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snitchythedog

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by snitchythedog

  1. I did it perpendicular and hacked the meniscus off. The two part epoxy covered it up. I like the idea but my cutting at right angle skills are minimal. Over 36 separate cuts on the 18 parts I would screw it up.
  2. Been working on a project for a while so I figured I would show the step by step progress so far. First I ordered a custom cut from Warbases here in the UK. Due to a mistake on my part I ended up ordering twelve feet of river. My fault and I am not complaining as I can use all of it. Each section of river is made up of a base and two banks. Each section is six inches wide and the bends turn about 45 degrees. Filler was added on the edges and in the bed. These were sanded down. Basing material was added. A basic paintjob was slapped on. Then the edges were dammed off and resin was poured to get the depth for the water. Two part epoxy resin was added to the surface. This was tapped with a popsicle stick while it was setting to develop the waves. I only have sixteen more sections to do the water on. Next steps are touching up paint, adding vegetation and felt on the bottom of each section. Hope you like.
  3. When I saw the first angle I was thinking, "What does a squirrel riding a manta ray have to do with Polynesia?" Glad you included rest to properly see it. Very nice build and great effects.
  4. First of all very nice job on this. Drilling with a pinvise is not that difficult. Use a hobby knife or scribe to mark the point where you want to drill first to give the bit somewhere to go. Let the drill bit do the cutting with light pressure. If you see the bit flexing then you are pushing too hard and it can slip damaging the paint. If you want a large hole to mount it you are better off drilling with a small bit to the depth you want then moving to the next size bit.
  5. We played the Bone Wheel scenario tonight. Very bloody game with only six members of either warband surviving. At the end there were twelve different monsters on the board including the Ghoul King and his retinue. It was mayhem and we had a hoot. Here are the photos. Hope you like.
  6. Their not Doug McClure is OK but I picked the one from Crooked Dice as it is much better. I did order the Antideluvian not Peter Cushing, not Raquel Welch and one of their Labyrinthodonts for my 7TV caveman crew. Good solid miniatures. I keep promising myself that I will pick up the Crystal Palace dinosaurs. Have not yet but I will at some point. I figured that it would be a good site for Glitterwolf's project.
  7. You might be thinking about enamels such as the old Testors model paints in the tiny glass jars. Oils are what many portrait painters use and usually come in a squeeze tube. You will not be able to get away from the fumes as you need White Spirits to thin them and use them effectively. They behave very differently from both enamels and acrylics. If you watch some of the youtubes about using them you will see what I am talking about. They can be used both as a wash and a filter. Painted on neat works too. Nice thing is they take time to dry so you can work on things until you are happy and they dry completely flat. I do not use an airbrush either. However they do need their own brushes as the oils and white spirits will not mix well with acrylics. I use Windsor and Newton exclusively. I do not use any of the super special artists white spirits just what I can pick up at the DIY store.
  8. I was browsing for miniatures for a completely different project and spotted some Conquistador miniatures. Immediately thought of this thread. Antedeluvian Miniatures has a very nice small range in their Conquistadores of Mictlan range. They have some older representations of dinos in their Lost world range.
  9. Great paint job. You are getting much better results than I ever could with acrylics. Have you ever tried oils on your busts? With the better than competent brushwork that you have shown here and the size of the bust I think that they would really make this one pop. If you have not tried there are plenty of toots online in both video and text versions. They are not everyone's cup of tea but i think they would take you to the next level in realism. My two cents.
  10. It was not in the original plan. The magnet idea came about when I initially built the scaffolding. The problem I saw immediately was once the whole structure was attached to the dais would be too brittle for my liking in transport. By magnetizing the base I now only have to protect the smaller part and I can attach a small metal ruler in the box to stick the toppers to when in storage. Glad I went with it as it is much more versatile. Thanks for the comps all.
  11. Just a postscript. Two other toppers that can be used in the campaign. First the Dark Cauldron. I did not want to do a typical cauldron so I made one to look like stone filled with some sort of unhealthy liquid. Here it is on the dais. Next is the throne for the Ghoul King. I wanted it to look like scavenged items were used to decorate it. Again on the dais. I will get some in game shots at some point with these once we play the scenarios.
  12. If you want a thin coat of slime Acrylic gloss medium painted on neat in lumps. If you want thicker stuff, two part epoxy resin will do the trick. All I got.
  13. I can't take credit for the graffiti as they are decals from Green Stuff World. If you pick them up I have some suggestions that might be helpful. The decals are pretty good but with the multi color ones you need to be careful as they are a bit thicker than normal decals. They are also larger than normal decals so they can be a bit tricky and take some work. Prepare your surface well with Future floor polish/Pledge Multi Surface wax. Then when you apply the multi color decals use plenty of decal solvent and a stiff brush to push the decal into the details and to get any air bubbles out. I had a couple of bubbles that made it through the process and needed slicing and resetting after they were dry. They are very bright so will need to be sealed on with some more pledge prior to weathering. Thanks for the comps all.
  14. Just my containers from Reaper bones 4. Done quickly and detailed up with Green Stuff World decals. I have some touch ups yet as the oils and white spirits caused some chipping in my base coat but pretty much done. Hope you like
  15. Finished up with the oils. First application was the blues and reds. These were painted on in a blob in the center of the part to be tinted. Then a brush that is damp with white spirits was applied to blend the tint onto the surface. Next step was the greens and black. The green was used on the stone and the wood surfaces to imitate damp mossy areas. The black was used solely on the skeletons to simulate the discoloration of decay. The same process of using a brush damp with white spirits was used to blend the colors in place. Once all of the oils were dry, a wash of raw umber oil and white spirits was used. Some areas of the skeletons and skulls received more watered down oils at this time. Black felt was added with spray adhesive at the bottom of the plinth and the shrine. This helps protect the surfaces and will help blend the terrain onto whatever surface it is placed on. Here are the individual components. Base: The Shrine: The scaffolding: The wheels: Here is everything put together. Models are from Hasslefree and Studio Miniatures. Once the latest batch of oils finishes setting Pledge Multi-Surface Wax (in the US read Future floor polish) will be painted onto all the playing surfaces to help protect the paint. After that sets it will get a coat of rattle can spray gloss then two rattle can spray flat. Hope you like.
  16. I have several of them that I picked up at different times and from experience he runs the sales on a regular basis. His other tools are worthwhile too.
  17. Construction and base coat are done. I decided to magnetize as I can use the base as a stand alone dais or with a different topper. Here are the individual painted components. Dais. This is the base for the scaffolding. I made a small rock shrine. The scaffolding. The wagon wheels. Here is the completed model dry fitted. I will be using oil paints to tone down some of the brightness, blend the paints, define detail, tint the stones and add some weathering. Hope you like.
  18. The big thing to remember, whatever the blade thickness, is that you need a good bench with a pad on it to brace your work on to keep it steady. Blades tend to break when the part shifts and twists the while cutting.
  19. Finished the scaffolding this morning. I will be detailing the base of the scaffolding a bit as it is looking a bit sparse.
  20. Completed construction on the base. I cheated a bit and used sand to blend the surfaces. I have not filled the compass hole in yet as I am trying to decide if I am going to magnetize or permanently affix the top.
  21. Started some of the rest of the structure. The base of the wheel will be on a plinth. To make this I will have a raised section with more skulls on top of a base. The resin sheet of skulls was cut to shape, heated with boiling water and set on a form to get rounded surfaces. Next I started on the individual skeletons that are suppose to be on each face of the bone wheel. I mounted plastic skellies on laser cut wagon wheels and then used wrapped wire to secure arms and legs to the wheels. They were then dressed up with toilet paper clothing soaked with watered down wood glue. The clothing was shaped and is now drying. Once set I will glaze superglue over the clothing/skeleton/wagon wheel to set everything in place and unify the whole surface. Letting everything set before I continue.
  22. I am currently working on a bone wheel for a scenario in Frostgrave. It was described as a circular structure with bones. I have seen several on different forums that in most cases I have been spectacular. My problem is either I could not find parts to make similar or they were not quite robust enough for me as I hate terrain that breaks. Here is what I came up with. So far made out of a Green Stuff World stacked skulls resin plate and a sheet of Foamex. Step by step is on my blog.
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