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1728 Adventurer

About snitchythedog

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  • Birthday August 13

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    United Kingdom

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  1. So......Is this on the shelf of shame or have you been on vacation?? Interested to see it complete.
  2. I saw the kickstarter for those and yours came out quite nice. Do you have any scale shots?
  3. That makes it pop. Red and white was nice, red white and blue makes it much more snazzy. You were asking about leaving the clips or gluing it. My question to you would be what are you going to use it for and does it need to be modular? I glued mine but that is becasue I abhor modular pieces in terrain and that is a personal choice. If you are playing mostly RPG or a narrative based miniature games then my suggestion would be to use the clips as you can change the layout later. If it is a static piece of scenery or will only be used for wargames objectives then glue it. They do take up some space don't they! Edit: You could also go half way. Use superglue gel to tack it in place in memorable spots then you have the option to separate it later. Just use a blob somewhere near the surface on an interior seam and then place it upright while setting. The blob will stay in place and can be cut then chipped out later if need be. Still use the clips as I do not think it will hold up to normal use with just the glue. I also need to know. Does the STL come with a file for windows? As this is still on my megawinthelotteryretirementwishlist.
  4. Very nice. Clean lines. Adding black or another colour panel would liven it up further.
  5. I had a company print it over here. They have a liquid resin printer that they do the clear canopies with. Mine had some small flaws that quite frankley add to the model as they look like damage. The sanding was a bugger though. To get it clear and smooth I had to wet sand it with paper from 100grit to 2500 grit and the paint with Pledge multi surface wax. If you want to print the canopy with your printer you can always make a silicone mould and cast it in clear resin. Would be cheaper than a liquid resin printer. Hirst arts has some good tutorials on how to make a silicone mould. There is not much of a learning curve.
  6. Build log on my reaper forum terrain blog. I looked long and hard at the Beta but I don't have a 3d printer and would have trouble justifying it to my wife. Because it's cool does not work any more. I also forgot to ask. Do the STL files contain windows?
  7. Just a broken down cart for the Loot the cart scenario in Thaw of the Litch Lord. Scratchbuilt from card, matchsticks and laser cut wheels. BIts from Tabletop Arts. Only needs static grass.
  8. Well cool and it looks like you are going for a similar paint scheme to my shuttle alpha. The 70s style bright colours are much more interesting than drab greys and greens on most spaceship models.
  9. That is something that I never thought I would miss when I immigrated. Nothing like it over here.
  10. I am hosting a Frostgrave game on Tuesday so I figured that I would host one of the new scenarios. I chose "The Orb" but needed a suitable orb. This one started life as a super bouncy ball. Almost all of the resin is uv setting and the base is foamex. The splash was made by setting uv resin over a plastic sandwich bag that was taped on top of a small container. You can find tutorials on you tube just look for resin splashes. Hope you like.
  11. Well done so far and you did not overdo the roof, it is spot on. What are you going to do for the mess on the porch? Some suggestions depending on your budget. TT combat terrain has a camping accessories pack with a BBQ Grill and an ice chest. Black cat bases has a street litter pack with takeaway boxes and cups. There are also several manufactures that do various bottles in clear resin. Green stuff world also has a mould for cinderblocks.
  12. They still had not finished that display before I immigrated sit is nice to hear that it is now there for the public to see.
  13. That one was found not far from where I grew up. It will be very cool to see where you go from here.
  14. Finished up another building. Foamex construction. Finished with craft paints, loads of washes, some GW technicals and GW paints. Hope you like.
  15. Just a quick tutorial as I needed some for a build. How to make broken clay pots. Take a resin or plastic pot, or a bead that you are using to simulate a pot and use insta-mold/blue stuff/omyaru to make a one sided mould of the top, bottom and a side. Use milliput/aves epoxy sculpt/magic sculpt to fill the mould and take a brush handle to push it to the sides and top of the mould. You want it thin on the sides but not too thin. If the putty is slightly translucent when holding it up to a light it is too thin. Wait for the putty to set for 24 hours so it is completely cured. De-mould and start clipping and cutting each piece. Try to make it look like natural breaks and glue in place. will probably superglue some broken egg shells on this pile too just to bulk out the broken pots. Edit: I forgot to mention. The pots that I used were the most excellent details from Crooked Dice.
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