Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kang

  1. Here is my version of Reaper's Skeletal Dragon (#2705). I painted him as (the remains of) a green dragon, and tried not to take the highlights too far in the hopes of having him look more like his bones have been trapped in the basement of a collapsed wizard's tower for a few millennia, as that is where he turned up in my D&D campaign. Not sure how well it'll show up here, but I tried to make it look like his eyes giving off an evil reddish glow. The base is a wooden disk I got at Michael's, built up with Woodland Scenics model railroad terrain materials. The whole thing was painted wit
  2. Still having the inner debate about whether to gloss his skin or not; I'll probably use some on the fungous pools and the green crystal on his staff (ie. minor details) since a shiny look would work there, but I'm thinking about maybe trying to paint in some brighter reflections on his head/tentacles (the mini's main feature, where gloss might feel a bit like "cheating"), to simulate sliminess there rather than use the gloss. But I fear ruining the whole mini in the attempt... Still on the fence at this point, but I would kind of like to have this guy be 'officially' done sooner rather than
  3. Wow, thanks for the compliments and suggestions. I had a bit more luck over the weekend, and I'm now working from a theory that my Dullcote wnt glossy because I had sprayed it on top of a layer of DecoArt acrylic gloss (as opposed to some other brand). I gave it a layer of Krylon Matte which helped a lot, then I gave it a bit more Dullcote on top of that and it is looking much better now. More details on this theory and the limited experiments I did can be found on my Tips & Advice thread, linked in my OP. Here are a few more pictures I took after finally managing to kill most of th
  4. That is where I finally found the stuff, yes. Your profile says 'location unknown' but I take it you're from somewhere around here? I know the sticker on the top of the cap and the label on the can itself say "no. 1260", but from what you say that should be expected if the can were mislabeled. I'll take a look on the bottom tonight to see if the number there matches. Thanks! When it gets dry in my house, as it tends to do in the winter (which, if the snow on the ground is any indication, seems to be beginning here), my shins get itchy and I end up scratching half the skin off them. Since
  5. Wouldn't that be just my luck, to have a can so badly mislabeled as to have the exact opposite effect of what is should... And here I am, adding more and more of the stuff! I am hoping that a thin layer of gloss then another thin layer of Dullcote, as described above, will do the trick; but if it doesn't, I may just try to find another can. Took me several years to track this one down though, so I am not too hopeful of finding another local store that carries it. I think it might even have been the only can the store where I found it had; maybe they'll have ordered more. If it doesn't
  6. Thanks, primeval! Ideally, someday I'll be able to paint something like this so the head still looks just as glossy, but all the reflections would be painted on. Once the shine is gone from this piece, his head's highlights obviously won't be quite as bright as these reflections are now, but it'll still be the closest I've come to creating that sort of effect so far. Once I do get my Dullcote working though, I am considering going over the slime on the floor with a little brush-on gloss. I'm not yet ready to attempt painting an artificial glossy shine on stuff that was intended to be
  7. Thanks for the tip, cbp. I'm 100% certain that is not the problem I've experienced though - I shook that thing like nobody's business until I thought my arm was going to fall off, swiched arms, repeated the process, then kept going, timing myself for another 2 full minutes. Anyhow, I have posted a WIP thread if anyone's interested in seeing a few pix of the mini in question. Thanks, Kang
  8. Edit - this guy is done now. Photos of the finished product can be seen in the Show Off section. Here is my first and latest WIP. Note: it's only my first WIP here; been doing this for years, though it's hard to find much time to paint these days. I maybe complete 3 minis a year in a good year, to give you an idea. Another note: if you like spending lots of time on this hobby, don't have kids or get an HDTV or move someplace where you have to drive for an hour to get to your job from... It's my first mini painted with Reaper paints though. Mostly RMS, anyhow - the blue in the robe
  9. I just read a post within the past couple of days where someone mentioned the "standard" sizes aren't standard across different companies - one company's 0 is the same as another's 1, or what have you. It would seem that this is true. When you're using a slightly larger brush than you're used to, assuming it has a good point on it, the trick (well, one of them) is to get used to how much paint you need in the brush to strike that fine balance bewteen having to re-dip it too often, and accidentally flooding your mini with the excess. It does take some practice - only just starting to g
  10. I have seen that advice given on several different hobby forums. Aha! Another layer of gloss in between the old shiny Dullcote layer and the new matte one, eh? I'll give that a shot. Thanks, Kang
  11. Maybe, but another thing to consider might be that your largest brush is a 4/0 (AKA 0000). That's pretty small for basecoating. Many painters, from what I've read, use a #2 or #1 (or even a #0) for basecoats to avoid having the tiny amount of paint a multiple-0 brush holds from starting to dry out before it ever gets on the mini. Sometimes this can result in a more patchy-looking basecoat than might otherwise be achieved. This may not be the source of your particular problem, but it is another factor to keep in mind. The brushes you've mentioned should be great for tiny details, assuming
  12. Well, I tried Anne's suggestion when I got home from work yesterday, and went back at it with just a couple of quick passes; enough to barely cover it. This morning: still glossy as ever. If my problem is indeed that I put on too much to begin with, and I am fairly sure that is at least part of it, does that mean it's too late and that any more layers of Dullcote - no matter how thin - will only make things worse? I was assuming that if I put on another properly thin layer once the previous one dried, it would kill the shine. But that doesn't appear to have happened. I still don't
  13. Ah. Well, problem diagnosed, then. I won't say how many passes I was giving it... Let's just say the good news is that there's no way my paint job is gonna get chipped anytime soon, and leave it at that! OK, so I might not be completely out of the woods yet. Hopefully I've already (over)used enough of the can to avoid this problem. I'll give it one more long shake and quick dusting tonight when I get home, and report back on my results tomorrow. Been using my basement for spraying since it's too cold out in the woodshed, and right now the floor down there is bone-dry (which certainly
  14. As the title says, pretty much. I've looked in on a few threads where this issue came up; even posted in a couple. But I'm not trying to threadjack those folks, so here's a separate thread for the subject. Looking for possible reasons why Dullcote might end up drying glossy. Here are a few possible reasons I've seen posted so far: - Bad/old batch of Dullcote; buy a new can - Need to shake it up more; like, for 2 at least full minutes - Could be due to the brand of paint underneath - Give up, use some watered-down RMS Matte sealer to kill the shine - Using too much per coat I'
  15. I just tried my hand at using Testors Dullcote for the first time, and mine came out glossy too. I'm quite disappointed, after years of hunting for this brand. Finally found it at Hobby House, locally (aside from Michael's, probably the best source of minis gear within driving distance). Maybe I got a really old can? If so, I guess I'm out of luck, as I haven't been able to find it anywhere else, and it was well enough hidden in the bowels of the store where I bought it that I doubt it's a big enough seller there to ensure they'll have new cans anytime soon. - I did shake it well, thou
  16. Hey! I've been working on D'Khul Balthalian too, for a while now. Haven't been tallying up the total hours I've spent or anything (not a bad idea though), but it's been going on a month or 2, whenever I get a chance to paint - which is maybe a couple hours per week on a good week. Not too many photos of this guy painted on the net, I've noticed, though there are a few out there - sometimes I find other people's paint jobs help me identify details I'm not 100% clear on what they are supposed to be. Your pic of his feet is the best one you posted of D'Khul; the others are a little blurry o
  17. Here is the monstrous humanoid who destroyed my camera last night... Which explains why this pic isn't of him in his Hallowe'en costume...
  18. Your photos are incredible! How can they be both so huge and so clear? Seriously, what's your secret? My son pretty much destroyed my camera last night, sadly... He's only 17 months old though, so of course I forgive the little guy. Heck, I even forgive my wife, out of whose careless hand he swatted it as she attempted to photograph him in his Hallowe'en pirate costume... I still have my older one* lying around, so maybe there's still hope for me. Kang *refers to another camera, not another wife... wasn't that big-o'me?
  19. I don't get it - why the loonies*? If it's distilled water, there shouldn't be any hardness, right? So are the loonies just there to remind you not to drink it or something? Or am I wrong about the distillation process leaving behind minerals that cause hardness? Anyhow, sorry to go off-topic - all I can really say about your NMM is that it's better than I've been able to achieve. edit -> D'Oh! I swear, I saw an 'i' there the first time. But yeah, if my eyes worked properly I'd have fully understood why one might spend some cash "on" distillled water. It was the "drop" that t
  20. Saw the word "Catan" on Reaper boards and cried out a joyful, "Gasp!" Yes, I actually yelled the word, "Gasp," rather than simply gasping joyfully. The better to freak out my co-workers... But I don't suppose there's much chance the Asylum will be picking itself up and moving to Ottawa (waaaay up here in Ontario, Canada) anytime before October 20, eh? Oh well. Loves me some Catannibalism, but not enough to travel out of town (much less out of country) to play. Small world! Next thing, you'll be telling me you guys play Talisman too... Maybe I can get my D&D group
  21. Well, I certainly hold mine in high regard... Anyhow, thanks again for all the suggestions, folks. I think I have all my picks lined up now. Still got a buck and change in store credit, but I imagine that and more will get eaten up by shipping costs. Kang
  22. You can also get the Liquitex versions of flow improver and drying retarder from an arts and crafts store (Michael's and Hobby Lobby in the US). Michael's and Hobby Lobby also have 40% off coupons with considerable regularity. Ron Thanks. FYI, I'm all set for additives; just don't have any of Reaper's is all. Got everything else from craft paint brands to Future to Liquitex Slo-Dri, etc. The only other additive I'm really at all interested in trying out at this point is Winsor & Newton's Flow Improver - seems to come highly recommended, but in my travels I've scoured various Mic
  23. Thanks for all the suggestions and links so far! Gives me some good ideas for where to start - or rather continue, given that I actually have a couple more bottles than I realized at first... Kang
  24. Aha! I knew I'd seen a list of suggested "starter" paints somewhere... Spent at least 1/2 hour scouring the boards for it; figures it was in that CW. D'Oh! Thanks for the link & quote, Ghaz. This helps, though I'm still eager to hear what others would choose as well. So on to clarifying my OP for Qwyksilver, Vutpakdi, and anyone else who might care to chime in... As for what I normally paint, there's really no set type of creature; I'm not building an army or anything - I buy minis that just look cool to me, sometimes for use as my PC's/BBEG's in the D&D campaigns I play/DM.
  25. Hey there folks, If you found yourself with roughly $40 in store credit over at Paizo's website and wanted to spend it on RMS colors and/or triads, which ones would you pick, assuming you have very few bottles of Reaper paints to start with? Thanks, Kang
  • Create New...