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About snitchythedog

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    Mostly Harmless
  • Birthday August 13

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    United Kingdom

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  1. snitchythedog

    Goroloth (Aboleth)

    If you want a thin coat of slime Acrylic gloss medium painted on neat in lumps. If you want thicker stuff, two part epoxy resin will do the trick. All I got.
  2. snitchythedog

    Reaper Bones 4 Containers

    I can't take credit for the graffiti as they are decals from Green Stuff World. If you pick them up I have some suggestions that might be helpful. The decals are pretty good but with the multi color ones you need to be careful as they are a bit thicker than normal decals. They are also larger than normal decals so they can be a bit tricky and take some work. Prepare your surface well with Future floor polish/Pledge Multi Surface wax. Then when you apply the multi color decals use plenty of decal solvent and a stiff brush to push the decal into the details and to get any air bubbles out. I had a couple of bubbles that made it through the process and needed slicing and resetting after they were dry. They are very bright so will need to be sealed on with some more pledge prior to weathering. Thanks for the comps all.
  3. Just my containers from Reaper bones 4. Done quickly and detailed up with Green Stuff World decals. I have some touch ups yet as the oils and white spirits caused some chipping in my base coat but pretty much done. Hope you like
  4. snitchythedog

    Bone Wheel mostly complete 15 June

    Finished up with the oils. First application was the blues and reds. These were painted on in a blob in the center of the part to be tinted. Then a brush that is damp with white spirits was applied to blend the tint onto the surface. Next step was the greens and black. The green was used on the stone and the wood surfaces to imitate damp mossy areas. The black was used solely on the skeletons to simulate the discoloration of decay. The same process of using a brush damp with white spirits was used to blend the colors in place. Once all of the oils were dry, a wash of raw umber oil and white spirits was used. Some areas of the skeletons and skulls received more watered down oils at this time. Black felt was added with spray adhesive at the bottom of the plinth and the shrine. This helps protect the surfaces and will help blend the terrain onto whatever surface it is placed on. Here are the individual components. Base: The Shrine: The scaffolding: The wheels: Here is everything put together. Models are from Hasslefree and Studio Miniatures. Once the latest batch of oils finishes setting Pledge Multi-Surface Wax (in the US read Future floor polish) will be painted onto all the playing surfaces to help protect the paint. After that sets it will get a coat of rattle can spray gloss then two rattle can spray flat. Hope you like.
  5. Those are well cool.
  6. I have several of them that I picked up at different times and from experience he runs the sales on a regular basis. His other tools are worthwhile too.
  7. snitchythedog

    Bone Wheel mostly complete 15 June

    Construction and base coat are done. I decided to magnetize as I can use the base as a stand alone dais or with a different topper. Here are the individual painted components. Dais. This is the base for the scaffolding. I made a small rock shrine. The scaffolding. The wagon wheels. Here is the completed model dry fitted. I will be using oil paints to tone down some of the brightness, blend the paints, define detail, tint the stones and add some weathering. Hope you like.
  8. snitchythedog

    jewelers saw question?

    The big thing to remember, whatever the blade thickness, is that you need a good bench with a pad on it to brace your work on to keep it steady. Blades tend to break when the part shifts and twists the while cutting.
  9. snitchythedog

    Bone Wheel mostly complete 15 June

    Finished the scaffolding this morning. I will be detailing the base of the scaffolding a bit as it is looking a bit sparse.
  10. snitchythedog

    Bone Wheel mostly complete 15 June

    Completed construction on the base. I cheated a bit and used sand to blend the surfaces. I have not filled the compass hole in yet as I am trying to decide if I am going to magnetize or permanently affix the top.
  11. snitchythedog

    Bone Wheel mostly complete 15 June

    Started some of the rest of the structure. The base of the wheel will be on a plinth. To make this I will have a raised section with more skulls on top of a base. The resin sheet of skulls was cut to shape, heated with boiling water and set on a form to get rounded surfaces. Next I started on the individual skeletons that are suppose to be on each face of the bone wheel. I mounted plastic skellies on laser cut wagon wheels and then used wrapped wire to secure arms and legs to the wheels. They were then dressed up with toilet paper clothing soaked with watered down wood glue. The clothing was shaped and is now drying. Once set I will glaze superglue over the clothing/skeleton/wagon wheel to set everything in place and unify the whole surface. Letting everything set before I continue.
  12. I am currently working on a bone wheel for a scenario in Frostgrave. It was described as a circular structure with bones. I have seen several on different forums that in most cases I have been spectacular. My problem is either I could not find parts to make similar or they were not quite robust enough for me as I hate terrain that breaks. Here is what I came up with. So far made out of a Green Stuff World stacked skulls resin plate and a sheet of Foamex. Step by step is on my blog.
  13. snitchythedog

    Ladies of Death by Glitterwolf

    Unfortunately that happens a lot with his stuff. He does some real pretty minis and then it is gone.
  14. snitchythedog

    Ladies of Death by Glitterwolf

    I always liked the freebooter.
  15. snitchythedog

    Rigel attempts Wyrmgear!

    If you can mount them somewhere secure you could use solder instead of metal. It will bend to the s-bend shape and hold in place as long as it is not supporting weight.