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Everything posted by Kang

  1. It's really easy to over thin paints on a wet pallet. It's one of the problems I occasionally have, and I'd guess that's why you're having it. Some paints are more prone to chalkiness when overthinned, in my experience. /ali Note, I've found that's especially true if you're using craft paints; they break down more easily, ie. with less thinning than it takes to make paints made specifically for miniatures go chalky. Something about the coarser and less dense pigments in the craft paints, or so I've read. I've dabbled a little with a homemade wet palette too (kitchen sponge & parchment paper in a round Ziploc resealable container - didn't even have to go shopping, so why not?) Meh... I mean, it's definitely worth giving it a try, especially if you have all the stuff lying around your kitchen already, but I wasn't personally as blown away as I had hoped I would be. I will most likely try it again at some point if I have to paint a large area that seems to call for more careful blending and I am concerned about the paint drying up before I can get it all done. It was nice to have time to take a break without my working paint mix drying up on me... But for the most part, until someone invents the welled wet palette, I imagine I'll stick with my trusty ceramic welled "palette", which is a dollar store escargot dish, like VV'S. - Got sick of having trouble scraping old paint out of my plastic one, then even sicker when I saw what they charge for a decent ceramic one at the art store... At just $1, the cheapo escargot dish wins, hands down. I even bought a couple extras so I won't ever have to stop painting to clean one out to make room for another colour. Kang
  2. It's hard to tell if a "think" layer is a thin layer with a superfluous 'k' or a thick layer with an 'n' instead of a 'c'... I only nitpick (this time) since the 2 possible meanings are exact opposites, which will greatly affect what sort of advice would be appropriate. Can you clarify this? To cover both bases, basically, if it was too thin, it might be fine as-is - I've read you don't have to get the primer fully opaque for it to do its job. Personally, I use a spray and always seem to accidentally use more than I need... or so I believe. You could always add another/more thin layer(s) if you're in doubt. If it was too thick, try adding more water next time... Or strip this one and try again if it's so thick you've lost details. Anyhow, assuming you're not an airbrusher, you basically just paint it on the bare metal with a brush like you would any other sort of paint, after removing any mold lines and/or flash metal. Not a bad idea to wash the mini first either - an old toothbrush and some dish detergent seem to work well for me. If you notice more mold lines after priming (this happens a lot), just remove them with a needle file (or whatever you use) and touch up the damaged primer coat with more brush-on. Hope that helps, Kang
  3. You have lines pointing to arrows - I'm afraid that wasn't clear to me what you are doing with your brush. Can you please clarify? The lines serve to link the start/stop text to the appropriate arrows. The point of the arrow shows where the brush tip starts or stops. Aha! I think I understand - those are not arrows at all; they're pictures of paint brushes! I can't speak for Madog Barfog, but the reason the illustrations were confusing me was because I was seeing the brushes as arrows, imagining brush strokes that went from the back end of the brush handle to the tip of the hairs, wondering why there were always 2 arrows shown and how these brushstrokes could possibly represent the technique described, etc. Makes much more sense now. The brush strokes go from the tip of one "arrow head" to the tip of the other. Not along the length of the arrows. Which aren't arrows. Whew! Kang
  4. Red X's for me too; when I tried copy/pasting the URL for one of your photos into my browser (to see if it was just another workplace-related "Forbidden By Ratings Check" issue), I got some sort of a "Please log into MSN community" screen popping up. Since then, I've been getting very annoying persistent things popping up every 2 seconds asking me to apply for a MSN passport, or to enter my passport. Ugh. I am hoping it's an "OP needs to find someplace better to store his/her photos" thing and not some sort of virus or what have you. Since there is an "MSN" in the URL, this seems likely. I hope it stops when I leave this thread. Too bad; I'm a bit of a fan of the Reaper Bugbears... Kang edit - I see this has been pointed out already in your "other bugbear warrior" thread. But nobody else has mentioned getting this pop up message 8 times just in the time it takes to scroll down to the edit button, so maybe I'm just luckier than most :o) Oh, there's number 9. Maybe I can get to the "submit" button before the next one arrives...
  5. Why deal with repainting? WOTC released a boxed set of metal unpainted figures with the release of 3rd edition. I still have my primed unpainted Lidda in the box. This was before WOTC decided for everyone that gamers really hated painting and much preferred cheap plastic figures. Are those part of the Chainmail series or something separate? You have sparked my interest! :) I never saw the boxed set, but I know for a fact that individual blistered D&D3e iconics pewter minis were available for a while - I used the pewter Krusk mini for my 1st 3e PC, a half-orc barbarian named Kang (of course) for a few years. He's now 13th level and a 3.5 character, but the mini's foot broke off years ago and besides, my character now wields a +2 greatsword instead of his old +1 greataxe of mighty cleaving, so the Krusk sculpt's greataxe no longer fits the bill anyhow, so he's no longer in use. Wish I could remember the name of the line he was from - not sure if it was chainmail or just D&D or what - sorry. Maybe you can figure it out with some clever ebay searches? I wasn't able to, but clever searches might work. Kang
  6. or easier is a thigh-high nylon or a pair of pantyhose. that can just slip over the hose attachment, its long enough to hold in place on the hose with 1 hand, and will pick up beads/minis/other little things very easily. Just dont turn off the vacuum off until the hose is over a plate or bowl, otherwise you just have to do it again. glad you found it Bob is your honey aware of your nefarious use of her nylons?! I wondered about that myself, saw bob's "goddess of..." label; checked the profile and (gasp) he's a she. So they're probably her own, though if her honey wears pantyhose, who are we to judge? Pantyhose is pretty much what I meant when I said "something similar that lets air pass through easily but will catch small objects", but I didn't want to give anyone the impression they formed any part of my own super-manly wardrobe. Manly like an RPG gamer/aquarium and modelling hobbyist, that is... Kang
  7. You mean you can change those bags?!? Kang
  8. If you don't have access to a 2-year old child who you can turn loose in your painting area (they notice everything and always grab stuff like this), and taking a short break before coming back to have another look didn't work, and getting a friend or spouse or what have you to lay a second pair of eyes on the area (which often yields results within seconds for some reason) fails you too, then take your vacuum cleaner and a net for an aquarium (or something similar that lets air pass through easily but will catch small objects). Vacuum the area where you think your bit landed, holding the fish net between the vacuum and the carpet to catch whatever comes up before it winds up going through the vacuum cleaner hose and into the bag. Hopefully your lost head will turn up in the net, relatively lint-free. Trust me, you'd rather spend hours on your hands & knees searching through shag than sift through a dirty vacuum cleaner bag, so the fish net is a must if you use a vacuum cleaner to find it. Just make sure there are no holes in the net before you start... And needless to say, don't use a power head with rotating brushes on your vacuum. Or any attachments that are wider than your net... Good luck! Kang
  9. Ummm. You do realize how this sounds, right? LOL, Oh hells, who am I to talk - I just watched No Country for Old Men and 300 over the weekend with my not-quite-2-year-old son in the room, so what do I know about child-appropriate anyhow? Good luck with those teen years! PS. Nice mini, BTW. Kang
  10. Looks good! I like the face on this sculpt, and the painting is very nice as well. I agree about the static grass coming out really well too - what's your secret for not having half of it laying down on its side like mine seems to always do no matter how careful I am? Kang
  11. Thaks for the link/info & hope you enjoy the slump. At any rate, I know that I, for one, am looking forward to some well-deserved slumping. Kang
  12. Agreed! Joe's doing these new tests goes above and beyond. You don't often see that kind of support on other forums. This Testors Model Master's Non-Buffing Metallizer Sealer (MMNBMS?) sounds like something that would definitely be worth trying out. Actually, I've gotten several great suggestions from this thread so far, and more ideas for combining them keep popping to mind. I definitely see some experimentation in my nearish future... Joe, can you tell us a bit more about this stuff? ie. Does it actually have metal flake in it? Do you need an airbrush to use it? - A brief web search on the product name yielded confusion as to whether people were talking about this sealer or the actual MMNBM paint... Need any special goo to clean up after? Anything else I/we should know before running out to buy some? Hopefully it'll be easy to find and not too pricey... Thanks again everyone, and do keep those great ideas coming! I think this is one of, if not the, first of my threads to earn the red "hot topic" icon, so hopefully that means I'm not the only one who's finding it useful... Kang
  13. If you're at all concerned about your GW spray, I would take the plastic from a blister pack or an expendable test mini or something and try some out on that first before using it on a finished miniature. At least then you'll know what to expect. To make a really good test, you could prime then paint your test surface before spraying, but then you're looking at waiting longer to get your results, and by then the humidity etc. may have changed... For the record, I also like using a spray gloss (though I haven't tried enough different types to be fussy about the brand for this), then a light coat or 2 of Testors Dullcote, or else some other matte spray you're comfortable with. Note, I did have trouble with Dullcote the first time I used it - kept coming out just as glossy as my gloss coat, though I was eventually able to get rid of most of the unwanted shine (but not quite all). Said troubles & the various brands of sprays & brush-ons I tried are documented in this WiP thread and this Painting Tips & Advice thread, if you're interested. Kang
  14. Well, if it's good enough for Anne... Since I have a few more follow-up questions about this, I've just begun a new thread to discuss sealing metallics/demimetallics, in hopes of letting people here get back to the original topic of discussing how to paint them in the first place. The new thread quotes Anne's reply & a few other posts above and includes my follow-up questions, plus a general plea for ideas and suggestions for sealing metallics without losing either the shine of the highlights or the duller finish of the shade tones. Thanks, Kang
  15. After reading a very interesting thread on painting metallics, I began to wonder about ways to protect such paint jobs without ruining the metallic effects by either dullcoting the shiny highlights or gloss coating the flatter shade tones. You can check the link above to see the whole discussion if you like, but to sum up, Ollikickflip described a way to paint metallics really nicely, but warned not to use Dullcote on it because it would ruin the effect. Using brush-on gloss sealer instead for the metallic areas was discussed, but it seems to me that instead of dulling out the highlights that are meant to be shiny, you'd just end up shining up the shaded areas that are supposed to be more flat. Maybe that's better, but it doesn't sound ideal. I'm wondering if anyone has a method that gives the best of both worlds, be it compromising by use of a 'satin' finish (ie. somewhere between matte and glossy), perhaps using layering/glazes to do a transition from matte to glossy (if that would even work), or what have you. Maybe I'm overthinking things, but does anyone have any tricks for dealing with this? Ideas that have been tried and proven to actually work are obviously preferred, but feel free to post new and untested ideas too; just let us know that's what they are and maybe someone else will have already tried them and can chime in to let us know whether they would work. Worse comes to worse, maybe I can try some of the untested suggestions then come back to report on their success or failure. A little more background: How would you recommend protecting the paint job then, or is this technique really only for pieces that will live out their lives safely tucked away in a display case? KatieG mentioned in another thread I read just this morning that you can Dullcote then go back over the metals with brush-on gloss to avoid killing the shiny metal look. Think that would work with your system? Maybe just re-gloss the highlights & leave the color-glazed shades matte? Aargh, visions of trying to accomplish a smooth transition from matte to gloss sealers like they were colors! (Whew! These nested quotes can get a bit tricky!)So you wouldn't recommend brushing gloss over Dullcoted metallics then, or am I putting words in your mouth? And would glossing the whole metal area take away from the effect of the shaded parts that were intentionally dulled down with the nonmetallic glazes? Thanks, Kang
  16. How would you recommend protecting the paint job then, or is this technique really only for pieces that will live out their lives safely tucked away in a display case? KatieG mentioned in another thread I read just this morning that you can Dullcote then go back over the metals with brush-on gloss to avoid killing the shiny metal look. Think that would work with your system? Maybe just re-gloss the highlights & leave the color-glazed shades matte? Aargh, visions of trying to accomplish a smooth transition from matte to gloss sealers like they were colors! Very much looking forward to reading the pic-laden version you hinted at. Something like your Mangu WiP that yani mentioned, only in step-by-step form, could potentially be immensely useful to a lot of painters out there. Myself among them, certainly... Kang
  17. In terms of comments/questions about these guys in particular, they look quite nice to me, but I am wondering about the vulture head on the hooked hulk. Your site mentions it came with the bug head, which is the head I've seen on this guy before - he's basically a D&D umber hulk lookalike normally, right? Just like the way Reaper's phase cat is like a displacer beast and the bathalians are uncannily reminiscent of mind flayers... Charnel Grub = carrion crawler, etc., etc., yadda yadda yadda. That's one thing I love about reaper minis, being a longtime D&D gamer and mini painter and all. But I wasn't sure if you were trying to imply the vulture head also came with it as an alternative, or if you got it from another mini? Makes me wonder about the legs too. In other words, is this a conversion, or is it an alternative sculpt? If the former, it turned out very well; you can't tell that he didn't come this way. Either way, he sure is one strange looking beast, but I definitely don't mean that in a bad way and I do think the paint job is quite nice. As for your other question - will posting images directly on the forums make me more likely to reply? Yes, slightly, but in your case that's only because it's easy to get distracted by your site and forget to come back here and post. When some other members link their photos, I get a "forbidden by ratings check" warning pop up when I try to access them from here in the office, so those ones I unfortunately never even see at all, since by the time I get home from my programming job, the last thing on my mind is logging onto my dial-up (yeah, you heard that right) internet account to sit in front of the computer for a few more hours. So in your case, links to your site won't stop me from seeing your work (...yet... - the more often I check, presumably the better the odds are that they'll notice me doing it and ban your site like all those others). On the other hand, your karoak link on this thread just brings up another forum page with no pictures, just more links. So I had to click another link there to get to the pictures I had assumed the first click here would bring up. That's slightly frustrating and would most likely cause at least some potential commentors to give up on you then and there. I have actually been checking your site every few days for several weeks now, mostly hoping to see more work done on the gold-armored dwarf in your demi-metallics article (hint, hint). However that guy turns out in the end will definitely have some effect on whether I end up trying your demi-metallics technique (base with non-metallics then glaze with metallics), or the opposite way (base with metallics then glaze with non-metallics) on my next metal-armored mini. Kang
  18. Heh, this is probably the first blond bugbear I've seen. Looks really cool; I'd say he came out quite nicely & the photo looks fine to me as well. How about a shot of the back? I'd also be interested in seeing a photograph of the size comparison to other Reaper bugbears you mentioned, if photos are available and you're not too worried about it dragging your thread off-topic, as I have several of those other older bb's on my desk as well and am considering buying one of this guy to help fill out the set. Kang
  19. Wow, these guys are looking very nice for your first few attempts. Why no front shot of the orc with the double-headed axe, though? Anyhow, I can't see any sloppy mistakes, and it looks like your paint is going on nice and smooth - so thinning and brush control, 2 of the biggest challenges for new painters, would seem to be well in hand. The light-to-dark blue transition on the crusader's... skirt thingie... looks quite nice too. If you're not ready to call the dwarf's helmet horns done yet, a google image search on "cow horns" yields images of horns in a surprising array of colors and shapes for your reference, but in general I noticed that almost all of them darken toward the tips, and many toward the base as well. I painted a minotaur's horns this way (ie. darker at both ends with a sort of off-white or ivory color in the middle) once and was quite happy with the results, though they were sculpted quite a bit differently from this guy's horns. Click the link in my sig then hunt around a bit if you are interested in seeing a pic of that - he's in the same thread as my skeletal dragon, whose horns I did not give this treatment for some reason. Doing this would also let you see some of my own work, which will give you a better idea of whether you should trust my mini-painting advice or not. I see you decided to scrap the silver on the dwarf's shield details in favor of using nonmetallic colors. What made you change your mind, if I may ask? I also have to ask what paints you are using for your metallics? Your golds and silvers are really nice and shiny, oh, and the coppery dagger and sword hilts too... and I've been thinking about picking up some new metallic paints for some time now. Normally I'd default to Reaper paints, but my FLGS has been out of MSP metallics (other than weird stuff like purple) for months and no sign of getting any more... I am not that big on online shopping, and I don't want to shell out for readily-available GW unless I have to, or someone convinces me they're the best choice, but I've had about enough of my grainy craft brand metallics and am determined to upgrade soon, one way or another. Kang
  20. Looks like you took the highlights on the pecs up a notch higher than anything else. The shoulders and the top of the head, being examples of areas more directly exposed to the sun, should have been taken up higher than the pecs, but weren't, hence the glowing chest look. You could either hit these upper areas a little harder with the highest highlights, or else glaze the chest back down a notch with a very thin mix of your base skintone. Even a bit of both wouldn't hurt, I suppose. That should neutralize those chest-beams somewhat, making him look a little more natural. To me, the eye-liner look you mentioned works OK with this sculpt. Aside from that one minor issue, I think this guy turned out quite nicely. Especially if you are new to painting, which your use of a Learn To Paint kit might be assumed to imply... If this were one of mine, I'd be quite pleased with myself. Especially with the smoothness of the transitions from shadow to base to highlight skintones. The placement of the highlights on the hair seem right; if you take the middle parts of the highest highlights just a little higher, it might help make his hair get that gleaming shampoo-commercial shine, which wouldn't be a bad thing. But if you're worried about messing up the work you've already done in such an attempt, you're certainly fine to call the hair done as-is. The pix are a tad dark though, which makes it a little difficult to see any highlighting and/or shading of the pants and the staff as has been mentioned. So far, I'd say the good things about the way you painted this guy definitely outweigh the things that could have been done a little better. Looking forward to seeing more of your work! Kang
  21. Kang


    There're almost always going to be a few nooks and crannies that don't get covered as well by the spray as the rest of the mini - even if you do like many of us and try to spray from as many angles as possible without glopping it on overly thick. Luckily, these are generally well-protected areas surrounded by the very metal protrusions that kept the spray from getting in there in the first place, so it'll be pretty hard to get in there to rub the paint off (even intentionally), if you don't get total primer coverage. But for the stickler, these areas are also where touching up your primer coat with a little brush-on primer comes into play... So, there's a reason to keep both kinds of primer among your paint gear. Kang R.I.P., E.G.G.
  22. Wow, this is some really cool stuff you've made! OK, some of these titles are probably a bit long to fit on your books, and it does look like you're only using strange arcane symbols on your covers so far, but if you're worried about keeping them random, why not throw in a few actual titles that your shoppe's customers might find familiar? This might give you some ideas (though not all will necessarily be good ideas). I especially recommend your magic shoppe always keep a copy of Tobin's Spirit Guide in stock - that thing came in handy in, like, almost every single episode of the Real Ghostbusters! Kang R.I.P., E.G.G.
  23. Hey Thes, Don't worry about my dial-up connection - I do most of my checking of the forums etc., from the high-speed comfort of my office anyhow. I think I mentioned how working on the mainframe gives me enough downtime while I wait for my jobs to run that I can get away with this and not have my productivity suffer... If it were really a big deal, I'd get the rural high-speed option I've been getting flyers in the mail for lately (it's some kind of 2-way dish that goes on the roof, I think - we're too far from the phone company CO to get DSL and there's no cable running through our area so...). As it stands, by the time I get home from work most days, the last thing on my mind is getting back on the computer. Too busy at home, with a 22-month old son & 6 1/2 months-pregnant wife to wrangle/fend off/placate... The time I actually have to myself when I could be checking stuff online is a mercilessly brief window that begins when my son falls asleep and ends when I stagger off to bed after a couple hours of TV/painting/reading/smoking in my wood shed. I do still intend to check out that Higher Ground Games site Rastl mentioned though, even if it does mean a little slow surfing on my own time... Thanks for the pix & all the suggestions, everyone! Over this past weekend, I got together with the DM of the campaign with the castle and we did some thinking and drawing and playing with blocks and tiles, and came up with a workable (IMO) solution. I think we are going to end up stretching the castle by a few inches on all sides (exact amount depending on how many interior walls get crossed by an imaginary line drawn from one side to the other), then begin construction of the tightest, most cramped areas and smallest rooms toward the center of the castle first, making sure nothing we build causes any room in our castle to have to give up floor space to accommodate the walls. This will mean that other rooms may possibly end up getting a little bit bigger than they were designed to be, but we'd rather live with a bit of extra room in the big rooms than losing space in the smaller rooms. Extra empty space is one thing, but running out of room for minis is quite another! Hopefully that will work out OK even though we will end up having to compromise and do a little tweaking of the published map in the end. If we ever do actually start building, I'll be sure to post some pictures of our work for those who are interested. Thanks again everyone! Kang R.I.P., E.G.G.
  24. Honestly, I've used several different brands of primers in several colors over the years, and I've never really had a problem with any of them. I am currently working my way through my first can of the infamous white Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (due to having heard of its superiority so many times, then finally finding a (model railroading hobby) store that carries it), but that is the first time I've ever sprung for one of the expensive hobby brands - any kind of spray primer you find in the paint aisle will definitely work better than no primer. You'd pretty much have to have tried numerous different kinds over the years to be able to notice much difference, IMO. Of course, there are always those who swear by one brand or another, just as there are always those who'll swear you can just use paint instead. There probably are things to be said for one brand being better than others for priming minis, but I've tried many and still have trouble telling any difference (even with the Tamiya). Of course, I don't exactly crank out hundreds of minis a year like some people... More like a half-dozen a year or so, and that's on a good year. So that's probably why. But I will say that I am utterly convinced that using paint as primer is just asking for all your work to gradualy chip and wear away over the years... if you don't keep them in a display case all the time. Paint on unprimed minis can even start rubbing/chipping off before you finish painting, so even that display case isn't a totally safe bet. Your choice as to whether you'll use white, black, or grey primer is almost certainly going to have a much bigger impact on your results and the painting style you develop than the brand you chose. One thing though: don't pick one that says "gap-filling" or anything else that sounds like it will clog up the details on your minis, turning that chainmail skirt into a cloth tabard. Go figure. Such primers do exist and you should take care not to accidentally pick up one of those. Aside from that, until you discover the brand you want to keep using forever, whatever spray primer they have in the paint aisle at Canadian Tire... er, I'm probably the only Canuck around here right now, eh?... I mean at Home Depot or Wal-Mart or wherever... should be fine to work with. Kang R.I.P., E.G.G.
  25. Is that the orage/yellow parts of his face? I wondered if those were eyes or warpaint of some kind. I think the eyes might be higher up on the face than where you painted the orange/yellow spots. Above the nose, right about level with the bottom edge of the helmet. Possibly not meant to be easily visible. But I'm just guessing. Where you have the eyes painted now (if that's what those spots are - if it isn't, just ignore me altogether, BTW) was the one part of this mini that made me stop and say, "That's funny," when I noticed they are below his nose. I'm not suggesting I'm familiar with this mini or that I can tell from the photos where the eyes are sculpted; just that I would have expected to find them higher up on the face than the nostrils is all. Overall though, I have to say I like him, whether those be eyes or dabs of warpaint. Kang
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