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Posts posted by odinsgrandson

  1. oooh, I saw this guy at Gen Con. Very nicely done! Im not a huge fan of the sculpt, but I believe your paint job maybe helping me to change my mind a bit. Well done and congrats on the Silver!





    On the sculpt, I have to say one thing- he's real hell to photograph. I wasn't too fond of the mini when PP first announced him, but after I got one in my hands all of that changed.


    But he's a mini that's meant to be viewed from above- and that's a weird angle for taking photos of minis. My wife got these photos for me, and she put forth quite the valiant effort to get them.

  2. This is another mini that I painted for the P3 Grandmasters painting competition. He was awarded a silver medal (which I'm proud of, given the competition at the event).


    For those of you less familiar with the mini, I extended the base and cut off some embossed runes in order to paint them back on as freehand.



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  3. I'm not sure that the overall problem is in the red at all but in the overall composition. Essentially, I think that if you put this mini into black and white, he'd have very little contrast. So what you need to do is change the color value for some of the different aspects of him.


    I think what you need to do is use lighter colors for the non-red parts of the mini- the brown on the strap across his chest and bow isn't cutting it. Also, his crest and chest scales could be far lighter. Altogether, lightening up those areas will give your mini a much better composition than it currently has.


    That should help the mini lose the dark look that he has.

  4. Minimaker: Thank you for posting that, it looks really helpful.


    dks: Thank you also, I'll be following your advice also. Do you know how one might acquire a Bobby Jackson eye tool?


    Pyreos: I'm having trouble following your link. Getting a 404 error.

  5. I put this guy together and painted him up a while ago. Then, when I finished him, my spray made him all glossy. It has taken me several months to get around to fixing it, but here are the results.



  6. I've been sculpting for a little while, and I've found that I have difficulty making the eyes of a mini looks just right. (At least on smaller minis, on Ogre sized monsters, they come out just fine).


    So, I'm wondering if I shouldn't try something new. How does everyone here sculpt eyes on small mini? Can anyone give me a solid step by step?


    Also, do not worry about giving me directions for difficult methods, I will work at it until I get it right.

  7. Well a balanced force can be either big or small. The balance more comes into play in how you combine shooting, magic and melee troops. Since magic is resolved simultaniously for each type of combat it pays to mix. You can build a "three stage rocket" for instance where a successful magic attack wounds the enemy lowers his DV. Which the archers then exploit to wound the model further lowering the DV. Then the melee models charge in and finish the model at the much much lower DV. Had you just had all your points focused in one type of attack (for instance melee) then all models would have been attacking versus the high original DV, no matter how many you had.


    Hope that made sense.


    I think that made some sense, but I'm not sure that it fits together with some of the things I've just read. Let me see if I can repeat what I've learned back to you:


    There are three ways that you can attack in the game, magic, ranged, and melee. Although unit activations are done separately, each kind of attack is done together (and in the same order each round?). Also, it seems that previous attacks will reduce the unit's capabilities (defense values especially) so it pays to have some of your attacks go off at different points in a given round.


    So, a typical turn goes:


    1- Both players move all of their units one at a time, according to the cards drawn from the activation deck, until everything has moved.

    2- Both players use the magic that their characters have available

    3- Both players use all ranged attacks available

    4- Both players use all melee attacks they have available


    Is that right? Because I had the impression that you performed a full unit activation each time a card was drawn. This changes the tactics fundamentally (and makes the style a little more Confrontation-like).

  8. Hm... I need to get me some plasticard. Does anyone know where to look?


    Also, there are some methods to making putty edges look smoother, less cartoony and more manufactured. I often use a file or a dremel tool to smooth out the surfaces and give those sharp edges that a spaceship needs.


    Keep on truckin'

  9. I am also a rules junkie, and I bet you can be more specific than that. So, I'll start hammering out more specific questions.


    Is Warlord a 1d6 game with lots of rolls to even it out? A 2d6 game with a bell curve? What kind of choices will give one player the advantage over the other? What does the system favor or force you to do to win? What kind of armies do the rules favor?




    Ok, the initiative deck seems like a nice replacement for the I go You go rules we often see, but it keeps it also gives a much larger advantage to forces with lots of activations against fewer activations- the horde force will have more cards in the deck, and therefore a greater chance that key units will be able to act before your opponent. But this can change quite a bit if going first is a disadvantage (like old Battletech) or if going first can sometimes be good and sometimes be bad (ultimately, it depends on how often these things happen).


    Just so that people know what I was thinking, Confrontation uses (or used) a system where each player assembles his own deck with every card corresponding to a unit. After that each one draws a card in turn and moves the unit on the card. Sometimes it is better to move first, but more often it is better to see what your opponent does first. The game suffers from some disadvantages, but I have only dabbled a little before the announcement that Rackham will discontinue all of their beautiful miniatures in favor of ugly pre-painted plastics.

  10. If you mention some games you play already, we could give you some comparisons.


    Ok, I have been playing miniatures games for quite some time, and I am familiar with many different game systems.



    I've played the very big games.


    Warhammer 40,000 - 2nd, 3rd and 4th editions, although I haven't touch the game in a few years since GW has been spreading the hatred towards their fan-base, and other games have become more playable. Necromunda was a better version of the game.


    Warhammer Fantasy - I played a little 5th edition, but the game was so poorly balanced that I haven't touched that game in more than ten years. Mordheim was a better version of this game.


    Warmachine/Hordes - This game is my current favorite. It is small scale, and I find it is well balanced (although a better player can demolish his opponent quite handily) and I really like the synergistic style the game uses. I especially love the co-dependent relationships that Warlocks have with Warbeasts.


    Confrontation- I dabbled a little, but since Rackham is moving to Pre-Painted plastics, I won't be getting aboard.


    Blood Bowl- Easily the best game GW has ever released. It was very well balanced (except where it was


    'Classic' Battletech- I played this long before the "classic" got added on. The game played too slowly for larger fights, and they changed their point-value system three times on me, Protomechs were terrible. I haven't looked into the new incarnation of the game though.



    I've made a point to become familiar with Wargods of Aegyptus and Infinity, but there aren't enough players here for me to get into either game. I also looked at the Lord of the Rings rulebook and decided the game wasn't for me.




    I would like to know a little more about the game mechanics and how they interact. I don't really care about historical accuracy. It sounds like Warlord uses a similar initiative system to Confrontation, so that could be cool. Also, I've noticed that most Warlord minis have proper names. Can you play a force of 8-10 uberheroes against a tide of enemies?

  11. Hello all.


    I have been painting Warlord (and other Reaper figs) for a very long time. I have been consistantly impressed by the Warlord range of minis, but even though the minis are available everywhere, no one here plays the game.


    So, I'm wondering: Why doesn't this game have more following? I don't know if I want you lot to answer that question, but please tell me the good things about the game. Why do you play this and not one of the many other miniatures games?


    I don't know the rules of the game at all, and I'm a game mechanics junkie- go ahead and give me dice probability tables if it makes your case.

  12. This has been my gut reaction to seeing the pre-painted Legendary Encounters minis:


    I can get all of those in metal already.


    I have re-painted a few D&D minis, and although the bendy plastic isn't so nice as the firmer GW plastics or any pewter, there was something charming about the experience.


    But if all LE minis are available from the Dark Heaven line, there's just no reason for me to pay attention to it.

  13. Ok, I'm trying to comment on way too many things with this post. Let me see now:


    I have had the same trouble with the GW matt finish. It changes the colors of metallics especially. For this purpose, I went out and bought Krylon's Satin finish- this works quite splendidly on minis that are mostly metallic (Warmachine Jacks mostly) but the finish hurts the looks of skintones and dirt etc. Krylon's matt finish doesn't ruin any of my paints, so long as I apply only a thin coat (thus, it is my favorite).



    And, now for Metallic techniques.

    The Jakob Rune Nelson techniques are always quite helpful and solid. Mostly, he uses metallics right away, with a number of solid glazes. Also, the Brushthralls have some good advice (here is their Gold Tutorial You will have to search their specific minis tutorial to get specifics on other metallic colors).




    When Approaching metallics, I often consider the methods the same (or at least very similar) as those I use for any other color. You have a base coat, then you can shade (usually with some ink) and highlight by mixing your base color with something lighter. that's the basics, really, and the trick is to either have several different metallic colors that can be employed in this way, or to use some non-metallic base color with some more metallic highlights. This doesn't seem much different than doing a leather, or a flesh tone, it just uses different paints.


    One of the problems I have found is that most painting lines don't have high contrast silvers. GWs Boltgun to Mithril line is not as good a contrast as I would like, and making the whole thing very grey doesn't help either. I have found a number of solutions to this: You can use a method similar to JRN and use multiple glazes with multiple highlight layers to give your mini more depth. Also, you can use a non-silver base color- (I often like to use bronze, but a dark grey can be worked into nice metallics also). Privateer Press' Precurser Knights were painted this way.


    I don't really understand why there are so many people out there who don't know how to work with metallic paints. You should use NMM because you want that particular look and style, not because you don't know how to do it any other way.

  14. Infinity has a really wonderful line of Science Fiction minis. The trouble is, no one here can stock it.


    I suspect that Reaper can do some nice things with science fiction mini, and I hope this line sells well.


    I would like to see some nice Western minis outside of Black Scorpion (or some minis we can use for Firefly). Or some good 1920s gangster pulp characters. Really, there are dozens of directions this line can take. It almost sounds like a catch-all for minis that don't fit in D&D.

  15. Seconded! I find the Primer test to be extremely interesting.


    I have used Krylon Ultraflat Black for some time (it goes on very smooth, and gives the mini a nice finish from which I can paint details very well). It would seem that using actual primer would cause minis to chip less, however, and I am going to start experimenting with this now.


    I would like to know what Primer can give me the things I like about Krylon Ultra-flat. Duplicolor? I do have some Krylon Grey Primer, I might try that next.

  16. He looks like something from Oddworld. In a good way. Like a macho Abe.


    Here here to the kilt. Possibly, you could sculpt a cloth more similar to those worn by the other Trollblood figs (the sash that ties around his waist and covers his loins). Overall, I think you've done a smashing job.

  17. I started this project a little bit ago, then I realized I'd like to post it up here for some commentary. There are some small modifications to the mini, I only have photographs after I started painting.


    I painted the face first, so here is a detailed shot.




    And here he is a little further along. He still needs a lot of work (the tattoos are going to be painted on his arms, the weapons is barely even started etc).




    I have a couple more pics in my gallery. I'll be updating this thread when I've made more progress.

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