morganm

Sorcerer:

Those are freak'n sweet!

Primed one gelatinous cube and cast another; this time with a crayon melted in it to make it green =P

Coming around real nice! Those colors scream 'ranger'; I really dig it. The face is my fav; followed by the beard then his undershirt/tunic thingy. Are you gioing any darker on the bow as it gets closer to the body?

You're doing well; nice shading and highlighting on the cloak. I wouldn't put a wash on it. Here's what I would do; take the mid town recipe and add some brown liner (or other dark brown) to it. Get it nice and thin! Then go in and put a couple of layers in the deep folds. Just like you did for the highlights but at the deepest parts instead of the highest parts. See how you like it then; should add a lot more depth to the cloak. I'm with Mercius; paint it as a boot. Nice dark brown so it doesn't blend in with the lighter colored brown cloak. The red will be tricky to highlight and shade; read up on some other threads how to highlight & shade red. If you just add white you'll get pink =/ Thx for posting these! I know it's a PITA taking pix, optimizing them, uploading, posting... but we love watching your progress!

Really? Personally I prefer the 2100 and 2200 series ones. They have a really fun cartoony feel. The faces remind me of Ed Roth's cartoons. Yeah; I prefer the newer one as well. To me the older ones look like some freaky mix between undead (the heads/faces) and frogs (overall body and appendages). *shivers*

I'd sell it too; especially since you got another copy to game with.

Don't sweat the shiney red right now; you can take care of that with your finish/varnish. I wouldn't add Anti-Shine to your mixes at this point in an effort to dull the shine; you've got enough addatives in your mixes as it is.

Made a mold and cast my own gelatinous cubes using paraffin wax. So far so good but final results remain to be seen.

This thread should help answer a lot of questions around what brush to get and why. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=33939&hl= I ended up going with: Davinci - Maestro Kolinsky - Series #10 Round - size 1 and 0 (I use the size 1 for almost everything now; rarely switch to a 0) DaVinci - Maestro Kolinsky (Red Sable) - Series #1200k Liner - size 0 (I don't use these very often but when I do grab them I'm never dissapointed) Blick - Masterstroke Red Sable - Round - size 2 (for washes and large areas. so far ie's keeping a nice tip but i dunno how long this cheap brush will last) Love these brushes! Best thing I've bought for painting; no contest. My Citadel and Reaper Kolinsky Sable brushes are all but worthless now. They lasted only a few sessions before their hairs were all hosed up and never keep a point. That's even with cleaning them regularly. Obviously all of the other super cheap synthetics I've bought are all trash as well; they last 1 or 2 paint sessions at most.

I'm far from a good painter but I'll throw in a couple cents =) With regards to the bow melting into the body and having a mass of pointless metal to deal with; I can sympathize. one of the kobolds I'm painting right now has a similar issue where the staff melts into the leg/waist and theres this blob of metal that is neither staff nor body. What I ended up doing is painting it with the darkest shadow color to make it dissapear in the shadows. That bow is rather sad; there's no detail at all! Are you allowed to change the model for the competition? It would be pretty easy to add details like this: http://www.reapermini.com/FigureFinder#detail/03166 To be fair about bows with out detail... while looking for that example I'd say half of the Reaper models with bows had no detail at all. Seems like the mooks get crappy bows and the elite dudes get the nice bows =)

It's not too late is it? You could go in and shade the bone club some and put in some more time on any other parts you aren't satisfied with.

As promised; here's the recipe for the final skin highlight. I edited a previouse post where I talked about the final highlight to include this. Final Highlight: 2 drops Rosey Skin 1 drop Ruddy Leather 1 drop Oiled Leather 7 drops water

Thanks everyone =^.^= About the blue... that's just Breonne Blue and water. 1:1 ratio. Not sure if this has anything to do with it or not but... it's not from a RMS dropper bottle. It's in a sample pot that came with my Learn To Paint Kit #2. It started to get a little more shiny when I added Blue Liner to the mix for shading now.

Outstanding man; really sharp! Those wings have a lot of depth to them now compared to the khaki.

I'd say clothing. Look how the frilly cuffs meld right into the flaps; it all appears to be the same piece of clothing.

Spent a couple of hours laying down base coats on other bits. All recipes are basically the same. 1:1 paint:water and laid down in 2 or 3 layers to get full coverage. For example the greens are 2 drops Leaf Green and 2 drops water. Previouse 5 posts show each model's current progression.

Acolyte: Leather is Oiled Leather. Green is Leaf Green. Basecoat of 1:1 paint:water.

Archer: Leather is Oiled Leather. Blue is Breonne Blue. Basecoat of 1:1 paint:water.

Axe Murderer: Leather is Oiled Leather. Basecoat of 1:1 paint:water.

Seal Clubber: Leather is Oiled Leather. Basecoat of 1:1 paint:water.

Shaman: Blue is Breonne Blue. Green is Leaf Green. Brown is Oiled Leather. Basecoat of 1:1 paint:water.

By that measure I would say it was too thin because I would put some on and wouldn't notice any difference. Yeah, I tend to overthink things =/ Sometimes I catch myself and other times ppl catch me and say K.I.S.S =) Thx again!

Did base coating of clothes and leather bits as well as some touch up lining for the kobold party I'm working on. Good weekend for painting =^.^=

Looks like the rebel set also has some mouse/rat figures; as well as other woodland adventurers. http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/rebels.html