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McSmash Smash

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by McSmash Smash

  1. Well, that sounded "official". Lol. Oh well, the term "hypthetical endeavor" gave me some hope for some future Warlord support. At least we can look forward to some new Bones to be used in Warlord in the next kickstarter.
  2. There is the Icingstead army which pretty much, if you wanted, could consist of all giant creatures such as frost giants, dragons, yetis, ice trolls, and frost wryms. Your model count for an army like that would be pretty low since the points costs are pretty high, but it still would look impressive.
  3. In Warlord, your army is broken up into troops. Each troop needs a leader which can be a warlord, captain, or sergeant unless a special ability allows a troop form without a leader. Also some troops may just be a single model like a monster or character with the solitaire ability. The number of models in a troop is determined by the leader's troop capacity which is stated on their stat card. The troop capacity is given as a range so there is a minimum number of soldier models needed and a maximum number of soldier models that leader can command. There is second number after this range which is the number of elites that leader can take. So for example, a leader's stat card might say (3-6/2). This means that the leader must at least take 3 soldier models and no more then 6 soldier models, and may also take up to 2 elite models. So if you were to max out this leader's troop capacity, you could take 6 soldier models and 2 elites for a total of 8 models. Another thing that is pretty unique to Warlord is that there is no unit coherency rules besides from deployment. This means 1, no penalties if you troop gets split up, and 2, you can have really diverse models in a single troops. So for example, I could mix both cavalry and standard infantry units into the same troop. I can have the cavalry units charge ahead with their greater movement while the infantry march behind. There are benefits for keeping a troop together such as Support which if you have 3 or more models attacking an enemy, you gain +1 to hit.
  4. I don't prime my Bones. I just wash them good with Dawn dish soap to get any mold release off of them. Then give them a base coat and let that thoroughly dry before I start highlighting and shading. I then give them two coats of Liquitex matte varnish brush on to seal everything down and protect the paint. I've been using these miniatures for months now in RPGs and miniature games with no sign of paint chipping of flaking.
  5. You take 6 Ivy Crown Archers and a Troop leader or an Elite with the Divine tome. You cast Blessing on the Troop of archers giving them all +1 on their rolls and then you use the archers rapid shot ability giving the all +1 to their #RA. Normally, the rapid shot SA lowers the RAV by 1, but the blessing cancels that out. So you get 12 shots at the normal RAV. Or just a -1 penalty if shooting at extended range.
  6. Don't let us discourage you from trying Warlord. Everyone posting here really has a passion for the game and would like to see it grow and thrive. Right now Warlord is kinda a "stumble upon" game. I had been collecting and painting Reaper figures for RPGs for years before I heard about Warlord. One year at GenCon I saw that Reaper was running this game called Warlord. I tried it and loved it. I bought a copy of the rules, took it home, and got all my gaming buddies into it. Now its our go to game. That's how the community for this game currently grows by word of mouth and people demoing it for their friends. If you're going to build two armies, might I suggest Necropolis and Crusaders. Necropolis is more of your hoard style army with cheap units like skeletons, zombies, and ghouls, but with some pretty heavy hitters also like the Crimson Knights. Whereas the Crusaders are more of a smaller elite force with heavier armored knights and cavalry, but with a few squishier units like archers, but they can lay down a hail of fire if used right. This way you can see how to different types of armies play under the rules.
  7. Mantic Games offers the rules for all of their games as pdfs for free and also offers printed rulebooks for sale. I prefer a physical rulebook. I seem to be able to flip through a real book faster then trying to navigate through a pdf. But if I was a new player, I would definitely be more inclined to play a game if the rules were free. Plus in all honesty, when getting into a game what would you rather spend your money on miniatures or books? Plus, since Reaper states they're a miniature making company first, offering the rules for free is just promoting the sale of more miniatures. Its giving another outlet for their products.
  8. I love Warlord. I started with 2nd edition, but I also have a 1st edition book. My gaming group likes to use the campaign system out of the 1st edition book and we like some of the rules for fighting in urban environments like fighting is building and through doorways. Since core mechanics between both books are pretty similar taking bits and pieces from both books works out fine with only some minor tweaking. The first edition book was a lot more narrative and felt more like playing an RPG whereas the second edition book is a straight up wargame. I use to participate in the Warlord tournament, the dungeon crawls, and Dragons Night Out at GenCon. Sadly, Reaper hasn't been at GenCon for at least 3 or 4 years now and this year I didn't see any of the dungeon crawls or Dragons Night Out in the event catalog. People would always comment on how much they loved the dungeon crawls and would ask if this was a home brew system. I would tell them its based on Reaper's RAGE system and there is a whole miniature game and rulebook if they would like to play more. I think it would be great is Reaper could some how include a relaunch of Warlord in their next kickstarter. Maybe include a new section in the book for generating states for models that way people could do their own dungeon crawls and use all those shiny new Bones. It seems that dungeon crawl games have picked up recently. Look at Mercs with their Myth game and Mantic with Dungeon Saga.
  9. Another thought would be to buy magnet sheets which can be found at most office supply stores. They come in 8.5 x 11 sheets and are quite thin because they are meant to be run through a printer to make your own decorative magnets. You could cut the magnet sheet to the correct size and glue it onto some sytrene for some rigidity and then attach rare earth magnets to the bases of your models. This way you have movement trays with no perimeter ridge. So no arguments with your opponent about measuring distances, base to base contact, and such. Plus, I think the magnet sheets you can get a 5 pack for $10 and as far as rare earth magnets, I just bought a pack of 100 off ebay for $6. So they would be pretty cheap to make.
  10. Since in KoW you don't actually remove models and their bases have flush sides, couldn't you just glue the bases together? Glue them together in ranks of 5 so you can adjust for larger or smaller units depending on the size of your game. Unless this would make it more difficult to transport.
  11. There is canopy glue which dries without fogging on clear parts. It is normally used for attaching canopies and windshields on airplane and car models.
  12. I'd like to see fantasy sewer dwellers. I'm thinking a gang children and teens that are pick pockets, thieves, and vagrants. Kinda like Oliver Twist meets fantasy with characters like Oliver, Dodger, and Fagin. Also some kind of evil rat charmer/ Pied Piper.
  13. Not so much a mini I would like to see, but I would love to see a line of dungeon tiles made in the Bones material. The Bones material is light, flexible, and durable unlike the current resin and urethane materials that most 3D tiles are made from which is heavy and brittle. I would love to be able to take my tiles, throw them in a bag, and take them to an event instead of having to currently wrap each one up to prevent paint scratching and possible breakage. Maybe for starters your standard 2x2 floor tiles, 2x6 corridors, curved sections, doorways/entrances, and a couple of rooms of various size. We already know that the Bones material can make awesome dungeon decor so lets use it to make the actual dungeon!
  14. I might start with this figure: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/female%20dwarf/sku-down/03363 She already has an open stance that with a little tweaking could get her into a riding pose. Then use this boar figure from Reaper http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/boar/sku-down/03435 It has a nice open back just waiting for someone to sit on it.
  15. I'd like to see Mongol and Chinese warriors. They don't necessarily have to be historic just inspired.
  16. These are not so much house rules but for some added fun we incorporate some of the first edition rules for Warlord into our games depending upon the scenerio. In 1st edition there was a section of rules called stunts which are prefect little additions if you want to have a battle in a city. There are rules for climbing buildings, fighting through windows and doorways, picking up and throwing your enemies, pushing your enemies off buildings, destroying terrain, etc. Nothing funnier then when some heavy armored knight tries to go after one your archers and the archer pushes him off the battlement.
  17. I've tried the Army Painter Quick Shade Strong tone with mixed results. Besides the strong fumes, the dipping process was pretty easy, messy, but easy. I would suggest having a couple of old or disposable brushes lying around because no matter how hard you flick the miniatures after you dip, you'll always have some pooling in an area you don't want. The problem I ran into was not waiting for the Quick Shade to cure fully. I tried matte coating them too soon with Krylon Matte spray and the Quick Shade just bubbled and wrinkled up and ruined the miniatures. I had waited 3 days before matte coating them but apparently that wasn't long enough. I tried it again and gave the Quick Shade a good week and a half to cure and gave it a coat of matte spray and had no problems. Now, maybe weather and humidity was a factor in the curing time, I don't know.
  18. YAY! I had to kick it old school this weekend and make my army list with the old pencil and lined paper.
  19. Question: I want to cast a spell on an ememy that is locked in close combat with a another one of my troops. Do my troops that are locked in close combat have to take a Discipline check like they would if I were shooting into close combat? We treated it as such but I saw nothing in the rulebook that said either way.
  20. The army creator on the reapergames.com seems to be down. Does anyone know anything about this? I keep getting this error message: Can't connect to local MySQL server through socket '/var/run/mysqld/mysqld.sock' (2)
  21. Don't forget there were a couple of novels written set in Taltos: Warlord Rising and Warlord Revenge. They were fun reads.
  22. Could we have a anthropomorphic raccoon with a large sci-fi gun strapped to his back carrying a flower pot with a plant baby in it?
  23. TGP summoned up Warlord nicely. A few things I would add would first be Damage Tracks. Warlord uses data cards that can be printed off of reapergames.com. On the card there is a grid with all your models stats. As your model takes wounds the stats change to reflect their weakened state. For example if my model takes one wound, I would look down the Damage Track (DT) 1 column to see my models new stats. I guess a very loose comparison would be the damage grids that are used in Warmahordes for the jacks and beasts. I also would like to emphasize TGP point about army balance. This makes for incredibly engaging games. I've played other systems where you face that new or updated army and you get wiped out the within a couple turns, not so with Warlord. Since everything is so balanced winnnig really depends on you developing a strategy and not just using brute force or spamming a certain unit type. Last thing I would add would be Defensive Strikes. Each time you engage an enemy in a melee or ranged attack, they have to opportunity to attack back with their full number attacks unless a spell or special ability prevents that. This really makes you think before attacking knowing that you could take a good deal of damage back. If you go on reapergames.com they have a quick play guide which walks you through game play and also a series of learn to play videos I'll link it here so you can take a look: http://www.reapergames.com/warlord.php?display=Downloads
  24. I really like the look of these mechs. I do think the Reapers legs look a little small for its upper body. I think the Raijin's legs would look better scaled with the Reaper. I'll definitely be checking out this kickstarter when it opens.
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