Jump to content


Bones Supporter
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by snitchythedog

  1. Another option is HERE. He has several toots that may help.
  2. Pretty much done. Off to the photos. I will add some better scale pictures next time it is on the game table. More photos on my blog. Did not want to blow up the Reaper server.
  3. Sakura said "Moist" That is my wife's second most hated word!!
  4. Finished the interior and exterior paint and decals. Next step is chipping the paint, oils and powders. I also have to sand the canopy again with the 2500 grit and paint with Pledge Multi Surface Polish. For the folks in the States think the old scale modellers trick using Future Floor Polish to make plastics and resin clear again after sanding.
  5. I have been working on the interior. Decided to go outside of my normal colour pallet. These are not finished pieces so touch ups and other weathering is on the way. I also took a photo of the design on one of the tails.
  6. This was going to be posted tomorrow but I managed the time to spray and paint today. Top base coat and masking done. That is a car hair.
  7. It is an interesting design and I have been looking at the Beta design. My only complaint about most of his stuff is that everything is a dead end. Most ship designs have only one entrance or exit. Limits play. There are some options to add other doors/hatches but not that many. Quick update. The bottom half is pretty much done. Still some small touch ups but pretty much done on the basic paint.
  8. It is a clip system since the interior and exterior has many options that can be used. In this case I will be using the clips and gluing them in place. The modular aspect is nice but I am not sure how the paint job will survive. Of you google 2nd dynasty starship 3 Kickstarter all of the options are shown.
  9. I am always impressed with your use of bright vibrant colours. Whenever I try to use them on a miniature it always comes off tacky. Your efforts always seem to flow.
  10. Base coat and masking done. It will need touch ups and some bits painting.
  11. Sorry folks. Spent yesterday working. We have some travellers that are encamped just outside of where my daughter has her horse and we had to get ready for this storm. Had to move anything not nailed down from the horse and lock down all of the stuff in the garden. The base is the new primus 32mm size. I picked the figure since the scale is relatively common even for folks who do not play. I am sure one would work. Problem is availability. Once out of the US your shopping options for reaper minis drops to almost nil. I did not include these in the first post. Hope that helps.
  12. Test painted the nacelles and engine bells. White auto primer over grey auto primer. Masked then acrylic red painted on top. I was testing the model masking tape as much as I was testing the paint pallet and I am pretty happy with the results. I will have to pick up a pot of white that more closely matches the primer base as my touch up colours are off. Once the whole exterior is completed it will received a treatment for chipped paint followed by several treatments of oils and powders. Capitan Obvious for scale.
  13. No not at all. But Capitan Obvious is alive and well. He says Haha My finger Points!!!!
  14. More examples. Some for scale. Some of the faceting that I will need to sand out.
  15. I picked up a Shuttle Alpha from Proteus 3D Modelling. I never bit the bullet when the kickstarter ran becasue I was not looking at purchasing a 3d printer. I am very happy with the quality of the print, the design of the ship and the pricepoint. Like all 3D prints I will have to do some sanding/smoothing to remove layers. At this point I am planning on painting the ship like one of Peter Ellison's spaceship paintings from the 70's. I will post better photos while I am working on it. Hope you like.
  16. This is correct early Cretaceous. This has been a great build.
  17. I figure that it will be easier from now on to post all of my terrain projects in one place so here it is. The first post is just the complete modular system again with a game of 7tv. Hope you like
  18. The giant redwood, the larch, the fir, the mighty scots pine.... The smell of fresh-cut timber! The crash of mighty trees! With my best girlie by my side... We'd sing ... sing ... sing.
  19. Google my moniker and look at the second entry in the scratch building section. I run down many of the commercial products that will help you do rivets. They will come up smaller that the nail art beads and will give you better results.
  20. Made some trap counters. Photos taken with my craptastic cell phone again. Box trap Cake Trap Pizza Trap For ages I have tried to figure out how I wanted to do trap counters. Pit, spike and spear traps just do not do it for me. So after some inspiration I came up with these. Hope you like.
  21. I cannot take credit for the design of this complex. We had a prolific model builder at my former Local Game Store back home who had enough of this modular terrain to cover two Ping-Pong tables. He built the whole complex in anticipation for the release of Rogue Trader back in 1986. I only saw the terrain used once but it was magnificent. Bruce, If you see this thank you for the design and thank you for encouraging me to build terrain way back then. Since then I kept the design in mind and waited until I had the time and materials to complete it. Last month I had a bit of a windfall. Our office uses 3mm thick foamex signs and we ended up with a stack of them that were no longer usable as the graphics were out of date. The first thing that I did was work out the basic design. To make it easy everything was in increments of three and six inches. Rooms are 6x6 corridors are 3x6 corners and intersections are 3x3. All walls are two inches tall and glued directly to the floor. To speed up the process I made a simple jig out of foamex that would allow me to cut two and three inch strips out of the sign stock. All the details on the walls of the corridors were done with resin bits from various manufactures and bits cast from my new Green Stuff World monitors and vents molds. I kept rooms basic since I have my sci-fy terrain drop ins. All base painting was done with rattlecans. Primer grey floors, Rustolium Limestone for the walls and all bits on the walls painted black. Everything was highlighted and washed with inks. Quick, cheap and cheerfull. After a week I now have enough to build a complex with four rooms. I am planning on being able to table a complex with at least nine rooms. The next step with these is to use black guesso on the outside and edges to cover the logos and unify the surfaces. At some point I will also have to work out an exterior skin too but I can play a game of 7tv in there as it is. Hope you like
  22. Interestingly enough that is what I used for my first try. Since I have seen no real difference between the GSW resin powder and regular fine grade gypsum dental plaster so I just called it the same thing. Structurally it still did not do the job. My personal recommendation would be Milliput but others may have better luck with the GSW resin. The one difference that I have seen with the GSW resin powder is that it creates a porcelain like finish. For most of my applications it is not porous enough. Superglue and two Part epoxy resin does not like to stick to it unless you score or rough sand the surface. Thanks all for the comps and feedback.
  23. I am posting this here as terrain but it may not be the best fit so mods please move if appropriate. Just a quick review. Green Stuff World has brought out three new mould for details and having picked up two I figured I would share my experiences. I purchased the control panels and the grids and fans. Initially I tried casting in both dental plaster. The plaster ran into the same problem that it always does with thin parts in small moulds. The finished pieces are too thin and cannot support themselves so they break easily. Secondly you usually have air bubbles form and it is much more noticeable with theses moulds as they are particularly small detailed parts. I then used Milliput and it worked a treat. Easiest way to do it is to press the Milliput into the details allowing it to lump over the top of the mould. Then scrape the top off with a metal scraper then smooth the bottom out. I did not use green stuff as it is too elastic and cannot be scraped flat. The parts are reasonably detailed when comparing the Green Stuff cast monitors with Antiocities Workshop resin monitors. They are smaller but overall they are a match. Here are some shots on a finished piece. All in all they are well worth the twelve and a half Euro price tag as you can make as many parts as you need at any time, they come with a keyboard and they are easy to work with. If you are building lots of sci-fy terrain they are a must. Hope you like.
  24. Oh Griselda..... Its lovely. You are only missing the potato. It would feed us for a week.
  • Create New...