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Everything posted by olliekickflip

  1. olliekickflip

    Reapercon 2019 Class Reviews

    Hey Shadowphaze, sorry you thought I wasn't interested in teaching the NMM class, but I can assure you that was not the case. Teaching is something that I really love to do and I am always open to valuable feedback. If you have any suggestions for making my classes better, I am all ears. Please feel free to email me at aaronadvedge@yahoo.com. I appreciate your feedback! Hope you feel better, con crud sucks!
  2. olliekickflip

    Mangu Timur Updated 1-23-08

    Hey guys, I took a little break from my Sophie madness and started work on this guy. Its a new one from Bobby Jackson. Very nice sculpt...and lots of armor which is what I wanted to paint!!! I started this one right before Christmas and then did some more while on vacation in San Felipe Mexico over new years. I think it is coming along, especially the gold on the helmet and breasplate. The silver still needs some love (a lot of love) as well as his manly dress. Also what do you think of the deep red cross in front...does it work or do you think it should be another color. I can always go darker with it, which is my typical fix but anyways... here he is. Metalics are really hard to photograph close up...I still need a bit of work blending in the gold on the shoulder armor. Actual size comparison Any ways, whatcha think?
  3. olliekickflip

    GDLA Open Entry

    This is my open entry at GDLA. It made first cut...there were so many great models in open, I'm just happy it made the cut. This model is a tribute to Meg's (fieldarchy's) brother Joe, who was murdered in February of this year. She will give it to her stepmom when she goes back for Christmas at the end of this year. His favorite color was red, his favorite number, 15...there is a actual message in the bottle (if you look carefully)...the crab will probably be dinner for the hungry pilot! This model was a blast to paint and the base, although quite a challenge with the wave and all was a lot of fun as well. Anyways, comments are well come...and a vote too!!! http://www.coolminiornot.com/200180
  4. For years I studied those crazy European painters wondering just how they did such fantastic blending? How their models looked so realistic? How they got all those 9's on cool mini or not!?!? Not to mention the speed at which they did it! I kept close tabs on the greats such as Jeremie Bonamant, Sebastian Archer and Vincent Hudon. How did these guys do it...they talk about glazes and washes and "juices". There were lots of tutorials clearly ment for someone else because I just couldn't understand what the hell they were talking about. In the past year and a half or so, I have made some personal breakthroughs. Some things I learned from paying my dues...painting until the wee hours of the night and observing what I had done. Others, were because some one cared enough to show me how to do it. Once equipped with the tools, I have been able to far exceed anything I thought possible before. I am not an artist. Nothing has come easy for me. I practice all the time, I try really really hard, and I fail a whole lot more than I succeed! The key was I just kept coming back for more. More abuse from the painting gods! So anyways, here is what I have learned so far. I didn't make any of this up myself. Most of what I know is taken off the net and from a crazy Frenchman named Jeremie. (whom I will quote numerous times throught this text!) Take from it what you may. If there is anything I have learned, it is that nothing is ever set in stone. A week from now I may paint differently then how I paint today. The fundamentals however will still be the same. The Key is control. What can you control, what can you not control. Lets start with the model itself. It doesn't matter if its plastic, resin, metal or cow dung...your model needs to be prepped before you put on that gorgeous paintjob! I start by cleaning off all the mold lines (or at least trying to!). I use a knife and file to do the initial scraping and grinding. If there is a conversion or the model needs to be assembled, I also start preping for that as well. Before assembly, I go over the model with a 400 grit steel pad that I got at Home Depot as well as 600 grit sandpaper. Try to get the model sanded as best you can. We want as smooth a surface as possible without taking off detail. The next step is to give it a sanding with my dremel tool. I use a bit that looks like a bit of steel whool is attached to it. It doesn't take off detail but does sand out some of the smaller cracks and such. My last step is to use 0000 grade steel wool. I give the model a vigerous wooling and that shines up the model pretty well. The last step in this process is to clean the pieces. I use my sons current toothbrush (honestly, he really doesn't know the difference...just that every once in a while, his toothbrush is a little dirtier looking than normal!) No really, I use a spare toothbrush and a bit of soap and wash the model thoroughly. Ok, ready to paint? Not quite! Next step is to mix up a wee bit of Milliput ( <a href="http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=81004" target="_blank">http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=81004</a> ) Do not get the Fine grade, it turns to absolute mush with water which defeats the purpose. Mix up your blob of Milliput and then add a couple drops of water. Mush it up until it becomes a paste that you can paint onto your model. Paint the Milliput onto your model in areas where there are still scratches and or pot marks in the metal (pewter often times has little imperfections in the metal. This will muck up a perfetly good robe or piece of armor. You want to fix these imperfections because the way I will show you how to paint, it has a tendency to draw pigment to these areas and then your screwed!!! After this step, I usually give the milliput a day to dry real good so I can come back and do a light sanding to smooth everything out one last time. I wash the model again and I'm ready to prime! Once the model is free from any water residue, I prime it white. I prime using short burst of spray. Basically I am just giving the model a light even coat of primer. You will still be able to see metal or plastic showing through the primer coat but this is ok. You do not want a solid primer coat as this will actually create a barrier to which your subsiquent coats of paint will not adhere as well to. Now before we start, let me just say that this is how I paint. This is how I get the results that I do. You are not obligated to paint like me. Nor do you have to believe anything that I say. I'm sure my painting style will go against much of what you already know. You may try my techinque and say ollie's on crack! I tried his technique and it didn't work. To that I say....TRY IT AGAIN...THEN AGAIN...THEN AGAIN. Try it until it does work for you! Add your own spin to it and make it your own technique! I guarantee you smoother blends and quicker paint times! You will find yourself happier and will probably live longer! (well, I'm not quite sure about that last statement but hey!) Ok, lets get to business! I start by preparing my wet pallet: <a href="http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31964" target="_blank">http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31964</a> As far as colors go, they really don't matter at this point. Pick whatever you want, what matters now is technique! When I choose the color I want to paint with I take out my intermediary color (the color the object is going to be in real life), a light beige or white color to add for my highlight and then a darker color for my shadows. Often times it will be a nice shade of navy blue. In this case, I am using P3 colors (again the brand does not matter. Reaper, GW and P3 all make fine paints...use what you got!) My Intermediary color is Trollblood Base I highlight with Menoth White Base up to Underbelly blue and then just a smidgen of white.\ For shadows, I added Exile Blue, Sanguine Base (this is a deep wine color), Coal Black (a tealish black) and a very little bit of black. The paintbrush I use is an 8404 Raphael size 0 paintbrush. It is a very nice brush and is comperable to the WN series 7 brushes. <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/zz050/48/" target="_blank">http://www.dickblick.com/zz050/48/</a> I only add water to my paints. Nothing else. If done properly you will not need any of the other "paint aids". You can acheive perfect blends without the help of anything other than water! I find that it is much harder to do highlights than it is to do shadows so I start my base coat at about 70% of what my final highlight color will be. In this case it is a 60/40 mix of Menoth White Base and Trollblood Base. To that I add probably a 5 to 1 ratio of paint to water. I want this stuff to be really watery. I apply it as a first coat very quckly and very wet. Be sure to cover the entire area you want to paint. Then with either a clean brush or clean the brush your using, blot up all the excess paint. You dont want there to be any pools or excess paint in the cracks. You want to go for a perfectly smooth layer of paint. Be diligent about this as subsiquent layers of paint will be screwed up if you don't! After the first coat is dry, I apply the second coat agian making sure it goes on even and does not pool in cracks or basically anywhere! When the paint is dry is should have a very "dry" look to it. If it starts to look shiny, you have put too much pigment on the model. Acrylic paints tend to start sealing themselves off at a certain point. They get a plastic look to them and they actually start to repel subsiquent layers. Its not to say that paint wont still stick to itself, but it sticks much better when it is not "sealed". It has taken me a while to figure this one out, in fact, this ogre is the first model that I have not gone overboard with paint and ended up with the "plastic" look. At this point, I started adding in some of my intermediary color to the "base" color. Again it is watered down about the same as the base coat. In this case though I am not slopping it all over the model. I am putting it where I want color to be. This is something that either you have a natural ability to judge or you have painted way to many models and just figured it out. Personally, I'm still figuring it out! I apply this paint by "pushing it to the area I want it to go. In this case it is from light to dark. Notice the area on the right leg and foot. there is just a hint of color. When you "push" the paint, I usually take my brush, load a bit of paint on it and then unload most of it onto a paper towel. Then I apply the brush to the model with a bit of pressure and slowly ease off of that pressure when I near the end of my brush stroke. This tends to let far less pigment off the brush at the start of the stroke and more at the end of the stroke...ah the starting of a blend! So for the ogre, I started my brush strokes on top of the leg at about the midpoint and stroked donwards towards his leggings. For the underside of the leg, I started midway down the side of the leg and stroked under the leg. For step two and sometimes three, you use the same exact color!!! Just re-apply the color to add to the richness of the color. I usually start a bit lower with the blend though to create more depth. Notice that the leg and foot are a bit darker than the first step and that the blend is staying smooth! This is just two hits of the same color and we are already getting results. With the speed at which your paints dry, you can literally just sit there with the same color and add and add and add until you heart is content! I hope your excited, because I am!!! Yes, I am a dork! At least my girlfriend already knows and accepts this! Also, please note that when you are applying color, make sure it is as thin a layer as you possibly can. The more you paint looks like a drop of water on your model, the better your chances of a jacked up blend are! Here is an example of paint thickness. Notice that the horizontal navy blue and dark red streaks are at full strength (right out of the pot) and the light blue and red streaks above them are at "blending" strength. The amount of water you use will also vary. You just need to to tests to see what works best for you. I tend to use all different amounts of water during painting. It really just depends on what I need to do at that time. Do I need more pigement? Less? Its just a matter of adding more or less water to the mix. this is something you will just have to get the "feel" for as you gain more experience! OK, this is a good start for now. I will add more tomorrow!
  5. olliekickflip

    i just wanted to say...

    I am so freakin excited to be coming to ReaperCon this year! I can't wait to see old friends and even make 2 New friends! Anyways, see you all in a week! Prepare to get your "paint on". ps: I really want to go to Texas Land and Cattle for dinner one night...let's make that happen. It could be a Reaper takeover!
  6. olliekickflip

    i just wanted to say...

    My journey to ReaperCon starts today! Can't wait to see everybody! Especially Ron cuz he's a sexy beast! LOL
  7. olliekickflip

    i just wanted to say...

    Ha ha! Well, anyone who knows me knows that im the worst at remembering names! I'm 99% positive that I might be able to remember 2 new names LOL. Now if I can switch to nicknames, we could up that number to say....17 :)
  8. Hey everyone, I will be holding a painting class at this years Orc Con. I know that a lot of you here on this forum are far far away from this but if your anywhere in the Southern California area, I encourage you to swing by and check it out. OrcCon is one of three conventions that Strategicon holds every year in Los Angeles at the Radison Hotel. The painting class will be held in conjunction with my game clubs biggest event to date. The Broadside Bash http://www.broadsidebash.com Reaper has been generous enough to add to the ever growing prize support with some of the super cool Reaper Master Series paints!!! (this just happened yesterday so we don't even have them added to our website...but we will!!!!!!!) Back to the lessons: Follow this link for more info (you just have to scroll down the page a bit) http://www.strategicon.net/index.php?goto=events The class is from 6:30-10:00 (or beyond!) on Friday February 15th, 2008 I will be demonstrating how to acheive perfect blends, color selection, metalics (nnm and real) as well as proper application of light and shadows. Each student will get a color wheel as well as a quick reference painting guide (used with permission from Jeremie Bonamant). We will also go over how to make my ghetto wet pallet...and how to use it properly. Lastly I will go over some cool basing ideas. Bring a primed (white) model as well as brushes and some paint and we will rock and roll! Also feel free to bring some already painted models so we can all take a look at them and laugh at you (just kidding). This will be benificial as I can see where you are at paint wise and hopefully give you good tips for improving you painting style. I will also be bringing all of my display pieces for you to check out and laugh at as well! Anyways, I hope to see some of you at the painting class. Oh, and don't forget, there is a big painting contest at OrcCon as well...and as I always say, "You can't win if you don't enter!" http://www.strategicon.net/index.php?goto=painting Lastly here is a little Christmas cheer from me and the boys from the Pacific Marauders and the Broadside Bash! http://www.elfyourself.com/?id=1284875315 aaron Oh, and to the moderators, if this is in the wrong section, feel free to move it...I just didn't know where to put it. a Here are a couple of things that will be on display.
  9. olliekickflip

    My ReaperCon Photos

    great pics! Soooooooooo wish i was there...
  10. olliekickflip

    Hollywood squares 2011 - video?

    Um...I only spilled my beer on you twice Mr. Proctor! Lol
  11. Cool Mini or Not, Strategicon and the Broadside Bash present: The Road to the Crystal Brush Painting Competition What to expect:- · All entrants must have a OrcCon 2012 badge to enter. No exceptions · Entries will be accepted from 10am to 3pm on Saturday February 18th in the Broadside Bash room. · Fill in a form at the check in counter. · You will be given a reclaim ticket stub, and a sticker will be stuck on the bottom of your model identifying your ownership. · Your models will then be placed in the display cases with a small card identifying your model only by number. · You will be given a time and date to collect your models after voting is complete. Your reclaim ticket stub is required to prove ownership. · Short listed winners will be notified at reclamation to be present at the awards ceremony on Sunday February 19th; if short listed you must be present to be eligible to win. Prizes a) Each category shall have a Gold, Silver and Bronze Crystal Brush certificate provided. Each entrant is only eligible for one certificate per category, i.e. it is not possible to win gold, silver and bronze (or any combination of two) in a single category, the next runner ups will be awarded instead. b) The top 3 scoring entries overall across all categories shall receive credit voucher prizes of $75, $50 and $25 respectively, guaranteed by CoolMiniOrNot, as well as special versions of the Crystal Brush certificate. Each entrant is only eligible for one top 3 position, i.e. it is not possible to win any combination of the first, second and third prizes, the next runner-ups will be awarded instead. c) Best of Show winner will receive a plane ticket to The Crystal Brush 2012 painting competition at Adepticon in Chicago. d) In the event of any dispute, the sum total liability of CoolMiniOrNot to any entrant shall be whatever the entrant paid to CoolMiniOrNot directly related to the Crystal Brush 2012 competition, i.e. $0. All rules subject to change without notice. Judging a) Judging will be by panel selected by CoolMiniOrNot, Strategicon and Broadside Bash. Categories a) 28mm to 32mm scale Science Fiction i) Single “human” sized figure, on a base no larger than 50mm wide / tall ii) Vehicle or large monster, on a base no larger than twice the horizontal dimensions of the model. b) 28mm to 32mm scale Fantasy or Steampunk i) Single “human” sized figure, on a base no larger than 50mm wide / tall ii) Vehicle or large monster, on a base no larger than twice the horizontal dimensions of the model. c) 28mm to 32mm or 1/35 scale Historical i) Single “human” sized figure, on a base no larger than 50mm wide / tall. ii) Vehicle or large monster, on a base no larger than twice the horizontal dimensions of the model. d) Open Category i) This includes anything that is not listed above. Max size for entry is 12" x 12" x 12" g) New talent i) 28mm to 32mm single “human” sized figure on a base no wider than 50mm wide / tall. ii) Entrant must be 14 years or younger, i.e. have been born no later than April 21st 1999 UTC -12. iii) This category is not eligible for Best of Show awards Rules a) All entries must be entered in person by the person responsible for all the painting on the model by 3pm on February 18th b) An Orc Con Weekend Badge is required to submit models into the contest: http://www.strategicon.net/ c) Entries must not have been entered into any competition previously. There is a limit of 2 entries per entrant, per category; however, take note rule 4a and 4b regarding awards. d) Entrants are responsible for the transportation of entries to and from the competition. No storage space for transportation materials will be provided. Entrants must pick up entries on April 3rd at the designated times provided at the event. e) No team entries allowed, and sculptors of original sculpts and conversions of manufactured models who did not paint the models entered will not be listed as entrants (i.e. no co-credit). f) Entrants must remain available for judging, queries and prize awards during the competition. g) Entrants agree to provide all entries, at their own risk, to CoolMiniOrNot ,for the duration of the competition for the purpose of display, photography and judging. CoolMiniOrNot, accept no responsibility for damage to or loss of entries during the competition. h) Basing that includes decorative plinths, rules clarification. Plinths will not be considered within height restrictions, but will not be photographed, or otherwise considered by the judges. i) Entrants agree to have their entries photographed, videoed or otherwise recorded by CoolMiniOrNot, and such recordings shall be the property of CoolMiniOrNot, and shall be used in whatever manner CoolMiniOrNot, sees fit without further reference or payment to the entrant. For more info on Orc Con, go here: http://www.strategicon.net/
  12. olliekickflip

    Dark Sword Thief of Hearts

    You rock!
  13. olliekickflip

    Reaper Paints and Wet Palette?

    Using a wet palette takes some getting used to. That being said, I won't paint without one! Parchment paper works best as it doesn't allow water through but keeps your paint workable for a long time. Wax paper will work in a pinch but does let water through and thus does not let you have full control over your paint consistency. Also over time the wax paper will break down and you will have tiny flecks of wax in your paint....this is really bad and hard to fix once dried on your model! If you go with a mastersons palette, don't use their paper either as is let's watter threw very quickly.for best results, make sure your water level is flush with the paper...this will keep your paint workable the longest. If you don't have a sponge, use 3 or 4 paper towels folded into quarters. As soon as the parchment paper touches the water it will want to curl up so put a pot of paint on each corner for a couple of minutes to keep it flat. As for adding water to your paints I recommend that you only add water to the outer edge of your paint....this way if you put too much water in, you can easily add some undiluted paint to the mix! Hope that helps!
  14. olliekickflip

    Lara Kraft Mousling - Pandora's Box

    Rad!! Totally digging the base!
  15. olliekickflip

    I'm on my way!

    Me neither...I leave at 1:27 on united
  16. olliekickflip

    I'm on my way!

    Me too...in Denver right now!
  17. olliekickflip

    Welcome dinner?

    I hope sooooooooooooooooo!
  18. olliekickflip

    Bör Dragonbane

    im not a huge fan of the green cape...that being said the nnm is just awesome! And I love that you put some purple into the skin and rocks...it compliments the nnm gold quite nicely! Great use of color for sure. Now just work some more on your blending and you'll be made in the shade!!!
  19. olliekickflip


    Great colors! Really good fig!
  20. You are truely a master Derek!!! The face is stunning!!!
  21. Preparing minis for my Reapercon classes!

  22. olliekickflip

    To hell and back

    Hopefully by the time I leave for Reapercon! The elbow is actually a painting injury...so I'm not sue it will get better. But thanks for the well wishes anyways!
  23. olliekickflip

    To hell and back

    Hey guys, here is a commission I did recently for a guy in Germany. If you are on my facebook page you have no doubt seen the work in progress shots...it was an adventure! I would highly recommend the videos by Mig Jeminez. His new company is AK Interactive and they make some wicked videos on weathering and finishing vehicles. If you are inventive, you will think of ways to incorporate some of his techniques back into miniature painting as well...just keep and open mind. My customer wanted an Ultra Marine Land Raider Achilles battle tank but he wanted it to look like it had been in battle. It is painted to display standards. He also send me some pre-painted Ultra Marine Terminators that he picked up on ebay...I upgraded the paintjob and then weathered them to match the Land Raider. Terminators: (two hour paintjob on each) Land Raider Achilles: (20 Hour paintjob) Painted with Acrylics, Enamels, Pigments and Oil Paints.
  24. olliekickflip


    Very nice!!! I like the building behind them as well!!
  25. olliekickflip

    To hell and back

    @ Heisler: Your correct! But I just wanted to beat the snot outta that dread! @ Shortbeard...who's name would be much better if it was....Shortbread!!!: Be careful what you wish for... To everyone else, thanks for the comments...I know I haven't posted in a long time and mainly thats because, I have been so busy...every job has some crazy deadline and there is just no time for photos these days! At least not good ones. I'm nursing a very sore elbow right now though so maybe you will see a bit more outta me as I have had to slow my painting down to a snails pace...