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Kang

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Everything posted by Kang

  1. Here is my version of Reaper's Skeletal Dragon (#2705). I painted him as (the remains of) a green dragon, and tried not to take the highlights too far in the hopes of having him look more like his bones have been trapped in the basement of a collapsed wizard's tower for a few millennia, as that is where he turned up in my D&D campaign. Not sure how well it'll show up here, but I tried to make it look like his eyes giving off an evil reddish glow. The base is a wooden disk I got at Michael's, built up with Woodland Scenics model railroad terrain materials. The whole thing was painted with craft paints, and at the risk of making him seem a little too new and shiny, I used a bit of brush-on gloss for the horns and claws. This one I painted as a zombie. I'm just posting him here for fun; this guy's best feature is the minor conversion I did on him. It sure ain't the paint job, anyhow... I have no idea if it was originally intended to be undead, as it is a relic of the early 1980's that I dug out of my Box of Old Lead. No idea of the manufacturer either. (EDIT: Tracked down some more info about this guy. He was indeed intended to be a zombie, and he is from the Grenadier #5002 D&D Monster set - which I believe was purchased in the early-ish 1980's) I do know that his raised soft lead hand had gotten mashed into an unrecognizeable state during the decades he spent buried under other fogotten minis; he wasn't always holding his own eyeball. In fact, he had 2 eyes in his head when I began work on him. His fingers were so mashed that I decided to carve the eyeball shape right into the lead blob that was their remains. Gouging out his eye was easy enough. I painted this mini at least 5 years ago, before I had begun building up a kit of tools and basing materials; the base is a washer with dirt from my yard glued to it with epoxy (IIRC). I think the grave marker was made of a matchstick or something. I think this guy is mostly in craft paint too, though the skin is GW paint. This is an old GW ogre from the 80's (EDIT: Tracked down some more info about this guy. He was sculpted by Jes Goodwyn for Citadel minis and released in 1985. Apparently this guy is a bit of a collector's item - who knew? Not so surprised though; I still love this sculpt), back when their minis had a bit of character to them. I know, it's all too fashionable to bash GW these days, but I distinctly remember a point when I loved their Citadel minis but suddenly stopped finding any that were suitable for RPG characters/monsters because all that my local stores had from them were minis who were meant to be part of an army unit or whatever - I don't know the GW game terms. No more dynamic poses or strange gear on them, just standard issue gear, y'know? To me it was sad, since I'm a D&D player and could care less about Warhammer. Anyhow, I had painted this guy years ago, very badly, with Testors enamels of all things, as that was the only kind of paint for models I knew about - this was back before the wonderful web we all know and love now, remember. Yecch. Maybe it's possible to paint minis well with the stuff, but what a mess to clean up and thin! Well, when I got back into D&D and minis after about a 10 year hiatus, I thought this guy was too cool to live in that paintjob, so into the Pine-Sol he went. This time I painted him in GW and craft paints and am still fairly happy with what came out. I think I repainted this one in 2002 or thereabouts. Tha base is a GW large base with a square of this stuff I found at Canadian Tire (seen it in Wal-Mart since) in the Christmas decorations aisle one year. It's basically a roll of rubbery plastic cobblestone road for making those little Christmas villages people have. And a Reaper skull, plus a couple of pebbles. This necromancer is still being sold, or was a couple years ago when I saw one at my FLGS, though nowadays it is sold by Iron Wind. I've had this guy since the 80's though, which I believe would make this one a Ral Partha. For some reason I never bothered to do any highlighting on the base after I glued railroad sand on it and gave it a coat of plain green. But other than the base I'm fairly happy with him. This was painted 4-5 years back too, and if you look closely you might see a few chips in his paint job. Guess my sealer could have been a little thicker, or I could have been more careful with him... The sculpted details on this guy's face are really good, especially for a mini that came out so long ago - compared to, say the zombie I posted above. This guy's not quite as old as that - more like late 80's. Mostly GW paints, here, though some craft paints used as well. Here is a GW minotaur who was one of the first minis I painted when I started getting back into gaming, after I had discovered and picked up some Woodland Scenics stuff for basing. I'm not thrilled with the path on the base, and the skintones have some overly abrupt transitions on them. Apparently I was really into drybrushing when I painted this guy. I used a bit of gloss for his horns and mouth parts. I also used some unthinned brush-on gloss to give the blood on his axe that clotted look - probably this piece's best feature. This is an ent, or treeant, or tree-man, or something like that. He's another GW relic from the 80's. Possibly the early 90's, but IIRC a little older than that. anyhow, I do remember buying this one because he looked so cool painted up in a mini-diorama on the box he came in (which was a new thing back then, at least to me). A simple paint job really; most of the work was putting the Woodland Scenics foam foliage for the leaves on the branches, and grinding up more of the same to make his "beard and arm hair" moss, as well as the base, which is too small but fairly lush and thick looking - though that doesn't come out as well in any of these shots as it does IRL. I tried to differentiate the leave from the moss by lightly drybrushing some yello onthe leaves and some pale green on the moss. <edit - 6 years after posting this, I have an ID on this mini! Found an ebay listing naming him as "C31 ENT FF11-2 Fiend Factory GIANT TREEMAN Scarce McDeath - Citadel Oop" - Hooray for the internet! Looks like someone was willing to pay $40AU for a bare metal one. Or maybe someone was just willing to ask that much... Hooray for the internet's ability to confuse!</edit> Here's another old piece that is actually made of lead. I believe he was sold as an efreet(i?), and that's what I've painted him up as. He's another one who got the Pine-Sol treatment early in the 2000's after suffering in my Box of Old Lead for too many years. I don't know why I put grass around his base; a desert or dungeon floor or at least burnt grass would make so much more sense. Anyhow, this paint job is almost as crude as my zombie above, though the efreet looks way cooler for some reason, IMO. This was also painted several years ago, but I can remember when I added railroad rocks for the coals on his base, I wanted the outer ones to be much darker, like they were mostly ash. That did not happen, obviously. Oh well, base and crappy drybrushing aside, if you don't look at him as close as these photos, he looks not too bad I think. (EDIT: Tracked down some more info about this guy. He's from Grenadier's AD&D line, sculpted by John Denett, and was produced sometime in the 1980-1983 range)(EDIT 2: According to treide, he is actually from Grenadier's Dragon Lords Monster Manuscript line. Not sure if that's part of the same AD&D line or what; could be some conflicting info here, or maybe he was made part of more than one set. In any case, thanks for the info, triede!) Here's a dwarf barbarian, another decades-old mini with a less old paint job. The base is white stuff on a washer - my first attempt at using any sort of 2-part putty. Not thrilled with how it turned out, but the mini itself looked pretty nice before it got all these chips in the paint. Maybe I'll go back and do a little restoration work on him someday. (EDIT: Tracked down some more info about this guy. He's actually called the dwarf "warrior", though he still looks like a barbarian to me. He's from a boxed set called "Adventure Fellowship" from Ral Partha in (IIRC) the late 80's. The set also included 9 other minis who I'm pretty sure I still have and am certain I ought to paint up some day, as the sculpts on them were the reason I picked up the set in the first place) Here's my version of Reaper's Balto Burrowell, Gnome (#2510). This is one where I have gone back to touch up some chips he received on the tabletop where he represents a friend's gnome sorcerer PC. Too bad, some of the gems looked a lot better before they got chipped and hurriedly repaired. He's still got a few chips on him, sadly. Another one to maybe repair someday I guess. Reaper 2653: Slipshadow, Thief. This guy has taken a real beating since I painted him up! Used him for a rogue PC I had until that character died from multiple enervation spells. He got caught between a necromancer and his pet zombie grey render. The rest of the party escaped and were unable to recover his body in time to get him brought back to life. I don't know what I did to this guy to get hime so chipped and covered with lint. Must've accidentally gone into the Tacklebox of Doom with its load of heavy, rough, sharp objects that we use for terrain in our D&d games - someone probably thought it was one of the plastic D&d minis we keep in there and swept him in with the rest. Too bad, I was pretty happy with this one when he was in good condition. This guy may well be beyond my abilities to repair. Reaper 2520: Troll Matron. 100% craft paints. To avoid the hassle of putting this somewhere else then linking to it here, I'll only attach photos of angles from which you can't see her naughty exposed bits. Her base has taken a little punishment, but otherwise I've somehow managed to avoid having her take the kind of damage those last couple of minis did. Which is a relief, 'cause I'd hate to see a chipped paint job on such a sexy troll! What, you don't think she's sexy?!? So, these have been pretty much all the minis I've completed this millennium. Hope you enjoyed them! I'm always open to any suggestions that might help me improve my painting. If you want to post some, keep in mind that these span the past several years. If you want to know where my skills are at now, I'm currently working on Reaper 2568: D'Khul, Bathalian. There's a WiP threat I started when my can of Dullcote started acting up on me, and a Tips & Advice thread about the same issue (pics in WiP thread, details of Dullcote issues in Tips & Advice...). That one is almost done, so by the time you read this he might well be up here somewhere in Show Off too. He'll get his own thread though; this multi-mini thread was just to get me caught up. One last thing: If anyone can help me pin down any info about the older minis I've posted here (ie. who made them, when, etc.), I'd appreciate it very much. (EDIT: I already found some as you've seen, but I'd still be interested in finding out more about a few of these minis, and if any of my research has turned up false information, please post and let me know!) Thanks for looking! Kang
  2. Still having the inner debate about whether to gloss his skin or not; I'll probably use some on the fungous pools and the green crystal on his staff (ie. minor details) since a shiny look would work there, but I'm thinking about maybe trying to paint in some brighter reflections on his head/tentacles (the mini's main feature, where gloss might feel a bit like "cheating"), to simulate sliminess there rather than use the gloss. But I fear ruining the whole mini in the attempt... Still on the fence at this point, but I would kind of like to have this guy be 'officially' done sooner rather than later - the PC's will be encountering him soon... I've used gloss before quite often, on things like tongues, teeth, horns, claws, etc., but I'm trying to push myself beyond that, to a point where I can use paint to get the same effect. Thanks for the suggestions! Kang
  3. Wow, thanks for the compliments and suggestions. I had a bit more luck over the weekend, and I'm now working from a theory that my Dullcote wnt glossy because I had sprayed it on top of a layer of DecoArt acrylic gloss (as opposed to some other brand). I gave it a layer of Krylon Matte which helped a lot, then I gave it a bit more Dullcote on top of that and it is looking much better now. More details on this theory and the limited experiments I did can be found on my Tips & Advice thread, linked in my OP. Here are a few more pictures I took after finally managing to kill most of that shine. There's still a bit of shine on the cape, but it's at a point where I can live with it now. Front view: Rear view (you can really see how many layers of sealer I used when you look at the filled-in details on his gold collar!): Close-up of his head: Close-up of skulls on base: When I get the pools of ooze & the green parts of his staff glossed back up, I may post a few pix on the Show Off page. Thanks again, Kang Edit - I'm seeing the glossy photos repeated here at the bottom. Is it just me? I did not want them there but when I go back into Edit mode there's no sign of them. Aarrgh! Edit2 - after doing the first edit, those extra pix disappeared. No doubt this will make them reappear.
  4. That is where I finally found the stuff, yes. Your profile says 'location unknown' but I take it you're from somewhere around here? I know the sticker on the top of the cap and the label on the can itself say "no. 1260", but from what you say that should be expected if the can were mislabeled. I'll take a look on the bottom tonight to see if the number there matches. Thanks! When it gets dry in my house, as it tends to do in the winter (which, if the snow on the ground is any indication, seems to be beginning here), my shins get itchy and I end up scratching half the skin off them. Since I have raw, skinless shins right now, I consider the humidity to be acceptably low. Been spraying in my basement, in which the floor gets damp in any kind of humid weather - it's also dry, and the air down there is only a little bit cooler than normal room temperature. So I think I'm OK for environmental conditions. I have a new theory of what went wrong though - I was beginning to assume it was Glosscote in a Dullcote can as has been suggested, after more gloss followed by another light spray of Dull still came out glossy. Giving up on Dullcote for the moment, I gave it a shot of my old can of Krylon Matte and that seemed to kill most of the shine half decently. But I still wanted to figure out for sure what had gone wrong. So I took my 3 cans of matte spray: Dullcote (my newest can), DecoArt acrylic (bought when I couldn't find Dullcote, then found it after all a few days later), and Krylon latex. I took the plastic from 3 Reaper blister packs, wrote a name of one can on each in marker, then sprayed them all with the brand they I'd labeled them with. The Dullcote came out the flattest! Krylon, on the other hand, came out somewhat matte but really splotchy looking. DecoArt was in between the other 2 for flatness but was the most opaque. So I don't think it's Glosscote mislabeled. The gloss spray I had underneath on the mini is DecoArt, and I got to wondering if maybe Dullcote just didn't like sitting on top of this stuff. Krylon Matte seemed to work fine over DecoArt gloss, so I tried a bit of dullcote over top of the blister with the Krylon - it took away the blotchiness and reduced the remaining shine the Krylon hadn't quite killed. So after the Krylon dried on the mini, I hit it very sparingly one final time with the Dullcote - it seemed to improve things a bit more. So I think maybe that was the problem: Dullcote over DecoArt acrylic gloss = shine. I haven't done a blister pack test with that combination yet to prove it though, so don't quote me on it. Anyhow, although there is still a little shine on the mini's cape, I'm gonna stop my quest for matte-ness at this point and go back to re-gloss a couple of sections that are actually supposed to be shiny, and call it done. So thanks for all the help and advice, everyone. If I ever do the experiment with the Dullcote over DecoArt gloss, I'll add the results to this thread. I might add a few pix to my WiP thread to show the weekend's improvement if I get a chance. Either way, it should end up on the Show Off page before long. Kang
  5. Wouldn't that be just my luck, to have a can so badly mislabeled as to have the exact opposite effect of what is should... And here I am, adding more and more of the stuff! I am hoping that a thin layer of gloss then another thin layer of Dullcote, as described above, will do the trick; but if it doesn't, I may just try to find another can. Took me several years to track this one down though, so I am not too hopeful of finding another local store that carries it. I think it might even have been the only can the store where I found it had; maybe they'll have ordered more. If it doesn't work, and I can't find another can, I still have a spray can of DecoArt acrylic matte that works ok, though it's still just a touch on the satiny side for my liking. I am under the impression that Dullcote should be both flatter and more durable (though I may be wrong about the durability), and so I haven't yet given up. Kang
  6. Thanks, primeval! Ideally, someday I'll be able to paint something like this so the head still looks just as glossy, but all the reflections would be painted on. Once the shine is gone from this piece, his head's highlights obviously won't be quite as bright as these reflections are now, but it'll still be the closest I've come to creating that sort of effect so far. Once I do get my Dullcote working though, I am considering going over the slime on the floor with a little brush-on gloss. I'm not yet ready to attempt painting an artificial glossy shine on stuff that was intended to be a light source. Not even sure if that would make sense... The way I did the skull-holes on his victims' remains on the base was to use 2 different sized pin vise bits to drill them out, then highlight the upper edge of the outer (larger) hole and the narrow lip between the bottom of that hole and the top of the smaller (inner, deeper) hole. The small hole was painted black IIRC, or maybe it was very dark brown. I'm quite happy with the illusion of a hollow space beneath a layer of bone that was created. You can see this a bit on the dwarf skull in the smallest photo. The narrow shaded space between the 2 highlights I mentioned could almost be the marrow. Anyhow, glad you liked it; can't wait to kill that shine and move him over to Show Off. I just hope he doesn't pull a TPK in my D&D game over the next couple of weeks... If I get a chance to take some better pictures from other angles where you can see more details (these pix came out surprisingly well considering the way I set up, but I had to delete more than a dozen that were total crap), I'll come back and post them over the weekend or maybe on Monday. Kang edit: Heh, you posted while I was typing. "Just spray it with a matte varnish," eh? Sure sounds simple. You are obviously trying to drive me insane. Not really complaining; I can appreciate that. Been doing the same to the wife for years now, in fact - well played! Have you checked out my other thread about this mini? (linked in my OP). I've been having some major frustration over Dullcote issues. Anyhow, yeah, I'm considering doing as you suggest with the pools of glowing fungooze on the base. Maybe I will do up his skin too while I'm at it. I'll have to think about that. Thanks! Kang
  7. Thanks for the tip, cbp. I'm 100% certain that is not the problem I've experienced though - I shook that thing like nobody's business until I thought my arm was going to fall off, swiched arms, repeated the process, then kept going, timing myself for another 2 full minutes. Anyhow, I have posted a WIP thread if anyone's interested in seeing a few pix of the mini in question. Thanks, Kang
  8. Edit - this guy is done now. Photos of the finished product can be seen in the Show Off section. Here is my first and latest WIP. Note: it's only my first WIP here; been doing this for years, though it's hard to find much time to paint these days. I maybe complete 3 minis a year in a good year, to give you an idea. Another note: if you like spending lots of time on this hobby, don't have kids or get an HDTV or move someplace where you have to drive for an hour to get to your job from... It's my first mini painted with Reaper paints though. Mostly RMS, anyhow - the blue in the robes is from some old GW pots I dug out of their graves. The gold is FolkArt Inca Gold with some Vallejo silver mixed into the highlights; I forget what else but a few small details used craft brands and GW. Anyhow, this is the mini I've been having such trouble applying Testor's Dullcote to - note the persistent glossy shine. I have a thread going about that over in Painting Tips and Advice, and I think I've finally found a solution there (another thin layer of gloss spray, then a dusting of Dullcote) to this problem which began when I put WAY too much Dullcote on in the first go 'round. The PC's are going to be facing this guy in my D&D campaign sometime in the next couple of weeks, so I guess I'd have to say this is for tabletop use, though given the small number of minis I actually paint, I try to give each one of them my absolute best effort. I'd call this guy finished if it weren't for that Dullcote issue, as I'm quite happy with the way he's turned out. Feel free to critique though, of course... Things that didn't work out so well, or at all, in some cases: - My 1st attempt at NMM - the things on his wrists. They were supposed to look like steel. They do not, and I got the reflections all wrong anyhow. Tips are welcome, but for this mini I think I can live with it as-is. - My 2nd attempt at NMM - the trim on his robe, now painted in metallics. Gave up real fast. Some of my highlights when I switched to metallics ended up obscuring the wash I gave it to pick out the trim's details, while in other spots the wash darkened the gold more than I wanted; so you may find this part seems a tad sloppy. Not sure if this is too evident in the pics though. - Dullcote. 'Nuff said. - OSL - the gem in his staff and the luminescent slime-mold on the base were going to be light sources in my early ambitions. I had some hopes of the green stuff on his staff being painted like gems (ie transparent and reflective, with the gem's light coming through the bottom surfaces and reflecting off the tops). I didn't bother with any of that other than the green parts of the staff. That looks better right now because of the glossiness I'm still trying to get rid of than they actually are. How do you paint reflections of red light on green glass anyhow? What I tried with those reflections isn't easily seen here but didn't work like I hoped. Same goes for the gem-light shining through the green areas, though it came out better than the reflections. - The bearded skull - it looks like it is floating an inch off the ground or something if you look closely. I could try to back-fill the gap there, but I haven't bothered. -Freehand - Meh, maybe a bit too pink or something. I wanted to get more ambitious and elaborate with the tentacle design too, but I chickened out. First time I attempted any freehand at all though, so it's not a complete failure. Things I'm pleased with: - The skulls - I'm happy with the way I got the skulls to look like their former wearers had their brains devoured by this guy. I don't have a great photo of that, but you can see it in one of 2 of these. I also gave the beardless skull a gold tooth, just for fun. - Layering - the blue inside his robe has the smoothest transitions I've ever been able to accomplish so far without expending an incredible amount more effort. This part looked a little brighter before the whole Dullcote fiasco began, but I'm still happy with the look. In the past, I've spent hours trying to smooth out transitions between shadow/mid/highlight, often only to end up with just one color for all 3 in the end. I'm hopeful that even once I knock off that annoying shine, the guy's flesh will still look fairly shiny and wet because of my highlights. I don't often get the highlight as bright as I did on his flesh without having jarringly abrupt transitions. I'm sure I could probably push these even farther. - Base - I think the HirstArts tile (cast in dental plaster) with the skulls and luminescent cave-slime turned out quite nicely. I used Laszlo Jakusovszky's granite technique for the stone floor, or tried to, and I'm fairly pleased with the result. The slime is white glue built up in layers, with a little railroad sand for texture. I was hoping the sand would give the impression of young mushrooms just about ready to pop up out of the slime, but if people mistake the stuff for radioactive waste, that's not entirely inappropriate for a mind flayer's lair anyhow. Anyhow, here are some photos I took last night. These were done really quick after 1AM and I didn;t want to wake up the whole house looking for my tripod, so excuse the quality. I'm surprised how well they turned out, given I was holding both mini and camera in my hands when I shot most of these (not to mention I was trying to cover the flash with one finger while shooting, as I'm stuck with my old camera 'til I get the better one - the one whose flash I know how to turn off - fixed). Kang
  9. I just read a post within the past couple of days where someone mentioned the "standard" sizes aren't standard across different companies - one company's 0 is the same as another's 1, or what have you. It would seem that this is true. When you're using a slightly larger brush than you're used to, assuming it has a good point on it, the trick (well, one of them) is to get used to how much paint you need in the brush to strike that fine balance bewteen having to re-dip it too often, and accidentally flooding your mini with the excess. It does take some practice - only just starting to get used to it myself. Like I said though, as long as you are comfortable with the gear you're currently using... Kang
  10. I have seen that advice given on several different hobby forums. Aha! Another layer of gloss in between the old shiny Dullcote layer and the new matte one, eh? I'll give that a shot. Thanks, Kang
  11. Maybe, but another thing to consider might be that your largest brush is a 4/0 (AKA 0000). That's pretty small for basecoating. Many painters, from what I've read, use a #2 or #1 (or even a #0) for basecoats to avoid having the tiny amount of paint a multiple-0 brush holds from starting to dry out before it ever gets on the mini. Sometimes this can result in a more patchy-looking basecoat than might otherwise be achieved. This may not be the source of your particular problem, but it is another factor to keep in mind. The brushes you've mentioned should be great for tiny details, assuming they can hold a sharp point. I used to do everything with multiple-zero brushes too, and I can tell you that I was very happy when I switched to a #1. Of course, it's hard not to be happy with a new W&N series 7 brush, regardless of its size... Don't get me wrong; it's certainly possible to achieve good results using only tiny brushes; it's just that using them for basecoating large areas (IMO) increases the potential for frustration. From the pix you've posted so far, it seems to be coming out fine; I mention your brush sizes only as something to keep in mind - aside from just having fun painting, the most important thing is that you're comfortable with the gear you use. Good luck! Kang
  12. Well, I tried Anne's suggestion when I got home from work yesterday, and went back at it with just a couple of quick passes; enough to barely cover it. This morning: still glossy as ever. If my problem is indeed that I put on too much to begin with, and I am fairly sure that is at least part of it, does that mean it's too late and that any more layers of Dullcote - no matter how thin - will only make things worse? I was assuming that if I put on another properly thin layer once the previous one dried, it would kill the shine. But that doesn't appear to have happened. I still don't think temperature or humidity are my problems. So what do you folks with extensive Dullcote experience think? Is there still hope for my mini, or should I start thinking up excuses like, "Why is he so shiny, you ask? Well, you see, he just got through an oil wrestling match... What's that? Oh, yes of course he wears his cape while he wrestles - he is a mind flayer, after all. Now stop interrupting. Anyhow, he hasn't had time to wash off all the excess Mazola yet, so obviously that's why I went out of my way to give the mini that glistening shiny look..."? Don't put anything past me; I'll do it if I have to. I'd much rather get rid of the shine though, if possible. edit - BTW, my spray-on gloss acrylic is from DecoArt, if it makes a difference. I've still got some of their matte spray that I'm thinking about going back to if I can't get the Dullcote to work out. Too bad, 'cause I've heard so many good things about DC. Kang
  13. Ah. Well, problem diagnosed, then. I won't say how many passes I was giving it... Let's just say the good news is that there's no way my paint job is gonna get chipped anytime soon, and leave it at that! OK, so I might not be completely out of the woods yet. Hopefully I've already (over)used enough of the can to avoid this problem. I'll give it one more long shake and quick dusting tonight when I get home, and report back on my results tomorrow. Been using my basement for spraying since it's too cold out in the woodshed, and right now the floor down there is bone-dry (which certainly isn't always the case in my 104-year-old home), so I'm willing to bet humidity isn't the culprit. Thanks, Anne. Lars too, of course... Kang
  14. As the title says, pretty much. I've looked in on a few threads where this issue came up; even posted in a couple. But I'm not trying to threadjack those folks, so here's a separate thread for the subject. Looking for possible reasons why Dullcote might end up drying glossy. Here are a few possible reasons I've seen posted so far: - Bad/old batch of Dullcote; buy a new can - Need to shake it up more; like, for 2 at least full minutes - Could be due to the brand of paint underneath - Give up, use some watered-down RMS Matte sealer to kill the shine - Using too much per coat I've tried soaking the can in hot tap water for 15 minutes before applying, tried shaking it like a fiend, timing myself for 2 full minutes. I haven't tried doing both in the same session though. This is the first time I've used DC, due to having trouble locating the stuff, so I really hope I didn't get a bad can since any others I'm likely to find probably came from the same box, so they'd be just as old or potentially defective as mine. I'm hoping to get the Dullcote working before giving up and grabbing some RMS sealer, though I'll do it if I have to. The mini I used it on is painted in GW and RMS colors, and I've never heard of anyone claiming these brands make Dullcote go glossy. Also used some FolkArt metallic gold on one section, but I honestly am not as woried if those parts remain a little glossy. In addition, I sprayed it down with craft paint (can't remember which brand) acrylic gloss spray before the Dullcote went on. Heard that gloss spray is tougher, thus helps protect tabletop minis a little better; also heard that some Dullcote over the gloss should kill all the shine. I left it to dry for close to 24 hrs after the gloss coat went on before applying Dullcote. I've been giving it additional coats (after similar drying times as above), trying various solutions, but it still has that annoying shine. I'm wary of giving it too many more coats, lest it simply grow into a glassy ball with a mostly-obscured mini deep inside. But I'm willing to try one more time, if I get any good suggestions. I didn't see the "Using too much per coat" solution until after my last attempt, and I'm feeling like that may be my issue. So, in the interests of seeing whether that may be the case, when you guys are (successfully) spraying Dullcote on your completed minis, how many passes with the spray do you typically make on a given side of the mini? And I'd be glad to hear any other theories or solutions for what might make Dullcote turn into the Shinecote and how to avoid this experience. Thanks, Kang
  15. Kang

    Pistol wraith

    I just tried my hand at using Testors Dullcote for the first time, and mine came out glossy too. I'm quite disappointed, after years of hunting for this brand. Finally found it at Hobby House, locally (aside from Michael's, probably the best source of minis gear within driving distance). Maybe I got a really old can? If so, I guess I'm out of luck, as I haven't been able to find it anywhere else, and it was well enough hidden in the bowels of the store where I bought it that I doubt it's a big enough seller there to ensure they'll have new cans anytime soon. - I did shake it well, though possibly not well enough. - I did go back and give it another coat after it was dry, shaking it a little more vigorously this time. Twice. - I did spray it down with acrylic gloss first, having heard this would help protect my paint job better - I did let all coats of all sprays dry completely before the next layer went on - I did soak my can of dullcote in hot tap water for 15 minutes before my first couple of attempts. So I don't know if it was the particular can I used, something I did wrong, or something I didn't do. But my mini is still overly shiny too. Could it be my spray technique? How many passes do you guys make with the spray can on a given side of your minis? How far away do you hold the can? Would these factors even affect the glossiness of the finish? I might be using too much, but I have no idea if that is the case or not. I'll try shaking the heck out of the can for, like, 5 minutes and spray a thin layer on again tonight, if I get a chance. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll pick up some of that RMS Matte Sealer that Helltown mentioned. Hobby House won't have it, but my FLGS (plug for Fandom II in Ottawa) might... Good luck, and cool mini BTW! Kang
  16. Hey! I've been working on D'Khul Balthalian too, for a while now. Haven't been tallying up the total hours I've spent or anything (not a bad idea though), but it's been going on a month or 2, whenever I get a chance to paint - which is maybe a couple hours per week on a good week. Not too many photos of this guy painted on the net, I've noticed, though there are a few out there - sometimes I find other people's paint jobs help me identify details I'm not 100% clear on what they are supposed to be. Your pic of his feet is the best one you posted of D'Khul; the others are a little blurry or faded or something. From what I can tell, it looks like you did a decent enough job shading/highlighting his robe. If you post some clearer shots you might get more useful feedback on that piece. Those macro shots can be a real b$#*%, can't they? Since I'm done painting mine and am really just so tired of wrestling with my first can of Testors Dullcote to get it to stop making the mini more glossy with each coat (so many people online say it gives such a perfectly flat matte finish - I just don't get it?!?), I'm going to call mine finished and try and get a shot or 2 of it up on the Show Off page sometime this week if I can get my old camera to be nice to me - my 18 month-old son broke the newer, better one on Hallowe'en by slapping it out of my wife's hand onto the hardwood as she attempted to photograph him in his pirate costume... edit - still glossy as heck, so I posted my pix in WIP instead, here. Kang
  17. Here is the monstrous humanoid who destroyed my camera last night... Which explains why this pic isn't of him in his Hallowe'en costume...
  18. Your photos are incredible! How can they be both so huge and so clear? Seriously, what's your secret? My son pretty much destroyed my camera last night, sadly... He's only 17 months old though, so of course I forgive the little guy. Heck, I even forgive my wife, out of whose careless hand he swatted it as she attempted to photograph him in his Hallowe'en pirate costume... I still have my older one* lying around, so maybe there's still hope for me. Kang *refers to another camera, not another wife... wasn't that big-o'me?
  19. I don't get it - why the loonies*? If it's distilled water, there shouldn't be any hardness, right? So are the loonies just there to remind you not to drink it or something? Or am I wrong about the distillation process leaving behind minerals that cause hardness? Anyhow, sorry to go off-topic - all I can really say about your NMM is that it's better than I've been able to achieve. edit -> D'Oh! I swear, I saw an 'i' there the first time. But yeah, if my eyes worked properly I'd have fully understood why one might spend some cash "on" distillled water. It was the "drop" that threw me, I guess. This isn't the first thread that's turned into a discussion of Canada's embarrassing coinage nomenclature, but at least it's the first time I'm to blame! Kang * - AKA $1 coins, for you non-Canadians out there. Sounds goofy, I know; there's a loon (the large aquatic bird, not the nutjob who came up with the nickname) on the tails side. Just don't ask what most of us call our $2 coins, 'cause that one's twice as pathetic...
  20. Saw the word "Catan" on Reaper boards and cried out a joyful, "Gasp!" Yes, I actually yelled the word, "Gasp," rather than simply gasping joyfully. The better to freak out my co-workers... But I don't suppose there's much chance the Asylum will be picking itself up and moving to Ottawa (waaaay up here in Ontario, Canada) anytime before October 20, eh? Oh well. Loves me some Catannibalism, but not enough to travel out of town (much less out of country) to play. Small world! Next thing, you'll be telling me you guys play Talisman too... Maybe I can get my D&D group together for a quick round of Catan that day anyhow. We can use my version of Slipshadow (2653) for the robber - compete vicariously, if you will. Good luck with the tournament; sorry I won't be able to make it out to kick all your sorry butts off the island. Kang
  21. Well, I certainly hold mine in high regard... Anyhow, thanks again for all the suggestions, folks. I think I have all my picks lined up now. Still got a buck and change in store credit, but I imagine that and more will get eaten up by shipping costs. Kang
  22. You can also get the Liquitex versions of flow improver and drying retarder from an arts and crafts store (Michael's and Hobby Lobby in the US). Michael's and Hobby Lobby also have 40% off coupons with considerable regularity. Ron Thanks. FYI, I'm all set for additives; just don't have any of Reaper's is all. Got everything else from craft paint brands to Future to Liquitex Slo-Dri, etc. The only other additive I'm really at all interested in trying out at this point is Winsor & Newton's Flow Improver - seems to come highly recommended, but in my travels I've scoured various Michael's locations, artist's supply stores, etc. from Ontario to British Columbia and haven't been able to locate it anywhere in Canada (just every other W&N additive imaginable, time and again). Maybe it's for the best, as I honestly have more bottles of various additives that I've picked up over the past couple of years than I know what to do with. My particular type of sickness is all about enjoying buying minis tools and gear almost as much as using them in the actual painting of minis. At this point I'll be happy enough to find a 'gunk' recipe using stuff I already have with ratios that seem to work for me... Thanks though, Kang
  23. Thanks for all the suggestions and links so far! Gives me some good ideas for where to start - or rather continue, given that I actually have a couple more bottles than I realized at first... Kang
  24. Aha! I knew I'd seen a list of suggested "starter" paints somewhere... Spent at least 1/2 hour scouring the boards for it; figures it was in that CW. D'Oh! Thanks for the link & quote, Ghaz. This helps, though I'm still eager to hear what others would choose as well. So on to clarifying my OP for Qwyksilver, Vutpakdi, and anyone else who might care to chime in... As for what I normally paint, there's really no set type of creature; I'm not building an army or anything - I buy minis that just look cool to me, sometimes for use as my PC's/BBEG's in the D&D campaigns I play/DM. I maybe buy more monsters than humanoids, but I've got plenty of both at home unpainted, some dating back to the 80's and possibly beyond. I am interested in eventually trying my hand at NMM though if that helps (maybe if people could note which of their suggestions are good for this?). Now that I finally got my membership vaildated, maybe I'll get out my camera soon and put up some pix of my not-that-bad-for-craft-paints stuff in the show off and WIP sections... (OK, I have a very few dried up old pots of GW too, but mostly straight outta Michael's) As far as RMS paints I already have are concerned, I can't guarantee all the names are right, but I'll give it a whirl: - bone triad - twilight triad - warm greens triad - neutral colors (ie. black/white/grey) triad - one of the dark brown colors, not sure which but possibly walnut or muddy <edit - it's actually muddy brown, leather brown, and earth brown - guess I had a couple more bottles than I remembered!) - ochre golds triad - medium skin triad I think that's it. I have already chosen the liners triad with brown/grey/blue; the ~$40 is what's left after that. I'll double-check this list tonight and edit or repost as needed tomorrow if I have time - only have dial-up at home so best to do this at work... at least until they block this site! Thanks for the tips so far, Kang
  25. Hey there folks, If you found yourself with roughly $40 in store credit over at Paizo's website and wanted to spend it on RMS colors and/or triads, which ones would you pick, assuming you have very few bottles of Reaper paints to start with? Thanks, Kang
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