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Doug Sundseth

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Everything posted by Doug Sundseth

  1. The term you want to search for is "Tamiya Fine Surface Primer", and it's available from many of the usual places. Maybe. Stickiness doesn't always happen, even when using the same spray. I suspect that using light coats with time in between to make sure the solvent evaporates completely would help, but you're kind of on your own with sprays and Bones. No specific recommendations from me, I'm afraid, since I use an airbrush for priming (and would for varnishing as well if I did that.)
  2. Probably this game: https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/149896/alien-vs-predator-hunt-begins
  3. @shadefoundry From the available evidence, the big problem is the interaction between the spray primer and the plasticizer, especially in early Bones casts. Isopropyl does a pretty good job of cleaning the plasticizer from the surface of the figure, and might also leach some of the plasticizer from the plastic layer closest to the surface. So IPA probably helps reduce stickiness. People have reported stickiness from spray sealers used after painting. I would expect that any paint used after priming would have the same issue if the paint has that issue anyway. (Acrylic paint is a bi
  4. Tried a translucents paint job with too many colors, specifically a cloak of a different color than the tunic. One of the problems with translucents is that you functionally end up mixing the the colors on the front and back of the mini. And green and purple don't mix so well. Well, I use it as an example of what not to do when I teach a translucents class, but that might not be what you were thinking of.
  5. I don't see "One more turn" anywhere there. Obviously not correct. If you try to charge more to cover the expense and difficulty of going into a disaster area and the opportunity cost of not staying in your own area, you get complaints (and sometimes legal charges) for "price gouging". It's no surprise that people don't "flock to the area".
  6. If you want black without using black, try mixing relatively dark complements. I often use Burnt Sienna and Phthalo Blue (Green Shade) to make a chromatic black that is quite dark. And mixed correctly, you can even lighten it up to make cool or warm grays that work nicely.
  7. I think you're probably old enough to remember those ads for a "submarine" in the backs of comic books. You've seen it, you just might not have known it.
  8. Leaving aside the question of what "scale" means as regards miniatures (25/28/30mm is really a size, not a scale, since most such miniatures aren't sculpted to be scale models): 6mm, 1/285, 1/300 scale WWII (and probably OGRE miniatures, though I'm not sure what their nominal scale is) - You can do quite a bit with these guys 1/700 naval - Mostly when I was young, but the models are very interesting to build and paint. 15mm - Ancients, medievals, Napoleonics 1/72 aircraft (and a few 1/48) - Used for Mustangs & Messerschmitts, Fighter Pilot, and Blue Max. And when I
  9. Suggestion: for the glazing layer, try one of the following: Badger Ghost Tints colors Gloss single-pigment translucents, like the Golden Fluid Acrylics Quinacridone Magenta, Phthalo Blue or Phthalo Green, or almost any yellow heavily thinned with gloss medium Reaper Clears mixed about 1:5 - 1:10 with Reaper Gloss Sealer Glazes with matte paints will tend to kill the shine, but gloss glazes work better.
  10. Here's a review/trailer-ish thing of an Alpha Build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fq-EATy0zo
  11. It probably costs less, since you don't need to add opacifiers or tinting agents to the plastic. But @ttuckerman is right that translucents don't look good in packages. Even the slight translucency of the early model Bones figures makes it much harder to see the cast detail and makes the miniatures look like the detail is very soft. You can't really see what you have until the figure is primed. Which probably argues against casting the figureheads in clear, but since none of the other colors would work with a clear ship, the only other option would seem to be multiple colors for th
  12. I hope that if they don't they make them all translucent. I can make an uncolored translucent into any color I want, but I can't do the same with green, and I can't make opaque gray translucent at all.
  13. Nope, it's still considered a Class 1 (no medical use) Controlled Substance by the Feds. The gears of government grind slowly, but they grind exceeding coarse. And note that I don't have a dog in this fight. I try pretty hard to keep all sorts of particulates out of my lungs and random chemistry as controlled as possible in my body.
  14. For those who liked Owlcat Games's Pathfinder: Kingmaker CRPG, they're running a KS campaign right now for Wrath of the Righteous. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/owlcatgames/pathfinder-wrath-of-the-righteous They've funded (almost $750,000 now, which is 2.5 times their goal). The first game was very buggy when it came out, but Owlcat did a good job of squashing the bugs over time and the final game is one of the best CRPGs I've played, with excellent story and very good (if occasionally very punishing) game play.
  15. Well, I now own a 3D printer. It's still in its box, since it showed up yesterday after work. So here you go: Isn't that pretty?
  16. Years ago, an acquaintance printed T-Shirts with 7-Years War Austrian banners, one of which should have had a a caption that read "Leibstandarte". Unfortunately for him, it read "Liebstandarte" instead. Which seems really picky unless you know that the translations are, respectively, "Life Standard" and "Love Standard". Not quite the right tone, don't you know.
  17. It's funny reading this thread. There are several references to some sort of Golden Age of GW, before they went all money-grubby and bad. And depending on the person, this might have been 10 years ago, or 20, or 30, or whatever. The first version of WHFB that I bought, I bought at Origins '86 in LA. And I haven't seen any substantive changes in the way the company works from then to now. Oh, there are minor corrections, the quality rises and falls (though the sculpting has always been pretty good for when it was released), and the tone stays largely the same. And for that entire ti
  18. If you are selling music, should you sell a physical vinyl album or a digital file? I mean, after all, if you sell the digital file, anyone could distribute it where ever. Welcome to 1985. We are currently in the 1985 of 3D printing. Some number of customers are moving to a mostly printed workflow while others have neither the tools nor the interest. For physical sculpts vs. STL files, you need to decide what your competitive advantage is. If it's in creating beautiful, highly detailed casts that a consumer printer can't really print at home, it might well m
  19. Good question. That would certainly argue that they've tested its toxicity. (The article I saw was a couple of years old.)
  20. You think you're joking. But I've seen minis (French Napoleonic or ACW Union Iron Brigade) spray-painted blue, dipped head and foot in black (for boots and black shakos/Western hats), and then a single brush stroke of flesh tone across the face and hands. Let's just say it works better on 15mm figures than 25mm figures. And better on 6mm than 15mm. At 2mm, you can skip the flesh tones.
  21. Looks to be available in tube acrylics from Derivan in Australia, labeled as "Oregon Blue". I don't know that they've exported the paint anywhere else, because it hasn't been safety tested at all, which could make for importation problems.
  22. Generally very good. I work with marketing groups in the company, and many of those people are graphic artists and designers. And since lots of people in those professions got into them because that was the only reasonable way to make a professional salary as an artist, they tend to be pretty interested in other art. And one of the people in our paint group got into it because I mentioned miniatures painting at work since he was already getting into roleplaying. I've generally had decent luck with talking to people in fabric stores, both for costuming and grou
  23. The basic concept is to use the same techniques in painting cockpit glass as you would to paint miniature gems. A short version (video and text descriptions are pretty easy to find): Paint the entire piece of glass very dark, usually a very dark version of the color you intend to use. Paint a gradually lighter gradient on the bottom part of the glass in your reflection color. This could be any color, really, but a somewhat desaturated blue (a grayish blue) is very common, leaving most of the upper part of the window dark. Paint a point, line, or curved triangle (o
  24. Of course, both Ethanol and Acetone are quite flammable as well, so they're not really a significant advance in safety on IPA.
  25. Oh, of course not. Wish I'd known about that before putting in the order. But the Mars was only $240, so it's not a huge problem.
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