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Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Ironhammer

  1. I really like this one. The green glaze is fabulous. Is it meant to be a patina?
  2. I'll be honest. I'm a huge Star Wars fan, and I'd like to see more figures which would work in the Star Wars universe. Here are some examples of the kinds of things I'd like to see: -Smuggler/Rebel types in vests and jackets -Bounty hunter types in body armor -Various aliens -Alien and human dancing girls -Lightly armored soldiers for rebels, mercenaries, security guards, etc -Rugged and grimy guys for pirates -Jedi/Sith types (especially with the nehru/cassock type collars. In fact, a jedi in a an actual cassock would be pretty cool) -Pilots People in generic jumpsuits that could be either left alone as off duty pilots and sexy heroines, or be subjects of conversions -Droid types -Possibly small vehicles like speeder bike look-alikes I've also developed an affinity for the BBC's Dr. Who series. So, I'd also like to see some Doctor/Timelord types, some Companion types, and something that looks very much like a Dalek ( :lol: ) Incidentally, I really like the idea of sci-fi credit chips. Pieces of eight would be pretty nice too
  3. That's pretty neat. In fact, it'd be cool if we had a thread devoted to the back stories of various reaper sculpts.
  4. Something I've been wanting to see for a while is a mounted DHL Templar. Essentially, what I would like to see (and add to my collection ) is a mounted figure in the same style as DHL 02119, DHL 02178, and DHL 06036. Optional weapons would be really nice (exp, choice between sword or lance) Another thing I'd like to see are more mounted figures in general. What I'd really like to see are some DHL figures that are designed to be mounted, but are packaged on their own so that you can mount them on whatever you like (Reaper's existing horses, dragons, basilisks, etc). I suppose you could always simply buy the people separately from existing DHL models ( like DHL 02346 ), but I'd like to see more variety. Almost forgot. Something else I'd like to see are more accessory packs, but ones with duplicates of a single type of item. For example: An assortment of nothing but swords (with matching scabbards, and either all the same sculpt or different designs), a half dozen matching spears with a weapons rack, multiple items such as lanterns (I really want to see some lanterns. Can't seem to get enough of them), bottles, torches, or dishware, a pack of just daggers, etc. I could certainly continue without end of the number of possibilities. Not that I know how to run a business, but what I think Reaper could do is to take a single sculpt, then case a sprue of 3-4 of them, and then let the customer order however many they want. You would not even have to market them as complete accessory packs, just as bits.
  5. Great job! I must say, I really like the face. Any chance of a closer pic?
  6. Well, I can certainly understand your problem! First though, it might be a good idea to see what you have that you could cannibalize. Spare GW arms are often a great help in this case, though they're not always the right size. With regards to sculpting a new hand, I've been doing a lot of sculpting of my own, and I can tell you right now that sculpting an open hand is about the hardest thing I've tried to do next to sculpting an entire face. I would certainly encourage you to try your hand at it, but (based on personal experience ) you'll need a bit of practice and some basic instruction before you start getting something you are satisfied with. Bear in mind, its not rocket science. I've been able to get some passable results with not too much practice or experience. Here's my basic approach (subject to revision, criticism, and thorough debunking by real sculptors ) 1. Take a small pinch of putty (I use the standard Greenstuff), flatten it out so its about the size and shape of a mini's hand. Make sure this bit is pretty thin, as you will add putty later on and the hand will get thicker. Note: This piece should be the size and shape of the WHOLE hand, including fingers. Think of a flat mitten with no thumb (at this stage, don't worry about the thumb). 2. Let this piece fully cure before moving on (aka, step to: do absolutely nothing. My advice is peculiar that way). 3. Once the piece is cured (aka, you have succeeded in step 2: doing nothing), cover the top of the hand with another thin layer. Then, using a tool like a pin, toothpick, paperclip, sonic screwdriver, etc, carefully sculpt the fingers (I use a pin). I do this by pressing the pine lengthwise in between where the fingers would be. Each of these impressions should be about half the length of the whole hand. Make three impressions, each spaced about a finger width apart. The net result is what appears to be four separate fingers. Once again, let this cure fully before moving on. 4. Now, you are going to do almost exactly the same thing on the underside. Spread a thin layer of putty across the underside of the hand. This time, let a very small amount of the putty spill over past the fingertips, making a tiny flap. Use you fingers to curl this over so that the tips of the fingers are covered (Note: When I'm saying fingertips, what I'm trying to describe is the actual finger TIP, the very front of the finger. The putty should not spill over to the top of the hand). Now, use the pin again to separate the fingers, but this time, start with the fingertips. Using the putty you just placed at the fingertips, lay the pin so that you make a groove which connects to the ones already finished on top. You may have to do this a couple of times at different angles in order to get the groove all the way around the fingertips. Now, you are going to mark the fingers on the underside. Simply continue with the grooves you have just made on the tip, rotating the pin until it is laying flat across the palm, and make impressions as you did on top. Once again, let this cure fully. 5. Almost done! Now, take a TINY piece of putty, and roll it between you fingers so that it is about as thick as a thumb and twice as long. Attach this to the palm of the hand so that half the length is on palm (at a slight angle). Do not flatten! Press gently down on this half of the putty so the part on the hand is only slightly flattened. To find out what angle to lay the thumb piece on, look at you own hand and give a 'thumbs up'. This should give you an idea of how the muscle is distributed, and hence, how you should make this half of the putty look. Now, for the actual thumb, simply move it to whatever position you want it. When finished, let the whole thing cure again. 6. Final Step! The last step is to take a small piece of putty, and put it on the stump of you figures arm. Now, plug the hand into the putty, and carefully blend the two parts. Alternatively, you could leave the putty un-blended, and instead try to make it a bracelet or part of the armour. Allow this to cure, and you're done! Some important tips: a) You can speed up the process of curing the putty by placing it under a hot lamp. Some people even manufacture small ovens to speed up the cure time. b) It is MUCH better if you can put some Vaseline on your finger tips before you start. This will prevent you fingers from sticking to the putty and leaving undesirable fingerprints or otherwise gumming up the works. Seriously, this is an important step for me. c) In general, its very easy to mix far more putty than you actually need. This project needs only a tiny amount of putty. So, its a good idea to have some other project that will allow you to use up all the putty you mixed without wasting it. This also helps to pass the time as you wait for things to cure! Some things you could do include basing, more converting, or simply sculpting practice! Anyway, there you are! I hope that was not too long winded! Cheerio!
  7. Here's my entry! The unpainted wizard is there for scale comparison.
  8. My brother and I have been wanting to try an rpg for sometime now and we were thinking of giving the Savage Worlds gaming system a try. We are looking for something fairly miniature based but with a decent amount of actual Role Playing. We liked the look of Savage Worlds for it’s customizability and price (yes well, you know how it is). Unfortunately we really have no experience with rpgs, so I thought I had better ask a few questions before we commit to the game. So, my questions are, put in an only vaguely ordered way: How out of the box is it? That is to say, can a couple of people new to rpgs actually figure out how to play it on their own? How miniature based is it? What is the minimum number of players? Also, if we do decide to try it: What books/PDF files do we need and (although this may seem strange) where can we get/download them? I believe that Studio 2 publishing is the retailer for it, but I just wanted to make sure. Also if you have comments or advice I’d really appreciate it!
  9. Those are two really lovely minis! I love how you had the fairy match the colors of the flower! I hope to see more of your work!
  10. This one is really nice. My only criticism is that I think that the lady's (ahem) bust is a little large, and seems to throw the figure off a bit. Overally, really nice otherwise.
  11. I like it. The pistol is particularly nice. Modern firearms tend to be done poorly a lot in 28 mm, but yours came our well. Is this figure going into production? Don't worry too much about the Iron Cross. It came in several ratings, second class being merely a ribbon at the buttonhole and could be painted on. You might want to add a tank battle badge though.
  12. I never thought of the Andorians, but when I first saw these guys the color that first suggested itself to me WAS blue. Simply mad Froggy!
  13. I'd like to see Robin Hood and his merry men. I also would like to see some more historical looking knights. Less of clunky and ornate armour. More 12th and 13th century mail, 15th century plate type stuff (the older DHL templars are kinda what I'm thinking). I also prefere my weapons to be more in scale with their users. In fact, a whole semi-historical line of Medieval civilians and soldiers for DHL would be really cool. It's hard to come by good historical figures that are close to the 28 mm heroic used by reaper.
  14. Preiser Elastolin at one time produced a series of multipose plastic nude male/female figures in scales from 1/72 (15-20 mm ish) to 75 mm. They're really hard to find anymore, and there only ones I know of are in 75 mm (link below). While probably a little large for what you want, they really give you a lot of freedom to pose with an excellent basic sculpt. http://www.toysoldierco.com/MainPages/Prod...asp?ItemID=4787
  15. Halloween is probably the second most popular holiday in all of Taltos. However, despite its popularity, in this unstable region it nevertheless remains a less than safe undertaking. You can never know who--or what--- will knock at the door and utter the ghastly phrase: "Trick........or Treat!!!!" "The Disturbed Party" (warning: Pic heavy and SCARY!!!)
  16. I love the bases on your warlord figures! The dirt/debris on the cobblestone is really suggestive of an urban battlefield. I think the justicar is the best. The only criticism I could offer is the nnm on his sword blade (mind you, your nnm's are still better than mine!). Great work!
  17. This is pretty much the technique that I use: Here it is
  18. Hello, I have been a lurker on the board for a while, but this is my first post in about a year. I have been hatching plans for the possible formation of an elven army that would use both centaur archers and wariors. I was thinking of using the DHL centaur archer (02088) for both, with an appropriate weapons swap for distinction. Would such a conversion be adequate to conform to rule four? This is assuming that I intend to use them in official reaper events and that I intend to continue using the figures once the actual models come out.
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