Jump to content

Doug Sundseth

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Doug Sundseth

  1. I think I have to disagree with (or at least caveat) that in this case. The drips are from what I believe to be the top and near the top of the piece. Well-thinned paint applied too heavily is more likely to have the drips at or near the bottom of the piece. They are also near an edge, which will tend to scrape even thick paint off of a brush. (You're welcome to speculate on how I know this. ) It's also true (I think) that the coat of paint was applied too heavily, but I don't think that's the only issue.
  2. First: Good paint will cover white primer regardless of the paint's color. It will not necessarily cover in one coat, though. It looks to me like you have different problems with the first and second pipe: On the first pipe, your paint looks too thick (you can see drips flowing down inside the pipe). It also looks as though you are trying to get too much coverage with a single coat. On the second, your paint looks a bit thin, though the appearance might be a result of the lighter color of the base coat. In both cases, I think you are putting too much fluid on the surface at
  3. a) Keep rinsing and using new soap until the rinse water runs clear and the brush doesn't leave tint when wiped on a cleanish cloth or paper towel. b) You don't need to wash your hands over and over again. c) The Winsor & Newton brush cleaner or equivalent is the solvent. You don't need to use it every time you use your brush; just every once in a while. FWIW, I use The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver rather than the Mona Lisa product. (Masters is also sold by Blick and Michaels.) I'm sure they both work well. Also, I've been told by better painters than I am that cheap
  4. One of the problems with the lead-carbonate sequence is that the corrosion products are gas permeable. In this, they are like iron oxide (rust). Once the process begins, it will continue unless you change the conditions and stop the corrosion. Some other metals have much more benign corrosion paths. Aluminum is quite reactive in atmosphere, but the oxide is not gas permeable in normal circumstances. The result is that the surface oxidizes, but then the process stops. Similar things happen with copper alloys (patina formation), which stops when the bare metal is covered. While any
  5. Fair enough. But "skin tones, & browns for pouches/belts etc." will nearly always be red-orange, orange, or yellow-orange. For that matter, nearly every color that would be described in ordinary conversation as "brown" will be one of those colors. For all of those plus black, red, gold (yellow to yellow-orange), and silver (gray to bluish-gray), a blue-green of some description could work well in a split-complimentary color scheme.
  6. The other thing that good handwriting is really useful for (though not cursive, so much) is math. It's a pain in the rear to try to do fully marked up complex math problems on the computer unless you have software specifically designed for the task. With bad handwriting, problems can be very hard to work, because of space and confusion. Precise handwriting that is lined up properly and easy to read makes math much easier.
  7. The picture is a bit too small for a cogent critique, but for the base, perhaps paving stones and an upturned hat with coins? And maybe the side or corner of a fountain if you want a particularly elaborate composition.
  8. For more than you probably want to know about lead rot, see Lead Corrosion in Exhibition Ship Models. Note that wooden display cases and many common chemicals can exacerbate the problem. This is specifically a problem with lead miniatures, though. Lead-free white metals have much less problem with corrosion than high-lead alloys. So it's probably not a problem unless you have fantasy miniatures produced before the mid-90s. (I'm pretty sure that many historical miniatures makers took longer to go to lead-free alloys, though.)
  9. You could also treat the brown as a muted orange (which it is, of course) and then use that and the red as split complements of a turquoise or other blue-green.
  10. I use Krylon Black, White, Gray, and Red-Brown primers (mostly Gray) all the time, and haven't had any problems with bad surfaces, watery primer, or poor drying of paint. As with any spray can, of course, you'll want to make sure you get all the paint out of the nozzle and internal tube after painting a batch of figures. You can do this by spraying upside-down until no more paint comes out when you are finished. (Probably unneeded advice, but there you go.)
  11. You want to look at the colors of natural-fiber ropes (browns and greys, depending on the fiber) or leather, which would be one of the same colors, but probably highlighted a bit more than a fiber net to get more of the sheen of leather. As alternatives to the bone triad, you might consider the warm light browns triad, the Terran khaki triad, ivory bone triad, or maybe even the undead skintone triad. I'd pick the color to work with the rest of the figure, and if you're painting multiple net throwers, you might want to use different colors on separate figures for variety. (Natural fibe
  12. I'm surprised that the detail on the front of the figure looks so washed out in the picture. The scales look much nicer in person, for instance. Perhaps you should ask Jen for some Photoshop pointers? (It really is very crisp, smooth, and evocative.)
  13. That's because Jen was busy melting it. (Which probably won't make much sense, but there you go.) The pictures are done well, but it's noticeably nicer in person. The piece absolutely deserved Best in Show, and would have placed no worse than second in Masters. (Had the piece been in Masters, the discussion about first place would have been ... complex. The piece that Marike won with was gorgeous, but the decision wouldn't have been an easy one.)
  14. Those are more than just similar. Take a look at the details of the figures -- the bent upper quillon on the left-hand sword, the keys on the belt, the folds in the cloak where it crosses the right arm, .... They're built from the same body with a slightly different head and a couple of other minor changes.
  15. Musket Miniatures (http://www.musketminiatures.com/) has eagles in HO scale. They use a frameset on their website, so I can't give a direct link, but if you choose Catalog > Rustic Rails (HO) > Wild Animals, you can find the link (with pictures).
  16. No worries; I didn't think you were holding spaces but thought it worth the question. Depending on which table Marike's class is running on, I might just listen in from the next table.
  17. The body and clothing are quite nicely done; I'd find them interesting to paint. Three critiques: 1) The hands and fingers are both a bit large, but hands are notoriously hard to do. 2) The eyes are set a bit high in the head. 3) The volume of the head looks to be a bit less than it should be. (The effect is exaggerated by #2, above.) (2 and 3 are predicated on the figure being intended to be a human, of course.) I hope those help. And, for what it's worth, I wish I had a tenth of your sculpting talent.
  18. Propylene glycol is used as a feed supplement for lambing ewes. If you live in or near a rural area, you can probably find it in large quantities at a feed store. It's also the base chemical in non-toxic antifreeze, but that normally has a really nasty green dye, so I wouldn't recommend that. BTW, some years ago I was talking to Dan (whose last name I can't remember right now) of Blackhawk Hobby Distributors. He recommended using propylene glycol rather than water when thinning acrylic paints to reduce clumping problems. Since he'd formulated the Armory paint line some years befor
  19. Lawful Neutral Elf Wizard (7th Level) Ability Scores: Strength- 12 Dexterity- 15 Constitution- 13 Intelligence- 19 Wisdom- 14 Charisma- 13 One point away from LG, and one point away from Human. The class wasn't close: 10 Xs for Wizard and the next lower was 4 for Sorcerer.
  20. Are you holding open any spaces in the painting classes for on-site registration? (I know that this is done with game slots.) If so, maybe I can still get into that class of Marike's.
  21. I had the same problem. Note that the price for Doug Jones's all-day Saturday class was $14 when I received my registration confirmation. It's reasonable, but it wasn't advertised as that anywhere, which I find a bit annoying. Further, even though the classes say "No player limit" in the prereg book, there is clearly one in practice, as one of the classes I signed up for was noted as "Cannot register for 616.1 () because this event has already reached its reg limit of 5 players." Again, this isn't much of a surprise -- I know the room and the tables, and there was always going to be a l
  22. FWIW, I did some looking and the sources I found indicated that at mature adult male polar bear is about 5' tall at the shoulder and 8.5-10' long. That's fairly close to being in scale with the driver. The bear is more than a head longer than the driver is tall and the driver is about a head taller than the bear at the shoulder. I think your perceptions might have been disrupted a bit by "heroic scale" beasts; beast miniatures of many sorts are commonly out of scale relative to human figures from the same manufacturers. That said, if you want a smaller driver, 15mm is probably way to
  23. That looks like it's intended to be some sort of studded leather. If you want to paint it that way, you'll want to use metallics (or their moral equivalent). Any metal should work; I'd pick one that works with the rest of the colors chosen. Perhaps a nice, bright copper? The warm red should complement the cool green of the cloak.
  24. It pains me to say that I'm going to miss this month; it's been invaluable to me. Do you plan to run the group on Saturday, 9 Feb, for those last-minute changes to Genghis Con entries? (I hope.)
  25. Note that in the early Bronze Age in the Middle East, up until maybe the end of the Old Kingdom in Egypt, bronze was mostly made with copper and arsenic rather than copper and tin. A reliable source (Nigel Tallis) told me that this could be a much whiter metal than what we now think of as bronze. Some compositions could be represented as steel or silver without much of a problem. Plus, you can then expound on the history when told that the metal is the incorrect color. (Yes, Pedant is a prestige class; shall we compare levels? )
  • Create New...