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Everything posted by morganm

  1. Thx for the kind words. Here's some shots of highlighting. Kobold Shaman:
  2. Glad to have another new painter here :D I'm actually gonna pick up this same model so I hope to learn from your work in progress here. Pls keep posting your progress!
  3. I think you also wanted to show this pic: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w13/rgtriplec/IMG_2178.jpg Do you find larger figures easier to work on than smaller ones? What model paints did you use?
  4. Had a few friends over this weekend for a craft night. One decided to paint a figure. This is the first mini he's ever painted. I'm quite impressed with how well it's going. He even did the eyes! Those are tough enough but the brushes he was using were pretty rough which made it even harder. So far I think he's done with the skin. There's a base, shadow, and highlight.
  5. This time I took individual photos of them so you can really see them up close. Please point them out by name if you are going to C&C on one rather than all of them. Some seem to be turning out better than others; I feel like the muscle and bone structure is less pronounced on the smaller ones. Much happier with how the larger ones are turning out. The previouse 5 posts show them with a base coat (which took about 3 layers) and about 5 layers of shading. Spent about 4 hours doing the shadows. Now in that amount of time I have to add water as I go to keep the paint thin because of the dry air in my house. Since I drag the brush on the edge of the pallette to get the bulk of the excess paint out of the bristles I can watch the paint consistance; when it starts to thicken up I add a drop or two of water. Same recipe for shadows on all of them. 2 drops Ruddy Leather 2 drops Brown Liner 1 drop Oiled Leatehr 1 drop Rosey Skin 6 drops water
  6. Kobold Seal Clubber: Also like this one as well; the muscles are really starting to take shape. Layers are going on smooth.
  7. Kobold Axe Murderer: I like how this guy is going so far.
  8. Kobold Acolyte: He's a very tiny bugger to work on!
  9. Kobold Shaman: Really neat figure but not a lot of skin showing so he's easy to do thus far. I think he'll be a challenge later what with all of the small details (like the glasses! =)
  10. Kobold Archer: Realy tiny figure that's hard to work on but coming along OK
  11. I think the weasle from 02756: Familiar Pack IV would be most menacing! =) Thx for your replies; it really does help.
  12. You should be proud; it's turning out fantastic! Photographing red is a challenge. Check out this thread for some tips. http://www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=911040
  13. Do you use glazing to get such smooth blending? If so then how many times did you glaze the sword to smooth out the transition from light grey, grey, to the purple/red? If so then did you do all of the layers and glaze afterward? Or did you lay down layers, glaze, lay down more layers, glaze, etc?
  14. I had done this lining before I learned how you did your wash. That was what my question really was all about; to wash or specificaly line things. On the kobolds I tactically lined everywhere two different materials/bits met... which is painfully slow. I think next time I'll use your approach and do a wash so I don't have to be as specific about where I put the lines. I can't take credit for the recipe. It's actually Anne's (eCookie for whoever knows where Anne *published* that recipe! =) What I'm wondering now is how to lighten it up for highlights.... so the base recipe is 4 drops ruddy leather, 1 drop oiled leather, 1 drop rosy skin. Do I use Oiled Leather or Rosy Skin to lighten it up? Maybe Linen White? I plan on using brown liner to darken that recipe for shading. Thx all !_!
  15. 2+ more hours now and skin is base coated (4 drops ruddy leather, 1 drop oiled leather, 1 drop rosy skin... eCookie for whoever can figure out where I got that recipe =) There's 3 layers on the skin right now just to make the base coat. Went back and touched up some lines and did some lining I had missed before.
  16. Started on some kobolds for an up coming game. Figured I'd share the WIP as I go. About 2+ hours into them at this point. I thought they were already prepped and primed but it never fails; soon as I put on white primer I see mold lines I missed. Had to do some more filing and then patch up with more primer. Then I set out to do some dark lining (3 drops blue liner, 1 drop brown liner, 1 drop water)
  17. Thx for the answers. Love the sword; amazing really! I gotta ask.... is his other arm a suprise or something? O_o
  18. Were you very deliberate about where you put the wash or just covered the whole figure with it and let it pool where it may? Did you hold the figure upside down so the wash stayed more in the folds and lines in the armor? Do you remember the recepie you used for that wash? And if you use some sort of gunk what was the recipie for that?
  19. Put in another 2+ hours on the kobolds. All of them have about 3 layrs making a base coat for their skin.
  20. Finished preping and lined 5 kobolds. 2+ hours worked
  21. Refering to your earler shots ... looking at the armor... Did you go in and line specific areas individually or did you put on a wash?
  22. My DaVinci's do the same thing; if you let them dry out completely they poof out. Even during a paint session if I'm done with one brush, I rinse it out and set it aside, it will dry and poof out like that. I rinse often while painting, try hard to keep paint out of the ferule, and clean them after every single paint session. After cleaning them I use regular old hair conditioner and reform the bristles to a nice point then put the cover on for storage. That keeps them well formed while they wait to be used again. Is this all totally necessary? I'm not sure but I do want them to last as long as possible!
  23. I fought with spray primers for months; all with bad results. I switched to RMS brush on white primer and have been much happier with the results.
  24. Glad to hear it! Not something that needs to be done with every single paint. I think starting with the more unique paint products would be most beneficial.
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