Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kang

  1. Annealing the bronze will be easier than making good castings in straight copper, from all I've seen and read. Copper loves to oxidize, especially when molten... The swords look great! Easy for me to say when it's not my blood, I know, but IMO it was worth all that pain. Happy healing! Kang
  2. Even if the blends on the NMM are not all fully as smooth as they maybe could be, the reflections are in the right places and IMO they absolutely sell the whole "I'm actually made of shiny metal" look. Great job! Kang
  3. Good job! You'll have to do one in old-timey Ottawa Roughriders colours next... :) Kang
  4. Nice job! Deep Ones always remind me of the Squishers of Crackclaw Point, as described by Nimble Dick Crabb: "They look like men till you get close, but their heads is too big, and they got scales where a proper man’s got hair. Fish-belly white they are, with webs between their fingers. They’re always damp and fishy-smelling, but behind these blubbery lips they got rows of green teeth sharp as needles. Some say the First Men killed them all, but don’t you believe it. They come by night and steal bad little children, padding along on them webbed feet with a little squis
  5. <facepalm>The pliers-and-rebar-based ingot tongs above can't be named Ser Robert Tong, that is already what I named my crucible tongs! So, the pliers-tongs are now named Tong Belwas As in, "Tong Belwas needs no tinkly bells... Tong Belwas needs liver and onions!" Better. Also, the next project will be building a newer, bigger, better, actually working sand muller. A sand muller is like a big mixer that, in addition to just stirring, also squashes and fluffs and scrapes and smears. The point of it is to get each grain of sand coated in cla
  6. Nice work, that handle looks really comfortable! At least your sander/grinder actually says "Blade grinding attachment" on it - I had to use my belt sander that's clearly designed for woodworking to grind the bronze axes I made... Yours looks WAY sharper. ...(But I bet mine can cut down trees faster )... Kang
  7. He definitely looks like he means business! The new ridge of scales makes him look more intimidating; before them in the 2nd last pic he looked a bit more friendly than I think you were going for. I'm pretty sure it's actually just the overlap of teeth and lower lip scales, but the very similar angle of the last 2 pix sort of make him look a bit like he's sticking just the tip of a pointed tongue out a little bit, which might be contributing to the friendly look I just mentioned. So that certainly could be mere illusion. Kang
  8. Like the old song says, 4 out of 5 ain't bad. Great job, the 4 that filled look great! Even better once they're polished up I bet - looking forward to more pix. So much for the experimental technique... Seems to me like you'd probably have to do a bit of extra cutting to free that one from the tree anyhow. Kang
  9. Yeah, in your situation, being in business and all, I'd probably look for a ready made option as you suggest; time is money as they say, and I suspect you'd probably rather be spending yours mashing putty. My situation is a little different since at this point in my life, casting metal is 100% just for fun, and a big part of that fun is building my own gear when possible. I'd avoid laser pyrometers for measuring melt temp; they not only apparently cost a little more, but have frequently been said not to be particularly suitable for such applications, due to the reflective nature
  10. Well that was one of my guesses, so I'll double down on the culprit being a cold melt. A pyrometer that can be dipped into the molten metal is the best way to be sure you're up to a specific temperature. My setup is much different than yours, but I've had good luck just cooking the melt for an extra minute or two (about the time it would take me to doff gloves and set up a timer probably, lol) when I've had to try again on thin aluminum castings that failed to fill. No idea how well that timing would translate to your setup though, since I work with larger amounts of molten metal
  11. As you know, all of my vacuum/investment casting lore is merely theoretical as I have only worked with sand molds and larger scale castings in bronze and aluminum. So I can only guess... that said, my money is on either the melt or the mold having been too cold at pouring time. OR... is there any chance you maybe forgot to turn on the vacuum pump? Looking forward to Julia's expert diagnosis of the spruing! Insufficient burnout would have meant there was still water chemically bound up in the investment, which would have boiled out when the metal hit the mold and turned your t
  12. If that was a Johnny Dangerously reference, I approve. But you're kinda showing your age there TS... Bazzy's looking great! Kang
  13. Well, I built my waste oil foundry furnace burner, Lightbringer, a couple years ago now, and it's been serving me very well, running on used cooking oil from local fryers/chip wagons (cut with a little diesel in colder months to aid flow). But I'd noticed in the last couple of melts, it seemed a little sluggish... This is a drip type waste oil burner - a needle valve is opened to allow gravity-forced oil to drip out the end, where a powerful blower flings it into a preheated furnace where it vaporizes and ignites. Many waste oil burners work differently, using atomizing
  14. Not bad, but I can see that you made a mistake there in hour 375. J/K, she's perfect... Truly outstanding! Makes me wish there was a reaction stronger than "Like" that I could click on. Kang
  15. Oooohhh! Nice. What kind of mill are you thinking about getting? I haven't ever done any machining (using a drill press doesn't count, so I'm told ), but those machines are really fun and relaxing to watch. I swear, I could spend hours watching my friend Chirpy's fully rebuilt and restored hypno-shaper clacking away, turning his raw DIY castings into precision steam engine parts. I'm thinking about trying to cast/build some (hobbyist quality) small machine tools in the future using David Gingery's plans, mainly just for a fun series of projects to keep me busy and
  16. With the melting furnaces snowed in for the winter and the greensand frozen in my molding bench, I need to keep myself busy doing other things to avoid going crazy and ending up on the evening news. This means extra D&D sessions (Pathfinder actually), plagiarizing a fellow internet weirdo's ingot tongs design, dredging up months-old arguments with my wife as to the existence of possibly hallucinated local woodland creatures (in yo face, Mrs. Kang!), cleverly naming my homemade foundry tools after A Song of Ice and Fire characters, or whatever it takes... This is what that looks like. Yo
  17. Oh, wow, what a bummer. So weird... I'd expect a slightly slow pour to maybe affect the casting, but not make the whole melt freeze in the crucible! How slow were you pouring anyhow? How much do you trust your pyrometer? I'm wondering if maybe the melt just wasn't as hot as you thought it was. I'm out of my depth when it comes to this small stuff though. Might be worth posting about this one on the casting forum to see if the lost wax/vac assist casting gurus there have any insight. Or maybe Julia will pop in here with some suggestions. Kang
  18. Just a quick update to post a close-up of the silver paint touch-ups on the left edge of the 6: Kang
  19. I cheated a little and used some of my minis tactics to clean up the little dings on the left side of the 6 (silver craft acrylics and a fine tipped beater brush). Then I sprayed on a few coats of gloss sealer to hopefully protect the shiny for a while when it's sitting on the front of my sister's house. Still have to figure out what sort of surface it is going to be mounted on so I can figure out and buy the proper hardware to send along, but otherwise this is a finished project. Probably the last casting before the snow goes away - I've officially surrend
  20. Fiber-based Dad jokes are definitely one of my Things, so no worries there - I totally get it and fully approve. Once the rubber in the vulcanizer heats up and starts to move under all that heat and pressure, it must relieve some of said pressure. So I can see why periodically tightening it down during the process makes sense... I wonder how the guy in that video I posted above deals with that - I bet he grabs some oven mitts every few minutes so he can crank each of those C-clamps a quick quarter turn or so tighter. Kang
  21. Those are gonna look AWESOME in silver! And even more awesomer in gold... Good luck with the pour! Kang
  22. Thanks for setting me straight GHarris, I kind of figured the c-clamps might be too good to be true. As a self-taught amateur in foundry work for the past 4+ years, one thing I've learned is to always take note of the voice of hard-earned experience. I have built a couple of melting furnaces and other foundry tools for the hobby foundry in my backyard, but I haven't done any lost wax casting or spin casting, and I've definitely never cast anything this tiny and detailed, so your insight is appreciated. My experience with making larger castings in aluminum and bronze in greens
  23. Those prices take the small-time operator or hobbyist right out of the game. Hence the DIY approach taken by most foundry hobbyists I've come across. This guy sure didn't spend any $4K on his spin machine! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYVIVzCmH10 Though I will not deny that thing is hideous and probably plotting to send him to the burn unit. Still, adding more splash guards and a coat of paint would be cheap and easy enough. How much better would a commercially made vulcanizer work than his 4 C-clamps and a couple hours in the oven approach, I
  24. 15K?! I almost spit-take'd (took?) OK now I am really curious - What is the big ticket item there? Been hanging around online chatting with internet weirdos who build their own foundry gear from scrap for too long, I guess. Easy enough to see why they do though, when numbers like that start flying around!
  • Create New...