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Everything posted by snitchythedog

  1. No not at all. But Capitan Obvious is alive and well. He says Haha My finger Points!!!!
  2. More examples. Some for scale. Some of the faceting that I will need to sand out.
  3. I picked up a Shuttle Alpha from Proteus 3D Modelling. I never bit the bullet when the kickstarter ran becasue I was not looking at purchasing a 3d printer. I am very happy with the quality of the print, the design of the ship and the pricepoint. Like all 3D prints I will have to do some sanding/smoothing to remove layers. At this point I am planning on painting the ship like one of Peter Ellison's spaceship paintings from the 70's. I will post better photos while I am working on it. Hope you like.
  4. This is correct early Cretaceous. This has been a great build.
  5. I figure that it will be easier from now on to post all of my terrain projects in one place so here it is. The first post is just the complete modular system again with a game of 7tv. Hope you like
  6. The giant redwood, the larch, the fir, the mighty scots pine.... The smell of fresh-cut timber! The crash of mighty trees! With my best girlie by my side... We'd sing ... sing ... sing.
  7. Google my moniker and look at the second entry in the scratch building section. I run down many of the commercial products that will help you do rivets. They will come up smaller that the nail art beads and will give you better results.
  8. Made some trap counters. Photos taken with my craptastic cell phone again. Box trap Cake Trap Pizza Trap For ages I have tried to figure out how I wanted to do trap counters. Pit, spike and spear traps just do not do it for me. So after some inspiration I came up with these. Hope you like.
  9. I cannot take credit for the design of this complex. We had a prolific model builder at my former Local Game Store back home who had enough of this modular terrain to cover two Ping-Pong tables. He built the whole complex in anticipation for the release of Rogue Trader back in 1986. I only saw the terrain used once but it was magnificent. Bruce, If you see this thank you for the design and thank you for encouraging me to build terrain way back then. Since then I kept the design in mind and waited until I had the time and materials to complete it. Last month I had a bit of a windfall. Our office uses 3mm thick foamex signs and we ended up with a stack of them that were no longer usable as the graphics were out of date. The first thing that I did was work out the basic design. To make it easy everything was in increments of three and six inches. Rooms are 6x6 corridors are 3x6 corners and intersections are 3x3. All walls are two inches tall and glued directly to the floor. To speed up the process I made a simple jig out of foamex that would allow me to cut two and three inch strips out of the sign stock. All the details on the walls of the corridors were done with resin bits from various manufactures and bits cast from my new Green Stuff World monitors and vents molds. I kept rooms basic since I have my sci-fy terrain drop ins. All base painting was done with rattlecans. Primer grey floors, Rustolium Limestone for the walls and all bits on the walls painted black. Everything was highlighted and washed with inks. Quick, cheap and cheerfull. After a week I now have enough to build a complex with four rooms. I am planning on being able to table a complex with at least nine rooms. The next step with these is to use black guesso on the outside and edges to cover the logos and unify the surfaces. At some point I will also have to work out an exterior skin too but I can play a game of 7tv in there as it is. Hope you like
  10. Interestingly enough that is what I used for my first try. Since I have seen no real difference between the GSW resin powder and regular fine grade gypsum dental plaster so I just called it the same thing. Structurally it still did not do the job. My personal recommendation would be Milliput but others may have better luck with the GSW resin. The one difference that I have seen with the GSW resin powder is that it creates a porcelain like finish. For most of my applications it is not porous enough. Superglue and two Part epoxy resin does not like to stick to it unless you score or rough sand the surface. Thanks all for the comps and feedback.
  11. I am posting this here as terrain but it may not be the best fit so mods please move if appropriate. Just a quick review. Green Stuff World has brought out three new mould for details and having picked up two I figured I would share my experiences. I purchased the control panels and the grids and fans. Initially I tried casting in both dental plaster. The plaster ran into the same problem that it always does with thin parts in small moulds. The finished pieces are too thin and cannot support themselves so they break easily. Secondly you usually have air bubbles form and it is much more noticeable with theses moulds as they are particularly small detailed parts. I then used Milliput and it worked a treat. Easiest way to do it is to press the Milliput into the details allowing it to lump over the top of the mould. Then scrape the top off with a metal scraper then smooth the bottom out. I did not use green stuff as it is too elastic and cannot be scraped flat. The parts are reasonably detailed when comparing the Green Stuff cast monitors with Antiocities Workshop resin monitors. They are smaller but overall they are a match. Here are some shots on a finished piece. All in all they are well worth the twelve and a half Euro price tag as you can make as many parts as you need at any time, they come with a keyboard and they are easy to work with. If you are building lots of sci-fy terrain they are a must. Hope you like.
  12. Oh Griselda..... Its lovely. You are only missing the potato. It would feed us for a week.
  13. Wow, high praise indeed. The majority of the mushrooms are just sewing pins primed and painted. Nothing like yours. I am hoping to use it in a variety of scenarios.
  14. Had a bit of time over the holiday and managed a small project. Hope you like.
  15. Just finished this batch. Very nice company that I will definitely do business with in the future. First two boars. Next two Armoured Skeletons. Close up Lastly the Mother of Spiders. She will make a very nice villain for my ROSD campaign. Hope you like.
  16. Remember my experience is not the same as everyone else so at the end of the day you will have to figure out and do what works for you. Here are my two cents. I used dremels for many years and have now gone back almost exclusively to hand tools. I found that I have more control when doing cuts and I am able to cut and file closer to details than I would ever attempt with my dremel. I still use it intermittently but only if I have heavy cuts to do on thick metal materials. A jewellers saw covers my thin cuts and I have several cutters for both wood and plastic. For vices there is not much else to say but pad the face of the vice. For both metal and plastic minis I tend to use small soft pine wood shims sometimes with a strip of leather to support any odd shapes as the leather and wood hold fast and give enough not to damage surfaces. Hope that helps.
  17. None. Everything was primed and painted normally. Everything but the whales I left them the way the came from the store. Toys are not detailed but they really do not need to be as they are background for the action on the table and will blend into all the other details.
  18. Gift shop. They are the Viking pack that are in all the national trust shops. They were not that complicated. Build a box mine were out of mat board. Fill it with a display. Paint the interior parts then basecoat the exterior. Cut plastic glass to size. Cut coffee stirrers to size and paint. Glue stirrers to glass with wood glue. Glue glass pane to the display with wood glue. Finish framing the box. Touch up and use a drop of superglue on the corners of the stirrers holding the glass in place. Simples. Edit: Forgot to add. I only used three colours per item in the display case then a wash. I figured that they would be partially obscured anyway so no need for great detail. All of the cases were variations on this theme. No set time period. Initially the display cases were for one scenario in Frostgrave but I figured that I can now use them for pulp games. I am not cracking them open to add them. Everyone thanks for the comps. Have a good night.
  19. Funny enough, that was the one I enjoyed painting the most. Been grinding through when it comes to painting models for a while.
  20. Just painted to tabletop standards using a mix of acrylics and oil paints. Rangers from Northstar A wizard from Northstars recent Nickstarter. A shadow Knight again from northstar The Medium fire elemental from Reaper. I will use it as a fire Daemon. Again nothing special. Just painting to get them on the table quick while still looking alright from three foot.
  21. I am updating my museum terrain with some statues and centre pieces. Mostly made from children's toys and museum gift ship purchases mounted on foamex. First is whales and sharks. Next is a dinosaur The Egyptian wing Chinese Statues Other statues. A stuffed anteater. Hope you like.
  22. You could go old school and use artists Gesso. If you have not tried. It is a thicker acrylic paint normally used on canvas as a primer. Some benefits in this situation are that it sticks to itself, is fairly tough and will shrink onto a surface holding tight. Might fit the bill for what you are looking for.
  23. One to one mixes in both resins and silicone are always a selling point to me. Less faffing about and far more forgiving. How fast did the casting craft take to setup? A quick setup may have something to do with the flocking not sinking in. Even if I hate waiting a slow setup for the resin both levels out clean and the air bubbles from mixing tend to float and pop on their own. One more suggestion that is not dependent on who makes the resin. Pour your resin first then when set do your ground covers like flock or static grass. If you pour the resin in with those materials in place the resin will creep up the flock onto dry land. Same goes for reeds. Pour the resin then drill into the surface and plant the reeds with two part epoxy resin.
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