snitchythedog

Glad you have found oils. They are great fun and very useful. Scale modeling oil tutorials are also very helpful for getting tinting just right.

Took a week off work since I have not had any real time off since December. Figured I would kick out a quick build for my fantasy setting. As I have tonnes of medieval weapons an armory fit the bill. In the real world this would be tucked in a castle or fortified building but as this is for fantasy I took some liberties. Still needs some weathering. Hope you like.

Thanks all. Had a nice day out with the fam.

Congrats to you and yours.

Two projects, one old and one new. As the club is getting into old west gaming I am working up some terrain starting with vegetation. These are a mix of Pegasus Hobbies prickly pears and organ pipe cactus, plastic plant blue agaves, and wire covered in sand ocotillos. The plastic adhering spray paint is chipping a bit on the plastic plants so I do not know how long they will last but overall I am happy with how these came out. I am waiting for some grass tufts to arrive so have not done lesser vegetation yet. Painted in thin washes of acrylics to build up the color. There are a total of fourteen stands so there are more photos on my blog if you are interested. I am particularly chuffed with the bases. Having grown up in Southern Arizona, I can say I did too many blue agaves and too few ocotillos but I am pleased with the results. Next is I finished the last two tiles in my modular cave system. Now I just have to play with some highlights and washes to even out the tones. Hope you like.

Don't forget dropped fronds. Real trees growing wild usually have at least some fronds dried up on the ground.

Now that is spectacular!

Finished up with the Forest of Sorrow. Darkened the rotting flesh and used lower foliage to accentuate the poles. Photographed on a neutral background so they show up better. Groups Some of the individual stands More photos on my blog if you are inclined.

Always nice to see hirst arts in use. Yours are particularly nice especially the outdoor shots.

I have not heard or thought about the Rocketts in forever. As always, I am impressed with the quality, quantity and consistency of your sculpts/painting. You keep doing outstanding and thoughtful work.

I have been working on some 3d printed impaled victims. They still need ground work and a bit more paint but I am happy so far with how they are turning out. I had the fifteen victims printed twice and spread them among ten bases with skewers to flesh out the posts. I had them printed through Protius 3D Modeling. If you are in the UK and have the need I would highly recommend them. Photos of the bases. My test base is mixed in these to show what the finished product would look like. A group show with them bunched up. Lastly with some terrain. I don't think they will every be more than background scatter to set the scene but I am happy so far.

Thanks for the kind words all. Over on the LAF I was asked about how well the Heroforge scale compares to other manufactures. When designing her I set her height at 5 feet so she would be relatively short. I am guessing that the standard size of their models would be heroic but you can scale however you want on the printer. Here is the size comparison shot. Hasslefree, Midlam, HeroForge, Otherworld, Bears Head, Reaper

Because it is a squirrel. I have wanted to do a shaman reading bones for quite some time, not because I needed one but because it is a neat idea. The problem was that none of the companies that I looked at had anything close so I decided to try out Heroforge. It worked a treat. Designed the model using their website and had it printed by a nice company called Geekvillan. The base is decorated with a green stuff animal skin and some bits including the squirrel. Pretty chuffed with the results as me and paint usually equals craptastic. Looking at the zoomed in images it is nice to know that my eyesight will no longer allow me to see the blemishes.

Very nice headstone.

Fencing, a little late here but a few points for clear two part epoxy resin that might help. Some you may have come across some you may not have. First, a longer curing time is better. It allows the resin to be thoroughly mixed and gives it time to flow over and into the details. Second is when mixing. Mix until you think it is fully mixed and then mix that long again. With clear resin it can be difficult to tell if it is fully mixed and if it is not you can end up with random patches that do not cure. Third heat can be a friend and an enemy. Resin usually generates heat when curing so it can damage foam or warp plastic if you do a deep pour. Heat will also help you in a couple of ways. A hair dryer can be used to encourage bubbles to the surface by heating the uncured resin to lower the viscosity to a point where the bubble will float up on its own. It will also help resin cure a bit faster. If you have a dust free room with a hot water tank or heater in it you can let the resin set up in there. Fourth when you let it set, let it set for double the time it says on the box. If it says 24 hour cure give it 48. Resin has a shelf-life and in my experience, the older it gets the longer it takes to cure. In most cases you don't know when it was produced or put in the container. Resist the temptation to "test" it. Hope that helps.