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Ravenwood

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    Ha'iku, Maui

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  1. Foamcore works great for buildings, I have building "skins that I print out & glue to foamcore, give them a roof of painted manilla folder cut tiles & they are good to go...
  2. I'm using an Optivisor with a #3 lens & It came with a nice spotlight & transformer set up attached (It was a gift from a friend's father. He used to be a doctor & used it in his practice before he retired. It is an amazing kit, esp. when you are painting driver's periscopes on your microarmour...
  3. It's an example of how figures look after they have been dipped in the Army painter quickshade & let dry. The skeleton was not painted, just dipped. After it dried, I painted the Scythe & flocked the base. The other minis were just "block painted" (single color coats, no shading) then dipped. It's a fast way to paint lots of figures AND protect the paint job...
  4. Pretty much what everyone else has said, & since you are going to be using these as RPG figures (non-painting gamers can be a bit rough on paintjobs, not to mention the occasional errant die) I recommend using a product like Army Painter Quickshade, to both cheat a bit & put a bulletproof protective finish on your minis. Here's some early examples, back when I first started using the stuff: Linky
  5. I found this JASCO brand paint stripper at ACE Hardware. Nasty, Caustic stuff with a Gazillion warnings, but if you need to take a miniature that was dipped in who knows what kind of paint, to the point that you can barely tell what it is, down to brand new shiny metal with no scrubbing (in 15 minutes, no less...) This is the ticket!
  6. I tried a similar effect using black instead of blue, so I started with a grey basecoat & kept drybrushing each layer with a lighter shade, made by adding a little white to the previous shade. I then hit it with a thin black wash to give it some more definition. I'm tending to think that if you follow a similar process using a light blue and keep adding white & use a blue wash, it may work.
  7. Or you could just use RUST-ALL. Here it is painted over Vallejo Panzer Grey. It goes on like paint & cleans up with water. You can find it at most hobby stores that also sell model trains.
  8. I'm not sure what product Jackie-Paper is using, but I am using a product called Army Painter Quickshade (it comes in 3 intensities-Light, Strong & Dark.) The examples I posted are using the strong tone & were dipped, then shaken really hard (7-9 good hard swings) to get rid of the excess (do this OUTSIDE!) after drying for 24 hours, they got a spray of matte sealer to kill the gloss.
  9. Google is your friend... http://www.peginc.com/Downloads/TourOfDark...ebase_omaha.jpg http://www.vhpamuseum.org/Places/images/firebase.jpg I also asked the old man, who did a brief stint there, & the short answer was "hell no...we made it up as we went along."
  10. http://www.hlbs.co.uk/product.php?id=555 IIRC, RLBS in the states carry them...
  11. Heh...tell me about it, as a historical re-enactor I've yet to see matching shades of butternut or madder red unless they came from the same bolt of cloth. The classic french blue that so many Napoleonic games use, in reality looks like anything from almost black to a navy blue to an almost medium blue depending on the dye batch & wear. I like the odd looks my 28mm brits in their ragged , faded wear & mismatched non uniform pants get from some gamers. I have to remind them that in the Peninsular campaign, uniform re-supply was almost non existent...
  12. Here's some before & afters using AB quickshade (strong tone) Here is a bare figure dipped so you can see what it does Before after
  13. That is an absolutely incredible miniature! The colors & metallics are perfect & the whole composition is just amazing! I look forward to seeing more of your work
  14. I was trying to decide what to paint next, having gotten bored with redcoats & dwarves, when "the house carpenter" by Joan Baez came up on my iPod, which caused me to remember that I had purchased this mini a while ago & added it to my misc lead pile... So, I dug it up & gave it a go (I was reading the fluff & realized I screwed up, she's supposed to be a blonde) and so, my Razig force gains another crewmember...Looking back at it, even though it is intended to be a gaming figure, not a display piece, I may have to add some more highlights to the skirt & hair to bring out the detail more. Oh well, back to more redcoats...
  15. I usually use the shadow color as the base coat, hit it with P3 Flesh wash, then highlight with the base color, followed by the highlight color if needed
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