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Everything posted by Kang

  1. I believe Reaper makes a brush-on primer, not that my FLGS ever has any in stock (grrr)... Humidity is supposedly the worst spray-primer killer, so if you live somewhere that is humid a lot, you might have trouble finding good days to prime unless you get some brush-on. I hear airbrushing your primer can avoid the humidity-related issues, but I can't swear to that from personal experience (not an airbrush guy... at least not yet). It's good to have some brush-on primer handy anyhow, even if it's only ever used to get those nooks and crannies that the spray can has trouble reaching... Whizard Hlavaz posted what I found to be some excellent tips on priming in this thread over in the Painting Tips & Advice forum not long ago - you may find them useful as well. Read the whole thread, as some further explanations are given later on toward (what is currently) the end of the thread. Based on this advice and the way you've described your technique, it sounds to me as though you are using too much. That, and any humidity issues you may have, are probably the key factors you might want to work on. As far as spray-on primer brands go, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer comes highly rated. You pay a fair bit more for a much smaller can than you'd get when buying the regular spray-can varieties, but it gives a very nice smooth white finish. Don't know if you're a white-primer; if not, it is possible this brand is available in other colours - check your local hobby shop or online to be sure. Good luck! Kang
  2. I have to agree - saw these at Michael's and thought, hey W&N kolinskies, must be pretty good... but alas, they don't hold a candle to the Series 7 brushes. There is a huge difference. When you say your local expensive art store can't help - maybe this is a moot point, but did you actually ask them, or just browse through the shop? First time I went hunting for W&N S7's, I just hunted through the art store and found nothing... After about 45 minutes of fruitless searching, I was about to give up and leave but a clerk asked if he could help and presto! I learned they keep them behind the counter in a locked case. Took the guy 1/2 hour to find the key, but I've never been happier with a new brush than I was that night when I tried it out for the first time... But yeah, Blick's is supposed to be the best place online in terms of price and selection - I'd use it myself, but I fear they would have higher prices for shipping to Canada and the art store price I paid wasn't as much more than "cheap" Michael's brushes as I expected anyhow. Good luck, Kang
  3. Thanks for the clarifications! Do you ever wait for the primer to dry between spraying faces in a given coat, so as to avoid wet-on-wet grit issues where the spray from adjacent faces overlaps? I take it you haven't found it to be an issue, though I'm not 100% clear on why that would be different than waiting for it to dry between coats. Maybe I'm just splitting hairs here... I do tend to obsess over minutiae (a common trait in this hobby, I'd guess). Thanks again, Kang
  4. Sci-fi minis don't ordinarily do much for me, but for some reason I find myself coming back to this thread again and again to have another look. I swear, if Mr. head-on-a-spike doesn't pop that giant whitehead on his belly soon, I'm gonna SCREAM! So, mission accomplished I guess. Cool minis! Kang
  5. Thanks again Joe, and no worries about the timing - that's one less potential pitfall I have to worry about so I'm a happy camper for the moment... Now I guess I just have to wait and see if it works on this kind of rubber! Oh, and just in case anyone really is keeping an eye on this topic with a rubber toy in one hand and a bucket of mineral oil in the other (now there's an image...), you'll be happier than I was to learn I've had to postpone my upcoming cottage trip - so I shouldn't be off-line for as long as I had thought in my last post. Kang
  6. I'm going to try this for sure if/when I ever get my fiasco of a rubber toy conversion project back on track - pretty sure it'll need repriming. Questions though - in step 6, would you wait for the first spray-pass to dry before spraying again from another angle? That whole wet-on-wet primer = clumps thing... Or is that just something to do before giving the whole mini a second coat? Or do you maybe turn it far enough that you're not re-spraying any still-wet areas with pass #2? How many coats do you use when you apply primer this way? Great priming tips, Whiz! Thanks, Kang
  7. So, to follow up on this, I tried Wal-Mart's paint dept. the other day and did not find any mineral oil. I saw mineral spirits, and remembering there were several other names for mineral oil, I took a closer look. The label had all kinds of warnings about wearing rubber gloves and respirators, etc., and I slowly reached the conclusion that, "This is almost certainly not the main ingredient in baby oil!" :o) So I went over to the pharmacy dept. and picked up a bottle of baby oil, with an ingredients list as follows: "mineral oil, parfum". Turned out to be just enough in the bottle to cover the rubber mini. Add another $3.50 or so to my bill for this thing - glad the original toy only cost $1! Hopefully the perfume won't interfere with the leaching of plasticizers and its smell will wash off fairly easily - baby-perfume smelling monsters with flakey paint jobs are not quite what I had in mind for this thing... If I get any noticeable results from the oil-dip, I'll post them here in case the info is useful for those who might try converting/painting rubber toys in the future. It will have to soak for a few days though, and I'll be off-line for a few more after that. So hopefully nobody's holding their breath waiting except me. Thanks for the tips & your interest, Kang
  8. Not to sound overly contrary, but a whole lot of champion painters would probably disagree. It is very possible, not to mention a popular choice for the past several years, to use a technique called "Non-Metallic Metal" (AKA "NMM") for painting swords, armor, and other metal bits on minis. Some painters can get absolutely incredible results this way. There's a pinned thread here in the Tips & Advice Forum with links to all kinds of painting tutorials - go here and click on a few of the many links that mention NMM. That should get you started. I haven't had much luck myself getting NMM to work, but I haven't really put in much of an effort either. But I plan to, someday. Demi-metallics is another good way of dealing with metal parts - it uses a combination of metallic and non-metallic paints. There might be some tutorials for that in the pinned thread as well. Good luck, and welcome to the forums! I think you'll find the community here to be extremely friendly and helpful. Kang
  9. OK, so the spray paint I tried didn't really dry all over either, though it did end up a little better than the primer layer. Not sure if it's because I used the "for plastic" spray or because I've got enough layers on that the still-sticky parts & plasticizers are sealed below enough semi-dry layers to let the top layer dry... for the most part... for the time being. Maybe I could douse it with more plastic paint and get it even better still, but who knows if it would stay that way, plus this is just getting ridiculous. So I'm going to try and give the mineral oil dip a whirl and just hope waiting while it soaks up all those nasty plasticizers isn't the reason the mini won't be ready when the party encounters the monster it was created to represent. But I know nothing about the stuff... I googled it and apparently you can often find it at the drug store. Seems like it has a million different and videly varied uses though - so I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions for where I might get the best price on enough of it to soak a rather large mini (ie. bigger than my hand) in, if not at the drug store? I also read that baby oil is simply mineral oil with a little bit of perfume added in. If I'm having trouble finding a product just marked, "mineral oil", can I assume that isn't just BS and use baby oil instead, or would the perfumes they add to it mess up my results? I can live with a mini that smells nice, but not if it interferes with my painting! Thanks, Kang
  10. Wow, thanks for all the great tips! Perhaps unfortunately, I jumped the gun a bit and went out and picked up some spray paint for plastics and gave it a shot before seeing anything posted after my last entry in this thread. Checked it this morning - the paint didn't crack. I still have to check if it dried properly though; was too scared to touch and check for stickiness before leaving for work today in case I would have discovered I'd made an even bigger mess of things. I'll give that a try tonight and get back Monday at the latest to let you guys know how it went. Keeping my fingers crossed - I still have to convince some colours other than green to stick on this mini, although they're mostly over the green stuff areas where the primer seemed to go on fine, so that should be OK too... I'm hoping. Wound up pouring on some Future too, for the water effect. Seems to be working nicely, and although it has to be poured in layers, the layers can be a lot thicker than the stuff I had been using before that. It does shrink a little as it dries, although it does so nice and evenly. So I guess I'm just going to have to sand down & recoat the raised edges where it sort of crawled up the sides of the Lego I'm using to contain it on the base, and maybe on the edges if the places where one Lego block meets another are visible, once the Lego frame comes off. Still better than keeping on having to paint on paper-thin layers of Delta gloss varnish, then carve half of it back off the next day when the shrinkage has caused air bubbles and whiteness... Thanks again for all the tips and suggestions! Kang
  11. Well, it's already got primer all over it so painting right on the rubber is no longer an option unless I strip it, and I'm concerned that Future might not act that much differently than my paint has. Maybe I'll grab some of that mineral oil and try Joe's idea first if I can figure out where to find some, though a week is a long time to wait. Especially since I've been sort of subtly stalling the PC's for a couple of weeks anyhow already, lest they encounter it before it is painted... Joe, does your chemistry-infested brain know if ordinary spray paint from a cheap rattle can might stick to this without using the mineral oil bath? Or would the polymer thingy be an issue again like it was with the primer? The mini is going to be mostly all one colour to begin with anhow, so that might not be a bad idea even if I wasn't having this trouble. I'm basically hoping to find a shortcut here if possible. Thanks for the tips so far, Kang Oh, PS. Since Froggy, the infamous master of conversions, has replied, I might as well mention that the squeaky toy is, er, was, originally a frog! Now it's been converted to a froghemoth (based on the illustration in dungeon magazine #128), which is I guess some sort of distant cousin. Small world, eh?
  12. Pretty much as the thread title says, though to be more specific it is Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (white). Converted a rubber squeak-toy for a mini I need for my D&D campaign. (Sorry, no pix yet but I will post something in WiP eventually once I get time to set up for photos.) I filled the hollow interior of the squeaky-toy with plaster so the problem is not that it is flexible, because that is no longer the case; the primer just never fully dried. Even after several weeks, it feels a bit sticky and I get primer on my fingers if I hold onto it for a minute or so. Note, when I sprayed the primer on it was fairly humid; just didn't have any other option this summer as it's been raining pretty much every day around here. But I suspect it is mainly an issue of the primer's reaction to the rubber rather than a humidity issue. So last night I tried to apply a thin glaze over bare primer as per Lunchbox's recent tutorial thread, but it just beaded and rolled off! Thicker paint worked better, but by this morning it had all sort of cracked so that now there are zig-zagging lines of primer-white running all over it. I guess this is because the primer didn't dry properly... Though I should mention this did not happen on the sections where primer is covering green stuff, where the primer seems to have dried better. I think I might try giving it a shot of Dullcote tonight when I get home; maybe once that's dry (if it doesn't have a bad reaction to the primer), I can paint over that without having this problem. Anyone else ever see this happen, or have any idea whether I'm right or wrong about it being a matter of the primer not liking the rubber or whether the Dullcote idea is likely to work? I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Oh, and while I'm at it, does anyone have any suggestions for a cheaper way to do a water effect on the base than buying that expensive Envirotex stuff or what have you? So far I'm working with thin layers of white glue and Delta Ceramcoat gloss varnish, but it's incredibly time-consuming and less transparent than I'd like with any kind of thickness. If I maybe pour on some Future a few mm deep (appx 1/8 inch or so), does anyone know if it would dry to a fairly smooth surface? Thanks again, Kang
  13. I'd have put that slightly differently... but only slightly: Very curvy. And that top is not going to hold her in at all! Kang
  14. Yes, Martin's A Song of Ice and Fire series (of which A Game of Thrones is the first volume) is absolutely incredible; there's no denying it. Best I've ever read. But there are no dwarves in the series, unless you count Tyrion Lannister, who is a little (human) person and not a fantasy-race-type dwarf at all. So while Salvatore's Forgotten Realms novels may seem lame by comparison (I have actually quite enjoyed them; they make a great light weekend or bus ride read), they are by far the better source of the two for dwarves in the fantasy-game race sense. More and more dwarves do get introduced as Salvatore's series unfolds, and they're generally fairly memorable characters. To sum up, yes, you must read Martin; just don't expect to find any dwarf-lore therein. Hope that helps, Kang
  15. I have 4 that I keep in rotation. I put Gunk in the center well - then use the other 5 for paints. I mix and shape my brush on the flat areas. $1 each. Well then, I guess it is safe to assume they can be found anywhere you can find a dollar store... in Ontario. Hopefully elsewhere too - best deal I've ever found for minis gear. Definitely worth getting a few of them, as they're cheap and only have 6 wells as you mentioned. Kang
  16. Before this began happening, had you used Dullcote before? If you had and aren't doing anything differently, then it's probably not your spraying technique (is it maybe a new can or something?) But if a month ago is when you first started using Dullcote, then yeah, what everyone else said. Spraying too much is probably the most common problem that can cause this from what I've heard, so it's a good starting point at least. I had trouble like this when I first started using the stuff; the problems I was having were discussed in this thread. Never really resolved it though; I wound up using a different matte sealer on that mini. Good luck, Kang
  17. Wow, she's absolutely incredible, as expected! What are those leaves on the base - real leaves, or something sculpted? They fit in really well, both scale-wise and with the general "feel" of this mini. Not that I don't like those birch seed thingies everyone uses, but a little variety in one's basing kit has got to be a good thing, right? Kang
  18. I got a couple of ceramic escargot dishes at the dollar store for a buck each. Can't beat that price, cleanup is a breeze, and the wells are similar in size to those in the plastic palettes I've seen most often. 100% satisfied. I've been back since, and they still sell them more than a year later - same goes for other dollar stores in my area. Kang
  19. Glad to hear you like your new brush, but in case you are trying to find the Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes mentioned by Ishil when your next brush has deteriorated enough to warrant replacement, note that you won't find them at Michael's - you'll have to either go online (I hear good things about the Dick Blick's site) go to a real (ie. "brick & mortar") artist's supply store and ask a clerk about the Series 7 brushes - chances are they're locked up behind the counter. They keep their points so well that a lot of painters don't use anything but a #1 - including painting pupils in the eyes, etc. Far as brush-on gloss goes, I'm quite happy with my big bottle of Delta Cermacoat gloss somethingorother (varnish? polyurethane something? I can't remember but it works well as a sealer and you can Dullcote over it just fine - if I remember to check tonight I'll come back and edit the actual name in). It's milky white but dries clear; a little bit thick but I've had decent luck thinning it with water. Got it pretty cheap even without considering there's enough to last me pretty much forever, and this one is available at Michael's. It's what I used for the tentacle-slime on my avatar and various other minis' tongues and shiny bits, which can be viewed in my Index post (linked in my sig). I am about to try using it for doing a shallow swampy water effect on the base for a large conversion project I'm working on; hopefully that'll work out OK too if I don't try to pour on too much at once... But another option for sealing minis with lots of metal, should the brush-on gloss idea still seem too shiny-wet, might be to paint, spray on gloss for protection as normal, spray on matte (aka Dullcote) to kill the shine as normal, then go over the highlights of your metallic sections with a bit more metallic paint, to bring back some of that shine a bit. I actually started another thread some months back where the relative pros and cons of different methods for sealing metallics while maintaining their shininess were debated somewhat - here's a link if you're interested. I don't recall any definite conclusions having been drawn as to the best way to seal metallics, though. Kang
  20. Kang


    Great job! Just another nod to the awesome OSL firelight on the hair (& shoulder & hand & sleeve). Can't really see her eyes in the photos though - if you plan to add a few more pix, maybe a close-up of the face would be nice. But you really pulled this one off, that's for sure - I can't wait to paint my own Song of Ice & Fire minis (though I'm a little intimidated by Tom Meier's incredibly finely sculpted detail!). The second wave of them is sounding like it will include many of my favourite characters and should be really great for anyone who's a fan of either the novels or minis in general, too. Kang
  21. Heh, I'm with you in that boat. I've never pinned anything in my life!! Then this is the perfect time to start! This CMoN tutorial by Jester should help. I've posted a link to it here a few times before, and I can only recall one person ever responding back that they prefer some other method (and it wasn't the person who was having trouble pinning). The hardest part of pinning is getting the second hole to line up with the first, and this little trick makes that super-easy. All you need is some poster-tack stuff and a little spit. Oh, and your pin vise & bits, of course... I've had mixed results using the (relatively) well-known short-pin-with-a-blob-of-paint-on-the-end technique, but since I found this tut I've been in pinning heaven. Kang
  22. Pin it. Pin everything. If you have to ask, pin it. Pinning is fun! pinpinpinpinpin. Anyone ever see the movie Pin? It's one of my favourite Mad Ventriloquist movies. My wife can't stand it. Magic, starring Anthony Hopkins, which I've only recently become aware of, is also an excellent example of the genre. OK, I'm beginning to stray off-topic here; better get out now while I still can... PS. Sorry, too much caffeine this afternoon. Kang
  23. You could try a Google image search on "otyugh" (a classic D&D monster that looks suspiciously like this critter and could be described as a dung monster without being too far off the mark considering its lifestyle). Should give you some reasonable ideas/reference images, anyhow. Whatever you choose, it probably shouldn't look clean. Good luck, and don't forget to post some pix once you're done; I don't think I've ever seen one of these painted! Kang
  24. Nice! I would have at least considered adding a wristwatch with some greenstuff though. Bigfeet are all wearing them these days, basically in hopes of ape-pearing to be a mere hoax, thus discrediting any lucky nature photographers who happen to catch them on film. And, y'know, so they won't be late for work... Kang
  25. Wow, that setup looks great! If you're interested in doing a little experiment, you can normally remove dry-erase with a wet-erase marker by writing over top of the dry-erase drawing. Then you just erase the wet-erase normally. Or was that the other way around? I don't think so but maybe someone else knows what I am talking about better than I do... For sure though, one of them will erase the other from most smooth surfaces. I learned about this when I was reading up on battle grid systems that claim they work with both types of markers, and it has worked for me in the past when we've left (I'm pretty sure it was) dry-erase ink on a sheet of flexible plastic that we lay on top of an easel-sized flip-pad of 1" graph paper for too many weeks. Maybe just try it on a scrap piece of plexi or in an unobtrusive corner somewhere first, just in case I did get it the wrong way around... Sure, you might be slightly more likely to get inky hands from using dry-erase, but to me it's worth it to not have to spray water all over the grid & everyone's character sheets and books to clean up, or to have a bunch of soggy and colourful paper towels all over the place. But whatever works, right? Good luck, Kang
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