morganm

Thanks for the tips! This would be for use on a mini. I used paper to show how much paint it was actually leaving when brushed on. If I showed painting on an actual mini you wouldn't see much of anything because my camera isn't that great with video. When I laid it on the model I couldn't really tell if it did anything and that was with 2x magnification I did end up doing 4 layers of it on the kobolds I'm working on here. I didn't take any before shots but here's the result: http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz10/pic_dumpster/2010-03-04_Minis_Painted_Kobolds_Final_Highlight/ I dunno if it helped or not but it didn't make it any worse. I didn't want to put on too many since I didn't even know if it was a glaze or not =) However I couldn't resist experimenting with it. How many coats should I put on ? Or do you just put it on until it's as smooth as you want it? Can you put on too many and how do you tell? Do I need to wait for each layer of glaze to dry before putting on another? Totally bone dry or still a bit damp? When you say it's about right; would you say it's a little on the thin or thick side?

It's a movie, click and watch it =)

For some reason I envision them arguing with the same voices from the aliens in Mars Attacks. =^.^=

Did I make a glaze or not? Is it too thick or too thin? How do you tell if it's too thin? Too thick?

The previouse 5 posts show the final highlights. I'm calling the skin 'good enough' and moving on. This was about 2 hours of painting. I put on 2-3 layers on each model. Also went back and did a bit of lining where midtones had covered some of the previouse lining. Final Highlight: 2 drops Rosey Skin 1 drop Ruddy Leather 1 drop Oiled Leather 7 drops water The transition was a little more stark than I wanted so you may want to either adjust this recipe to make it a tad darker or use a glaze to make it a more smooth transition.

Acolyte:

Archer:

Axe Murderer:

Seal Clubber:

Shaman:

Up to you, of course, but the Mythbusters showed that wooden cannon can work, so it's not obviously stupid. And just imagine how much superior a dwarven crafted wood cannon would be! =)

Hmm I saw the Liquitex Matte Varnish as well; glad to hear it's a viable alternative. I'll 'prolly pick up some of that since it was even cheaper. Thx!

I wouldn't get too hung up on a wood barrel. It's reinforced with metal and it's magicly enhanced right? =) Perhaps it is Darkwood or Ironwood or some other super strong fantasy wood. Maybe it's just wood on the outside of a metal barrel? Alternativly you could smooth out the wood with greenstuff and paint it as metal.

Is Windsor & Newton Matte Varnish a viable product for a brush on matte sealer/varnish on minis? Comes in a good size bottle; it's not a spray on product. Right now I use RMS Brush On Sealer but it's going fast! I use it for a finishing sealer on models as well as some wash recipes. Wondering if I can use this W&N Matte Varnish the same way.

Check out World Works Games; by far the best card stock terrain I've seen and used. Dave's stuff is great as well; a close second to WWGs. Fat Dragon is OK but a little cheesy IMHO. Also WWGs is working on Malifaux specific terrain with their current "Deadfall" model set project. http://www.worldworksgames.com

Put 2 layers of final highlights on koblds.

Sorry; I married into a Pepsi family and I'm now a born-again Pepsi zealot. =)

I'm working on some kobolds in the thread below. Scroll down to the last pics where I've done a little highlighting. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/39109-reaper-kobold-party I want to do the next highlight in an effort to bring out some more contrast. Here's what recipes I've used so far: Lining: 3 drops blue liner 1 drop brown liner 1 drop water Basecoat: 4 drops ruddy leather 1 drop oiled leather 1 drop rosey skin 6 drops water Shadow: 2 drops ruddy leather 2 drops brown liner 1 drop oiled leather 1 drop rosey skin 6 drops water First Highlight: 2 drops ruddy leather 1 drop oiled leather 1 drop rosey skin 5 drops water * added 1 drop oiled leather, 1 drop rosey skin, and water as I worked on these. So my question is how to lighten up that highlight? Add more Rosey Skin? Maybe add Linen White? Please advise, thx !_!

Goal: finish kobold party.

About 3-4 hours on SUN for the kobold party. on to March!

Sunday I put on 3 or 4 thin layers of highlights (about 3 hours of painting). The previouse 5 posts show the latest photos with highlights. They aren't as bright as I'd like; more of a step up from the mid tone rather than a sharp highlight. This is mostly because I couldn't decide how to brighten up the mix... do I add more Rosey Skin, or do I add more Oiled Leather, or perhaps add a totally different color like Linen White? Highlight Recipe: 2 drops Ruddy Leather 1 drops Oiled Leather 1 drops Rosey Skin 5 drops water * as I did these highlights I added 1 drop Rosey skin and 1 drop Oiled Leather and 1 drop water. This is for two reasons; one being the color wasn't bright enough and two the paint was drying out in the well so I had to ad water to keep it thin. I feel like I've lost some muscle tone and contrast when I added these highlights. I did not put any highlight onto the shadow areas but some layers did get on the midtone. Do I go back and do more layers of midtone then highlights again to fix this? Or do I just move to a brighter highlight over a smaller area to gain more contrast? I'll have to go back and do some more lining soon as well; the shadows just aren't quite dark enough IMHO. That will help to gain some good contrast as well. Love how smooth the layers are turning out. That's something I've really struggled with and it's finaly coming around. Since I want this to be a pretty comprehensive Work In Progress I thought I'd share a couple shots of my work area. Here's my scratch paper where I wipe off excess paint. You can see the liner mix there on the far left. In the middle is the midtone. Then on th far right is the lighter color.

Kobold Archer:

Kobold Acolyte:

Kobold Seal Clubber:

Kobold Axe Murderer: