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Everything posted by MojoBob

  1. Not Flames, no, because I hate FoW, but for WWII wargaming. I use Battlegroup and Chain of Command. Though they were quite simplified, the Zvezda models were pretty good for the price at one time, but they've gone up a bit lately and for things you'd want multiples of, the PSC 5-model box sets are probably better value for money now.
  2. Mine came with a medium needle (I'd ordered a fine, but that particular vendor had multiple issues) and I found that I could achieve pretty fine results with that. I've since ordered and installed a fine needle and head, and there's definitely a difference, but it's not huge. This was the first thing I painted with the medium needle when the Sotar first arrived; it's a Zvezda 1:100 scale Jagdtiger. The camo is all freehanded with the airbrush, including the spotting.
  3. I had a bit of a hiccup with my computer recently, and since I had to get it fixed anyway, I thought I'd take the opportunity to upgrade its seven or eight year old graphics card. This thing is the result of the first bout of testing of the new card, which has certainly made a huge difference in sculpting performance in Blender — it started out as a cube subdivided and MultiResolutioned to about 6.5 million faces, and the card handled an object of that complexity without blinking. I had no plan or purpose for this when I started modeling it, and that does show a bit. However, it's now a Thing, and I've 3d printed one and painted it. The spearman is an old Essex figure; his spear is marked in 5mm increments.
  4. Yes, the washes all (or many of them, at least) come in matte and gloss versions, and there's not a significant difference in the packaging so it's easy to get caught with the wrong one. Tamiya sell a Matting Agent that can be added to gloss paints to dull them down, but whether it will work with Citadel washes or not I don't know.
  5. You could try some self-levelling sandable automotive primer. Just decant a bit from the spray can into a plastic cup or something, and flood it into the area that needs smoothing. You'll have to leave it to cure for at least 24 hours, I'd think, and depending on how bad the pitting is you might need a couple of applications, but with care and 2400 grit wet-&-dry paper it can give you a perfectly smooth surface. Then, to get it mirror-smooth, flood-fill with a self-levelling acrylic like Future (or whatever it's calling itself these days).
  6. It's a pity, but all I see of the images are blurry placeholders. Thanks, Photobucket.
  7. In my experience, those pens don't last long when used on acrylic paint. I don't know why it is, but there's clearly something about the surface that they hate. You could try soaking the nib for a short while in the appropriate thinner for the type of ink you're using — isopropyl would probably be a good starting point. That will probably leach any ink from the fibres of the nib, so you'll have to work it back out afterwards by scribbling on a piece of paper until the ink starts flowing again.
  8. MojoBob


    This is a model by Schlossbauer on Thingiverse, printed by me on my Ender 3. It's the first fantasy figure I've painted in quite a while; I've been distracted by 15mm WWII stuff. It's a Hezrou, which used to be called a Type II Demon back in the ancient AD&D days. It stands about 45mm tall. I ended up having to slice its base off and print it lying at 45° on its back; I've been having issues with the nozzle knocking into tree supports recently, which is a bit of a pain. It's now based on a 33mm fender washer, which I prefer in any case, as it adds a bit of weight to the plastic model and lowers its centre of gravity.
  9. You could use modelling wax. Polish the inside before you wrap it around, and crimp it underneath the base so the resin doesn't leak out. I think it likely that however you do it, you'll probably end up having to sand and polish the edges, so you'll have to repaint the base edge.
  10. I'm not talking about purging it of condensation (though that is important, from time to time) but releasing the pressure after each session.
  11. Have you been purging the tank after each session?
  12. I've created wood grain effects by dragging a darker translucent colour over a lighter base coat with a coarse bristle brush. It works well, but you have to be careful not to over-work it or else it ruins the whole grain effect.
  13. I've used polyclay (Super Sculpey) with a Bonesium figure and baked both together safely. http://mojobob.blogspot.com/2014/02/super-sculpey-and-bonesium.html Note that in this case the figure and the Sculpey base extension were superglued to a 22mm steel washer.
  14. The down-side to completely shrouding the needle tip, and (I suspect) the reason Badger has moved away from it in several of their more recent models, is that if you're doing very fine, close-up airbrushing, the tip-shroud can capture a sort of bubble of air pressure, and you get involuntary back-flushing and spidering.
  15. This is something I did for our AD&D campaign — one of the characters has an Ebony Fly, one of the Figurines of Wondrous Power. The fly is a model from Thingiverse, while the rider I built myself. I started with a mannequin from Poser, and imported that into Blender for sculpting, but I had to do so much work to make it 3d printable that I might as well have just started from scratch in Blender, it would have been less trouble. I plan to build a low-detail rigged humanoid mannequin in Blender that I can import and pose as needed, but somehow I never seem to remember about that project until I actually need one, and end up scrabbling around in a big rush. It's been designed so that the rider is compatible in scale with Reaper's 28-32mm stuff. Here's how it looks after printing on my Ender 3, and with a quick splash-&-wash paint job:
  16. If you keep the walls of the dam at an angle (i.e. not perpendicular to the base), then the meniscus is formed past the edge of the basing. When you trim it back clean, you can get rid of the meniscus entirely and get a level transition from tile to tile.
  17. I'm quite intrigued by the possibilities of digital sculpting. I'm a Blender user, and I've found Blender's sculpting tools to be very usable (and free, which is not to be sneezed at). I'm certainly not a great sculptor, but it is a lot of fun. This is a thing that started out as an experiment with the "Skin" modifier on a Bezier curve, and ended up as... this. Whatever this is. One thing I will say about digital sculpting is that a decent pressure-sensitive graphics tablet is really a vital piece of equipment. You can do a lot with just a mouse, but almost everything is just so much easier and more intuitive with a stylus on a tablet.
  18. Here's a blog post I wrote about some flocking experimentation: http://mojobob.blogspot.com/2015/09/terrain-flocking-test.html Compare that with these "toy soldier" bases, that have been flocked with a single grade of flock:
  19. Light layers of several different types and sizes of flocks and static grass give the best look. If it's all one variety, it tends to look more like a neatly-manicured lawn than a meadow.
  20. I end up using paints in triad-like groups in any case, so it might be useful to know you're getting a group that has been play-tested.
  21. If your drawing accuracy leaves a little bit to be desired, you can use your computer and just about any image editing program to create a "colouring-in" template for yourself, using the Edge Detect filter. I've detailed the whole process in a post on one of my blogs at http://fitz-publicdisplays.blogspot.com/2019/06/colouring-in-with-aid-of-computer.html I've used Krita for my examples, because It's free, and It's really good.
  22. This is a piece if 15mm WWII wargaming terrain I put together from 3d-printed parts and the usual run of terrain-making materials. The main ruins are re-scaled from Printable Scenery's "Modular Ruins" set and assembled into a house-shaped unit in Blender, while the little outhouse was designed by me from scratch in Blender. The whole lot is mounted on a 6mm MDF board that I've carved some surface contours into, and the rubble is crushed kitty-litter and broken matchsticks. The grass is two colours of foam "Fine Turf" flock from Woodland Scenics.
  23. Back in ancient times, in the '70s and '80s, some people used to use metallic printers' inks in preference to metallic enamels because they were more finely ground, went on smoother, and gave a superior metallic lustre than enamels, which tended to have quite coarsely-ground metallic particles suspended in a horrible oleo resin. These days, there are alternatives that are much better. Vallejo ModelAir acrylic metallics are very finely ground and apply very smoothly with brush or airbrush, and they cure to a good lustre. There are also ranges of spirit-based metallics designed specifically to be airbrushed and then polished which return very realistic metallic effects. Personally, I doubt that the extra fiddliness involved in painting with printers' inks would be worth the trouble any more.
  24. If dust is an issue, glass would definitely be a better option than acrylic. Acrylic is both more likely to suffer from static cling, and more likely to scratch when you wipe it clean.
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