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Kang

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Everything posted by Kang

  1. I haven't actually tried combining them, but I have read up a little about it - from what I've seen, I think that you should be OK on both questions as long as you let both types dry completely before using the other type on the same areas. Water-based acrylics and smelly-based enamels will not mix well when wet. If you're worried about the solvents in the enamels wreaking havoc on already-painted and dried layers of acrylic, you could always try it on a test mini or else seal between coats, though it should not be a problem from what I have read. It might not actually help, but it certainly won't hurt to let either type - especially the enamels - sit for a day or so to fully cure, even after they appear completely dry, if you're worried. I've been using acrylics since I discovered the boxed set of 12 Citadel "Creature Colours" (IIRC) acrylics that inspired me to give up on enamels many years ago too (huh? cleans up with water?!? OMG!!! No more getting grounded for dripping Dad's Turpentine and Var-Sol on the carpet!), but I just recently picked up some little square bottles of Testors enamels (metallic silver & gold) again to experiment with - and a bottle of their thinner of course, since I haven't lived with Mom & Dad's garage full of smelly chemicals for quite some time (these days I only have my wife to worry about, carpet-wise). So I'm certainly hoping they work well together! I'd probably keep separate brushes for your acrylics and enamels though. Personally, I cringe at the thought of exposing my good kolinskies to the enamels! Gonna pick up a half-decent synthetic brush or 2 for my first few experiments... Good luck, and please do post to let us know how it went! I'll try and do the same whenever I eventually get around to trying out my new enamels with acrylics. Kang
  2. Reaper has so many minis already that are incredibly similar to creatures from D&D, which is one of the main reasons I started buying them. Just to name a couple of examples of creatures that aren't in WotC's SRD (not sure if that makes a difference, but if it does these would presumably be the worst offenders), there are the bathalians and the eye beast. I'm sure there are probably a few more like that, and the list of D&D-like creatures Reaper makes whose "twins" are listed as open content in the SRD is... extensive. To say the least. I can't see how dragon-folk could be more obviously a clone of WotC IP than the bathalians AKA mind flayers already are, just by virtue of having "hair" and no tails. Am I missing something here? Kang
  3. Yup - the drill bit chart Doug Sunsdeath posted. My drill index set lists both the # notation and decimals for each bit - #65 is equivalent to .035. This is confirmed by the drill bit chart, so it looks like that decimal value is in inches. According to the chart, the #65 bit would seem to fall somewhere between 1/32 and 3/64, assuming the fractions you saw were in inches like the chart. If you use epoxy or some kind of gap-filling superglue, you may be able to get away with a 1/32 bit, which is only 0.0037 inches bigger than the #65. That doesn't sound like much of a difference to me - maybe even a regular superglue would work OK, though you may want to test it on something that doesn't matter first, rather than risk having a mini you've already finished eventually fall apart on you. I would suggest going back to your local hobby store and find out what range of bit sizes that $10 dremel set you mentioned has - that may be your best bet as you will probably have use for a few different sizes eventually anyhow (ie. for pinning heavier parts or extremely tiny ones) - if that store really doesn't sell individual bits. I can almost guarantee Home Depot won't have anything this small. They certainly don't have them on the shelf at any locations in my area, at any rate. Good luck, Kang
  4. ...I don't know if different brands of paperclip have identical diameters and I can't remember the number of the bit I usually use for mine - I'll try and remember to check tonight and post again tomorrow to let you know about the bit # and paperclip brand name....OK, so it took me 3 days to remember to check that stuff before dashing off to work each morning... I use a #65 bit with standard sized paperclips. The paperclips are Acme brand (smooth, standard size) if it matters, but it probably doesn't. Good luck with your new pin vise - happy pinning! Kang
  5. See the pinned Stripping Materials Compendium thread in this very section. But if you haven't already clogged up the details of the orange area with all those coats of paint, you could always just paint white over what you have and go to town without having to strip the whole mini.
  6. That doesn't come in a convienant pocketwatch size either. Just get the castors, they're in the catalog. It's kinda bulky but you'll get used to it. Airport security is a pain though. Castors? Nah, all that fantasy-themed stuff's in the DHL line - Chronoscope has no spellcastors. Oh wait, never mind - it appears I can't spellcasters. Oh, c'mon... you know you love a good pun. (That was y'all's cue to say me you'll let me know when you hear one) Kang
  7. Wow, that is wonderful! Congrats on the gold, as if there were ever any doubt... AIEEEeeeee!(that was me shouting out for more angles & greenwork shots) Kang
  8. Great idea! That is so awesome. I used to have a makeshift setup something like this, consisting of 2 blank battle grids from the first set of DDM side by side on my dining room table, with an old sheet of glass I found in my basement lying on top. It was so sweet... until the glass cracked and broke into several pieces when I was trying to put it away one day. Ever since, I've been dreaming of building a permanent game table for my D&D games with a similar setup, only with plexiglass instead of the real (and real dangerous) stuff. With wet-erase markers, you could throw a tablecloth over it and eat off the thing too, saving space while avoiding accidentally erasing your maps. I have also considered using my pin vise to drill tiny holes in the plexiglass at each grid intersection, so that we could use one of those retractable badge-clips (similar items sold as line-of-sight indicators) attached to a thumb-tack stuck in one of the holes to determine line of sight/effect on-the-fly, but that would mean drilling a LOT of holes. Given this and the fact my carpentry skills leave something to be desired, it might never happen... For now, my group will have to make do with our easel-sized flip-pad of 1" graph paper and sheet of flexible plastic we adopted when my too-small-anyway-and-not-very-dry-erase-friendly laminated DMG sample grid decided a week of being rolled up in elastics meant it should make every effort to remain rolled up forever. I like your idea of leaving some space around the edge or edges for quick-reference tables etc., a-la DM's screen. That could save a lot of time on game days that might otherwise be spent flipping pages. If you do ever get some sort of frame built for this thing, make sure to post some more pix - I for one would be very interested in seeing what you come up with. PS. Glad to hear I'm not the only one who's used Chessex boxes for altitude markers... if only they stacked up better! Kang
  9. I can't blame you for wanting to support your FLGS if it is a small business, but if that GW pin vise (Can't access GW links from my office, sorry) is really similar to the one Rastl posted, you can get virtually the same thing - including a selection of bits - for half that, by giving up nothing more than GW's logo on the package (I can't personally vouch for Joe Kutz's 1/3, but it may well be true). IMO even if you do buy that one, it is worth making a special trip to check out any other good hobby stores in your area as well; if not for pin vises, then for spare/replacement bits, as well as just to see what other types of tools and supplies they have that might come in handy for minis - jeweller's saws & blades, hobby knives, files, paint, Testors Dullcote spray, precision-tipped glue dispensers, basing needs, etc. I normally use paperclips for pinning, as I mentioned in the post right before the one where you asked - you must have already been typing; don't you hate it when that happens? - but I don't know if different brands of paperclip have identical diameters and I can't remember the number of the bit I usually use for mine - I'll try and remember to check tonight and post again tomorrow to let you know about the bit # and paperclip brand name. One thing I didn't mention above is that I generally take my needle file or a dremel - whichever's handier at the moment - and roughen up the pin slightly to help the glue grab hold a little better. I can't say whether it does any good, but I don't think it hurts either. Some people swear by brass rods or guitar strings for pins, and they have their reasons, but to me paperclips work just fine if you have a matching bit, and they have always seemed so much easier to come by - a box of 100 (that's a pretty small box) should last just about forever, if you re-use them and take care to hide them from your family. Good luck, Kang
  10. My pin vise is much like the one Rastl linked as well, and I'm quite happy with it. You just choose a bit of the appropriate size for your pin, insert it into the business end of the pin vise, and tighten the metal end that surrounds the spot where the bit goes. The wider free-spinning part at the other end lets you hold the drill in one hand and spin it with that hand's fingers while applying pressure with the palm, and hold the mini steady with the other. I'm able to get the bit to turn with very little wobble, which makes a big difference at these scales. Mind you, I have not worked with other kinds of pin vises, and I'm sure the ball-end type and others (perhaps even the one in the OP, for all I know) work well too. Anyhow, the one I have came with a small selection of bits that are really all you need to get you started with pinning. Went for about $7 at Hobby House here in Ottawa (they sell model railroad gear and plastic car/tank/plane model kits mostly, but I've found it is a great place to buy tools for working on minis - the railroad scenery stuff is good for basing minis too). Similar shops I've visited across Canada (and presumably elsewhere as well) all sell similar stuff, so you may not have to shop online unless you want to. After my first bit eventually bound up and snapped off deep in a tiny pewter hole (what a nightmare getting it out, BTW), I realized I would eventually need more of them, so I went out and paid way too much (not that the normal price is excessive - this one actually had the wrong price tag) for a set of one each of all the really tiny sizes of bits (#61-80 IIRC), which is actually great as now I can better match up the size of my bit to the size of my chosen pin (normally a bit of a paperclip). Of course, that means I normally* always use the same bit, and if/when it ever snaps I'll have to get a replacement. But thanks to the kit it came in, I at least know what size number I'll need to get replaced - and these types of shops normally do sell individual bits as well. Also, before you try any pinning, check out this pinning tutorial by Jester. You'll have to endure looking at an extreme-close up photo of Jester's spit, but it will save you enough time, effort, and frustration when you realize you have to somehow make the holes on either side of the join match up with extreme precision, that this momentary gross-out will be well worth your while. Don't waste your time with the various other methods out there - this way works perfectly every time and will not only show you the location of where the second hole should be drilled, but the angle as well. I hope this has been helpful. * for pinning much bigger or smaller pieces, obviously sometimes you will need to vary the size of the pin, thus the hole, thus the bit. Kang
  11. Sounds like you're looking for something like the SE-NMM (sky-earth NMM, which is basically NMM with the horizon painted in) technique for a mirror-like reflectivity. There are some good online tutorials for this, some are for painting gold or other colours of SE-NMM but most are for the silver/chrome look. If you're willing to do a bit of searching, you'll find some for sure. Hope that helps. Maybe someone else will post some links for you. In the meantime you might check in Demonelf3's Tutorials Database thread, or maybe the articles section over at CMoN. But those are really just a couple of starting points... Kang
  12. Well, I went to Polymeric Systems' webpage and after looking at the details about these 2 types of putties and a bunch of other varieties they sell, some of which seem like they could be useful, I finally discovered they are the same company who makes the actual green and brown stuff we all know and love. Like an idiot, I had not realized it was the same company. So I'm guessing that since the company that makes it recommends the green and brown for our uses, they are probably more approriate than the Aquamend and QuikPlastic varieties. The fact that I know where I can buy some in an actual store may someday prompt me to pick up a stick of QuikPlastic just to play around with, but for now I guess I'll stick with the green stuff... at least until I run out. This is kind of funny considering that for a moment, I thought I had discovered something new: I tried clicking on the site's "buy it here" button from their green stuff page, and it brough up a bunch of links - including Reaper's online store. How in blazes did I not realize this was the same company?!? Anyhow, thanks for your comments. I'd still be interested in hearing about anyone else's experiments with QuikPlastic (which seems more appropriate than AquaMend, which contains fiberglass to reinforce and sticks to wet things - ie. sounds a tad lumpy and messy) or any of PSI's other 2-part putties - for example, according to their page, QuikWood is useful for hobby/crafts and can be sculpted or carved for intricate detail... Kang
  13. Figured the Conversions forum was the place for this, though I suppose Sculpting would have been appropriate as well... Yesterday I noticed these 2 types of 2-part epoxy putty in the canoe repair aisle at MEC while shopping for a new camp stove. Came in tubes containing 130 gram sticks, each with one colour on the outside and another in the middle. Went for $15cdn, which is way cheaper by volume than I've seen blister packs of green stuff ribbons in local stores. The 2 products were called Polymeric Systems Aquamend Putty Sticks and Polymeric Systems QuikPlastik Putty Sticks. From the brief descriptions on MEC's webpage, the former sets hard and sandable and can be used to repair fibreglass, metal, wood, and PVC, while the latter can be moulded and shaped before it hardens and bonds to all major plastic types except polyolefins(?). Both are white when cured. Has anyone tried using either of these where green stuff would normally be used, ie. for sculpting and/or gap filling with pewter minis? If so, which kind, what were you doing with it, and how well did it turn out? If I buy some to try out with minis, am I wasting my time and money? If not, which one should I try? I do a lot more gap-filling than sculpting, if that makes any difference. Thanks, Kang
  14. Hey Moon, great paintjob on this one, and I like the sculpt too. Most of my old (soft lead) minis from that era have mashed-up noses and squished-flat hands - if you've had this guy since '84, you've obviously taken better care of your collection than I did back then! Have you checked out Joe Kutz's thread linking to tons of old RP catalog photos over in the General Discussion/General Fantasy forum yet? The thread's been there for a good 6 months but only recently came to my attention when a 1st time poster bumped it back up top, and it made me think of all these classic minis you've been posting lately. Keep posting that new paint on old lead! Kang
  15. Check the bit you're using to see if it might have broken off in the hole. That might explain why you're haing trouble drilling deeper. If that's the case, a magnet and a thin wire that conducts magentism (my terminology may be wrong there) may help extract the broken tip, and you can use another bit to continue drilling. Hopefully that's not the problem - those tips can be a real pain to coax out. Good luck! Kang
  16. I have those guys, and IIRC they're roughly human sized (ie. 25mm-scale RP humans, that is). I don't know if that helps, but they'd be fine for monsters or PC's or whatever on the tabletop if you don't mind them being a little small compared with, say, similarly-themed current Reaper models. If you do mind, you'll probably grumble that they should go away, make up their minds as to whether they are tall kobolds or short lizardfolk, and c'mon back to let you know once they've figured it out. BTW, Thanks for posting this, Joe - because of this, I've already found model numbers for several figs in my collection that I'd long since given up on ever IDing, having forgotten long ago who had even manufactured them! And it only took me about 10 minutes. I'm sure I'll find a few more that I own once I have a chance to really look through this stuff in detail. Any chance that names will eventually be added for those that currently just have numbers? Such as these, which I seem to remember being called Draconians, but that could just be because I was just getting heavily into this new thing called Dragonlance when I bought them; or this guy, who I seem to remember being one of 2 "balrogs" (or maybe it was (mis)spelled "barlogs"?) from the same blister pack (couldn't find his buddy here, sadly, but this guy is definitely one of that pair), but again, maybe that's just because I was just getting heavily into Tolkien at the time... This guy is certainly WAY smaller than GW's balrog mini... Gosh, it's all so long ago, and I was so young at the time and couldn't have cared less what name the manufacturer gave them. This bear is, I'm pretty sure, the same sculpt as one I have that came as a sort of werebear set, along with his humanoid form (actually more like ogre or giant sized, but fairly human looking) in a similar pose only standing more upright and holding a club in his right hand (IIRC), sporting sideburns similar to the fur on the sides of the bear's face... I guess some of these have been repackaged in different ways a few times over the years. Fascinating stuff, thanks again for posting it. Quite a trip down memory lane - sorry if they caused me to ramble on a bit. Kang
  17. I though the exact same thing! Nice work! Beautifully composed, painted, and quite frankly, fun to look at! With all the Bugs Bunny cartoons I've watched in my lifetime, I'm surprised I didn't think that too; guess I was too busy being reminded of the Swedish Chef. Bork bork bork! Very entertaining mini-diorama! I love stuff like this. Kang
  18. Oh yeah, it's Con time, isn't it; no wonder I've whipped through all the new posts in all my favorite categories in record time today... No better reason than that. I think I can top it, though it may require an excess of parentheses - my extremely pregnant wife is booked for a C-section in a couple of days and has been in early stage labour for 3 weeks now (apparently that is possible - who knew? Our son was born 6.5 weeks early and very suddenly, 2 years less a day before the scheduled C-section, so this part never came up before). This one, our second, is a girl. Apparently that (the imminent delivery etc. - not the baby's gender) means I can't leave her (the wife, not the unborn baby girl... though a strong case could be made) alone at our house in the middle of nowhere with no car (our mini-van is near death and we won't be trading it in for a new car until today just after she picks me up after work in our other vehicle) for days at a time. I've been pretty much chained to her side all month - I think the cabin fever has me almost as eager for this delivery as she is, despite having no 10+ pound(!) baby inside me. Plus, currently-high-maintenance wife aside, I'm not exactly eager to try my luck at crossing the US border. What can I say; I was young once upon a time, and those customs agents have very long memories... 'Nuff said. ...Too much, probably. Kang
  19. Well, that certainly explains the hyper-realism. But I have to wonder how they got these ugly buglies to sit still while someone dipped them into the mold-making goo? :o) Kang
  20. There's a solution that gives you the durable coat you want for gaming, yet leaves you with a nice matte finish: Use a few coats of a gloss sealer for the strongest protection, then once that is completely dry give it a light application of a matte sealer such as Testors Dullcote - Dullcote applied too thick will certainly go glossy like you mentioned (I've struggled with that before myself), but a thin coat of it over a layer of gloss should remain matte. Nice work by the way; I came off my own painting hiatus the better part of a decade ago, and I think you've already painted several more minis since you came back than I have... I really gotta pick up the pace! Kang
  21. Wow, those Pardulon scorpions are extremely realistic! Had to actually check the link to verify they weren't real scorpions, though the stingers don't quite look as incredibly sharp as real scorpions'. Probably for the best, really... I mean, nobody wants to see (real) blood on the game table, right? Still, I could believe they were real scorpion exoskeletons with a good coat of varnish of something. Anyhow, just wanted to point out there's always the dollar-store plastic critter option if you can't find any suitably-sized ones actually made for tabletop gaming and/or miniature-hobbyism. Obviously, if you love minis then you'd prefer an actual mini, but in a pinch, a cheap child's toy can work well too. My D&D group has a rubber toy scorpion that sees tabletop action pretty much any time we need something large and many-legged... or featuring pincers/stingers or what have you, for that matter. OK, so it might have actually come from WalMart or some other store, but you get the idea... I've seen plastic animals for sale pretty cheap at Michael's too, so next time you're shopping for basing materials or whatever, it couldn't hurt to take a look. Kang
  22. Thanks! I might try to start with squar movement though until I get more terrain pieces. Yeah, you can convert from 1" square grid to using rulers, and if all you are worried about is how far along the tabletop your minis can move in a turn, you'll be fine. But if I may assume my typical role of devil's advocate for a moment, I must point out that you'll also have to retool much of the combat & spellcasting rules to some extent, as a lot of these rules rely on the square grid, such as using the grid intersections as the target point for spells, deciding who is affected by line spells, who is a valid target for a charge or an attack with a reach weapon, etc., any of which could make for a heated argument between DM and/or player(s) if the rule changes are not well-considered and clearly spelled out before you begin using them in play. Not saying any of these things would be that hard to refit; just that you might be creating more extra work for yourself than you bargained for. You may find it's easier to simply accept the abstraction that is D&D's square grid. At first I sort of thought the square grid was a bit limiting too, but eventually I decided that the extra work in changing the rules to get rid of it was more of a pain than just living with it. This is all just my 2cp; the fact it didn't work out that way for my group certainly doesn't mean that this kind of change isn't the right choice for your campaign. But I expect it will give you more headaches than placing your campaign in a Middle-Eastern-like setting will. Good luck! Kang
  23. You beat me to it - they have them at Ikea here in Canada too. These are round and cheap and roughly 1cm thick, maybe a mm or 2 more (I haven't actually measured them...) Interestingly enough (though probably only to me), I recently learned that things you put under pots to keep from burning your table (like these things) are called "trivets". I also have some square ones roughly half as thick, but unfortunately I can't remember where they came from. Oh my goodness, I just noticed that Ardice is also from Ottawa. Yeah, if you're looking for the thicker ones, the Ikea here has them for sure. Just get off Hwy. 417 at Greenbank and head south for about a block; you can't miss it. But you probably know that. I would imagine any Wal-Mart would have something similar, likely in with the kitchen stuff. (EDIT - Whoa, just noticed something else - Alicetrade must really want to sell some cork, 'cause Ardice asked about this over 3 years ago! I sure hope she found some by now...) Kang
  24. Thanks treide, I added that info to the post with the efreeti. I guess you're right that I have found the info on most of those old minis by now, though I am still hoping to track down a bit more specific information on some, such as the tree-dude. (His actual name, for instance...) Oh, and thanks for tipping me off to that Stuff of Legends site too - I'll have a look when I get a chance. Anyhow, back to discussing 72Moonglum's mini - I don't want to be responsible for a thread-jacking here. If anyone else cares to comment on my old minis, please do so over in my thread(s). Kang
  25. Nice! I am a fan of the old sculpts as well, somewhat blobby-looking by today's standards or not - just makes painting them a greater challenge, or at least a challenge of a different sort. Said challenge being, if I may, to give the illusion of high detail rather than to accurately paint the intricately sculpted details of today's minis... Definitely a major nostalgia moment whenever I see stuff like this. You've done a fine job of making the ones you've posted recently come to life! Well, since you asked... you can view a few such ancient artifacts from Grenadier and Ral Partha, as well as some (relatively) newer 1980's-era Citadel/GW minis in my index post, linked in my sig below among the ones marked "The next 4 minis are all in the same post". I've been trying to identify a few of them for some time, so if anyone else who gets a kick out of these old sculpts happens to check the link and recognizes any, please post there with whatever you can tell me about what company and/or sculptor made them and when they were sold! I think I have tracked down most of them by now, but a few still remain unidentified to some extent. I have a whole bunch more old 'Partha, Grenadier, etc., minis that have been lying around since my younger days too - some never painted, and some painted then stripped a few years ago; just haven't found time to paint/repaint them yet. Too many awesome Reaper minis unpainted on my workbench, y'see! One day, though, I do plan on making time for them... Kang
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