and seven platoons, depending on how much I want to pay for them in Battlegroup: Barbarossa (it's 25 points for a
  15. I think it would depend on the resin. The eSun water-washable resin I've been using is much less volatile than the spirit-based stuff, and is unlikely to degrade the adhesive on a good quality clear tape, in the short term at least. Before I got any spare FEP I relied on a packing-tape patch for several weeks; when I swapped out the FEP at the end of that time the patch was as firmly in place as ever. I wouldn't want to rely on it except as an emergency measure, but for this resin at least it seems to work okay. Addendum: I should note that I only had a pin-prick hole t
  16. Compare with this one, in exactly the same resin, that I blow-dried with my airbrush before curing. You could use canned compressed air I guess, if you don't have access to an airbrush; I have no idea what those cost as I've never used it for anything.
  17. 1:100 (15mm) WWII Soviet BT-7 fast tank. This is printed in a Frankenstein mixture of resins: the very last drops of transparent red left in the vat, the last dregs of some opaque tan resin, and some transparent green to take the vat level up to a safe depth. They're all the same type of water-washable resin though, and all from eSun, so they're perfectly intermixable. The only issue is that the inert fillers in the opaque resin mean that you have to be very diligent about washing the print, and it's a good idea to blow off any water with compressed air before curing —
  18. Well, now I know what happens when resin in the vat gets too low. It could have been a lot worse; this time I just lost a bit of the front-right trackguard. I guess there was still enough of a puddle elsewhere on the FEP to complete the other side. The model is still usable as a wargaming piece. I'll just call it battle damage. :)
  19. I've finished painting the BT-42 in its 1943 three-colour scheme.
  20. If you want very clear, transparent results, then acrylic inks are good, and you need very little ink to tint quite a lot of epoxy. I've used both spirit-based inks and regular acrylic inks, and both seem to work equally well. If you want a murkier result, then the opaque earth pigments will do the trick; again, you need surprisingly little paint to colour a mass of epoxy. If you want very murky, then mixing a small amount of talc into the coloured epoxy does the job, but be warned that the tipping point between translucent-but-murky and a-solid-block-of-coloured-epoxy
  21. The good thing about 8k rez is that it would allow a much larger build area at the same rez as now. I'm really pretty happy with my humble Mars Pro 2k rez, but having four times the build area at that resolution would be pretty nice. Usalottaresin though. One good thing about being somewhat skint is that by the time I can afford to upgrade to new tech, the new tech will be much, much cheaper :)
  22. I've started getting some splitting and warping of parts post-curing. The last one was a turret-stub that partially separated; this time it split along the base of the gun mantlet and the gun and mantlet warped vertically, pulling it away from the body of the turret. On both pieces, I pulled the errant parts right off and glued them back in place. My working hypothesis at the moment is that it's due to imperfectly cured resin still inside the hollow component, which is now sealed because I glued a magnet over its drain hole. I thought I'd cured its innards with my littl
  23. I got the OT-130 painted. I was originally planning to do it in winter white, but apparently the Soviets didn't bother with camouflage when they steamrollered into Finland in 1939.
  24. 1) Some way of buying individual models that doesn't involve me signing up to a subscription service. I don't have the resources to be paying ten bucks a month to ten designers on the off-chance that I might want something they've sculpted in the last month. 2) the ability to actually see what you're offering without signing up to Patreon.
  25. On the suggestion of Richard Humble, over at the Facebook 3d Printing For Historical Wargames page, I modified my T-26 model to make this flamethrower variant, the OT-130 (or XT-130, or KhT-130, depending on who you read). It's a very straightforward conversion. There are a bunch of little details to be modified, but the only major structural change was moving the turret over from the port to the starboard side of the hull.
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