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Doug's Workshop

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About Doug's Workshop

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    Indianapolis, Indiana

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  1. Sine Nomine Publishing, Red Tide Campaign Sourcebook and Sandbox Toolkit. For $8, the toolkit is well worth the money. There's some campaign-specific terms, but everything is very compatible. The supplement itself is written for Labyrinth Lord rules, but any half-decent GM can substitute "1d6 cultists" for something else. A quick example of a "borderland site": d10 = 10 = Trading Post Add 1 "tags" d4 + d10 = 4, 8 = Uncertain Title, then 2, 6 = Faded Glory Each tag has a selection of Enemies, Friends, Complications, Things, and Places So,
  2. Honest conflict is better than dishonest harmony.

  3. I’m not a doctor, and my analogies are not the best, but . . . . I also won't be surprised to learn that different blood types are more prone to the clotting effect than others. I know there's some evidence that some types are more likely to have better outcomes than others, so I fully expect that genetics play a role at some level. Which isn't surprising, as there's a rare gene mutation that prevents HIV infection. This gene may have played a part in certain people surviving the Plague back in Europe's Middle Ages. It's weird being fascinated by the data and informa
  4. White Star? Yeah, my Swords & Wizardry stockings are showing . . . . But it was either that or pointing out that Stars Without Number has a merchant expansion, a cypber punky expansion, a military campaign expansion, a naval campaign expansion . . . . Okay, I also admit to being a Kevin Crawford fan.
  5. The mixture sounds like what the standard of care is (or at least, was) where I live. Don't know if it's been changed (haven't talked with the medical professional for a couple months). Eastern Virginia Medical School also has this mix described in their Critical Care protocol. For anyone interested, reading that document should provide answers to the "whys" for each piece of the mix. Get well. I'm sure you'll be back to hobbying soon.
  6. The only purges I've done were related to sorting through a bunch of old paint I picked up at the end of a paint-n-take. After a couple years, knowing I wasn't using those paints, I went through and transferred some to bottles I was using, pitched the dried out ones (retrieving the Reaper skulls in the bottom if possible), etc. Rarely do I discard old brushes because old ones can always be used to mix paint or for terrain pieces where detail isn't important. Just last night I used a brush I wouldn't otherwise use to stipple a building's wall because (1) it was handy and (2) it was large eno
  7. I lived in Irving (between FW and Dallas) for a year about . . . 18 years ago, so take my information for what it's worth. Yes, it's hot and humid in the summer. Winter was weird for me. A whiff of snow sends the metroplex into shutdown. The year I was there an ice storm hit the area. I drove to work to find that I was the only person on the entire site. Now, driving after an ice storm is not unusual for me, as I grew up in Michigan and lived in Colorado, so I can handle snow and ice. Not so much for everyone else. Hail is as thing in the spring as the storms move
  8. I have both GW and Reaper washes. I also have some Vallejo washes. And I've also made my own. My own are by far more versatile. I have made a Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade equivalent that are far more concentrated than GW's, so I can dilute it to what I want. I can add more medium to make it behave more like paint, or airbrush medium to make it more wash-y. I find Reapers a little thicker than GW's. However, use what you can find. There's only one semi-local store to me that carries Reaper paints, and that stock was pretty sparse the last time I went. Mos
  9. Are you in a comfortable environment? Then the temp/humidity are fine. I've painted in 65F and 100F. I've painted in the low humidity of Colorado and the supersaturated atmosphere of Dallas. It doesn't matter. I've primed models when it was winter outside, and I've primed models when it was raining outside. As long as the sky-water doesn't get on the model, it didn't matter.
  10. 1982. It was a good year. My dad bought me my first plastic model, a 1/72 scale A-10 Warthog. I discovered Star Blazers on television. And a school-mate introduced me to Dungeons & Dragons (magenta box). Miniatures came later, at Christmas of 1988. I had finally found a group outside of school-friends to play with, and as I could drive I was able to actually go to other people's houses in order to play. One of the players painted minis, and I was . . . less than impressed by his creations. Certainly, I could do better. So, I asked for the Ral Partha Learn to Pai
  11. I've had this happen to many of my brushes. Invariably, it's the cheaper ones. The W/N and DaVinci haven't done this. But the cheaper ones absolutely. I don't own any Rosemary brushes, so can't vouch for the quality of them. But every company has quality control issues once in a while. I blame leaving the brush sitting in water. If the lacquer gets cracked at all, if there's anyplace water can get through, it will, and then the wood will start to absorb it, swelling. This cracks the lacquer and makes the problem worse. Having said that, it doesn't impact my paint
  12. I don't understand the fetish of watching people play D&D online. I mean, I vaguely understand the desire to watch sports, and I completely understand watching movies. But watching an RPG is . . . not the way to experience it. Watching paid actors do their RPG thing doesn't help me run a better game; I think it sets up a weird expectation amongst players. But, obviously I'm not the target audience. No, an additional sourcebook isn't going to make it's way onto my bookshelf. IMO there's way better stuff produced by others (and if you happen to run a game based in the histor
  13. I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest instead of buying a whole bunch of new paints, effort should be made into learning color theory and how to mix your own colors from existing shades. There's really no reason to have 18 shades of blue. I say this as someone who has 18 shades of blue from various manufacturers. Or, I can take a mid blue, add a bit of blue or brown liner to darken it. I can add a bit of dark liner and a lighter color to desaturate/gray it. I can add a touch of orange to make it a different gray. It makes for faster painting, and trains you to use
  14. As an aside, you should kill the links, as commerce links aren't allowed on the forum. With Black Friday coming up, I'd sign up for emails from USA Airbrush Supply and see if a decent deal is offered. My first airbrush was an Iwata, that I bought as a kit. Cost me somewhere just north of $300, I think, but I'd learned enough about airbrushes at that point to know it was something I'd get my money out of. And it is. I also purchased a cheap Harbor Freight one, just so I'd have something to beat up. I can feel the difference - Iwata's is smoother, with a better finish
  15. The smallest brush I have is a Winsor & Newton Series 7 at 3/0. I don't use it very often, since the paint tends to dry before I can get the brush to the miniature. The usual brush for details is a W & N series 7 size 0. Eyes, stippling, freehand, thin lines, it does it all. My normal brush is a W&N size 1. I can do eyes with that one as well.
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